06 Accord Coupe V6 build thread

atrax said:

looks like your accord's grazing on the grass.

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lol it totally does! haha that pic was mainly to show the damage left behind from the previous owner :thumbsdow

cintocrunch said:

Looks good and finally a youngin with maintenance on the list! Welcome aboard, mate!

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Thanks for the warm welcome! and yes I will admit I wanted to do all these cosmetics before maintenance, but I know that's not the RIGHT way to do it lol, so as soon as I heard some weird noises, I knew that would be the first on my list to fix before anything else. I do have some really bad oxidation on my roof though, I want to take care of that ASAP;however the DIY route is the way I chose to go as I already have a gun and compressor I just need the 2k clear and catalyst.

Lowandslow said:

Your grille looks out of place. Like it's not snapped into the slits on the bottom portion onto the bumper.

and good luck fitting inspire fogs on a coupe.

last but not least, good luck finding a 03-05 front lip. lol Well, OEM that is.

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Lol the parking was for the picture I almost never park like that for that very reason, but thanks for the advice! Also you are spot on about those clips, the passenger side of the front bumper clip is broken also ALL of the bottom clips for the grill were gone when I got the car....no bueno :/ I should probably order a set of 25 off eBay soon lol I saw they're super cheap. I've read that its a lot more bumper cutting for the coupe but I didn't think it should be that much tougher than a sedan bumper? Am I wrong??

Lowandslow said:

Well, you don't have to use the clips. There's a little slit on the bumper where it meets the grille, and you can just "snap/push" it in there. Mines held in with no clips on the bottom just by the little slits.

Well, the sedan and coupe bumper are completely different. Different shape, different grill, different fog lights. The holes make look the same, but I believe no ones done it because it takes work.





you have a 06 accord, thus you have a 7.5 gen. If you want the 03-05 lip, you have to cut a little of the middle of the lip because the lower grille opening on the 03-05 bumper is larger.

And I don't think it'll be possible to retrofit those because of how small they are. My buddy did ls430 retros' on his fogs but were the oem ones. there was barely any room left.

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NightFire said:

Be careful rolling forward on those parking spots, I had the bad experience of finding one that was a little to high on an ex's car (uhh..) Now I never park near curbs or parking blocks. Other than that, looks great!

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accord42792 said:

Yup. I got an 03. And i though about retroing fogs too but like Lowandslow said the lights are to small but never know. Not sure how good at modding you are to get something to fit in them

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Lowandslow said:

From the front it looks fine. But the back looks terrible. There's glue/hondabonda type material all over the back and looks bad. But that's just me. you can't see it obviously since it's in the back, but dam. so much glue.

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I've been anticipating that retrofit for awhile now, and I decided I really wanted to try it mainly because I wanted the extra output. I know right now I'm running one of the crappiest setups for output available as far as a retro goes (mini H1 and 35w) lol but I plan to upgrade to FX-Rs or TL when I actually do the quad, and use the minis as the secondary. I also want a nice sharp cutoff for the fogs, I don't really need bi-xenon for the fogs but it would be nice. I also thought it would be a good idea, because I can get a pair of aftermarket inspires on ebay or amazon for around $50-60 and a set of mini h1's for $45. Anyways I don't want to think about any of that right now as I'm still trying to work out all the mechanical kinks, mainly suspension problems.

So today I took off both lower control arms. My dad helped me so we got it done fairly quickly. Unfortunately me being and idiot didn't check with napa beforehand to check if they can do it on a sunday....so I called them AFTER we took them off only to find out that they don't press anything on the weekends :grumpy: FML so I had to leave my car at my dad's house on jack stands over night, and I'm going to go get my bushings pressed during my lunch break tomorrow at work.

But wait! there's more GREAT NEWS! so upon removing the lower control arm on the passengers side, I noticed on that control arm that another bushing was also cracked, the middle one I believe that goes between the knuckle. Also, my lower ball joint has a big long crack on the side of the boot. Not only that but both of my outer tie rod ends are very loose and have a lot of wiggle/play without me using much strength at all.


Control Arms




Compliance bushing



middle control arm bushing


end-link


Torn lower ball joint :thumbsdow

cintocrunch said:

None of the images are working but welcome to suspension work...you've got to always assume every bushing/, ball joint, end link, etc. needs to be replaced as a good rule of thumb. I'd rather have the parts and return them unused (or just install all new and be done) than make 5 trips for parts as I find new things that need replacing.

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Right now that my ball joint is torn I asked them about that part and they said maybe I could just replace the boot or "dust guard" and leave the ball joint in there? Idk I guess I'll see if this end link and bushings take care of the noise and if I still hear it then maybe its the bad ball joint. I wouldn't doubt it because I do believe that I'm only hearing it from the passenger's side mainly. My gf who is mainly my number one passenger says she hears it in the middle? Which leads me to believe it could be my sway bar bushings? I think I might buy those and replace those as well just because I was moving around my sway bar and it can rotate 360° if there weren't any things in the way, what I'm saying is I think its really loose, but visually it looks fine.

Update: a few hours later

I'm pissed to say the very least, waiting at a bus stop while I type this. Napa failed to align the rotation of my compliance bushings the same way the factory bushings were installed. There are no notches or marks on the control arm itself to match up with the arrows on the bushing so the guy who pressed it and whom I was questioning about the rotation looking wrong said its fine and tried to bullshit his way out of it. So he said if there's any problems bring it back, it was already late we were stuck in rush hour traffic so there was no going back. And making it there before closing time at least. Anyways I immediately called my dads friend who was a Honda mechanic for 15 years and he verified that I was correct and that they were WRONG. not only that but I told them not to press the two other bushings that I had bought, but they did it anyways and charged me the extra 80 (40 each) actually 35 four days ago but apparently that changed. I think these ****ing assholes think they can just bullshit me whatever they want with their lack of knowledge and unstable prices. Either way I'm not paying for a job done wrong especially if they're charging me more than what I had agreed to pay for.

I'm gonna take it back tomorrow for them to redo the job that should've been done right in the first place, especially for $160 for a 5-10 minute job. I am not giving them another penny, my only problem now is that I don't know that right points for the arrow marks, I've been looking for pictures online of other control arms with the bushings pressed CORRECTLY to see where those arrow marks are, but haven't been getting much luck. I'm pretty sure I have a good idea of where they are just from memory, but I want to be sure. If I could find a legit official diagram or guide for the arrow marks on the bushings and/or the control arm then I could finish this once and for all and get my shit back together. Also I know that I need to do it, because those guys are stupid and won't even try to make sense of the rotation of the bushing. As soon as I looked at it, I knew right away that something wasn't right about it.

i shouldve just got these http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...=op7b25aqgfkm&cj=1&flexid=viglink&CID=2470763

Here is an example of a pic I found on some singapore honda forums, anyways it shows a perfect diagram of the marks I'm talking about;however my control arm doesn't have mark on it like this picture does so that is why the guy didn't think it needed to go in a certain way

Yeah I guess I wasn't very clear in my first post, but I was trying to say that it's still wrong and 90 degrees rotation probably makes a difference but not a big enough difference for me to hassle them again. They were already so pissed that I made them redo it. I think if I have to change another bushing or anything to do with those lower control arms again, I'm just going to buy a set of aftermarket MOOG LCAs because it was not worth the trouble here, pressing bushings is a job nobody wants to do. Until I find that special friend lol, then all my problems will be solved.


On another note; my lower ball joints came in today from ebay. I want to do them this weekend but I might have to wait til next week so I can use my dads carport, and his help of course. He also has a torque wrench which is kinda important...LOL I'm gonna rent the ball joint press for FREE ($117 collateral) so I'm pretty stoked about that.

this is the link of the ball joints I ordered, my stupid self thought that it was OEM but the brand name is "O.E." wtf I felt retarded when I found that out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181518440189?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Yesterday I changed out my passenger side ball joint, and ripped the boot on the first attempt so I couldn't change the driver side as well, but that was ok because it started to get dark and I was tired lol. I should've just busted out my air impact gun from the start and saved myself time and labor but of course I didn't, til I REALLY needed too.. anyways here are some pics

Before (it was incredibly loose and would move all over even with the rubber boot on)


After




I have been itching to do a 3x3 ATF drain and fill, but have been lacking the parts to do so. I want to order the filter already but not sure where to order it from. The dealership costs, about $30 for just the filter alone, including all the other orings and bushings/washers, the total comes out to a whopping $50. Idk maybe that's not a lot but it seemed a tad bit high for me. I thhought I could save at least $10ish by getting the filter from somewhere else. But if it's more trouble than it's worth I might just give in to the stealership. I found this on ebay, it says it's not compatible with my car whe I do the vehicle check; however it is the correct part number. what do you guys think? also this is the ONLY one that will ship to hawaii/alaska and is still cheaper than $30, not by much but still cheaper and still OEM.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-OEM-2...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8d42d353&vxp=mtr



Just checked about 5 different honda OEM discount online stores and the best deal I could find was at HONDAPARTSNOW for about $33 after shipping costs.

t-rd said:

I've never seen anything like that on the banjo bolt and I've changed the transmission filter 3 times in 190k miles. The important thing you need to know is that the fluid needs to be changed regularly, not so much the filter. You should change out the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches also.

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Yes it was actually inside the bolt and I had to dig it out because it was kinda lodged in there. I want to change the pressure switches in just having trouble finding somewhere I can get both for around $70 including shipping.

On another note I did my front and side motor mounts today myself and I gotta say it made a world of a difference. No more bouncing/knocking noises while driving on flat smooth roads anymore, also while in reverse it is almost silent now, as opposed to before where it would make a loud shaking noise and also shake the whole car/steering wheel.

Front mount


Side mount


I was just reading this about TC damage and restricted flow http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/Cooler_Circuit.html . I'm definitely going to change my pressure switches ASAP I have no idea how long that bolt was clogged up like that. I'm considering adding a trans cooler after reading this.

Changed my 3rd and 4th oil pressure switches today as they finally arrived in the mail. They were from amazon, and only $56 including shipping. seems to be genuine honda oem switches. Unfortunately my rough shifting is still prevalent, I was thinking maybe it takes a little while for the ECU to adjust or I could be completely wrong...idk. either way, I didn't notice a difference in shifting after changing them and going for a quick drive.

I also changed my drive/serpentine belt yesterday after replacing my power-steering pump bolt, I noticed it was fraying/ripping in one area and it scared me, so I bought a Gates micro-v belt from Napa right away.

Also forgot to mention I did an oil change and am coming close to 80k.
This time I chose to use royal purple 5w 20 motor oil, and I'm gonna stick with this one. Honda OEM filter as well.