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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
My cruise control on the 03 sedan Accord automatic doesn't engage when initiated. The Main Cruise is lit when pressed as well as the Set/Decel button but doesn't engage nor hold speed. As soon as I let go the gas in any speed 40-80mph, speed begins to drop. I'm hoping that one of you experts here can help me out.

So far I've checked the cable ends from the actuator to the throttle and inspected the flimsy plastic piece, all seemed to be fine. Actuator seemed to be in good shape with the end attached properly and is also plugged. The brake lights are good and have no issue with shifting in gear. Fuses were also inspected. Any help is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. However how do I adjust the brake light switch to accommodate just the cruise control? I've read other forums that the brake light switch affects both the brake lights and the cruise control. In my case here, the brake lights work just fine as well as the shifting.
 

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You don't adjust it. It either works or is broken. You can take the switch out and open it up for inspection. But you better have some confidence in doing such things. It may not be the switch. You were just given a suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, I wasn't going to either. At least until I know for sure it's the culprit. But still it's a good suggestion. Today, I've read another forum about the same issue as mine where he changed out the Auto Cruise Module under the dash and has worked for him. Maybe I'll try that but it's not cheap, around $40 on ebay. I'll wait a couple more days to allow everyone to make suggestions, hopefully someone can pinpoint what really is the culprit.
 

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No one on the internet will be able to tell you for sure, it not like we can test your car for you. We can only tell you our opinion of what broke. I would say to check the brake switch. Its free if you have the tools and if you don't it might be a good thing to invest in.

If you have a multimeter, or can borrow one, check the brake switch your self. It might be possible to use a 12V light instead of a multimeter, but I am not familiar with the circuit.
 

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The brake switch has two circuits in it. I took mine apart, fixed it by bending some contacts so that they'd make better contact, and put it back in til the new one arrived in the mail. Now I have a spare. My issue with the brake switch was that I'd step on the brake pedal and it still wouldn't allow me to shift out of park.
 

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Cruising in Montana
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The brake switch has two circuits in it. I took mine apart, fixed it by bending some contacts so that they'd make better contact, and put it back in til the new one arrived in the mail.
vangmkong, there's your answer. Replace the switch. One part of it controls the brake lights, the other part controls the cruise control. (and one of those two controls the brake/transaxle shift interlock solenoid as well.)
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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How, did you guys land so definitely on the brake switch so quickly? The more likely culprit is the clock spring which is very common on the '03s, ask me how I know. :wink
And, just because the other things that receive power via the clock spring work doesn't mean the clock spring is ok. My cruise became intermittent exhibiting the same symptoms as the OP but the horn and radio controls worked fine. Then the radio controls went out but the cruise still worked intermittently. The horn has n ever stopped working.
.
 

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I didn't land on anything. Merely sharing what I know. For all I know it's a broken Johnson rod.

Taking the switch apart and taking a look at it is easy. But the parts inside are tiny and if you're not careful you'll drop them and never be able to put it back together. Plus, the switch is less than $5 on rockauto. One could do a replace/test for less than the cost of a beer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No one on the internet will be able to tell you for sure, it not like we can test your car for you. We can only tell you our opinion of what broke. I would say to check the brake switch. Its free if you have the tools and if you don't it might be a good thing to invest in.

If you have a multimeter, or can borrow one, check the brake switch your self. It might be possible to use a 12V light instead of a multimeter, but I am not familiar with the circuit.
Thanks for they reply. Although, assumed I can get a multimeter, how am I to go from testing out the brake switch, particularly the cruise control circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How, did you guys land so definitely on the brake switch so quickly? The more likely culprit is the clock spring which is very common on the '03s, ask me how I know. :wink
And, just because the other things that receive power via the clock spring work doesn't mean the clock spring is ok. My cruise became intermittent exhibiting the same symptoms as the OP but the horn and radio controls worked fine. Then the radio controls went out but the cruise still worked intermittently. The horn has n ever stopped working.
.
Thanks for the reply, would you have a picture of the clock spring and where it's location is? I might check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The brake switch has two circuits in it. I took mine apart, fixed it by bending some contacts so that they'd make better contact, and put it back in til the new one arrived in the mail. Now I have a spare. My issue with the brake switch was that I'd step on the brake pedal and it still wouldn't allow me to shift out of park.
Thanks for the info, although my brake lights seemed to work fine and I've never had any issue with shifting out of gear. Also, when I stepped on the brake pedal after failed trying to set my cruise speed, the set light in the gauge comes off as if it was working. Again, both lights (Main Cruise and Set/Decel) work just fine meaning the lights inside the gauge comes off and on once I pressed the buttons on the steering wheel, only that it doesn't hold speed.
 

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Thanks for they reply. Although, assumed I can get a multimeter, how am I to go from testing out the brake switch, particularly the cruise control circuit?
I did assume, but it would be a good thing to get for diagnosing electrical problems. Quality ones can be had for ~$50 but the crap $5 ones might be enough for you just don't ever use them on anything over 30V.

You can use it to check connectivity and resistivity in the brake switch to see if it is failing. Make sure both switches show continuity when engadged and there resistance is similar. A failing brake switch can cause the cruse control to disengage before it causes your brake lights to fail.

You could also do the same thing for the clock spring. Check connectivity of all the pins passing through should tell you if any of the wires have failed. The clock spring is located behind the steering wheel and airbag.

But given that the lights turn on and off correctly but the speed isn't set it might be a problem elsewhere. I could brake out the FSM tonight and see if there is a diagnostics procedure if you want? Or maybe someone else could check the FSM.
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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To clarify, when you turn on CC, the light on the dash illuminates, correct? Assuming that is correct which of the following scenarios matches your situation?:

A. When you push the Set/Decel button to engage the CC, the light comes on indicating that CC is engaged but it does not engage.

B. When you push the Set/Decel button the light comes on but goes out as soon as you release the Set/Decel button.

C. When you push the Set/decel button nothing happens. No light comes on indicating that CC has been engaged. CC does not engage at all.

Do you have radio controls on your steering wheel and does the horn work?

You want to rule out every other possibility before jumping into the clock spring (Honda calls it a cable reel) . It's located behind the air bag in your steering wheel and provides power to the modules located on the wheel. It does so by continuing to make contact with the various electrical components without being subject to the fatigue and tangling that would occur if a wire harness were used. Imagine how quickly wires would fail from the amount of turning the steering wheel undergoes. It's not an easy job and requires disengaging the air bag, pulling the steering wheel and replacing the clock spring which, isn't a walk in the park by itself.
If you successfully rule out the brake switch, the only definite way to diagnose the clock spring is to have the system scanned by a dealer or a shop that has that ability.

The brake switch is the easiest and least expensive fix if it turns out to indeed be the switch. My FSM shows the switch as being $6.30 - and that's from the dealer! Removal and installation takes a total of 1 minute (if you know exactly where it is, how to remove it, etc.). It's literally as easy as grasping the switch assembly, twisting it 1/4 turn and pulling it out. Installation is the reverse.

I hope it's the switch. If not, the next thing to diagnose is the Set/Decel button itself to ensure it is making contact. If so, the next thing is the clock spring.

Good luck and be sure to report back with your findings.

Good luck,
Coach
 

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The brake switch is the easiest and least expensive fix if it turns out to indeed be the switch. My FSM shows the switch as being $6.30 - and that's from the dealer! Removal and installation takes a total of 1 minute (if you know exactly where it is, how to remove it, etc.). It's literally as easy as grasping the switch assembly, twisting it 1/4 turn and pulling it out. Installation is the reverse.
Good post Coach. It actually takes longer to remove/replace the plastic/insulated bottom dash cover than it does to remove/replace the switch.
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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Good post Coach. It actually takes longer to remove/replace the plastic/insulated bottom dash cover than it does to remove/replace the switch.
Thanks!
I just re-read the entire thread and now realize I missed a couple of key points along the way. Since both lights associated with the CC illuminate on the dash when their corresponding buttons are pressed - AND - the light goes out when the brake pedal is pressed, but there is no engagement of the CC, I'm convinced the brake switch as well as the CC buttons are functioning properly and the problem is in a faulty CC module itself.

OP, did you check both fuses ? Check the No.13 (20 A ) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No.18 (15 A ) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

The CC module part number is: 36700-SDA-A01
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
To clarify, when you turn on CC, the light on the dash illuminates, correct? Assuming that is correct which of the following scenarios matches your situation?:

A. When you push the Set/Decel button to engage the CC, the light comes on indicating that CC is engaged but it does not engage.

B. When you push the Set/Decel button the light comes on but goes out as soon as you release the Set/Decel button.

C. When you push the Set/decel button nothing happens. No light comes on indicating that CC has been engaged. CC does not engage at all.

Do you have radio controls on your steering wheel and does the horn work?

You want to rule out every other possibility before jumping into the clock spring (Honda calls it a cable reel) . It's located behind the air bag in your steering wheel and provides power to the modules located on the wheel. It does so by continuing to make contact with the various electrical components without being subject to the fatigue and tangling that would occur if a wire harness were used. Imagine how quickly wires would fail from the amount of turning the steering wheel undergoes. It's not an easy job and requires disengaging the air bag, pulling the steering wheel and replacing the clock spring which, isn't a walk in the park by itself.
If you successfully rule out the brake switch, the only definite way to diagnose the clock spring is to have the system scanned by a dealer or a shop that has that ability.

The brake switch is the easiest and least expensive fix if it turns out to indeed be the switch. My FSM shows the switch as being $6.30 - and that's from the dealer! Removal and installation takes a total of 1 minute (if you know exactly where it is, how to remove it, etc.). It's literally as easy as grasping the switch assembly, twisting it 1/4 turn and pulling it out. Installation is the reverse.

I hope it's the switch. If not, the next thing to diagnose is the Set/Decel button itself to ensure it is making contact. If so, the next thing is the clock spring.

Good luck and be sure to report back with your findings.

Good luck,
Coach
Thanks for the info, my situation best fit your "A" example. I'll look into the brake switch and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks!
I just re-read the entire thread and now realize I missed a couple of key points along the way. Since both lights associated with the CC illuminate on the dash when their corresponding buttons are pressed - AND - the light goes out when the brake pedal is pressed, but there is no engagement of the CC, I'm convinced the brake switch as well as the CC buttons are functioning properly and the problem is in a faulty CC module itself.

OP, did you check both fuses ? Check the No.13 (20 A ) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No.18 (15 A ) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

The CC module part number is: 36700-SDA-A01
Yes, both the fuses were just rechecked and still intact. I'll look into the module. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay, looks like my problem's solved. I bought a used Auto Cruise Control module from ebay($30) and replaced out the old one. Tested it out on the hiway and CC holds speed:)
In case anyone else wonder where the Auto Cruise Control is, it's under the dashboard on the left side panel. It's the one with the light blue plug. Pictures are shown below. Thanks again for everyone's replies.
 

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