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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, here's the issue. I've searched everything for a solution including other forums and I have only a slight idea of what I could do to fix this.

2 weeks ago I got an opportunity to pick up this Redondo red 04 sedan (auto) EX-L with 85K for $2000(yeaaaaah buddy). Driving a beat up 07 LX, I jumped on this. I've done some small fixes including resurfacing the rotors and cleaning the pads (front and rear) just to get it road ready before I can throw new stuff on there because they were actually pretty bad. Remember this for later, but all 4 rotors had the set screws in place.

I finally got a chance to throw rear pads and rotors on, and immediately ran into an issue. As you know, the rear rotors on these cars are single layer, so no cooling fins, but on the top of the rotor, outside edge, something was scraping. It was scraped from black (zinc coating) to shiny, bare metal. I disassembled them and bent up the clip that sits in the center of the caliper itself as well was mess with the pad shims to make them seat on the brackets better (I did this without a lift, as opposed to when I cut and cleaned everything at the dealership previous to this). The brackets didn't need to be sandblasted, they were fairly clean so I lubed everything and installed them.

Upon a second test drive, it had jumped from both sides to just the driver side. Finnicked with the shims and clip more, and the first test drive trigger the noise immediately after engaging the ebrake. This noise was fixed, but I recently had to use my ebrake a bunch as I installed a PAC double din kit and had to move the shift lever back for more room.

Today, it started making the same noises as it did two weeks ago. I thought I had fixed it, but it's back. Now, I know they're there for a reason, but I took and kept the set screws out because they were corroded and my 07 LX didn't have any and never exhibited such issues.

As for the fixes I've thought about, I read that I could clean the hub before the rotor so it sits more even or regrease the caliper slide pins (even though I had done that when I put the new pads and rotors in.

Now should I put the set screws back in? When I ran into the problem the first time, I couldn't find the opposite part the rotor was scraping (and trust me, I looked every where for contact marks)
I'm lost, as my LX has rear drums and I've gained no experience with rear accord disc brakes before now so I have no idea what I may or may not have done wrong. I work at a subaru dealership, so I have my own lift, tools, and time to do anything myself. I recently took the car to a local hond as dealer for the DSPS recall the previous owner never did, and they did a multipoint and noted how bad the brakes were (this was before i did the pads and rotors) and they didn't note anything else other than the condition of the pads and rotors. And when I got the new parts, the pads came with 2 different kinds of caliper clips and pad shims (I'm assuming because V6 rear pads are the same and the pad kit is universal?)


Sorry for the long post, but I'm lost and I'm already chasing time to do an alignment because my wheel is off center, and a creaking in the front (I think) when stopping, or the vehicle transfers weight to the front. Help.



Thanks!
 

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Pilot without a plane
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Set screws - Everything I've seen on these are that they are installed just for initial assy of the car. They don't matter anyway because as you tighten the lug nuts, the rotor will press against the hub. I don't have all of mine on my car now.

Clips - After I installed my Powerstop pads and rotors, I had some grinding. Thought I had everything in place ok. Took it apart, checked it, and reinstalled. Still grinding...crap. Then I looked at my old clips and saw they were wider than the Powerstop clips. Took the new clips off and reinstalled the old clips. Problem solved. No grinding.

Also on the pads, there may be a raised bump on the back surface of the pad. That needs to sit down in the groove on the caliper piston or the pad won't sit correctly.
 

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Also on the pads, there may be a raised bump on the back surface of the pad. That needs to sit down in the groove on the caliper piston or the pad won't sit correctly.
^^^ this. There is a pin on the back of the inside pads. That pin fits in to a slot (a + actually) on the piston. If it is not in that slot, weird things happen.

As for the screws, I'm a believer. And note that they are a #3 JIS, not Phillips.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow dude! 670k on an 03 coupe?! Congrats!

Anyways, I paid special attention to the caliper cylinder and the rear pad face to line them up correctly. I'm not sure how that would cause something to scrape the outer edge of the TOP of the rotor but I can look into it again when I tear everything apart. I didn't keep the old shims and clips as they were falling apart and I naively expected everything to be a direct replacement.


As for the clips, what do you mean by wider? Because the inside of the shims fit where they should on the caliper bracket, but the pads also came with shims that had those stabilizing tabs in the middle of the, as opposed to the sides. I accidentally put one of those on the the bottom of the caliper bracket on the driver side and switched it out after my first test drive thinking that that was what caused the scraping, as it seems like those tabs sat closer to the top of the rotor but like I said, after using the ebrake pretty heavily (which also feels as if it could be tightened), it suddenly came back. And not even right after I had used the ebrake last. More like 6-7 hours after I last had the e brake up.

I'm really not sure what happened or why these pads and shims wouldn't work, I'll try to look harder for any contact points if i get time to lift my car tomorrow but I'm looking for a few ideas to pursue and maybe some piece of mind. Cause like I said, I'm new to these rear disc brakes

^^^ this. There is a pin on the back of the inside pads. That pin fits in to a slot (a + actually) on the piston. If it is not in that slot, weird things happen.

As for the screws, I'm a believer. And note that they are a #3 JIS, not Phillips.
Yep, I have an impact screwdriver specifically for set screws. Came with multiple heads and I had little issues getting them out, but I didn't think much to keep them seeing as how I know the rims seat the rotor over the hub anyways
 

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Pilot without a plane
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20200708_225647.jpg


Hey, thanks! Love my car. It's been phenomenal.

In the pic above, I circled one of the knobs that protrudes from the back face of the pad. If not in the + groove, the pad won't sit flat and will be cocked at an angle.

On the clip, I drew 2 lines to show what I'm referring to. The distance between those lines on my Powerstop clips was smaller than my previous clips. Both clips set in the caliper and held pads just fine. The narrower clip rubbed the rotor after I applied the brakes. I believe my rubbing was at the outer edge of the rotor too. I hope this helps. It sounds like you're dealing with what I had.
 

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I'll try to look harder for any contact points if i get time to lift my car tomorrow but I'm looking for a few ideas to pursue and maybe some piece of mind.
The only way you would have some piece of mind stuck in your brake calipers is if you regularly hit people or animals.
 

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You need to follow t-rd's thread on the proper way to do these brakes, he's got the absolute best thread on a thorough Honda brake job.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I completely understand, okay so I obviously threw out the correct shims... but I know I can get more. Speaking of piece of mind, thank you!

UPDATE: put the second style of shims in, noticed contact points on the anti-vibration clip that sits at the top of the caliper and pushes on the pads.

Anyone have any remedies?

You need to follow t-rd's thread on the proper way to do these brakes, he's got the absolute best thread on a thorough Honda brake job.
Interesting, so I can just search him and the look for his thread on this?
 
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