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Anyone know what to expect in terms of discount off of the MSRP? Thinking about getting my wife an EXL Nav model.

If they are too proud on the pricing I will go for the Acura TLX.

Thanks

MODERATOR EDIT: Check out member @S2k_Dude most excellent spreadsheet here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1w4JoIWZz8qDgfXzgyky2dTJQV0TXRQCMm8Gp3X_IdrI/edit#gid=0

You can also post COMPLETE information in the "Price Paid" thread here:

https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/241-10th-generation/490145-10th-gen-accord-price-paid-thread-post-price-data-only.html

that means yes, you actually bought the car. Information that is not complete will be deleted, as we are trying to cut down on the dozens of "Bro where u from?" posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right....I've heard $800ish. With that said, dealerships reduce the discount on new models when they first come out. My dealer is telling me MSRP with no discount.
 

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Anyone know what to expect in terms of discount off of the MSRP? Thinking about getting my wife an EXL Nav model.

If they are too proud on the pricing I will go for the Acura TLX.

Thanks
Depends when you want it. Wait until December, and they will be $3,000 off.
 

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Brand new cars are rarely discounted as soon as they come out. You have to wait a number of months until production is up and dealers have cars sitting on their lots.
 

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Don't drink and drive
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When I bought mom's car, we went in as soon as they were released. MSRP was 21k. I told them I'm here to get it for 18, and that's what we got it for. It depends on what model you're buying and what the current demand is. With Accords, I'd assume the demand will be fairly high for the first 2-3 months. It never hurts to try. The worst they can say is no.
 

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Honda Nation
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People need to learn how to haggle the right way.

Make your offer, whatever it is, but make your offer OUT THE DOOR - including tax, title, ALL dealer and doc fees. That way they don't try to slide extra fees into your final invoice. When you negotiate just the price of the car, you open the dealer to throw whatever insipid fees they want at you.

So, for my Accord when I bought it, it stickered for $29,500. I offered $25,000 OUT THE DOOR - including all dealer fees and tax. We settled at $27k, which is what my goal was.

Start low, even if they get all bent out of shape at how insulting your low ball offer is. It's a business transaction, take all emotion out of it and be a stone cold negotiator. Don't fall for the salesman's lines and BS about whatever - stick to your guns, and if you can't get the price you want be ready and willing to walk out and go to another dealer, or home.

But make sure you give them your contact information - when you do, tell them when they're ready to sell you that car at your price to give you a call. 9/10 times they'll have you sit back down and get a lot closer to your price.
 

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Negotiating based on an OTD price is fine... but not super helpful on a forum - where fees and taxes vary by location. In some states, you pay 0% sales tax on a new car; other states, you may pay 7.5%. On a $30K car, this can be over $2,000 difference. So, saying you should pay XXX OTD may not be the best way to try to help someone get the best price.
 

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People need to learn how to haggle the right way.

Start low, even if they get all bent out of shape at how insulting your low ball offer is. It's a business transaction, take all emotion out of it and be a stone cold negotiator. Don't fall for the salesman's lines and BS about whatever - stick to your guns, and if you can't get the price you want be ready and willing to walk out and go to another dealer, or home.
"$50 never killed anybody." - Car buyer in the cult movie, Used Cars





Negotiating based on an OTD price is fine... but not super helpful on a forum - where fees and taxes vary by location. In some states, you pay 0% sales tax on a new car; other states, you may pay 7.5%. On a $30K car, this can be over $2,000 difference. So, saying you should pay XXX OTD may not be the best way to try to help someone get the best price.
Which is why, kind sir, you would be speaking with authority if you clicked on your UserCP and updated your location, so that it appears under your username. Otherwise, we will of course assume you are posting from Equatorial Guinea..
 

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Honda Nation
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Negotiating based on an OTD price is fine... but not super helpful on a forum - where fees and taxes vary by location. In some states, you pay 0% sales tax on a new car; other states, you may pay 7.5%. On a $30K car, this can be over $2,000 difference. So, saying you should pay XXX OTD may not be the best way to try to help someone get the best price.
I understand that. Those who pay zero tax should know that, and adjust accordingly. Every dealer has fees too, and they're all different, but when I give them my OTD I don't care what their fees are. I also don't care what I pay for the car. I just care about the out the door price. Which is what you need to negotiate.
 

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Gearless
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I understand that. Those who pay zero tax should know that, and adjust accordingly. Every dealer has fees too, and they're all different, but when I give them my OTD I don't care what their fees are. I also don't care what I pay for the car. I just care about the out the door price. Which is what you need to negotiate.
I ask for them to break down the price and give an OTD price to compare with other dealers to see who is trying to rip me off the most and where.

Documentation Fee
Delivery Fee
Processing Fee
Wheel Locks
Paint Protection
etc.
 

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I think it is best to wait for the salesman to enter the restroom then pistol whip him and put the fear of Tom Cruise into him. He will get you a better price because fear is a good motivator. Make sure you straighten his tie as you pick him up off the floor- this will confuse him and give you the negotiating advantage, or so I've read on internet forums focusing on negotiation.
 

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People need to learn how to haggle the right way. Make your offer, whatever it is, but make your offer OUT THE DOOR.
That's right! Leave the show room and make your offer while standing "out the door" in the parking lot. That way they'll think you are ready to walk and will give you their best price right away. Works for me every time. :laugh
 

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Honda Nation
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That's right! Leave the show room and make your offer price while standing "out the door" in the parking lot. That way they'll think you are ready to walk and will give you their best price right away. Works for me every time. :laugh
LMAO!!! :devil
 

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Honda Nation
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I think it is best to wait for the salesman to enter the restroom then pistol whip him and put the fear of Tom Cruise into him. He will get you a better price because fear is a good motivator. Make sure you straighten his tie as you pick him up off the floor- this will confuse him and give you the negotiating advantage, or so I've read on internet forums focusing on negotiation.
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
 

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I think it's easiest to get email confirmation on OTD pricing. Forward the email to other dealers until you get what you want. Most salesman keep numbers on napkins and cards for a reason.

You could always call a broker too?
 

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Most importantly be an educated buyer. Know how much cars are selling for in your area by using sites like True car.

Know what finance deals are being offered if you plan to finance. Although 0% is tempting, it's not always cheaper long term. When I recently looked at F-150 trucks, the finance and rebates were all over the place. The rebates varied depending on which Ford Finance product you chose. 0% got one rebate, 1.9% got a higher rebate, and so on. If you paid cash, it was a different rebate amount. If you used outside financing, it was yet a different rebate. So if you plan to pay off your loan early, taking a higher interest rate but larger rebate, may actually save you money. You literally need a spreadsheet to calculate total cost over the loan.

We did this with our 2017 Rav4. Instead of 0% financing, we took a higher rebate upfront (paid less for the vehicle) but the loan was 2% interest instead of 0%. We already paid a huge chunk of the loan off and will have it paid off in less than 2 years. Long term it was cheaper for us to take the higher rebate upfront than 0% financing.

When I purchased my 2017 LX, I negotiated an Out The Door price which included a $199 dealer fee (sales tax not collected by dealer). Used Honda finance at 1.9% and paid it off the first month. It cost me $25 in minimum finance interest fee. The finance guy tried to scare me by stating I would incur a penalty if I paid it off before 3 months. This is because the dealer won't get a kickback if the loan is paid off before 3 months. I called Honda Finance about this. There is no penalty, just a minimum finance interest fee of $25. The Honda rep said she hears this a lot.

Now if you plan to lease, that's a whole different subject.
 

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I think it's easiest to get email confirmation on OTD pricing.
The last car I purchased was with email confirmation on price. That didn't matter once I hit the F&I department where the price changed, a lot. What mattered was demanding my keys back at that point.
 
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