Drive Accord Honda Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I suspected that my wimpy 51R battery was getting weak on my '03 Accord I4 so I swung by Autozone and had it tested. Sure enough, their meter read "bad battery". My neighbor is a pretty knowledgeable and has a decent tester so I had him test it just to confirm. I bought a new, quality 51R (I know, should have done the conversion), installed it and it slowly turned over twice and then nothing........like it was another dead battery.
I'm not an idiot but I'm not too technically savvy when it comes to diagnosing electrical problems. I have a gut feeling that the starter is shot but not sure? I have an appointment at a local repair shop for tomorrow but I just don't want to bring it in and get hosed like.....$500 for a new starter that I probably could have done myself. On the other hand, I don't want to "guess" that it's the starter, order a new one and find out that wasn't the problem. Are starters a weak point on 7th generation I4's?
Any way to diagnose with essentially no electrical testing tools? I've posted on here a couple of times and appreciate the advice I have received so much! Any input would be greatly appreciated......thanks.
Oh geez......I hope it's not the starter. I just looked and a new OEM Mitsubishi starter is $350! And.....it says intake manifold has to come off to replace starter. Wow.....hope that isn't it.
 

·
No lifetime fluids!
Joined
·
1,019 Posts
Your neighbor definitley tested the new 51R good?

Does your neighbor maybe have a charger that has a high amp start mode? I'd try that or maybe have someone jump you to make sure that you're getting enough power and then see if it does start.

Connections are definitely tight on the battery? Check where your negative cable goes to at your fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cables/terminals, ground is good. Didn't test new battery.....just assumed. I have a charger that has a high amp start mode. I'll try that.
 

·
No lifetime fluids!
Joined
·
1,019 Posts
Yeah it's worth a shot.

If it doesn't start with that, and you still have access to your old battery, I'd put the old battery back in there and try the high amp start. I have been fortunate enough to receive two brand new out of the door batteries which had shorted cells. The car failed to start and hardly had any power and high amp start did not work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Several recent posts about starters on the 4 cyl engine. It is the ONLY part replaced on my 180,000 mile 4 cyl. In that respect it is a weak spot. Symptoms were slow cranking, like a dying battery. Eventually refused to turn over.

Intake is easy to remove. Starter bolts are more difficult, limited access and tight! Had to break out the air impact gun.

If you can get a current tester for the starter cable it might show excessive draw.
 

·
Comrade
Joined
·
129 Posts
Just changed the starter few months back at 190k km. It was already barely managing to start the car and didn't want to risk it in the winter.
How does the car start if you're boosting it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,741 Posts
Have someone hold the key in the crank position while you bang on the starter with something heavy, like a hammer or lug tool. If it jumps to life, it's the starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I seem to have just about the same issue and the car is at my place of work in the snow covered parking lot. I just love winter and old cars!

Anyway, no mention of this being a fuse issue? I looked at the 50amp fuse for the battery and in the cold and snow i could not figure out how to remove it for a continuity test. I thought the ignition and battery fuse would be a good place to start. Yet it would seem starters do go. I thought slow cranking was just the sign of an old bettery in cold weather. Jump, fully charged battery has not changed the problem. Car will not turn over. She has 230k.
 

·
mobiless2
Joined
·
1,696 Posts
I seem to have just about the same issue and the car is at my place of work in the snow covered parking lot. I just love winter and old cars!

Anyway, no mention of this being a fuse issue? I looked at the 50amp fuse for the battery and in the cold and snow i could not figure out how to remove it for a continuity test. I thought the ignition and battery fuse would be a good place to start. Yet it would seem starters do go. I thought slow cranking was just the sign of an old bettery in cold weather. Jump, fully charged battery has not changed the problem. Car will not turn over. She has 230k.
While someone has key in start position, tap starter with a hammer. If it starts, bad starter.

There was a TSB on a bad starter relay also, swap relay with rear defroster relay or any that look identical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It was starter

Thanks for all the responses....turns out it was the starter. I took it to an actual competant shop in my small town and they did a proper starter load test. The little device that they use to diagnose battery, starter, alternator at Autozone, etc. DOES NOT properly diagnose starter. It hasn't been above 30 degrees where live for quite some time and with no heated garage......I just had the shop do it. Total was $430. That may sound like a lot but considering my cost would have been $200 for a QUALITY rebuilt.........that's not too bad. They charged me $250 for the same Bosch rebuilt that I would have bought so what they charged me for labor was not unreasonable. FYI....I called the Honda dealer that's 50 miles away......$1000 for the job for the oem mitsu starter, $870 for a rebuilt mitsubishi.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top