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So I have a 2001 V6 Honda Accord with about 162,000 miles on it. I recently had the alternator changed since it failed, but recently, I have had trouble starting the car (usually after driving about twenty to thirty minutes and stopping for groceries or something which takes about fifteen minutes). Usually if I wait anywhere between five to fifteen minutes, the car starts up like normal (sometimes it shakes a little). I noticed it happening about maybe a few times a year a few years ago, but now I'm seeing it happen maybe a few times a month. I had the ignition switch changed, but that did not solve anything and just the other day I had the main relay changed and stopped for a hair cut on my way home and again, it wouldn't start for a while (and it started shaking when I eventually got it to start until I started driving it). Does anyone have any other suggestions?
 

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Your problem sounds much like this V6 Accord, but the problem was supposed to have been fixed in 2001. Your fuel pressure regulator may be starting to fail since that was part of the "heat soak fix". The winter gas may also be part of the problem.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165330
 

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Your problem sounds much like this V6 Accord, but the problem was supposed to have been fixed in 2001. Your fuel pressure regulator may be starting to fail since that was part of the "heat soak fix". The winter gas may also be part of the problem.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165330
So I just talked to my mechanic who looked at my car for a few days and he told me it looks like I have a blown gasket, which is weird, since I never had issues with overheating (on the temperature gauge anyway) or any other classic signs. Could a blown gasket have caused this issue?
 

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Its possible, does your car loose coolant? Carefully note the coolant level in the expansion tank and see if it drops after a few days of driving or maybe thats what your mechanic already did.

Head gaskets can fail from problems other than overheating i.e. lack of coolant changes or wrong coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its possible, does your car loose coolant? Carefully note the coolant level in the expansion tank and see if it drops after a few days of driving or maybe thats what your mechanic already did.

Head gaskets can fail from problems other than overheating i.e. lack of coolant changes or wrong coolant.
He showed me that pressure builds up in an area that shouldn't be pressurized within seconds of turning the engine on and he said I would be better off scrapping it and not paying for repairs (didn't even charge me for the time spent diagnosing it) so I'm guessing he doesn't have an incentive to not be truthful. I guess it just completely threw me off because I was expecting something really bad happening if the gasket went bad, but it sort of just quietly kept going like a ticking time bomb? Especially since my temperature gauge always stayed in the center or below.
 

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Without knowing the overall condition of the car, I would get a second opinion on the diagnosis and a cost to replace the head gasket to see if its worth fixing. Of course its possible it has more problems than just the gasket, like a cracked head, but that would be rare.

If you dont want to invest any more in the car, I would try to sell it "as is" and surely get more than scrap price, since it apparently still runs under its own power. I think you should be honest toward any potential buyers and tell them you think it has a bad gasket.
 

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My 2K EXL-V6 had the "heat soak" problem. Given the age and miles, it could be something else.
 

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You can borrow a combustion gas tester for coolant at a parts store and check for combustion gases in the coolant. If the test is positive you could have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Either way That is not enough to scrap the car.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Heat Soak issue?

I know this is a bit old, but I just have to say that a blown headgasket doesn't make the car stall (usually) with out a bunch of other problems.
I would vote for the 2000 heat soak problem. You may have a car bought in 2001 that was a 2000, so it is kinda... "sold in" 2001 instead of a true blue 2001 car. If so, the heat soak problem is nothing to do with bad parts.. just the change in the gasoline during summer making the gas boil at a lower temperature. This in itself is not bad, but if the temperature it boils goes below the temperature in your engine compartment after letting it sit for a few minutes, it will boil and the motor can't run on boiling gas. It has to be liquid for it to run.
the fix? Is just a FPR that keeps the pressure higher, and an ECU that reduces the amount of time the fuel injectors are open. The end result is the amount of gas injected remains the correct amount. Lower pressure + longer duration is equal to higher pressure + shorter duration as far as quantity of gas goes.
You maybe could turn the AC on so the fans will run for a couple of minutes. That will lower the temperature. Or you can block off or crimp the vacuum line to the FPR to prevent it from opening. each has it's downside and is not a permanent fix.
I would consider getting a used FPR and ECU from a 2001 late model car, and having the Immobilizer codes transfered over (to keep your key working).
Note, this is just my opinion based on 15 years as toyota certified master mechanic and 5 years as honda certified master mechanic. I could still be wrong....
 

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I experience hot soak on my Accord 2K EX for last 3 years, usually mild symptoms when with some push on the gas pedal I'm able to start the car. However it gradually gets worse.
Can you explain why the hot soak was not present sooner ? Is this happening due to some deterioration of the thermostat and coolant so the engine runs warmer than it should? Is fpr not holding proper pressure?
Replacing fpr and ecm seems to be very expensive option.
Why Honda changed fuel lines from pass thru type circuit to dead end type on model 2000?
Some claim that converting it back to 1999 style using odyssey fuel rails fixes the problem.
Would you comment on this?
Definitely I need to fix it but don't really want to spend arm and leg. I will start with thermostat and coolant flush then fpr then odyssey rails.
 

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I have a 2000 honda accord....it starts fine but when I drive it for awhile after turning it off it will restart but cut back off....I have to let it set for 1 - 2 hrs then it would restart and run fine....I took it to the honda dealer they said it was the canister....they were way wrong......so I took it to a local machanic...hopper machanic. ...he changed 2 coil packs but he said my main problem was the throttle and IAC valve. ..he cleaned that. ...it's been three months with no problems. .....
 
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