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Discussion Starter #1
The retaining "bolt" that holds the spare tire in place is frozen, apparently because it's rusted. The little "wings" on the plastic cap are completely broken off now (from trying to loosen it using tools) and there's pretty much nothing left to gain purchase on to twist it. I did manage to get a pipe wrench onto it and turn it about a full turn the other day, but that resulted in more of the cap breaking and now I can't get a grip on it with anything.

I don't have a dremel or similar to cut into it - any tips on how to get this stupid thing off without destroying the "nut" portion that's in the trunk? I have a replacement retaining bolt to install that's like new, and would imagine that there will be rust in the nut component on the bottom of the trunk. But, I want to be sure I can get the bolt out without wrecking the threads on the nut piece so that I can install the new retaining bolt afterward.

Any tips are welcomed.

Thanks!
 

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8th Gen Believer
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Try some thin oil, I forgot the name of it dammit. Super thin machine oil, the viscosity of water, that will penetrate rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You mean like a 3-in-1 or sewing machine type of oil? I could try that, if I can get the tip of the oil bottle down under the cap to hit the bolt (so it will run down the threads).
 

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Cruising in Montana
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Get some PB Blaster like this. Commonly available, but make sure it's the penetrating oil; they make many other sprays too. Squirt it on, wait an hour or so then try to remove it. Wiggle the part back & forth, up & down etc. as you're turning.

You could also completely destroy the plastic knob part and possibly, maybe remove the tire with the steel post still stuck in. This would at least give you some room to work. I don't know if it will work, perhaps there's a steel disk under the plastic knob that's wider than the center bore hole of the spare.

The local rental store probably has a hand-held grinder, get a cutoff disk for it & you're set.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The screw cap is no longer "grabbable". And it's basically still tight. I have PB Blaster and have never had success with it helping to loosen anything (and it's the penetrating one). Additionally, there really isn't much room to get AT the part that's seized.

I have a feeling I'm going to need to figure out how to basically destroy the screw cap, pull the tire, then clamp the bolt with vice grips and twist it out.
 

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Although you're issue is a PITA at least the replacement screw cap or spare tire adapter (74651-S2X-003) shouldn't be a killer. Prices, shipping, local, etc. vary but it was $3.43 at Bernardi. Good luck if you have to "have at it".

The bolt is 74651-S2X-003 ($2.93) if you need to replace it too!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Although you're issue is a PITA at least the replacement screw cap or spare tire adapter (74651-S2X-003) shouldn't be a killer. Prices, shipping, local, etc. vary but it was $3.43 at Bernardi. Good luck if you have to "have at it".
Already have the replacement... Just need to be able to install it. :)
 

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Sorry I don't have any great solutions for you. It's good to see that you're prepared with the part. Since you've got that really, really solid looking piece of plastic or whatever "cap" in hand, you can appreciate that it won't be easy to cut it out. I don't think a chisel would faze it. But it seems like you're going to have to get the tire out in order to proceed further. Ultimately you're still going to have to break the bolt loose from the nut in mount on the trunk floor. But with the tire gone you'll at least have some room to work.

Reading this thread made me curious to look at your issue (that adapter cap is impressively well made!) and reminded me that I hadn't checked my compact spare in a "few years". It was down to 20lb and it's supposed to be 60lb. I wasn't really surprised. Every time I've ever checked a compact spare it has been very under inflated. Obviously I should check the spare more often.

I'll take this opportunity to suggest that if it's been a "few years" since you checked your spare that you probably should at your earliest convenience - it's probably underinflated. And when you check the spare (yes, you have to take it out) put some anti-seize or at least oil on the mounting bolt/nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, the bolt is out. It was so corroded that it just twisted and broke. And, there's no removing the stud either because it's just a rusted mess.

The rim of the spare is also rusted, so the spare now needs to be replaced.
 

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Cruising in Montana
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Can you cut the bolt off flat so that you can drill in to the bolt? Starting small and using successively larger drill bits, I think you might be able to get it out this way. Stop just before you hit the threads in the nut, then beat on it with a punch/chisel to push what remains of the bolt in towards the center. Clean up the threads with a (probably metric) tap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Considering the current state is that the spare itself needs to be replaced, and isn't rattling around making any noise, no further action at this time. What you're describing isn't unreasonable to do, IF it ends up being worth the effort. Not sure how much longer the car will stay in service as of now (although at least another year is likely).
 

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Byron Bozeman

Apparently, the people answering this problem have NEVER had this problem. I first had this problem on a Honda Accord. (I AM AN EXPERIENCED MECHANIC). FYI, the hold down screw will NOT
unscrew. It must be rusted on the bottom where you can't see it. So, I was able to unscrew it a little and spray WD-40 for the first hour. Then I tried penetrating oil. I oiled the screw and using a LARGE cresent wrench I rocked the screw back and forth many times. It came out after two and a half hours.

Much later I had the same problem on a Civic. After an hour and a half of oiling and rocking back and forth; all progress came to a halt. I could turn the screw down; but not up pass my progress
point. So I raised the screw up and hacksawed it off right below the wing nut. (Thank goodness I was in my driveway doing this).
After I aired up the flat spare tire I put it back and clamped the top of the screw with an old pair of small vice grips and just screwed it down with the pliers still on it.


p.s., DO NOT USE A CUTTING TORCH AS HAS BEEN SUGGESTED. THE GAS TANK IS RIGHT BELOW THIS TIRE.
 

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If Honda didnt make leaky trunks on the 06,07 this would never be happening. Mostly all of the 07's I looked at had evidence of water in that tire well. Some even had residual water still looming in the well.

Mine leaked since I got the car, then after I got my accident fixed (rear) it never leaked again.
 

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Thanks to all who participated on this forum thread.

In case someone reading this thread without a rusty '07 Civic spare well and bolt but still having trouble removing the spin-off nut, I thought I should make my first post to a car forum with a success story.

My spinoff nut also was stubbornly refusing to budge after the first few loosening turns; and little or no progress was made turning it with a crescent wrench, up, down, and then up again. I figured it may be stripped and thought I might overcome that by lifting on the tire (which I could do since I turned the nut a few times) while turning with the wrench. That failed, so I ended up reading this forum thread, and accepted I probably would have to cut the bolt.

But then came the success story: I then tried again lifting much harder on the tire while turning the nut with the crescent wrench, and the nut popped off after about one turn. It's possible that simply lifting the tire with much leverage would have done it without the wrench. The bolt has only 8 or so turns, but the top couple inches of the bolt are smooth -- the opposite of what I expected. So the nut may have spun off completely but may have been stuck on the smooth part of the bolt and would have been removed with any kind of lifting or leveraging up. After some silicone spray, maybe it will be easier next time -- I intend to check in a couple weeks.
.
 
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