That's about it...won't go. Permanently in neutral. Got to the main Street, stopped, waited...went to go and heard/felt a pop/clunk...then some whining like gears grinding... No motion. Nothing. Car can be pushed around in park ,as if it's in neutral.
FML.
Can't imagine the CVT is shot....I think. 132,000 on it, drain and fill at.40k,80k and 3x at 120k....
If I put it in drive, I hear a light rotating/grinding sound but no motion....and if I go to park it makes a more pronounced grinding sound. I can shift to neutral and let it settle and the go to park with no noise.
It depends on where you go and what parts you buy. But. Im gonna say ~$300. (Im not sure though as I do all repairs myself).
A CV axle is around $100 and labor depends on the shop. Any shop can do it. I absolutely DO NOT reccomend the dealer. Find a good independent mechanic nearby.
And to answer your question, no you cannot drive with only one. The nature of the differential will not allow the car to drive.
If you're in the city, i would recommend bringing it to HAAS on Montose, otherwise you might be under the mercy of your local Honda dealership, them are pretty easy to R&R.
good thing it wasn't the trans. Honda CVT Belts are supposedly steel
If you buy the part and have a shop replace it, it's usually cheaper. If you don't want to deal with buying the parts and would rather a shop do all the work, research well. Go to a local shop and avoid the dealer if you don't want to be ripped off.
The fact that the axle snapped is concerning. Usually the joint goes bad. AFAIK it’s pretty uncommon for an axle to snap unless you’re launching the car or damaged it some other way.
BUT , I was coming off a street that kind went down to the main street....I paused at the bottom and I think I was in a dip where the two meet, with the wheel turned left for a quick merge....when the window opened I went for it...maybe the combination was just odd...
I think I paid about $120 for the last pair of aftermarket CV half shafts I installed in a CRV late last year. Only took 2 or 3 hours and I'm slow, not doing it on a regular basis. I suspect a shop with a lift and a skilled tech could do both sides inside of an hour.
Is odd that the shaft itself failed. I guess those 4cyl Honda's must make some major torque (or maybe rust and the damper had something to do with it).
Snapped axle, by the rubber damper is common in the salt belt. This has been documented on several 7th gen. The moisture and salt get trapped in between the rubber damper and the shaft and start rusting out the shaft.
I would have come out with my tools last week, but I was working on my 300k mile 7th gen V6 so I couldn't :lmao: Axle changes aren't very hard.
Happens in the regions where lots of salt is used on the roads, rusts underneath the rubber dampner as it traps the moisture and eventually the shaft is not thick enough to support the tourqe. Snaps in half and leaves you stranded. if I lived in those parts of the world, I think I would check that area carefully and possibly just remove the rubber dampner ring and treat the axle for rust. Once enough material is gone, you have to replace the axle. I would either use an OEM parts or axles from www.raxles.com. The axles you get from most big box parts stores are junk.
Not sure if my pic is clear enough.... But looking at it on my phone there does seem to be rusted areas inside the shaft.... The freshly broken area is clean metal.and at the top there seems to be rusted in that zone...indicating that it was failing over very time
You need to purchase parts from Honda of Lisle online then pick up in person, it has the biggest discounts that way. If you buy them in person, then there is a mark-up. I've gone there 4 times in the last 2 weeks. I see $155 if you just go pick it up. http://www.hondapartsnetwork.com
Technically speaking, Honda of Lisle and Honda Parts Network are two different things, as t-rd is pointing out. Yes, you pick up your HondaPartsNetwork purchase at Honda of Lisle, but if you order from Honda of Lisle you pay more.
I think that would be a good idea, if the "elements" haven't already intruded. Then the silicone might trap them under the damper.
Which makes me wonder if the damper could be moved, the area cleaned, then slid back into place and sealed. That might be the only way to make sure you're not trapping moisture and road salt under the damper.
The passenger side axle does not come out easily with just a pry bar. You need a slide hammer with the cv axle fork to pull on it evenly to get it out, otherwise, it remains stuck in the female receiving cup of the intermediate shaft. But it might be easy for your 2014 because it's barely 5 years old. $250 in labor is about 2 hours of labor and it sounds right.
Some pics.. I am unsure what he meant by he couldn't get the whole assembly out....looks like the whole thing.
$312....
Think the driver's side is next, just to be safe. said it was a Honda part
Some pics.. I am unsure what he meant by he couldn't get the whole assembly out....looks like the whole thing.
$312....
Think the driver's side is next, just to be safe. said it was a Honda part
Appears to be whole to me. I could be wrong though. I've only ever changed the axles on my 7th gen. Is that the price with labor? If so, seems pretty fair.
I'm happy for you that you identified the problem and it is not the transmission. I'm also happy for you that you are keeping up on your fluid replacement
added pics to the folder.... There is clearly some sort of corrosion penetrating deep into the axle, inside the 'damper' area of the axle...and some serious OD corrosion as well....
Must have just made it very weak in that area....
Now I worry about the driver's side....
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