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I don't want to muck up my new chrome (plated) rims, I'm pretty sure they are aluminum (alloy). I have the 4 Bolt pattern. I also know they (the lug nuts) are 12mm x 1.5, I'm 98% sure they are Acorn Bulge 60 degree conical (seat). I have mass questions, but in favor of time, here's my top 3:
1. What material should they be made of? Steel or aluminum...(to seat on aluminum rim)...and does it matter, as far as corrosion? or safety?
2. How do I know they are properly seated, "BEFORE" running out of threads?
this may be so small, as to shake the rim, while in the air, and to not be noticeable....JUST TRYIN' 2 MAKE SURE/SAFE.
3. I can't remember what 3 was, so I'll explain #2:...
I'm trying to get the top of the nut (WHEN PROPERLY SEATED) to be flush with the rim face...hard to describe, the inner and outer face of the socket hole, is of different height, so I want the top of the nut to match up with the inner face height..follow me? Sorry to ramble on
It's a little quirky I know, I want it to look good, a buddy had some 12mm's he gave me to try...they were too long, stuck out (past the outer height, and looked terrible. If you can help me with 1 and/or 2...I'm sure #3 will find it's forgetful place. Thanks...........Accord on! :thmsup:
 

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For a daily driver, it probably doesn't really matter. But....

1) Steel (chromoly) lugs don't look as pretty as aluminum lugs.

Steel is stronger than aluminum. Steel has a higher fatigue resistance than aluminum, meaning it can withstand many and frequent removals and re-torquing.

Steel lugs may rust if they're used throughout winter (road salt) and aren't kept clean.

Aluminum lugs come in lots of purty colors and are light, which people seem to like. Why? :dunno: Aluminum doesn't rust, but it can corrode.

There are different types of aluminum used to make lugs. The inexpensive lugs use a cheap/soft 6061 grade aluminum. If you want quality/durability, look for aluminum lugs made out of Dura aluminum (may also be called Duralumin or 2024 aluminum) such as those made by Rays and Project Kics, or 7075 forged aluminum. Beware of cheap made in China knock offs.

The downside to aluminum lugs is that they have a poor fatigue resistance (especially the cheaper 6061 aluminum) and if frequently removed and put back on, the threads can be prone to stripping and galling, the chance of cross threading them increases, etc.

Aside from steel and aluminum, there's also titanium. Titanium is strong and light, but titanium lugs are very expensive and they're also susceptible to galling like aluminum lugs.


2A) Get a torque wrench and make sure each lug is torqued to manufacturer specs which should be 80 ft-lbs. They are properly seated at 80 ft-lb

2B) This will be very difficult to achieve. Different wheels have different faces with different curvatures.

The 12mm lugs your buddy gave you didn't work because 12mm doesn't have anything to do with the height or length of the lug nut. 12mm refers to the diameter of the wheel stud. All Honda's have a 12mm stud.

If they were too long, they could have been extended lugs. Measure the length (in mm) of your buddy's lugs. Measure how much more they stick out than you like. Subtract that from the length of the lugs and try to find some in that length.
 
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