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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,

I apologize in advance for not doing thorough searches, but I have done some cursory ones. *I am stuck using slow Internet in a remote area from a mobile device that makes it difficult to do anything online. *I also apologize for being so long winded, but I want to give you as much info as possible..

I am the new owner of a 1997 accord LX 2.2 5 speed. *153k miles.*

I have the owners manual, and I have PDF shop manual for a 1996. *Unfortunately, there is no computer here where I can access the PDF.

I have a few issues That I need to address. I'll try and give the best descriptions I can. *I have no history on the car *except new battery and tires. Brake and clutch fluid were both empty when i got it, yet both still worked. *They are now filled and working fine.

I have a good OBDII scanner with me, but I can't find the connector, *under the dash or under the hood. *Is this in fact an OBDII controlled car? *I was under the impression that from 1996and 1/2and newer, the feds required all gas passenger vehicles to be OBDII compliant. *

1. * What is the (warmed up) idle RPM supposed to be? *The car when idling is not idling (rough) as in missing or skipping. *It is idling "hard". *That is, it is very staccato when at idle. *When this is happening, the tach appears steady to be at 750 RPms. *It's hard to tell because of the gradations below 1000 rpm.

The car runs perfectly, plenty of power and no misses or skipping. *It is just an idle issue. *The idle is very steady, and the engine does not die, it just "buzzes"the interior, and feels like the car is on a vibrating pad. *If I press on the accelerator at all with any increase in RPMS the hardness/vibrations go away and everything is smooth.*

After *searching here, I found a post that said it may be the rear motor mount. I have not been able to get under it yet, but after putting it in 1st and reverse, and letting the clutch out slowly, the engine has very minimal "roll" to it. *I am not sure if this is a good test or not for the rear mount. *

What should the idle be, and what could/would affect it if it's *off? *Where is the OBDII connector if it has one?

The heater temp control was stuck. *Thanks to a post here, I was able to locate the temp valve and found the cable was bound up. *I sprayed some WD on it and worked it back and forth, and it freed up a little, but it doesn't have full range yet. *Only about 85%. *It is definitely the cable. *The valve itself operates freely. *How to I access the cable at the top, behind the actual control so I can lube it up or check for binding?

On the same subject. The HVAC diverter door is not fully functional. *It will send airflow to the dash vents, and to the defroster vents. *But it sends nothing to the floor on any setting, even thought the appropriate button is pressed and lights up. *Any thoughts on trouble shooting this?

The door locks have a mind of their own. *This is complicated to describe. When sitting in the car pressing the drivers lock switch, with all doors closed, the passenger rear door makes a cycling noise like a motor sound, and all doors clunk and attempt to lock. *It keeps making this noise several times *if trying to lock, and lock, and lock, and lock. It will keep doing this until I *press the switch up, then all doors unlock and activity stops. * The *passenger front and drivers rear, lock fine and unlock fine during this process. *If pressing the drivers door lock manually, not the switch but the actual button, there is binding. *It will not go down.*

If I do the same thing with the drivers door open and not sitting in the car, (as crazy as it sounds) it will do this same *cycle thing, until I press the switch up (drivers door still open) and then it stops (doors are unlocked). *If I do this 2 or 3 more times, from the inside door lock switch with the drivers door open, it will eventually lock all doors and stop the cycling sounds. *It is very (hit or miss).

The behavior is slightly different if doing this from the passenger door. *Not worth detailing here, just take it as (just as bizarre). *Using the key in the either door is also similar, and bizarre. *The symptoms are not consistent. *The only constant is that the passenger rear door is the one with some kind of "motor" sound in it. *The other doors sound normal. *Like they are actuated with a normal solenoid type of actuator. **

Any thoughts on troubleshooting this issue ?

So to summarize, *I am looking for info in troubleshooting the above issues.

1. Hard idle.
2. Where, if so equipped, is the OBDII connector?
3. *How can I further free up the HVAC temp control cable?
4. *How can I troubleshoot *the HVAC floor diverted issue?
5. *Door lock cycling.

Also, is there any way to check the timing belt for wear?
How can I reset the "maintenance indicator". **It appears to be a mechanical, not electrical indicator. *

Again, sorry for being long winded. *my internet access is very limited here.

Thank you very much in advance, I really appreciate any info you can give regarding these issues.*

Paul.../NH (temp in AZ)...
 

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the car normally idles rough as it ages, but a bad rear mount will amplify it. get under the car and loose for a broken lever on the mount.

idle is 750 - no worries.

obd connector Is behind the center coin pocket in the center console area. pull it out.

start disassembling the dash to pull the hvac unit out to access the cables for the door and heater valve. replace the cables because lube can only do so much for an aged setup.

the door locks that are making noise require a replacement door lock actuator. this is how they fail. gotta love it!

t-belt wear is VERY hard to gauge. the belt is sheltered in the engine so unless it is VERY old or VERY tired from mileage it won't look too bad from a new belt. just pop a new one on every 105k.

maint indicator has a slot in the gauge assembly. plug your key it in and push a few times. it likes to stick if it hasn't been touched in a while. just keep jamming jamming jamming till your green :lmao:
 

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Obd II location

The obd II connector is located behind the ass tray just slide it out


QUOTE

=pjw73nh;1494362]Greetings,

I apologize in advance for not doing thorough searches, but I have done some cursory ones. *I am stuck using slow Internet in a remote area from a mobile device that makes it difficult to do anything online. *I also apologize for being so long winded, but I want to give you as much info as possible..

I am the new owner of a 1997 accord LX 2.2 5 speed. *153k miles.*

I have the owners manual, and I have PDF shop manual for a 1996. *Unfortunately, there is no computer here where I can access the PDF.

I have a few issues That I need to address. I'll try and give the best descriptions I can. *I have no history on the car *except new battery and tires. Brake and clutch fluid were both empty when i got it, yet both still worked. *They are now filled and working fine.

I have a good OBDII scanner with me, but I can't find the connector, *under the dash or under the hood. *Is this in fact an OBDII controlled car? *I was under the impression that from 1996and 1/2and newer, the feds required all gas passenger vehicles to be OBDII compliant. *

1. * What is the (warmed up) idle RPM supposed to be? *The car when idling is not idling (rough) as in missing or skipping. *It is idling "hard". *That is, it is very staccato when at idle. *When this is happening, the tach appears steady to be at 750 RPms. *It's hard to tell because of the gradations below 1000 rpm.

The car runs perfectly, plenty of power and no misses or skipping. *It is just an idle issue. *The idle is very steady, and the engine does not die, it just "buzzes"the interior, and feels like the car is on a vibrating pad. *If I press on the accelerator at all with any increase in RPMS the hardness/vibrations go away and everything is smooth.*

After *searching here, I found a post that said it may be the rear motor mount. I have not been able to get under it yet, but after putting it in 1st and reverse, and letting the clutch out slowly, the engine has very minimal "roll" to it. *I am not sure if this is a good test or not for the rear mount. *

What should the idle be, and what could/would affect it if it's *off? *Where is the OBDII connector if it has one?

The heater temp control was stuck. *Thanks to a post here, I was able to locate the temp valve and found the cable was bound up. *I sprayed some WD on it and worked it back and forth, and it freed up a little, but it doesn't have full range yet. *Only about 85%. *It is definitely the cable. *The valve itself operates freely. *How to I access the cable at the top, behind the actual control so I can lube it up or check for binding?

On the same subject. The HVAC diverter door is not fully functional. *It will send airflow to the dash vents, and to the defroster vents. *But it sends nothing to the floor on any setting, even thought the appropriate button is pressed and lights up. *Any thoughts on trouble shooting this?

The door locks have a mind of their own. *This is complicated to describe. When sitting in the car pressing the drivers lock switch, with all doors closed, the passenger rear door makes a cycling noise like a motor sound, and all doors clunk and attempt to lock. *It keeps making this noise several times *if trying to lock, and lock, and lock, and lock. It will keep doing this until I *press the switch up, then all doors unlock and activity stops. * The *passenger front and drivers rear, lock fine and unlock fine during this process. *If pressing the drivers door lock manually, not the switch but the actual button, there is binding. *It will not go down.*

If I do the same thing with the drivers door open and not sitting in the car, (as crazy as it sounds) it will do this same *cycle thing, until I press the switch up (drivers door still open) and then it stops (doors are unlocked). *If I do this 2 or 3 more times, from the inside door lock switch with the drivers door open, it will eventually lock all doors and stop the cycling sounds. *It is very (hit or miss).

The behavior is slightly different if doing this from the passenger door. *Not worth detailing here, just take it as (just as bizarre). *Using the key in the either door is also similar, and bizarre. *The symptoms are not consistent. *The only constant is that the passenger rear door is the one with some kind of "motor" sound in it. *The other doors sound normal. *Like they are actuated with a normal solenoid type of actuator. **

Any thoughts on troubleshooting this issue ?

So to summarize, *I am looking for info in troubleshooting the above issues.

1. Hard idle.
2. Where, if so equipped, is the OBDII connector?
3. *How can I further free up the HVAC temp control cable?
4. *How can I troubleshoot *the HVAC floor diverted issue?
5. *Door lock cycling.

Also, is there any way to check the timing belt for wear?
How can I reset the "maintenance indicator". **It appears to be a mechanical, not electrical indicator. *

Again, sorry for being long winded. *my internet access is very limited here.

Thank you very much in advance, I really appreciate any info you can give regarding these issues.*

Paul.../NH (temp in AZ)...[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hondatech, thank you very much for your well detailed responses to my issues. I really appreciate it. To update the post, here is where I am with it. I got the door lock assembly out, but both spacers are intact. I believe the larger of the two gears is broken inside the gear it self (a small plastic piece fell out ). The car is a second car that we use a few times a year . I simply pulled the door lock fuse and now I can at least secure the car.

My task for this week while we are back out here again for a we days is to replace the rack and pinion bellows. Probably do tie rod ends while I am in there. I've got a tie rod end fork, will the castellated nuts come off ok without the spindle taper spinning in the socket? or will I need to do anything specials for this?

Did I read the shop manual correctly ? This car has 4 motor mounts? Two sides, a front and a rear? Where is the rear mount? I don't have access to a lift, but I have ramps and a floor jack. I looked briefly that last time I was under the car and couldn't seem to find the rear mount.

Thanks again for the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again for the quick reply hondatech. Wow 4 mounts. I don't think I've seen that before.

What kind of task is it ? Easily done. Any special tools needed. I've done several domestic motor mounts in the past.

Is it accessible from the top or is it done form the bottom? Hard job, easy job?

Also, any thoughts on my rack and pinion bellows replacement ? Any tricks needed to get the tie rod spindles off? I've got a separator fork that I've used on domestic cars, but I am afraid if I need to use a lot of force, I may damage the inner tie rod ends.


Thanks again. You've been a great help to me and the forum.
 

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Thanks again for the quick reply hondatech. Wow 4 mounts. I don't think I've seen that before.

What kind of task is it ? Easily done. Any special tools needed. I've done several domestic motor mounts in the past.

Is it accessible from the top or is it done form the bottom? Hard job, easy job?

Also, any thoughts on my rack and pinion bellows replacement ? Any tricks needed to get the tie rod spindles off? I've got a separator fork that I've used on domestic cars, but I am afraid if I need to use a lot of force, I may damage the inner tie rod ends.


Thanks again. You've been a great help to me and the forum.
most cars have 4 mounts on the Honda side. v6's since 98 have 5. civic '06 and above have 2 with a torque strut.

the mount can be a pita - you just have to use a variety of tools to get all the bolts out and pull it out. I take it out from the top. I can't recall off the top of my head if I need the car in the air for any reason.

the boots are easy enough.
loosen the inner to outer tie rod lock nut.
you remove the outer tie rod cotter pin. remove the nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle.
my preferred method of removing the tie rod from the knuckle is two hammers - you position one hammer on the knuckle and strike it with the other hammer. this can be dangerous if your hammers are old and worn, causing a splinter to shoot out and possibly get your skin. ouch..

once removed you rotate the outer tie rod to remove it, counting the amount of turns exactly. (i.e. 16 1/2 or 18 1/8 turns, etc)

then remove the lock nut. remove the bellows boot outer retaining clamp. pop off the inner clamp and slide the boot off.

install in reverse, tightening the outer tie rod exactly as many turns as it took to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you again for the very informative reply. I am going to attempt the bellows on Sunday. I have tie rod ends. They were relatively inexpensive. Should I just put the new ones in while I have it apart? I do not have any history on this vehicle So I have no idea of the condition of the tie rod ends.

Thanks again.
 

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tell, evaluate the condition. are the boots dryrot? cracked? is there play in any steering component?(raise the front end to take load of suspension and shake the wheel inward and outward*youtube this if you don't understand)

if they are original it wouldn't hurt to change them. however, you may need to turn the inner tie rod to properly save your alignment count.
 
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