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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 Honda Accord V6 sedan with an automatic. Recently hit 210,000 miles and got my first check engine light ever! Went to Autozoners and had the codes pulled and was given the following:

1. P1456 EVAP emission control system leak detected (fuel tank system)
Probable Cause
1) Loose fuel cap(which I double checked)
2) Vapor Canister Saturated
3) Failed Vent Solenoid
4) Failed Purge Solenoid

2. P1705 Stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear (which it isn't)
Probable Cause
1) Open or short circuit condition in the gear selection switch circuit.
2) Poor electrical connection.
3) Failed gear selection switch (the light doesn't work on the shifter, but I dont know if this is related or not)

3. P0700 Automatic Transmission Fault
Probable Cause
1) Indicates trans fault-check other codes

If someone could please point me in the right direction for finding the simplest fixes for these that I could do myself I would greatly appreciate it! I'm trying to avoid paying huge shop fees for something I could easily do. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't noticed poor mileage yet. I did just fill up though and it doesn't seem to be drinking more than normal.
 

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Ok. Did you peek underneath at the EVAP system just in front of the left rear tire well? If not outright leaking look for vapor after a good drive.
 

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2000 AV6 - The reason it's in my name..my favorite car so far...

p1456: usually gas cap related - is it loose? worn seal? worn internals of gas cap? (replace it) deteriorated filler pipe? hole in the gas tank?

p1705: do you have an aftermarket alarm?
-----if so they probably tied into the starter cut relay which will f-up the pcms ability to function correctly. depending on what they splice into it can still cause this code even if not spliced into the starter cut relay circuit.
-----if not, and/or in addition to that the pgm-fi main relay can stick and cause this code to set. replace it.

if the range switch gear position shaft is worn out it will also set this code. it should be 6.1mm. spread it apart using a flat head screw driver.

if it still sets make sure the shift cable is ok and the shifter detents feel normal.

if it still sets you can either trace wiring to ensure no shorts to ground or just replace the range switch.


p0700: simply a dtc stored whenever a transmission fault sets (in this case 1705)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
2000 AV6 - The reason it's in my name..my favorite car so far...

p1456: usually gas cap related - is it loose? worn seal? worn internals of gas cap? (replace it) deteriorated filler pipe? hole in the gas tank?

p1705: do you have an aftermarket alarm?
-----if so they probably tied into the starter cut relay which will f-up the pcms ability to function correctly. depending on what they splice into it can still cause this code even if not spliced into the starter cut relay circuit.
-----if not, and/or in addition to that the pgm-fi main relay can stick and cause this code to set. replace it.

if the range switch gear position shaft is worn out it will also set this code. it should be 6.1mm. spread it apart using a flat head screw driver.

if it still sets make sure the shift cable is ok and the shifter detents feel normal.

if it still sets you can either trace wiring to ensure no shorts to ground or just replace the range switch.


p0700: simply a dtc stored whenever a transmission fault sets (in this case 1705)
No gas cap problems, and I havent noticed any leaks under the car but then again I haven't really looked. Still have the stock alarm system. Where/how do I adjust the range switch gear position shaft?
 

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it's located on the transmsission and has a protective cover over it. removing the wheel will provide easier assess. but typically it's a bad range switch.

how do you know the gas cap is good internally? (it is a two way valve, not just a cap with a seal)
 

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The P1456 is a small evap leak so it is most likely a bad gas cap, it is possibly that one of the hoses has a small leak but much more likely the cap is bad.

Honda part #17670-SM4-A04 is about $20 or aftermarket is much cheaper at about $4 so not to expensive to test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay I will go about getting an aftermarket one and see if that corrects it. About how many miles should I wait, after replacing the gas cap, to get the code ran again to see if it fixed it?
 

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it's not a matter of miles. the evap test is a test run when the car is off. it may take a few tests for the system to reset it self, typically over the course of several days to a couple weeks.

I'd rec'd you go with the Honda cap. I see a lot of aftermarket caps that fail. it's a two way valve - pressure can vent out and excessive vacuum can allow atmospheric pressure in.
 
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