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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
None of the images are working but welcome to suspension work...you've got to always assume every bushing/, ball joint, end link, etc. needs to be replaced as a good rule of thumb. I'd rather have the parts and return them unused (or just install all new and be done) than make 5 trips for parts as I find new things that need replacing.
Right now that my ball joint is torn I asked them about that part and they said maybe I could just replace the boot or "dust guard" and leave the ball joint in there? Idk I guess I'll see if this end link and bushings take care of the noise and if I still hear it then maybe its the bad ball joint. I wouldn't doubt it because I do believe that I'm only hearing it from the passenger's side mainly. My gf who is mainly my number one passenger says she hears it in the middle? Which leads me to believe it could be my sway bar bushings? I think I might buy those and replace those as well just because I was moving around my sway bar and it can rotate 360° if there weren't any things in the way, what I'm saying is I think its really loose, but visually it looks fine.

Update: a few hours later

I'm pissed to say the very least, waiting at a bus stop while I type this. Napa failed to align the rotation of my compliance bushings the same way the factory bushings were installed. There are no notches or marks on the control arm itself to match up with the arrows on the bushing so the guy who pressed it and whom I was questioning about the rotation looking wrong said its fine and tried to bullshit his way out of it. So he said if there's any problems bring it back, it was already late we were stuck in rush hour traffic so there was no going back. And making it there before closing time at least. Anyways I immediately called my dads friend who was a Honda mechanic for 15 years and he verified that I was correct and that they were WRONG. not only that but I told them not to press the two other bushings that I had bought, but they did it anyways and charged me the extra 80 (40 each) actually 35 four days ago but apparently that changed. I think these ****ing assholes think they can just bullshit me whatever they want with their lack of knowledge and unstable prices. Either way I'm not paying for a job done wrong especially if they're charging me more than what I had agreed to pay for.

I'm gonna take it back tomorrow for them to redo the job that should've been done right in the first place, especially for $160 for a 5-10 minute job. I am not giving them another penny, my only problem now is that I don't know that right points for the arrow marks, I've been looking for pictures online of other control arms with the bushings pressed CORRECTLY to see where those arrow marks are, but haven't been getting much luck. I'm pretty sure I have a good idea of where they are just from memory, but I want to be sure. If I could find a legit official diagram or guide for the arrow marks on the bushings and/or the control arm then I could finish this once and for all and get my shit back together. Also I know that I need to do it, because those guys are stupid and won't even try to make sense of the rotation of the bushing. As soon as I looked at it, I knew right away that something wasn't right about it.

i shouldve just got these http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...=op7b25aqgfkm&cj=1&flexid=viglink&CID=2470763

Here is an example of a pic I found on some singapore honda forums, anyways it shows a perfect diagram of the marks I'm talking about;however my control arm doesn't have mark on it like this picture does so that is why the guy didn't think it needed to go in a certain way

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Nah. They looked great from the front and the output was good. He was just getting rid of it and sold me things for dirt cheap. Hell, the coils I'm on now I got for $150 and they're $850+ brand new. lol
I envy your parts hookups, if I could find quality coilovers for $150 I'd buy them in a heartbeat lol hey I recall you saying your accord was boosted to 470 whp at one point?! How did you achieve such powa???

BTW where are those fogs now?
 

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Pictures ddnt work for me either




Only $5? Guess they looked that bad not to take for 5 bucks
I envy your parts hookups, if I could find quality coilovers for $150 I'd buy them in a heartbeat lol hey I recall you saying your accord was boosted to 470 whp at one point?! How did you achieve such powa???

BTW where are those fogs now?

I mean, they weren't my first choice. I parted out and was going to get springs, but these were cheaper. Plus, he wanted to get rid of em.

And yep. Think it made like 473 or something on 14lbs or 12lbs or something like that. I have the sheet around the the house somewhere. Well, being a 4-cyl has it's advantages. I had a k20 head swap and tuned on k-pro. gt35r turbo and sidewinder manifold and some generic intercooler and piping. That was maybe the 3rd run. Then heard something on the 4th run and shut it down. I was tempted to fully build it but my priorities changed. Reverted back to completely stock and sold all my parts.

I think he still has them. It's just the fogs though. No housing. So just the round glass part.
 

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quikjake,

Here are a couple of pictures of my 6-6 coupe lower control arms from when I had my bushings replaced. This pic shows the entire LCAs


And this pic shows a closeup of the markings that I highlighted with a silver sharpie on both the old and new bushings and control arms before I brought it in to the shop to have them pressed out/in.


Good luck getting them to fix it for you!
 

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I mean, they weren't my first choice. I parted out and was going to get springs, but these were cheaper. Plus, he wanted to get rid of em.

And yep. Think it made like 473 or something on 14lbs or 12lbs or something like that. I have the sheet around the the house somewhere. Well, being a 4-cyl has it's advantages. I had a k20 head swap and tuned on k-pro. gt35r turbo and sidewinder manifold and some generic intercooler and piping. That was maybe the 3rd run. Then heard something on the 4th run and shut it down. I was tempted to fully build it but my priorities changed. Reverted back to completely stock and sold all my parts.

I think he still has them. It's just the fogs though. No housing. So just the round glass part.
I didnt know that about your car. Ive wondered if any other k series heads could be swapped caused i thought about it but didnt find much on it. And i have an auto:thumbsdow so couldnt do all that without ALOT of money
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
quikjake,

Here are a couple of pictures of my 6-6 coupe lower control arms from when I had my bushings replaced. This pic shows the entire LCAs


And this pic shows a closeup of the markings that I highlighted with a silver sharpie on both the old and new bushings and control arms before I brought it in to the shop to have them pressed out/in.


Good luck getting them to fix it for you!
Thank you for the quick reply unfortunately I dropped it off in the morning before I went to work and before I had seen this message. I can tell by looking at it that the bushing needs to be rotated about 90° to be in the correct position, but I had went through so much trouble with these assholes and they were already pissed that I made them redo it for free. So I just said forget it and walked out of there. I don't want to deal with those guys anymore.

Here are the pics of the stupidly pressed bushings from yesterday that was OBVIOUSLY not right just by looking at it.


And here are pics of the bushings I got back today and put back on my car.



 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·

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And here are pics of the bushings I got back today and put back on my car.

That orientation still doesn't look right to me. Compare your image to this image.


The line through the solid rubber portion of the bushing points at the inside (straighter side) of the casting. The center line of the solid rubber part of your bushings is pointing to the outside (curved) connection point of the control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That orientation still doesn't look right to me. Compare your image to this image.


The line through the solid rubber portion of the bushing points at the inside (straighter side) of the casting. The center line of the solid rubber part of your bushings is pointing to the outside (curved) connection point of the control arm.
If you read my entire post you would've seen that I first stated that it looks like it needs to be rotated 90 degrees to be correct.
 

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Yeah, I read that post. But then in your post (#27) you said "And here are pics of the bushings I got back today and put back on my car." and the last pic in that post you had added the markings, but it still shows the wrong orientation. Sorry if I'm just misunderstanding you, but I figured better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah I guess I wasn't very clear in my first post, but I was trying to say that it's still wrong and 90 degrees rotation probably makes a difference but not a big enough difference for me to hassle them again. They were already so pissed that I made them redo it. I think if I have to change another bushing or anything to do with those lower control arms again, I'm just going to buy a set of aftermarket MOOG LCAs because it was not worth the trouble here, pressing bushings is a job nobody wants to do. Until I find that special friend lol, then all my problems will be solved.


On another note; my lower ball joints came in today from ebay. I want to do them this weekend but I might have to wait til next week so I can use my dads carport, and his help of course. He also has a torque wrench which is kinda important...LOL I'm gonna rent the ball joint press for FREE ($117 collateral) so I'm pretty stoked about that.

this is the link of the ball joints I ordered, my stupid self thought that it was OEM but the brand name is "O.E." wtf I felt retarded when I found that out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181518440189?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yesterday I changed out my passenger side ball joint, and ripped the boot on the first attempt so I couldn't change the driver side as well, but that was ok because it started to get dark and I was tired lol. I should've just busted out my air impact gun from the start and saved myself time and labor but of course I didn't, til I REALLY needed too.. anyways here are some pics

Before (it was incredibly loose and would move all over even with the rubber boot on)


After




I have been itching to do a 3x3 ATF drain and fill, but have been lacking the parts to do so. I want to order the filter already but not sure where to order it from. The dealership costs, about $30 for just the filter alone, including all the other orings and bushings/washers, the total comes out to a whopping $50. Idk maybe that's not a lot but it seemed a tad bit high for me. I thhought I could save at least $10ish by getting the filter from somewhere else. But if it's more trouble than it's worth I might just give in to the stealership. I found this on ebay, it says it's not compatible with my car whe I do the vehicle check; however it is the correct part number. what do you guys think? also this is the ONLY one that will ship to hawaii/alaska and is still cheaper than $30, not by much but still cheaper and still OEM.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-OEM-2...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8d42d353&vxp=mtr



Just checked about 5 different honda OEM discount online stores and the best deal I could find was at HONDAPARTSNOW for about $33 after shipping costs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hey guys I haven't updated this thread in awhile sorry about the long absence but I had a lot going on and didn't have much time to work on my car myself. I finally found the free time and got around to my last drain and refill of ATF DW-1 and also changed the filter and o-rings all that good stuff. I also ordered some new motor mounts and transmission mounts off ebay.

I was not happy to see when I took out the banjo bolt from the filter housing there seemed to be some hard pieces clogged inside the bolt, which I would assume would've been restricting some of the flow of the transmission fluid. I unclogged it and everything went back together nicely. Here's a some pics of what I was talking about.



 

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Are those chunks aluminum, steel, or what? Wonder how many more pieces might be coming. Did you check the drained fluid for more pieces?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Are those chunks aluminum, steel, or what? Wonder how many more pieces might be coming. Did you check the drained fluid for more pieces?
I'm pretty sure those bits came off of the original transmission filter. As you can see in the picture it kinda just fell apart. I think it came from that because it was the same color and more pieces were breaking off after I had the old filter out.
 

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I've never seen anything like that on the banjo bolt and I've changed the transmission filter 3 times in 190k miles. The important thing you need to know is that the fluid needs to be changed regularly, not so much the filter. You should change out the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I've never seen anything like that on the banjo bolt and I've changed the transmission filter 3 times in 190k miles. The important thing you need to know is that the fluid needs to be changed regularly, not so much the filter. You should change out the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches also.
Yes it was actually inside the bolt and I had to dig it out because it was kinda lodged in there. I want to change the pressure switches in just having trouble finding somewhere I can get both for around $70 including shipping.

On another note I did my front and side motor mounts today myself and I gotta say it made a world of a difference. No more bouncing/knocking noises while driving on flat smooth roads anymore, also while in reverse it is almost silent now, as opposed to before where it would make a loud shaking noise and also shake the whole car/steering wheel.

Front mount


Side mount


I was just reading this about TC damage and restricted flow http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/Cooler_Circuit.html . I'm definitely going to change my pressure switches ASAP I have no idea how long that bolt was clogged up like that. I'm considering adding a trans cooler after reading this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Changed my 3rd and 4th oil pressure switches today as they finally arrived in the mail. They were from amazon, and only $56 including shipping. seems to be genuine honda oem switches. Unfortunately my rough shifting is still prevalent, I was thinking maybe it takes a little while for the ECU to adjust or I could be completely wrong...idk. either way, I didn't notice a difference in shifting after changing them and going for a quick drive.

I also changed my drive/serpentine belt yesterday after replacing my power-steering pump bolt, I noticed it was fraying/ripping in one area and it scared me, so I bought a Gates micro-v belt from Napa right away.

Also forgot to mention I did an oil change and am coming close to 80k.
This time I chose to use royal purple 5w 20 motor oil, and I'm gonna stick with this one. Honda OEM filter as well.
 

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