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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I've owned my 98 Accord for about 4 months now, and I can tell it's due for new brake pads and rotors. I am most of the way (I think) done removing the front rotor, just not sure if the axle nut needs to come off or if I can just pull the rotor off at this point. Caliper, caliper bracket have been removed, philips head screws have been removed from rotor, just not sure what to do next. I think I should be able to just pull the rotor off, but it is definitely seized on.

The threads in the rotor that would allow me to "push" the rotor off appear to be stripped or heavily corroded. I will try that method in the morning but if it doesn't work I need to know if I need to remove the axle nut for this project.

I have searched and searched for about 3 hours tonight, only to find conflicting information. I have seen videos where the tie rod end is disconnected and the rotor is pushed off from the "inside" or back side of the hub, but not sure if I need to do this for my 98 V6 LX? I can't even find this subject in the ESM.

Any help is very much appreciated. If you can just answer my question, or point me in the direction of another thread or walkthrough I would appreciate it!

Matt
 

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01 Accord EX V6
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If you removed screws from the rotor. That tells me the rotor will Most likley to come off without having to remove the axle nut. Try and beat on the rotor with a mallet. It should come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks to all of you that replied. I just needed to know for sure that he rotor should come right off and that I wasn't missing anything. I was able to get the rotor off this morning by using the tapped holes to push the rotor off. Last night I tried with a 7mmx1 pitch and thought I stopped the threads but this morning I was able to try an 8mm x 1.25 pitch bolt and the threads were evidently still in good enough shape to engage. The rotor pushed right off, minimal beating.

So for anyone wondering what size bolt to push off the rotor, for me it was an 8mm x 1.25 pitch, 40mm length worked for me. So glad I have this off!

Now I am installing the caliper pins (bolts) and on the instructions that came with the brake pad, it says use a silicone based grease, not molybdenum or petroleum based. What should I use? And do I just grease the bolt head only? Can I use my valvoline multipurpose grease?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Griffey,

Just FYI I am at just under 97k miles on my 98 v6 lx so depending on your driving and braking habits you might be due for a pad/rotor change soon.

There was hardly anything left of the pad friction material, and the wear was somewhat uneven from top to bottom of the pad. There was definitely shakiness of the whole car during heavier braking on the highway.
 

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Griffey,

Just FYI I am at just under 97k miles on my 98 v6 lx so depending on your driving and braking habits you might be due for a pad/rotor change soon.

There was hardly anything left of the pad friction material, and the wear was somewhat uneven from top to bottom of the pad. There was definitely shakiness of the whole car during heavier braking on the highway.
I bought the car at 87,xxx and the previous owner was one of the guys who followed the "extreme conditions" portion of the maintenance schedule so he had the timing belt changed at ~65,000 and the brakes were done a few months prior to me purchasing the car. So I should be good for quite some time on most maintenance issues!

Glad you got yours figured out!
 

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Now I am installing the caliper pins (bolts) and on the instructions that came with the brake pad, it says use a silicone based grease, not molybdenum or petroleum based. What should I use? And do I just grease the bolt head only? Can I use my valvoline multipurpose grease?

Thanks again!
I used anti-squeal brake grease on the shims/back of the pads that make contact with the piston that pushes the pads into the rotors
 
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