[koolfrog]

My Wife's 2002 Accord EX I4 with At with 220k. All mantience has been done at the dealer. Today during hard acceleration the car started sputtering between 3500- 4000 rpm. The tach was bouncing back and forth between those numbers and the car kinda jerking along. Let off the acclerator it goes way and runs fine. Get back on it and it does it again, when it reaches 4000 rpm. It is due for a service next week. Any ideas?

 

[pbm517]

My 2001, with half those miles, started doing the same thing intermittantly (along with a CEL). I changed the cap, rotor and wires and it went away ...or so I thought.
It started doing it again yesterday (along with the CEL coming back). I'm now thinking it's an ignition coil problem.

 

[sodaks2k]

Get back on it and it does it again, when it reaches 4000 rpm. It is due for a service next week. Any ideas?

I'd guess the plugs, cap, and rotor. When was the last time they were done?

It started doing it again yesterday (along with the CEL coming back). I'm now thinking it's an ignition coil problem.

Did you ever get the CEL read? It does no good to guess when you can know by having it read.

 

[pbm517]

I wasn't given the code (number) but the mechanic said "it needed a tune-up" after checking it with the code reader.
I had changed the plugs at 80K but the cap, rotor and wires were original so I assumed....
I hate to give the dealer $100 to read a code...because I'm certainly not paying the dealer to change the cap. rotor and wires (or possibly the coil which is $87 at Bernardi parts).
Mine is 'sputtering' at 3K on the tach and once I stay below that it's OK.
Do you think ignition coil is a good prognosis?

 

[sodaks2k]

I hate to give the dealer $100 to read a code...because I'm certainly not paying the dealer to change the cap. rotor and wires (or possibly the coil which is $87 at Bernardi parts).

It could be the coil pack. Autozone and Advanced Auto check/read codes for free where I live. I know in some states that can't though. Give them a call (if you haven't) and see if they can. Don't worry so much about the wires as OEM wires are pretty good. I noticed a difference in mine after changing the cap and rotor as mine would slightly hesitate from 2.5-3k. That was around 170k miles I think.