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Hello, I am new to this site. I tried to find the answer on this thread but I dont seem to see the answer. My cruise control lights work fine on the car. But when you take your foot off the gas the car slows down. I called the dealer, they told me to check the rear brake light and horn, but they work fine, so they say its not a fuse. Then they say come in, but its $109 for a diagnostic, then parts then labor. Ugh. Can anyone help with a step by step to find the problem, and fix it alone. Thank you ahead of time. vic.
 

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Hello, I am new to this site. I tried to find the answer on this thread but I dont seem to see the answer. My cruise control lights work fine on the car. But when you take your foot off the gas the car slows down. I called the dealer, they told me to check the rear brake light and horn, but they work fine, so they say its not a fuse. Then they say come in, but its $109 for a diagnostic, then parts then labor. Ugh. Can anyone help with a step by step to find the problem, and fix it alone. Thank you ahead of time. vic.
Have you ever had trouble shifting your car out of park too? Probably your brake/cruise switch gone bad. It's a switch located down by the arm of your brake pedal and when you press your brake, it releases the switch. I had to replace mine some months ago. The part was pretty cheap, in fact, the shipping was more than the part. Hope this helps, post back if it does.

Got it at www.hondapartsdeals.com

1 x SWITCH ASSY., STOP & CRUISE (PANASONIC) () = $5.50
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $5.50
UPS and FedEx (Ground): $11.95
Total: $17.45
 

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Does the cruise control engage at all? I.E. when you hit set does the cruise light come on. What car do you have V6 or I4. I can look in the service manual for possible problems.

One possible cause is the brake switch as mentioned above but you said your brake lights work. Actually do the brake light go out? If you have I4 it could be the cruise actuator. Another possible cause could be the clock spring (cable reel) although when mine went bad the horn stopped working and the airbag light came on. It is possible that just the cruise control part of the clock spring is messed up.
 

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Does the cruise control engage at all? I.E. when you hit set does the cruise light come on. What car do you have V6 or I4. I can look in the service manual for possible problems.

One possible cause is the brake switch as mentioned above but you said your brake lights work. Actually do the brake light go out? If you have I4 it could be the cruise actuator. Another possible cause could be the clock spring (cable reel) although when mine went bad the horn stopped working and the airbag light came on. It is possible that just the cruise control part of the clock spring is messed up.
My brake lights didn't stop working when I had the problem. Of course the things you mentioned are valid too, I just tend to take the cheapest route first.
 

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You're getting a heck of a lot more advice than I did when I started two threads on the same subject :thmsup:
 

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You can always disconnect the negative from the battery, assuming you have the radio code to punch it in after you connect the battery again. It may just be a, pardon my French, "brain fart" of the Electronic Control Unit. Over the past 7 years it has happened to me twice. The cruise goes coo-coo and so does the dashboard gear position indicator. Then when I disconnected and re-connected the battery, punched in the radio code, all was ok again. Not sure what caused this, but software on our cars isn't the simplest you can think of, so regardless of how much effort Honda has put into it, there are still bugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I found what went wrong with Cruise Control. I looked at the unit. The cruise control is on the left side of the trunk compartment looking from the front. There is a line the runs from the unit to the throttle control unit. You would of figured it is all electronic. Nope!! There is a cable like a bike cable that you use on your bike. The end of the cable connects to your throttle control unit and at the end of the wire is like a hammer connector. There is a hook system that the end of hammer hooks up too. Well that hook broke off just a small piece, so the hammer connector falls out. You cannot just buy that section. You have to buy the complete throttle contol unit and its 350 dollars. So either I will just let it go or I will try and rig it to work again. Thanks to all your responses. victor.
 

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Sorry, Hood. Only thing I can do it either buy a new throttle body and just replace it, or try and fix what I got. I just dont think its worth working on. My neighbor loves working on cars, wants to give it a go. I just dont want to beat myself up on this project. Wish there was an easier way.
 

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Maybe some JB Weld if only a small part is broken off or try ebay for a used one. You can just move all your parts over.
 

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How did this end up for you?

Hi ukeyboy12,
Just wondering if this ended well for you or not. I've got the same problem, and don't want to shell out the cash to replace a $500 assembly when I can probably just fix the $2 part.
Did your neighbor fix it for you? If so, what did they do and is it still working?
Thanks for any insight,
dpl
 

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Throttle body replacement

Hi ukeyboy12,
Just wondering if this ended well for you or not. I've got the same problem, and don't want to shell out the cash to replace a $500 assembly when I can probably just fix the $2 part.
Did your neighbor fix it for you? If so, what did they do and is it still working?
Thanks for any insight,
dpl
I had the same problem with my 2003 Accord 4 cyl, the problem is the two cables that are attached to the throttle body, the one 'cam' disintegrated with age. I was quoted over $600 in both Canada and USA. My solution was to purchase a second hand throttle body and move the assembly from "new" body to the cars original. (the throttle body is easily removed) this reduced the cost to $150.
 

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I am getting pissed at this too. I can't believe honda made everything else on this car bullet proof, and this thing is so flimsy. Howcome there are no stories about the throttle cable breaking off which is right beside the cruise. It looks a little beefier...

Anyone have a fix for this, cause I'm not spending $100 or $600 to get a $8 part.

Surprisingly my honda dealer pointed me to look at this exact problem, said it was the likely culpret. I am sure I can rig something up, anyone have any ideas?
 

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Add me to the list of victim to this flimsy plastic piece on the throttle body breaking off...

It seems the best solution is to get a used throttle body for $100 - but then if that little piece is the culprit, then it's again likely to break again soon.

Any suggestions?
 

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99 Accord I4 2.3 Cruise Not Working

I have the same problem as most of you, slightly different, though.

I walked out to my car one day and the brake lights were on. Looked it up and found out about the little plastic piece that presses into the cruise control brake switch.

Got a new rubber piece and the brake lights are functional again, but the cruise has stopped working. The main cruise switch (left of the steering wheel) works and lights up, but the button on the steering wheel won't set the cruise.

Not sure if I should buy a whole new cruise control brake switch, but I don't know what else it could be.

Also have an OBD II reader and no codes came up and the check engine light wasn't on.


Thanks in advance.
 

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I have this cruis problem on my V6 6MT. My cruise wot set. I turn cruise on green light turns on but when I hold the other button on the steering when to set it won't set. Any ideas?
 

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Transfer pulley assembly

PNEROYC, or anyone else:

How is the pulley assembly disengaged from the the throttle body? Do the cruise control actuator and the acceleration cable slipped into place once the new assembly is on? Also, why not use the 'new' used part entirely, was there a way to judge the quality of the throttle body. In the end I am wondering if the plastic is fatigued already a 'new' old one should break quite quickly. Thanks for any posts/advice.



I had the same problem with my 2003 Accord 4 cyl, the problem is the two cables that are attached to the throttle body, the one 'cam' disintegrated with age. I was quoted over $600 in both Canada and USA. My solution was to purchase a second hand throttle body and move the assembly from "new" body to the cars original. (the throttle body is easily removed) this reduced the cost to $150.
 

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I've got a similar problem. I just purchased a 2003 EX-L, and as thourough as I though I was in checking it over, I neglected to check to see if the cruise was working, as everything else seemed to be in very good condition.

I'm still new to the vehicle, but I checked the owner's manual to make sure I was using it correctly: While driving on the highway, I first push the cruise control master button, and I see the cruise main light come on. I then push the set button, and see the cruise control light come on the panel, yet upon lifting my foot off the gas, the car begins to slow down as if cruise was disabled.

I googled around and found this site, so armed with a better understanding how it works, I'll have a closer look to see if I can find anything mentioned in this thread. The rear break lights and horn function properly, and I don't notice any difficulty shifting out of park.
 

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Just an update, I've spent some time looking around online and under the hood and it looks like I can confirm I'm yet another victim of the flimsy plastic linkage. It's clearly broken, and the cylindrical metal thing at the end of the cable is just dangling beside the cruise output.

I'm going to look into chemically welding it back into place first.
 
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