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Forgive me for not reading all the comments. Several questions here:
Are your original tires the Mihcelins or Goodyears?
IF Michelin and the dealer/Honda won't help with replacements, because 14k for an Accord is way too early even if only rotated once, call Michelin customer care and complain. They had this issue with their shitty Premier line a couple years ago and when an end user with Michelins complains, they open their wallet and help out. I just left the tire wholesale industry and this was a huge ordeal. Michelin WILL help you out.
IF Goodyear tires, then you're probably SOL because Goodyear sucks and those are hardly good for a year.

Next, have you seen their inspection sheet of your vehicle? did they record tread depth readings (accurately) ?
I wouldn't replace tires until 3/32. If your tires are cupped/chopped, you'll definitely need an alignment. This dealer could be one of those dealers that alerts their customers when their tires hit the yellow as a "heads up - future need". The yellow section of an inspection form is 4-6/32" and 6/32 is still at or above 50% trad left. Like I'm sure someone else said, your car probably got tweaked into spec before leaving the assembly line and through 14k of driving has loosened up and become out enough to wear tires poorly.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Forgive me for not reading all the comments. Several questions here:
Are your original tires the Mihcelins or Goodyears?
IF Michelin and the dealer/Honda won't help with replacements, because 14k for an Accord is way too early even if only rotated once, call Michelin customer care and complain. They had this issue with their shitty Premier line a couple years ago and when an end user with Michelins complains, they open their wallet and help out. I just left the tire wholesale industry and this was a huge ordeal. Michelin WILL help you out.
IF Goodyear tires, then you're probably SOL because Goodyear sucks and those are hardly good for a year.

Next, have you seen their inspection sheet of your vehicle? did they record tread depth readings (accurately) ?
I wouldn't replace tires until 3/32. If your tires are cupped/chopped, you'll definitely need an alignment. This dealer could be one of those dealers that alerts their customers when their tires hit the yellow as a "heads up - future need". The yellow section of an inspection form is 4-6/32" and 6/32 is still at or above 50% trad left. Like I'm sure someone else said, your car probably got tweaked into spec before leaving the assembly line and through 14k of driving has loosened up and become out enough to wear tires poorly.
I believe they are Michelins. I'll do the readings myself in a few hours and post some pictures.
 
I burned through my OEM Michelins at 28k and thought even that was not great. I've never had low profile like these before. Put on a set of the Continental Purecontact LS and love them. I've got about 16k on these already but tread still seems deep enough and traction is good, even in the snow up here.
 
Is it normal for stock Michelin’s on 19’s to wear out at / or before 30k mark? I never had 19’s before so I’m really curious.

I’m still a few months in, but I was hoping they would go at least 45-50k lol.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
These are the rears

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Guess I'll track down someone who can align for less than 180 bucks! And then at least in for 2 new rears, the fronts don't look bad to me. Front right was replaced due to running over something, seemed like glass.. but it's a month old or so. Don't remember the exact date. May just get 3 new ones to match them all up. but not at 281 bucks each!

The tech did say "it's not your alignment, it's the way your tires are leaning" - okay.. so I guess that can happen with a bump? He's talking about toe right?
 
Most OE tires on cars won't hit 40k, Hell, some barely make it past 30k.
Just know that OE tires are built to the car manufacturer's desired specs and the lowest bidder usually wins out. And also a replacement tire won't be the same as the OE tire so if a Michelin MXM4 (or whatever) that comes on a car wears out at 25k, an aftermarket replacement Michelin MXM4 (or whatever) you might get closer to the mileage rating of the tire, say if it's a 60k rated tire, you may get 55-65k out of that replacement.
Either way, not hitting 20k out of your OE tire isn't good, unless it's a sport model BMW with runflats and staggered fitment.
Calling and complaining to Michelin, as an end user, will usually get you some sort of prorated money towards your next set.

EDIT: 180 for an alignment is nuts!!!! holy cow!!!
 
Lexus IS 350 F Sport. That one also liked to eat tires, but not at 14,000 miles
maybe it's your style of driving??
Nope - I had the same car, and it had summer tires that were staggered and couldn't be rotated. They were toast in 15k miles, and I normally get 50-60k out of a set of tires.
 
Is it normal for stock Michelin’s on 19’s to wear out at / or before 30k mark? I never had 19’s before so I’m really curious.

I’m still a few months in, but I was hoping they would go at least 45-50k lol.
30K miles is not too bad. Somewhere I read that tire manufacturers can play around with the material when they are selling to a vehicle maker. The buyer thinks they are getting <insert brand name>, but the quality is not the same.

I got my car with 23K miles on it. The front tires were done, rears still got more than half their life left. They obviously never bothered to rotate them. I got a new set. No big deal, factory tires must be the first thing to go anyway. Unless it's a high end car, it's safe to assume factory tires are crap and budget for a new set soon. (So if you're saying "I got a jetta in 2004 and it had pirellis on it", I'm saying yes they are pirellis, but actually no, they're not.)
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Most OE tires on cars won't hit 40k, Hell, some barely make it past 30k.
Just know that OE tires are built to the car manufacturer's desired specs and the lowest bidder usually wins out. And also a replacement tire won't be the same as the OE tire so if a Michelin MXM4 (or whatever) that comes on a car wears out at 25k, an aftermarket replacement Michelin MXM4 (or whatever) you might get closer to the mileage rating of the tire, say if it's a 60k rated tire, you may get 55-65k out of that replacement.
Either way, not hitting 20k out of your OE tire isn't good, unless it's a sport model BMW with runflats and staggered fitment.
Calling and complaining to Michelin, as an end user, will usually get you some sort of prorated money towards your next set.

EDIT: 180 for an alignment is nuts!!!! holy cow!!!
I'll call them tomorrow - any specific department to reach out to? Or just plain old customer service..
 
customer care. 1 (866) 866-6605
I used to have to call Michelin to deal with these claims for dealerships and noticed that if the end user called, Michelin opened up their wallet more than if a dealer/shop or distributor called.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
The real problem is that they are just LOUD in the back. I'm not sure how this could be caused by those tires. If they get replaced, aligned and the noise is still there it won't be a surprise!

Thank you for the number!

Just thinking out loud. If the tire wear is causing the noise. I should be able to put the rears on the front and the noise should go away, at least enough to take it for a test run... may have to do that this weekend.
 
30K miles is not too bad. Somewhere I read that tire manufacturers can play around with the material when they are selling to a vehicle maker. The buyer thinks they are getting <insert brand name>, but the quality is not the same.

I got my car with 23K miles on it. The front tires were done, rears still got more than half their life left. They obviously never bothered to rotate them. I got a new set. No big deal, factory tires must be the first thing to go anyway. Unless it's a high end car, it's safe to assume factory tires are crap and budget for a new set soon. (So if you're saying "I got a jetta in 2004 and it had pirellis on it", I'm saying yes they are pirellis, but actually no, they're not.)
You mean even for Michelin’s? Understood. I don’t know, unless you’re speaking specifically about the 19’s, my experience (before this one, don’t know how this’ll turn out yet) with smaller OE tires had been pretty good as far as longevity goes actually. I mean, I got both the 06 and 14 new. The 15in Michelin’s had its issues (super noisy over certain pavement), but I still got around 45k-50k out of them. I don’t remember the exact mileage, but I remember it was several years after it was purchased, and I could’ve pushed for more if needed. I believe the only reason I had to change them was due to performance in rain/snow, which worsened dramatically at that point.

Same deal for my ‘14, I got 37k and still had good tread life, I only changed them because I had a tire blowout after driving over a gigantic pothole (which doesn’t count, it’s the shitty roadwork by the wonderful county crew)... maybe I got lucky, or it was due to their smaller size wheels, I was on pace to get 45k as well...

All I know is, if these tires don’t reach 30k like I think they should, I’m swapping them for a set of OEM 17’s or 16’s lol
 
Just thinking out loud. If the tire wear is causing the noise. I should be able to put the rears on the front and the noise should go away, at least enough to take it for a test run... may have to do that this weekend.
Uneven wear is the symptom. You want to sort out the suspension geometry.
 
Okay, already have a post on FB asking for references on places to go for alignment, that'll be first.
If I can make a suggestion: since you're getting new tires too, go to a tire shop that does all. New tires, mount and road force balance, alignment. One source of responsibility. If you have any issues later they can't blame it on someone else's work.
 
My tires got very loud to the point of thinking I had a bearing issue as well. My inside edges are toast. This wear happens when in the rear. I have 29k miles but the tires have been a little sketchy for the past 10k. I run 38 PSI Rotated 2x (I accept the negligence here). The outside row of tread barely hits the ground in the rear. If I were to flip the tires on the rim I could probably get another 15k. I am almost out of rubber on the inside edge and almost no wear on the outside. All showing in spec for alignment. Is this treadwear pattern normal for these cars?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
My tires got very loud to the point of thinking I had a bearing issue as well. My inside edges are toast. This wear happens when in the rear. I have 29k miles but the tires have been a little sketchy for the past 10k. I run 38 PSI Rotated 2x (I accept the negligence here). The outside row of tread barely hits the ground in the rear. If I were to flip the tires on the rim I could probably get another 15k. I am almost out of rubber on the inside edge and almost no wear on the outside. All showing in spec for alignment. Is this treadwear pattern normal for these cars?
Was worried about a post like this coming along. I know for a fact I have NOT done anything to this car to knock out the alignment. If I did do something that would knock the rear TOE alignment out, why would that not knock the front alignment out? This post seems to confirm what I'm thinking.
 
I haven‘t read the entire thread so excuse me if this question has already been asked... but we’re you getting rotations done?
 
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