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A-w-e-s-o-m-e

:jawdrop: Excellent work, Dev. You should be very proud for your accomplishment. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I read all the posts, even those with terms I have no idea what they mean. Your work is amazing. And the fact that you shared every step with us and you took pictures is just the icing on the cake.

I dropped a message for you. Can you help me with something?
 

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Man vs Door Part 1 -
In my opinion, the single most important process that I am going to do during this entire install is the treatment of the front doors. All doors have 3 main areas to treat.
1) Outer panel - This is the panel that is closest to the outside world. This panel requires extra attention, as it usually is the most prone to vibration because it is so flat and smooth. It also bears the brunt of the speaker's backwave. It will be treated with 2 layers of deadener, and 1 layer of closed cell foam. Directly behind the speaker will be treated with 4 layers of deadener, and 3 layers of closed cell foam. This is to prevent the backwave of the speaker bouncing off of the panel and running back into the rear of the speaker, creating distortion.
2) Outer/inner panel - Say what? This is the side of the inner panel that faces outwards towards the outer panel. Confusing terminology. Anyways, this will be a 1 layer of deadening and 1 layer of closed cell foam.
3) Inner/inner panel - This is the part of the panel that faces you when take the trim panel off. It has several challenges. Firstly, it has lots of wires and rods traveling in and out of the inner cavity of the door. The nice thing about the Honda is that the rods are self contained and slide back and forth inside sheathing. I will simply try and create as good as a seal as possible over these wires/rods. The other challenge is the massive holes in the inner panel. These will have to be sealed to be airtight. This is so extremely important. I will be using roofing flashing with deadening to seal the holes. In my opinion, a speaker install without sealing these holes is absolutely worthless. Sealing these will allow the door to act as a cabinet, improving every single one of its characteristics.

Door Trim Panel Removal -
There is a little panel with a small tab behind the door handle. Push the tab down with a small screwdriver and flip the panel out.

Unscrew the 3 screws behind the door handle.



There is a rubber cover covering the next screw in the door rest. Carefully get something under the edge (I used a dental pick) and pull up. Its only held in by double stick tape.




Under the door rest, there is another panel to remove. I just used my fingers. Under that is the last screw that needs removal.



So the trick is to start at the bottom, and work your way to the sides. Pull each pin. I used a trim removal tool and it helped a lot and I didn't break any pins while doing it. Be careful, as the first few pins will pop back in if you do not keep outward pressure on the door. After a long WWF match with my door, I was greeted by this. Success.



The factory "seal" needed to die. Here is its rotting carcass.



I win. Prepare for deadening.

Thank you for posting these pics since I cannot find anything on these from 'pros.' I had an '05 Accord and now I have a 2010 LX-P. I took out my systems from my last car (I took that apart a million times!) and I have the exact same system (save for head unit) and it looks like everything should fit fine. I hope the settings on my amps still work well with my new head unit.

On my 2005, I was able to route the tweeter wires to the crossovers from the dash, but with these on the doors (I like them better there), how can I route the wires? Does the wire harness have high and low wires or just front wires? Of you routed wires to a CO, where did your route them to. In the '05, it was a pain, but easier to route them through the passenger door, but gave up trying for the driver's side.

I miss my system as I had it tuned perfectly and the sound was on point! I believe in quality over loudness...
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Thank you for posting these pics since I cannot find anything on these from 'pros.' I had an '05 Accord and now I have a 2010 LX-P. I took out my systems from my last car (I took that apart a million times!) and I have the exact same system (save for head unit) and it looks like everything should fit fine. I hope the settings on my amps still work well with my new head unit.

On my 2005, I was able to route the tweeter wires to the crossovers from the dash, but with these on the doors (I like them better there), how can I route the wires? Does the wire harness have high and low wires or just front wires? Of you routed wires to a CO, where did your route them to. In the '05, it was a pain, but easier to route them through the passenger door, but gave up trying for the driver's side.

I miss my system as I had it tuned perfectly and the sound was on point! I believe in quality over loudness...
So if I understand your question -

You're wondering how to route wires into the doors?
I routed the wires through the boot using a wire puller - basically a flexible metal thingy that I routed from the inside of the door, through the boot, then into the interior of the car. I then taped wire to the tip of the puller (now protruding into the car) then pulled it back into the door. I used windex as lube. Some ppl use KY since its water soluble also.

I didn't mess with the stock wiring harness at all. Only wires I tapped into were illumination, steering wheel control, and remote on.
 

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I'm back with an overdue and promised update. I purchased the fiberglass enclosure custom fabricated by DevinKato. Based on recommendations from DK and my installer I loaded it with a driver from JL Audio. The factory "sub" is in a box in my storage locker and the vacant hole makes an excellent port.



Slave to brand loyalty that I am, I decided to power it with an amp unit from the same manufacturer*.



Not yet pictured is a JL component set including door speakers and windshield-mounted tweeters

Everything seems to be working fabulously. The first day I had it home, the lowest settings were rattling the neighbor's dishes. Not only did I need to back off the gain setting on the amp, I also had to back off the subwoofer output (-3) from the factory headunit. Even with the amp's control knob all the way down I can still annoy the fiancee when she's riding shotgun.

Next up is to replace the factory drivers on the rear deck with something anything that can keep up with the rest of the system.

- P

*I forgot all the model numbers. I'll let y'all know in about two weeks when I can retrieve the empty boxes from the storage locker.
 

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omg, i want you to be my audio guy lol. even if you ARE 700 miles away
 

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HEEM
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I have a question. how did you get the rear deck out?Im trying to figure that out so i can Dynamat that section for my new Coaxles.
 

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sick thread :) been drooling for 16 pages!!!
 

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Dats da way to do...
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I would honestly go with the amp before you get components. The stock speakers (non-premium), can take a LOT of power, and get really loud. I can only imagine that the premium ones can take as much, and sound better.

I've never heard a set of components sound good just off of head unit power, so I would definitely look into the amp first and foremost.


what was the purpose of running the ipod hookup to the stereo instead of using the AUX jack?

and

How did you hook the after market radio up and bypass the stock radio?


thanks
i know this is an old thread but im trying to do the same setup

is the OEM factory head unit still functional and are u able to use the steering wheel controls with the aftermarket headunit.?

how did u wire the aftermarket headunit to the oem? did u use a harness or did u jsut straight up splice into the oem wiring and which wires did u splice into since the aftermarket headunit comes with a harness.

do u have any pictures of how you place the headunit in the lower compartments?
 

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Is your project done or what?? You never posted final pics of all the audio mods!!!

and thanks for the pics on removing the Head Unit... im installing an Alpine Type R @ 600RMS =)
 

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Hey guys, how did you pull the power cable for the amps? Did you use an existing grommet (where?) or did you make a hole in the firewall (where?).

Thanks
 

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Dats da way to do...
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theres an open gromet right above the gas pedal when look under neath the dash. just pop it right out. i used that gromet for my foglights.
 

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Completely amazing work by everyone in this tread. If you have not auditioned a jbl ms8, do so NOW. It totally changed the system. I actually wake up excite to drive to work b/c I get to listen to the system :)

A question: Has anyone experience a buzz due to the DRL? My installer tried moving the xovers with no effect. I may have to pull the fuse.
 

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Completely amazing work by everyone in this tread. If you have not auditioned a jbl ms8, do so NOW. It totally changed the system. I actually wake up excite to drive to work b/c I get to listen to the system :)

A question: Has anyone experience a buzz due to the DRL? My installer tried moving the xovers with no effect. I may have to pull the fuse.
I'll be adding this to my list of candidates for a future processor install. My shop is vehemently against the JL Audio CleanSweep and had suggested I get the Audison Bit-one. Anyone have any thoughts on the Bit-one?
 

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I am the Stig
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Can't understand all the negativity with the clean sweap, it's been stable and sounds fantastic on my system for nearly 4 years. It has worked flawlessly and I have heavily modded the headlights and some other electrical components without any issues. The key is adjusting the gain on the amps to compensate for any buzzing.
 

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The CleanSweep really shouldn't be compared to MS-8 or Bitone. It is a completely different system.
True. They MS8 (and I assume the bit1) does everything the cleansweep does and about 10x more. After you setup your system, you wear a set of bidirection headphones (but they are mics) and it EQs and time aligns your system. I had FABULOUS results. Look I told my wife if she didnt hear a difference I would return it at her request. Even she was impressed and doesnt really care for these things.

The Cleansweep (or any LOC) is NOT needed in this car if you have premium sound and an amp that takes the correct input (JL amp and a few others) I had RCA from the factory HU going directly into my HD900 amp. Sound Loud and Clean just lacked imaging and detail (which the MS8 fixed).
 
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