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2018 2.0T EX-L
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51 Posts
Just ordered some coilovers, the brand I am not familiar with but they seem to have a decent online following and the price is reasonable.

Yellow Speed Super Lows 3”-5” drop. They are being built in Taiwan right now and should ship by the end of the month. No clue when I’ll actually get them. Maybe Mid-November.

Got tired of waiting for a more reputable brand or a decent aftermarket strut/spring combo. The Ksports don’t provide enough of a drop, as I’m currently sitting 8” off the ground to the bottom of the car with 19x9.5 +35 and 245/45’s.

Got my Eibach camber arms in already so those are ready to go on with the coils.

Hopefully the quality is there and hopefully my wheels and tires don’t rub. The goal is to get a 3” drop F/R without any stretch on tires on 19’s and retain the front fender liners with a good amount of suspension travel and less than 2 degrees of camber.

My intuition tells me this will be bit of a struggle to get both form and function.
 

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2018 2.0T EX-L
Joined
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51 Posts
Just ordered some coilovers, the brand I am not familiar with but they seem to have a decent online following and the price is reasonable.

Yellow Speed Super Lows 3”-5” drop. They are being built in Taiwan right now and should ship by the end of the month. No clue when I’ll actually get them. Maybe Mid-November.

Got tired of waiting for a more reputable brand or a decent aftermarket strut/spring combo. The Ksports don’t provide enough of a drop, as I’m currently sitting 8” off the ground to the bottom of the car with 19x9.5 +35 and 245/45’s.

Got my Eibach camber arms in already so those are ready to go on with the coils.

Hopefully the quality is there and hopefully my wheels and tires don’t rub. The goal is to get a 3” drop F/R without any stretch on tires on 19’s and retain the front fender liners with a good amount of suspension travel and less than 2 degrees of camber.

My intuition tells me this will be bit of a struggle to get both form and function.
Well I have an update: and it’s mostly bad news.

Got the coilovers in and they are the wrong ones, they sent me a kitfor the 08-12’s. Working on a refund.

But bad news gets worse: I had some of the car torn apart and was putting a DIY together. The front end is straightforward and no hassles. But the rear struts are a whole other story: there’s no way to access the top nuts!

Can’t get to it from the rear speaker deck, from the wheel well, or from the trunk. All the panels are bonded and welded together that form a space/enclosure around the strut mounting area where the nuts reside.

The only option is to cut an access point from the trunk, and lose a large portion of the structural integrity there. I drilled small holes and used a endoscope to map out the space from multiple angles and you’d have to cut a very large opening to accommodate a wrench to torque it down. There’s 2 10mm nuts that need to be tightened. There’s literally bonded panels in every direction.

I’m not entirely sure how the struts were even installed at the Honda plant. If damage were to occur it’d require the entire rear end to be disassembled, repaired, rebonded and then painted.

Anyone have any insights on removing the rear struts? I’m at a loss.

Is it possible the bolts are welded down? I can’t tell well enough from the endoscope. I see a washer, so it leads me to believe it’s torqued down.

I can’t imagine the suspension being this difficult to service.
 

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Well I have an update: and it’s mostly bad news.

Got the coilovers in and they are the wrong ones, they sent me a kitfor the 08-12’s. Working on a refund.

But bad news gets worse: I had some of the car torn apart and was putting a DIY together. The front end is straightforward and no hassles. But the rear struts are a whole other story: there’s no way to access the top nuts!

Can’t get to it from the rear speaker deck, from the wheel well, or from the trunk. All the panels are bonded and welded together that form a space/enclosure around the strut mounting area where the nuts reside.

The only option is to cut an access point from the trunk, and lose a large portion of the structural integrity there. I drilled small holes and used a endoscope to map out the space from multiple angles and you’d have to cut a very large opening to accommodate a wrench to torque it down. There’s 2 10mm nuts that need to be tightened. There’s literally bonded panels in every direction.

I’m not entirely sure how the struts were even installed at the Honda plant. If damage were to occur it’d require the entire rear end to be disassembled, repaired, rebonded and then painted.

Anyone have any insights on removing the rear struts? I’m at a loss.

Is it possible the bolts are welded down? I can’t tell well enough from the endoscope. I see a washer, so it leads me to believe it’s torqued down.

I can’t imagine the suspension being this difficult to service.
I have the sport 2.0 and the rear struts can be removed from under the wheel well. There are 2 bolts holding the top hats in place. These bolts are only accessible from the wheel well. Their sizes are either 12mm or 14mm (don't remember).
 

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2018 2.0T EX-L
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51 Posts
I have the sport 2.0 and the rear struts can be removed from under the wheel well. There are 2 bolts holding the top hats in place. These bolts are only accessible from the wheel well. Their sizes are either 12mm or 14mm (don't remember).
I see the 2 10mm bolts for the tophat from the wheel well. What I can’t tell is the nuts. Are the nuts loose or welded to the body?

When you put the new strut back, how did you torque the nuts down?
 

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I see the 2 10mm bolts for the tophat from the wheel well. What I can’t tell is the nuts. Are the nuts loose or welded to the body?

When you put the new strut back, how did you torque the nuts down?
Here is a video with a 10th Gen Civic coilover install. Both the Civic and Accord chassis share a lot in common, including strut design. You will see in the end that the OEM top hat was reused on the aftermarket coilovers for the rear.

 

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2018 2.0T EX-L
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51 Posts
I see the 2 10mm bolts for the tophat from the wheel well. What I can’t tell is the nuts. Are the nuts loose or welded to the body?

When you put the new strut back, how did you torque the nuts down?
Here is a video with a 10th Gen Civic coilover install. Both the Civic and Accord chassis share a lot in common, including strut design. You will see in the end that the OEM top hat was reused on the aftermarket coilovers for the rear.

TYVM!

That video tells me the nuts are welded down so I don’t need to worry about losing something inside the frame. And all the torque specs are very handy.

Again, thank you!
 

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IG: killab_cr3
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480 Posts
My girl just got a white 18 touring AT 2.0 and it sucks there's only 1 coilover set out for her car. Not a fan of D2. Guess i will wait till Tein makes an SA kit for it since i have had mine on my 9G and zero problems with awesome comfort. I cant stand wheel gap.
 

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My girl just got a white 18 touring AT 2.0 and it sucks there's only 1 coilover set out for her car. Not a fan of D2. Guess i will wait till Tein makes an SA kit for it since i have had mine on my 9G and zero problems with awesome comfort. I cant stand wheel gap.
Not sure if this is any better, but KSport has an application out as well.

https://www.kseriesparts.com/KSP-CHD421-KP.html

My friend had Tein's on his TL-S and I felt like they were a bit too soft. I had function and forms on my TL and it rode amazingly well so I may wait F&F to come out with something.
 

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Honda Parts Manager
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My girl just got a white 18 touring AT 2.0 and it sucks there's only 1 coilover set out for her car. Not a fan of D2. Guess i will wait till Tein makes an SA kit for it since i have had mine on my 9G and zero problems with awesome comfort. I cant stand wheel gap.
I'm also holding out for a Tein product. I had SS on my Preludes and FlexZ on my DSM. The EDFC control is pretty slick, too. We'll have to wait and see what they release!
 

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Had the Eibach Pro kit for over a month now and decided to install them along with a set of Megan camber kit for the rear. The installation require a lot of elbow grease, especially with the fronts. The inside bolts for the Control Arms in the rear are very difficult to get to. Even worse if you have large hands. But some patience and the right tools can get the job done. In all, the installation went well and waiting to go on the alignment stand very soon.

These are the camber kit I went with. And yes, they are for the 16+ Honda Civics but works just the same on the Accords.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGAN-Adjust-Rear-Lower-Camber-Arms-for-Honda-16-up-Civic-MRS-HA-1621/273057292438

Here is a helpful YouTube video that helped me with my install.
 

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IG: killab_cr3
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480 Posts
Not sure if this is any better, but KSport has an application out as well.

https://www.kseriesparts.com/KSP-CHD421-KP.html

My friend had Tein's on his TL-S and I felt like they were a bit too soft. I had function and forms on my TL and it rode amazingly well so I may wait F&F to come out with something.
Its for my GF and im sure the comfort would make her happy. I have them on mine and i love it. Im not tracking or racing, its a DD so Teins are what i want her to get.

I'm also holding out for a Tein product. I had SS on my Preludes and FlexZ on my DSM. The EDFC control is pretty slick, too. We'll have to wait and see what they release!
Just got word, they are coming real soon. Hope its not too long though.
 

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IG: killab_cr3
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480 Posts
I contacted Tein directly and they replied that they'll finish up testing in the next month and that products should hopefully release before summer 2019.
Yup, Marcus from heeltoe asked them at SEMA, thats how i knew!
 

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If anyone has instagram, Eibach posted photos of sportline prototype springs in the works for the accord. @eibach_world
 

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2018 2.0T EX-L
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51 Posts
Quick update: Got the Ksports installed.

It’s about 2.5” drop over OEM in the front with only body adjustment but minimal spring preload/compression.

In the rear I have the springs maxed and the body maxed and it’s almost 3” drop. Won’t go any lower.

Running on 19x9.5 35 on 245/40/19

Rubs pretty bad in the fronts when turning. About 4mm clearance to fender. Rear doesn’t rub and has about 7mm clearance. No rubbing in any other suspension parts. Not sure about ride comfort or shock travel yet. No fender rolling. Lost some front fender paint when I cut the wheel to test. 😞

Tomorrow will adjust ride height back up about .75in in the front and about 1in on the rears. Maybe more. It’s too low at the moment.

Side note: couldn’t get any hand tools to fit to get the rear Eibach camber arms installed and ran out of daylight will try again tomorrow.

Side note 2: glad these came with longer end links, no way the OEM will fit back on.
 

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Quick update: Got the Ksports installed.

It’s about 2.5” drop over OEM in the front with only body adjustment but minimal spring preload/compression.

In the rear I have the springs maxed and the body maxed and it’s almost 3” drop. Won’t go any lower.

Running on 19x9.5 35 on 245/40/19

Rubs pretty bad in the fronts when turning. About 4mm clearance to fender. Rear doesn’t rub and has about 7mm clearance. No rubbing in any other suspension parts. Not sure about ride comfort or shock travel yet. No fender rolling. Lost some front fender paint when I cut the wheel to test. 😞

Tomorrow will adjust ride height back up about .75in in the front and about 1in on the rears. Maybe more. It’s too low at the moment.

Side note: couldn’t get any hand tools to fit to get the rear Eibach camber arms installed and ran out of daylight will try again tomorrow.

Side note 2: glad these came with longer end links, no way the OEM will fit back on.
Looks good, but I would never drop a daily driver that low. Too many rubbing issues. Not worth it. Hope you get a better ride once you dial it back a little. Keep us updated.
 

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Quick update: Got the Ksports installed.

It’s about 2.5” drop over OEM in the front with only body adjustment but minimal spring preload/compression.

In the rear I have the springs maxed and the body maxed and it’s almost 3” drop. Won’t go any lower.

Running on 19x9.5 35 on 245/40/19

Rubs pretty bad in the fronts when turning. About 4mm clearance to fender. Rear doesn’t rub and has about 7mm clearance. No rubbing in any other suspension parts. Not sure about ride comfort or shock travel yet. No fender rolling. Lost some front fender paint when I cut the wheel to test. 😞

Tomorrow will adjust ride height back up about .75in in the front and about 1in on the rears. Maybe more. It’s too low at the moment.

Side note: couldn’t get any hand tools to fit to get the rear Eibach camber arms installed and ran out of daylight will try again tomorrow.


Side note 2: glad these came with longer end links, no way the OEM will fit back on.

Looks good slammed. But obviously, its not practical. Some minor lift and test drives and you will be on your way. The camber kits does take a long time to install because the space is very tight. The left side took twice as long because of being right handed and many 1/4 turns when loosening and tightening.

Really helpful tools are: Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set Metric, Breaker bar and 12 pt. Shallow, 3/8 in. Socket Set Metric.
 

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Hey guys.. sorry haven’t been on in a long time. So I have had the H&R Springs on for a while.. man they are great. They went from prototype to actual production Sorings so far no sag after months of having them on. I did notice though the production springs dropped the rear down just a little more. I would say they are 1.3F/1.4R I have to get a tape measure to find out exactly.

Rides smooth, with no rubbing on the 20” wheels. I know people are talking more about the eibachs. When I lived in California, those were so great. Now living up in the PNW, H&R seem to rule the roost up here.

I can say this much, don’t hot a lot hole or a man hole hard, your car will let you know you did!! Ha
 
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