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06 Accord Coupe V6 build thread

11021 Views 38 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  quikjake
Hi guys, I've been on these forums for a little while now and been mostly lurking and researching/learning a lot about my car and everyone else's car on here too lol. It's about time I start my own thread for my car, and the additions or modifications I've done to it. I also want to post all my maintenance and repairs in here as well. I've been putting off repairs for too long now, and I've finally bought the new parts to get the job done, now it's just a matter of getting it done lol.

Anyways, I got this car almost a year ago with nearly 73k miles on it, and a like new leather interior :thmsup:! that was the selling point for me. It had some pretty bad scratches and dents on the front bumper passenger side also holes all over the rear bumper from what looks like someone's bolts from license plates that the previous owner backed into SEVERAL TIMES :thumbsdow so I knew I was going to do bodywork/paint sometime down the rode after I've scratched it up enough lol because this is my FIRST car :biggrin: so i know it's gonna happen, although I do know how to park unlike the previous owner ugh, I got a backup cam asap lol because why wouldn't you?

Other than that everything was running great and smoothly when I first got it, then a couple months of aggressive driving and a few joy rides it started to make a couple subtle yet noticeable engine/suspension noises :dunno: it took me awhile to figure it out but after a lot of searching and reading I read it could be my compliance bushings in my lower control arm or maybe my sway bar end-links. Sure enough on BOTH SIDES the rubber is cracked on each one of those parts :grumpy: well I was glad I found the problem finally.

Before I do anymore mods/additions to my car I want to make sure it's running in tip top shape and as healthy as can be.
Here is a list of the maintenance/repairs I want to do:
ATF Drain and fill 3x
Rotors (rust, screeching)
ALL Motor Mounts
Transmission Mounts
Drive Belt/Serpentine Belt
Timing Belt and Water Pump

Future mods not in any particular order:
30% tint all around
HID or LED reverse light
05' font lip
Inspire fogs
Quad HID retrofit
Bluetooth/aux/ipod input
Cold Air Intake
In-dash tablet/carpc

Things I've done or added so far (in order):
Plastidip grill matte black
Plastidip wheels gloss black
Paint break calipers "Ford blue"
Foot well 5050 LED music reactive strips
HID Mini H1 Projector Retrofit
2 10" Kicker Comps ported box
600w Kicker KX600.1 Amp
Stealthy backup cam & 3.5" temporary screen in cubby

Here are some shitty phone pics just to give you guys an idea of what my daily looks like.

The parts I bought a couple days ago

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looks like your accord's grazing on the grass.
lol it totally does! haha that pic was mainly to show the damage left behind from the previous owner :thumbsdow

Looks good and finally a youngin with maintenance on the list! Welcome aboard, mate!
Thanks for the warm welcome! and yes I will admit I wanted to do all these cosmetics before maintenance, but I know that's not the RIGHT way to do it lol, so as soon as I heard some weird noises, I knew that would be the first on my list to fix before anything else. I do have some really bad oxidation on my roof though, I want to take care of that ASAP;however the DIY route is the way I chose to go as I already have a gun and compressor I just need the 2k clear and catalyst.

Your grille looks out of place. Like it's not snapped into the slits on the bottom portion onto the bumper.

and good luck fitting inspire fogs on a coupe.

last but not least, good luck finding a 03-05 front lip. lol Well, OEM that is.
Lol the parking was for the picture I almost never park like that for that very reason, but thanks for the advice! Also you are spot on about those clips, the passenger side of the front bumper clip is broken also ALL of the bottom clips for the grill were gone when I got the bueno :/ I should probably order a set of 25 off eBay soon lol I saw they're super cheap. I've read that its a lot more bumper cutting for the coupe but I didn't think it should be that much tougher than a sedan bumper? Am I wrong??
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I see it now. Different fog cover that the normal (atleast the ones i see and the ones that were on mine). Guess i didnt look good enough the first time

And welcome OP, forgot to mention that earlier:wave:
thank you! I think my fogs covers, and bumper style is the 06-07 or 7.5 gen, and it looks like yours is 03-05 coupe bumper? either way...I can't wait to get my fogs I plan to retrofit projectors in my inspire fogs
Well, you don't have to use the clips. There's a little slit on the bumper where it meets the grille, and you can just "snap/push" it in there. Mines held in with no clips on the bottom just by the little slits.

Well, the sedan and coupe bumper are completely different. Different shape, different grill, different fog lights. The holes make look the same, but I believe no ones done it because it takes work.

you have a 06 accord, thus you have a 7.5 gen. If you want the 03-05 lip, you have to cut a little of the middle of the lip because the lower grille opening on the 03-05 bumper is larger.

And I don't think it'll be possible to retrofit those because of how small they are. My buddy did ls430 retros' on his fogs but were the oem ones. there was barely any room left.
Be careful rolling forward on those parking spots, I had the bad experience of finding one that was a little to high on an ex's car (uhh..) Now I never park near curbs or parking blocks. Other than that, looks great!
Yup. I got an 03. And i though about retroing fogs too but like Lowandslow said the lights are to small but never know. Not sure how good at modding you are to get something to fit in them
From the front it looks fine. But the back looks terrible. There's glue/hondabonda type material all over the back and looks bad. But that's just me. you can't see it obviously since it's in the back, but dam. so much glue.

I've been anticipating that retrofit for awhile now, and I decided I really wanted to try it mainly because I wanted the extra output. I know right now I'm running one of the crappiest setups for output available as far as a retro goes (mini H1 and 35w) lol but I plan to upgrade to FX-Rs or TL when I actually do the quad, and use the minis as the secondary. I also want a nice sharp cutoff for the fogs, I don't really need bi-xenon for the fogs but it would be nice. I also thought it would be a good idea, because I can get a pair of aftermarket inspires on ebay or amazon for around $50-60 and a set of mini h1's for $45. Anyways I don't want to think about any of that right now as I'm still trying to work out all the mechanical kinks, mainly suspension problems.

So today I took off both lower control arms. My dad helped me so we got it done fairly quickly. Unfortunately me being and idiot didn't check with napa beforehand to check if they can do it on a I called them AFTER we took them off only to find out that they don't press anything on the weekends :grumpy: FML so I had to leave my car at my dad's house on jack stands over night, and I'm going to go get my bushings pressed during my lunch break tomorrow at work.

But wait! there's more GREAT NEWS! so upon removing the lower control arm on the passengers side, I noticed on that control arm that another bushing was also cracked, the middle one I believe that goes between the knuckle. Also, my lower ball joint has a big long crack on the side of the boot. Not only that but both of my outer tie rod ends are very loose and have a lot of wiggle/play without me using much strength at all.

Control Arms

Compliance bushing

middle control arm bushing


Torn lower ball joint :thumbsdow

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None of the images are working but welcome to suspension've got to always assume every bushing/, ball joint, end link, etc. needs to be replaced as a good rule of thumb. I'd rather have the parts and return them unused (or just install all new and be done) than make 5 trips for parts as I find new things that need replacing.
Right now that my ball joint is torn I asked them about that part and they said maybe I could just replace the boot or "dust guard" and leave the ball joint in there? Idk I guess I'll see if this end link and bushings take care of the noise and if I still hear it then maybe its the bad ball joint. I wouldn't doubt it because I do believe that I'm only hearing it from the passenger's side mainly. My gf who is mainly my number one passenger says she hears it in the middle? Which leads me to believe it could be my sway bar bushings? I think I might buy those and replace those as well just because I was moving around my sway bar and it can rotate 360° if there weren't any things in the way, what I'm saying is I think its really loose, but visually it looks fine.

Update: a few hours later

I'm pissed to say the very least, waiting at a bus stop while I type this. Napa failed to align the rotation of my compliance bushings the same way the factory bushings were installed. There are no notches or marks on the control arm itself to match up with the arrows on the bushing so the guy who pressed it and whom I was questioning about the rotation looking wrong said its fine and tried to bullshit his way out of it. So he said if there's any problems bring it back, it was already late we were stuck in rush hour traffic so there was no going back. And making it there before closing time at least. Anyways I immediately called my dads friend who was a Honda mechanic for 15 years and he verified that I was correct and that they were WRONG. not only that but I told them not to press the two other bushings that I had bought, but they did it anyways and charged me the extra 80 (40 each) actually 35 four days ago but apparently that changed. I think these ****ing assholes think they can just bullshit me whatever they want with their lack of knowledge and unstable prices. Either way I'm not paying for a job done wrong especially if they're charging me more than what I had agreed to pay for.

I'm gonna take it back tomorrow for them to redo the job that should've been done right in the first place, especially for $160 for a 5-10 minute job. I am not giving them another penny, my only problem now is that I don't know that right points for the arrow marks, I've been looking for pictures online of other control arms with the bushings pressed CORRECTLY to see where those arrow marks are, but haven't been getting much luck. I'm pretty sure I have a good idea of where they are just from memory, but I want to be sure. If I could find a legit official diagram or guide for the arrow marks on the bushings and/or the control arm then I could finish this once and for all and get my shit back together. Also I know that I need to do it, because those guys are stupid and won't even try to make sense of the rotation of the bushing. As soon as I looked at it, I knew right away that something wasn't right about it.

i shouldve just got these

Here is an example of a pic I found on some singapore honda forums, anyways it shows a perfect diagram of the marks I'm talking about;however my control arm doesn't have mark on it like this picture does so that is why the guy didn't think it needed to go in a certain way

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Nah. They looked great from the front and the output was good. He was just getting rid of it and sold me things for dirt cheap. Hell, the coils I'm on now I got for $150 and they're $850+ brand new. lol
I envy your parts hookups, if I could find quality coilovers for $150 I'd buy them in a heartbeat lol hey I recall you saying your accord was boosted to 470 whp at one point?! How did you achieve such powa???

BTW where are those fogs now?

Here are a couple of pictures of my 6-6 coupe lower control arms from when I had my bushings replaced. This pic shows the entire LCAs

And this pic shows a closeup of the markings that I highlighted with a silver sharpie on both the old and new bushings and control arms before I brought it in to the shop to have them pressed out/in.

Good luck getting them to fix it for you!
Thank you for the quick reply unfortunately I dropped it off in the morning before I went to work and before I had seen this message. I can tell by looking at it that the bushing needs to be rotated about 90° to be in the correct position, but I had went through so much trouble with these assholes and they were already pissed that I made them redo it for free. So I just said forget it and walked out of there. I don't want to deal with those guys anymore.

Here are the pics of the stupidly pressed bushings from yesterday that was OBVIOUSLY not right just by looking at it.

And here are pics of the bushings I got back today and put back on my car.

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I just ordered these today and plan to rent a ball joint press when necessary.

I simply can't stand driving around with that loose rattling noise and feeling. I turn up my subs just to drown it out.
That orientation still doesn't look right to me. Compare your image to this image.

The line through the solid rubber portion of the bushing points at the inside (straighter side) of the casting. The center line of the solid rubber part of your bushings is pointing to the outside (curved) connection point of the control arm.
If you read my entire post you would've seen that I first stated that it looks like it needs to be rotated 90 degrees to be correct.
Yeah I guess I wasn't very clear in my first post, but I was trying to say that it's still wrong and 90 degrees rotation probably makes a difference but not a big enough difference for me to hassle them again. They were already so pissed that I made them redo it. I think if I have to change another bushing or anything to do with those lower control arms again, I'm just going to buy a set of aftermarket MOOG LCAs because it was not worth the trouble here, pressing bushings is a job nobody wants to do. Until I find that special friend lol, then all my problems will be solved.

On another note; my lower ball joints came in today from ebay. I want to do them this weekend but I might have to wait til next week so I can use my dads carport, and his help of course. He also has a torque wrench which is kinda important...LOL I'm gonna rent the ball joint press for FREE ($117 collateral) so I'm pretty stoked about that.

this is the link of the ball joints I ordered, my stupid self thought that it was OEM but the brand name is "O.E." wtf I felt retarded when I found that out.
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Yesterday I changed out my passenger side ball joint, and ripped the boot on the first attempt so I couldn't change the driver side as well, but that was ok because it started to get dark and I was tired lol. I should've just busted out my air impact gun from the start and saved myself time and labor but of course I didn't, til I REALLY needed too.. anyways here are some pics

Before (it was incredibly loose and would move all over even with the rubber boot on)


I have been itching to do a 3x3 ATF drain and fill, but have been lacking the parts to do so. I want to order the filter already but not sure where to order it from. The dealership costs, about $30 for just the filter alone, including all the other orings and bushings/washers, the total comes out to a whopping $50. Idk maybe that's not a lot but it seemed a tad bit high for me. I thhought I could save at least $10ish by getting the filter from somewhere else. But if it's more trouble than it's worth I might just give in to the stealership. I found this on ebay, it says it's not compatible with my car whe I do the vehicle check; however it is the correct part number. what do you guys think? also this is the ONLY one that will ship to hawaii/alaska and is still cheaper than $30, not by much but still cheaper and still OEM.

Just checked about 5 different honda OEM discount online stores and the best deal I could find was at HONDAPARTSNOW for about $33 after shipping costs.

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Hey guys I haven't updated this thread in awhile sorry about the long absence but I had a lot going on and didn't have much time to work on my car myself. I finally found the free time and got around to my last drain and refill of ATF DW-1 and also changed the filter and o-rings all that good stuff. I also ordered some new motor mounts and transmission mounts off ebay.

I was not happy to see when I took out the banjo bolt from the filter housing there seemed to be some hard pieces clogged inside the bolt, which I would assume would've been restricting some of the flow of the transmission fluid. I unclogged it and everything went back together nicely. Here's a some pics of what I was talking about.

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Are those chunks aluminum, steel, or what? Wonder how many more pieces might be coming. Did you check the drained fluid for more pieces?
I'm pretty sure those bits came off of the original transmission filter. As you can see in the picture it kinda just fell apart. I think it came from that because it was the same color and more pieces were breaking off after I had the old filter out.
I've never seen anything like that on the banjo bolt and I've changed the transmission filter 3 times in 190k miles. The important thing you need to know is that the fluid needs to be changed regularly, not so much the filter. You should change out the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches also.
Yes it was actually inside the bolt and I had to dig it out because it was kinda lodged in there. I want to change the pressure switches in just having trouble finding somewhere I can get both for around $70 including shipping.

On another note I did my front and side motor mounts today myself and I gotta say it made a world of a difference. No more bouncing/knocking noises while driving on flat smooth roads anymore, also while in reverse it is almost silent now, as opposed to before where it would make a loud shaking noise and also shake the whole car/steering wheel.

Front mount

Side mount

I was just reading this about TC damage and restricted flow . I'm definitely going to change my pressure switches ASAP I have no idea how long that bolt was clogged up like that. I'm considering adding a trans cooler after reading this.
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Changed my 3rd and 4th oil pressure switches today as they finally arrived in the mail. They were from amazon, and only $56 including shipping. seems to be genuine honda oem switches. Unfortunately my rough shifting is still prevalent, I was thinking maybe it takes a little while for the ECU to adjust or I could be completely wrong...idk. either way, I didn't notice a difference in shifting after changing them and going for a quick drive.

I also changed my drive/serpentine belt yesterday after replacing my power-steering pump bolt, I noticed it was fraying/ripping in one area and it scared me, so I bought a Gates micro-v belt from Napa right away.

Also forgot to mention I did an oil change and am coming close to 80k.
This time I chose to use royal purple 5w 20 motor oil, and I'm gonna stick with this one. Honda OEM filter as well.


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