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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I'm 17 years old and I started driving my mom's 07 Honda Accord EX about a year ago. (It was my mom's until about 5 years ago, my dad and older brother drove it before me). It has the K24a8. My brother drove it pretty hard everywhere, it just crossed over 285k miles. Some of the problems I'm having are listed below.

1.) Not shifting properly when the check engine light is on
Whenever the check engine light comes on, I have to really feather the throttle for it not to get hung. Whenever I'm driving and press the throttle, it revs up like it is hitting a limiter, even though its only at about 2800 - 2900 rpms. If I reduce speed and try again, it does the same thing and does not increase speed. Il'l link a video.
When I got the code read at AutoZone, it just said the car was running lean. I didn't the light in this specific video checked, because when I pulled in the parking lot, the light went off. Also, another thing it does is hesitate when pulling away from stop signs or lights. I was told that this could be resolved with fuel treatment/injector cleaner, but nothing has changed since doing that.

Note: Normally the check engine light pops on when I'm cruising at about 70 - 80 mph in 5th gear. The revs are normally at around 2k.

Video:

2.) Most Likely Related Clutch-like smell coming from drivers side after a drive
Ive noticed this smell years before anything started happening to the car, but it probably is still related.

3.) Stalling when I put the car in gear
My driveway is at a downward slope, and it started stalling there at first when I put it back in drive. Now, if I make a quick run to the store, if I come back to the car within around 20 minutes, after the car cranks, it sits in the higher rev range for a little while (about 2k). After I let it idle down and put it in gear, the engagement is very rough and the revs drop to about 500 and the idle is rough for a few seconds.

4. Unstable Idle
When idling, it bounces up and down. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere, which may explain the "too lean" CEL. It normally on does this when cold, when sitting at stop signs or lights, its normal.

5.) Taking more turns to crank.
Recently I noticed that it's taking longer and longer to crank my vehicle. And by that I mean it's turning over more times before it actually starts. The starter has been replaced previously.

6.) A/C works sometimes.
It's gotten really hot and all of a sudden I have no A/C. Sometimes when I come out from school, it just doesn't come on. Normally it comes back on after a few days of it not working. I always turn off my A/C before cranking and before turning off my vehicle. Also, I noticed a rough engagement of the A/C when Im idling. Most of the time, I wait until the engine speed is higher (when driving) to turn on A/C because of this.

7.) Interior Lights Flickering

The lights on the center stack (HVAC and Radio controls, not the radio screen itself) flicker at night when the headlights are on. Usually a good hit to the dash straightens that out though. 馃槀
 

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Lots of issues.

The flickering lights to me suggest bad connections at the Battery. Be sure you have a solid battery connections, make sure you have clean and tight battery connections. Also verify ground cables to the body. Especially from the engine to the body and the negative cable to the body.

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Clean the air sensor & the throttle body. Get a top end cleaning done, Walmart has the best price (if you trust them) it is called an injection service. Make sure the engine is hot before the service, & right after go out and floor the gas pedal several times (watch the white smoke (carbon) in the rear view mirror). Change the transmission fluid 3 times with driving in-between, look up the procedure on this site, then change the in line trans. filter in the engine bay. As said above, take off the air hose connected to the air box, stretch it out & look for any cracks, etc. If you need to buy a new one the generic ones on Amazon work OK. Corrosion can happen in the middle of the battery cable, slit the jacket, inspect, wrap back up with elect. tape. A new cable can be bought @ Walmart. Have the car battery load tested, alternator checked. If you ever need a new starter or alternator have the old ones rebuilt. If it is the 51R battery, you may want to do the upgrade to the V6 battery (group 24F or a 35). Your mileage is getting to the point where things are wearing out. Have the sway bars end links checked for wear. Change the power steering fluid. When changing the coolant use a coolant made for Hondas, Honda blue, Zerex Asian, etc. Have the guides on the timing chain inspected, change out the tensioner if never done. Since you will have the valve cover off, do a valve adjustment. The AC compressor may be going out or it may need a recharge, a independent shop will be able to tell you. If you feel a vibration when the AC cuts on, most likely you have worn engine mounts (if need to replace oem only). Has the transmission mount ever been replaced ? - https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Mass-Air-Flow-Throttle-Body-Single-Use-Cleaner-Twin-Pack-Kit/36755294
 

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How old is the intake air filter? A dirty filter can mess with the MAF sensor. Cleaning the MAF is a necessity but it does depend on filtered air.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Clean the air sensor & the throttle body. Get a top end cleaning done, Walmart has the best price (if you trust them) it is called an injection service. Make sure the engine is hot before the service, & right after go out and floor the gas pedal several times (watch the white smoke (carbon) in the rear view mirror). Change the transmission fluid 3 times with driving in-between, look up the procedure on this site, then change the in line trans. filter in the engine bay. As said above, take off the air hose connected to the air box, stretch it out & look for any cracks, etc. If you need to buy a new one the generic ones on Amazon work OK. Corrosion can happen in the middle of the battery cable, slit the jacket, inspect, wrap back up with elect. tape. A new cable can be bought @ Walmart. Have the car battery load tested, alternator checked. If you ever need a new starter or alternator have the old ones rebuilt. If it is the 51R battery, you may want to do the upgrade to the V6 battery (group 24F or a 35). Your mileage is getting to the point where things are wearing out. Have the sway bars end links checked for wear. Change the power steering fluid. When changing the coolant use a coolant made for Hondas, Honda blue, Zerex Asian, etc. Have the guides on the timing chain inspected, change out the tensioner if never done. Since you will have the valve cover off, do a valve adjustment. The AC compressor may be going out or it may need a recharge, a independent shop will be able to tell you. If you feel a vibration when the AC cuts on, most likely you have worn engine mounts (if need to replace oem only). Has the transmission mount ever been replaced ? - https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Mass-Air-Flow-Throttle-Body-Single-Use-Cleaner-Twin-Pack-Kit/36755294
Thanks for your help. The mounts to both the engine and transmission have never been replaced. Only the basic maintenance has been done throughout the life span of the car that I am aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How old is the intake air filter? A dirty filter can mess with the MAF sensor. Cleaning the MAF is a necessity but it does depend on filtered air.
Everything on the car is original excepts the oil (of course). Transmission fluid has been added but not changed yet.
Will clean the filters this weekend and update. Thanks for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lots of issues.

The flickering lights to me suggest bad connections at the Battery. Be sure you have a solid battery connections, make sure you have clean and tight battery connections. Also verify ground cables to the body. Especially from the engine to the body and the negative cable to the body.

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Ok, will check this weekend and update. Thx!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey everyone, I'm 17 years old and I started driving my mom's 07 Honda Accord EX about a year ago. (It was my mom's until about 5 years ago, my dad and older brother drove it before me). It has the K24a8. My brother drove it pretty hard everywhere, it just crossed over 285k miles. Some of the problems I'm having are listed below.

1.) Not shifting properly when the check engine light is on
Whenever the check engine light comes on, I have to really feather the throttle for it not to get hung. Whenever I'm driving and press the throttle, it revs up like it is hitting a limiter, even though its only at about 2800 - 2900 rpms. If I reduce speed and try again, it does the same thing and does not increase speed. Il'l link a video.
When I got the code read at AutoZone, it just said the car was running lean. I didn't the light in this specific video checked, because when I pulled in the parking lot, the light went off. Also, another thing it does is hesitate when pulling away from stop signs or lights. I was told that this could be resolved with fuel treatment/injector cleaner, but nothing has changed since doing that.

Note: Normally the check engine light pops on when I'm cruising at about 70 - 80 mph in 5th gear. The revs are normally at around 2k.

Video:

2.) Most Likely Related Clutch-like smell coming from drivers side after a drive
Ive noticed this smell years before anything started happening to the car, but it probably is still related.

3.) Stalling when I put the car in gear
My driveway is at a downward slope, and it started stalling there at first when I put it back in drive. Now, if I make a quick run to the store, if I come back to the car within around 20 minutes, after the car cranks, it sits in the higher rev range for a little while (about 2k). After I let it idle down and put it in gear, the engagement is very rough and the revs drop to about 500 and the idle is rough for a few seconds.

4. Unstable Idle
When idling, it bounces up and down. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere, which may explain the "too lean" CEL. It normally on does this when cold, when sitting at stop signs or lights, its normal.

5.) Taking more turns to crank.
Recently I noticed that it's taking longer and longer to crank my vehicle. And by that I mean it's turning over more times before it actually starts. The starter has been replaced previously.

6.) A/C works sometimes.
It's gotten really hot and all of a sudden I have no A/C. Sometimes when I come out from school, it just doesn't come on. Normally it comes back on after a few days of it not working. I always turn off my A/C before cranking and before turning off my vehicle. Also, I noticed a rough engagement of the A/C when Im idling. Most of the time, I wait until the engine speed is higher (when driving) to turn on A/C because of this.

7.) Interior Lights Flickering

The lights on the center stack (HVAC and Radio controls, not the radio screen itself) flicker at night when the headlights are on. Usually a good hit to the dash straightens that out though. 馃槀

Ok guys so I got a CEL update. I went back to AutoZone since the light came back on
The autozone paper gave out:

P0171 - "System too lean"
P1009 - "VTC Advance Malfunction"
P2646 - "Rocker Arm Oil Control Valve (A) Stuck On or Off
P0139 - "O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
and then it has
"61-1 Control Unit Low Voltage" (I've seen a video of one person with the same car and engine having the same issues as me. I think this is my main culprit, for the bucking anyway)

Also: The oil pressure light came on today as I was making my way to school. It normally flashes on when I let my foot off the gas and slow down that way. I pulled into a parking lot, and checked my oil just to be sure and it was good. Once I cranked the car back up it flashed a couple times as I was driving but went back off immediately after.
 

Prefers to shift his own gears
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The P2646 was one of the codes I got when I had to replace the spool valve.

For the P0139, you could try to clear the codes. It may not come back. Otherwise you may need a new O2 sensor.
 

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And the plot thickens

Low oil pressure is nothing to ignore.

Let's start at the top

P0171 system too lean

This one is either a vacuum leak or an air leak.

Check the tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body for cracks. Replace it if there are any.

Vacuum leaks you can sometimes hear as a hissing sound. Broken or missing vacuum hoses are the usual suspects.


P1009

This one is normally because by low oil level, worn out dirty oil, or clogged VTC screens. Basically low oil pressure (sounds familiar with oil pressure light on).

When this happens the car will not accelerate and is very sluggish.

P2646

Actuator issue on the VTec system again mostly related to low oil pressure caused by low oil level or worn out oil (again sounds familiar with oil pressure light on).

P0139

Slow response from the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter. Most likely a bad sensor, but fixed the P0171 first and see what happens after that.


To me, it sounds like you have an oil pressure issue. I know nothing on the maintenance of this car. First thing to try is replace the oil and filter with new quality parts.

New oil filter and 4.2 quarts of 5w-20. Then see what your oil light does and the P1009.

If there is no change. You need to determine WHY the oil light is coming on. It could be lots of things, not any of them good.

1. Worn oil pump
2. Worn main bearings
3. Clogged oil pump pickup screen
4. Bad oil pressure sending unit

The way you determine if the oil pressure is ok and the sending unit is bad is to test with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. If the mechanical guage reads correctly then it is a bad sending unit. If it reads low, you have an oil pressure problem.


Oh and the power error, do not worry about it. Most likely old data, unless you are having battery and charging issues as well. Always start your troubleshooting with making sure the battery is good and the connections at the battery are good.


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Ok guys so I got a CEL update. I went back to AutoZone since the light came back on
The autozone paper gave out:

P0171 - "System too lean"
P1009 - "VTC Advance Malfunction"
P2646 - "Rocker Arm Oil Control Valve (A) Stuck On or Off
P0139 - "O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
and then it has
"61-1 Control Unit Low Voltage" (I've seen a video of one person with the same car and engine having the same issues as me. I think this is my main culprit, for the bucking anyway)

Also: The oil pressure light came on today as I was making my way to school. It normally flashes on when I let my foot off the gas and slow down that way. I pulled into a parking lot, and checked my oil just to be sure and it was good. Once I cranked the car back up it flashed a couple times as I was driving but went back off immediately after.
You need to be checking the oil level weekly as the 2.4 engine can start to consume it as the engine gets up in mileage. How much are you adding between changes ? Subbing 1 qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil for a qt. of oil when changing will help to keep the oil return passageways open (no more than 1qt. per change as it thins out the oil). Change the PCV valve if never done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And the plot thickens

Low oil pressure is nothing to ignore.

Let's start at the top

P0171 system too lean

This one is either a vacuum leak or an air leak.

Check the tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body for cracks. Replace it if there are any.

Vacuum leaks you can sometimes hear as a hissing sound. Broken or missing vacuum hoses are the usual suspects.


P1009

This one is normally because by low oil level, worn out dirty oil, or clogged VTC screens. Basically low oil pressure (sounds familiar with oil pressure light on).

When this happens the car will not accelerate and is very sluggish.

P2646

Actuator issue on the VTec system again mostly related to low oil pressure caused by low oil level or worn out oil (again sounds familiar with oil pressure light on).

P0139

Slow response from the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter. Most likely a bad sensor, but fixed the P0171 first and see what happens after that.


To me, it sounds like you have an oil pressure issue. I know nothing on the maintenance of this car. First thing to try is replace the oil and filter with new quality parts.

New oil filter and 4.2 quarts of 5w-20. Then see what your oil light does and the P1009.

If there is no change. You need to determine WHY the oil light is coming on. It could be lots of things, not any of them good.

1. Worn oil pump
2. Worn main bearings
3. Clogged oil pump pickup screen
4. Bad oil pressure sending unit

The way you determine if the oil pressure is ok and the sending unit is bad is to test with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. If the mechanical guage reads correctly then it is a bad sending unit. If it reads low, you have an oil pressure problem.


Oh and the power error, do not worry about it. Most likely old data, unless you are having battery and charging issues as well. Always start your troubleshooting with making sure the battery is good and the connections at the battery are good.


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The plot has definitely thickened.

This weekend I decided to go ahead change the spark plugs (since it had been about 80k miles since the last change, and its the only thing i can afford to do at the moment). There was oil all over the passenger side of the engine bay, and it was everywhere. All over the power steering pump, fender, and even the alternator (surprisingly nothing is fried). I took it to a local mechanic and thinks the oil is leaking from the spool valve, and also from the another filter located behind the power steering pump. He went to drain what was left of the existing oil and very little came out (kind of embarrassing tbh). I have to work this week so I cant have any downtime. I've just topped it off until Thursday when I can get it back over there and hopefully they can take care of the leaks.

I can easily get a spool valve from amazon or carparts.com, but do you (or anyone reading) maybe know a part number for the filter behind the power steering pump? I've been looking but I don't really know what exactly to search for.
 

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That filter is just a metal screen, you normally clean it and put the cover back on. You can replace it, it not that expensive. The solenoid usually is what is leaking, normally replace the o-ring.




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