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17 gallons is the tank capacity
You might want to calculate mpg before you claim you are getting poor mpg.

I’ve been a lurker here for some time now.
Dozens if not hundreds of threads explaining how to calculate mpg:

1) Fill tank until the pump clicks.
2) Drive 200 miles
3) Go back to same station, same pump. Fill until the pump clicks.
4) Divide the miles you ACTUALLY drove by the number of gallons of gas you ACTUALLY needed to fill up again. THAT is your mpg.

We get ethanol mix gas here year round so its not the gas. Also i try to stick with shell, exxon/mobil, or bp regular. Once in a while I’ll use the premium.
Yes, it is the gas. Time and time again, in just about every thread about "poor mpg", it is stated that winter blend fuel will yield fewer mpg than will summer blend fuel. Yes, each contains ethanol.

Regardless, those spark plugs look "rich". Were the remanufactured fuel injectors all within 4% flow of one another and with proper spray pattern?

I screwed up in another car once- I bought remanufactured fuel injectors that were not in sync- as a matter of fact one was literally dumping fuel. Killed my mpg, killed my catalytic converter, and never threw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
RickBlaine
Ok i will calculate the mpg that way and report back.

The winter blind gas adds more ethanol than summer gas in NY? From a couple of post i read (regarding NY gas), It was under my understanding that NY gas stays the same all year.

When i take the intake manifold off to clean the egr passages. I will pull the injectors to see how the spray pattern looks. The eBay person/company i bought them from sold many and explained they all went thru the cleaning process. I attached 2 pics what they claimed they do
37E38168-585D-4FC5-A19B-78DA18E818F2.jpeg
32E52147-75F2-41C7-B02D-4F384FC13AAA.jpeg
 

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OK, the fuel injectors sound good then- it is from a seller that does the right thing. When you say you are in New York, is that New York City, or more like upstate New York like Albany?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
ok that means I dont have to check the injectors back right? 🧐
& Im from the city side. Between Long Island and Manhattan.
 

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Well, if you are able to check flow and spray pattern, check it out. But I am going for low-hanging fruit here....I have cousins in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn and dated some nut job from East Hampton a few years back- traffic in Manhattan was terrible and hard on mpg. Once I got on the Long Island expressway it got better, but still....terrible mpg.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Alright ill check them out.
& yea man, it really sucks when we get terrible mpg for our hondas.

I appreciate the help everyone offered here and when i complete the suggestions made here, i will update my results and we will continue from there.
 

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2006 Accord EX
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Alright ill check them out.
& yea man, it really sucks when we get terrible mpg for our hondas.
2004 V6 7 gen Accords(AT) were supposed to do 17-18 city, so when your car's in top performing condition you are not going to get 20 city...no matter what you do. The combined figure was about 20-21.
if you can figure out what's going on with your spark plugs(as you may need a good cleaning of the injectors, or it may be something else?) you may get the bump to 17-18 city you're trying to achieve.
 

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Honda allows 87 for V6? If not use the right octane.

By feel, does the car idle, run, drive normal x fine?

I get bout 275-290 a tank before I fill up. Been using that as a guage for a long time. Funny thing is, after plugs, tune up and all that, I still get bout the same. Car idles fine, drives fine and that‘s good enough for me. IME, you‘ll proally get a CEL, see smoke, or other blatant signs as a prelude to forthcoming issues before MPG equations.

I got about 190-200 on my my 97- V6 Maxima. lol

V6 eat a lot of gas.
 

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Hello Everyone
This is my first post on this site / forum. I’ve been a lurker here for some time now. Im not no mechanic by any means but i do like working on my car and saving money. So here is a little background to my accord and the problem im having. Sorry in advance if this is a long post.

2004 honda accord v6 ex sedan automatic. Mileage 130xxx

I purchased this car maybe 5 years ago from a guy on CL. Car checked out good and drove really good for its age. I was a new driver and never really paid attention to it. Just did little maintenance to it like change oil, change air filters, top up fluids, those kind of stuff. I do 85% city driving and hardly would use highways as my job was near by. As time went by, i noticed my car becomes sluggish to accelerate. When i take my foot off the gas, it bogs down. It picks up speed okay but ive seen videos of other people accord picking up speed way faster than mines with less effort. Its like its struggling to go faster. I have to press the pedal all the way down 100% sometimes to even get some speed.
I noticed I was getting really bad mpg. It kept on dropping even with the new parts installed. According to my calculations i was getting 11-12 mpg!! I had started reading up online what i can do to remedy the situation and did these things below. I didnt do them in the order below.

  • Cleaned out the throttle body and map sensor and later then I installed a used low mileage throttle body from another honda and new map sensor
  • installed reman fuel injectors
  • changed spark plugs and coil recently (more on these)
  • changed air filter
  • installed new egr valve
  • installed new pcv valve
  • installed both pre cat o2 sensor
  • increased tire pressure to 40psi
And thats what I remember right now. Im not sure what to do 😕. There are no trouble codes coming up. BTW A mechanic friend had changed out the timing belt, pump and pulleys around 105xxx miles. Ive never done a valve adjustment to it. My fuel trims are in the positive and its terrible. I checked out the spark plugs today and they are burnt and smell like gasoline. They were only change maybe 5000 miles ago, gapped at .44.
Can anyone help me out. These are my fuel trim at idle and 2500 rpm
View attachment 518518 View attachment 518519 View attachment 518520 View attachment 518521 View attachment 518522 View attachment 518523
3 questions, is your car using oil, what brand and viscosity, what is the compression in each cylinder?

The other 2 variables that come to mind are converter blockage, and a final longshot is transmission issues but I can't say of anything I've ever read that would cause this kind of issue that wouldn't be obvious.
 

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If you ever go for a long, high speed drive...in the dark, then pull over quickly from the long high speed drive and, in the dark, see if you can see any catalytic converters glowing red. It would be ideal if someone could hold the revs to like 3,000 RPM when you're trying to take a quick look under the hood and under the car and see if anything also smells like it's burning or very extra hot, etc. When it happened to me the first time, it was super hot and obvious, then next time on a different car, I just took off the cat and saw that it was coming apart and those pieces clogged the 2nd cat. Symptoms the 2nd time was lowered mileage and way lowered power.

Rob in AZ
 

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When was the last time the air filter was replaced?


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On my V6, the fuel light turns on around 13.2 +/- 0.2 gallons (to fill). 200 divided by 13.2 = 15.1 MPG, which in city traffic for the average driver is entirely believable. This also assumes your car behaves exactly like mine, and that you fill IMMEDIATELY after the light comes on. More likely would be around 13.8 gallons which is 14.5 MPG, which is starting to sound really friggin terrible. Fix whatever is causing the car to run rich and have low power, you should regain some of that. Further massive improvements can be had with driving style modifications, I get around 30 MPG in city (epa) conditions.

Honda allows 87 for V6? If not use the right octane.
Yes. They did that to help further compete with the Maxima, and were still able to make respectable power. More than the VQ30 in my 2001 maxima made.

I get bout 275-290 a tank before I fill up. Been using that as a guage for a long time. Funny thing is, after plugs, tune up and all that, I still get bout the same. Car idles fine, drives fine and that‘s good enough for me. IME, you‘ll proally get a CEL, see smoke, or other blatant signs as a prelude to forthcoming issues before MPG equations.

I got about 190-200 on my my 97- V6 Maxima. lol

V6 eat a lot of gas.
Mine doesn't! Fuelly says average of 512 miles per tank. I only had my maxima for a few tanks, and wasn't as effective at driving for MPG with my Maxima, only got around 320 miles per tank. I also wasn't filling it very far either.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Sorry guys for the late replies. I didnt check the site and I had some work to take care off. I received the endoscope today and I will take photos tomorrow of inside the cats for us to see them. Also next week i will be attempting a valve adjustment, check for FI spray, cleaning egr passages, piston cleaner soak and change out the spark plugs. I will keep everyone updated as i go along.

Frogvtec - I would be a happy man if i can even make it past 250 gallons for a tank. Right now, i barely even make it to 200.

A7334321 - I use penzoil platinum full synthetic 5w-30. I have never done a compression test before but i know i should really do it. It was on my mind for a long time. It seems simple. It seems like the majority here is voting on the cats might be the suspect. It just might be!? After all, a rich engine kills the converter faster right?

Rob in AZ - I got a endoscope to check the converter inside so we will see what the deal is. I will try your method one day

Big_eddy - actually i have a injen CAI on. But the bad mpg was already happening long before i put it On
 

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If you ever go for a long, high speed drive...in the dark, then pull over quickly from the long high speed drive and, in the dark, see if you can see any catalytic converters glowing red. It would be ideal if someone could hold the revs to like 3,000 RPM when you're trying to take a quick look under the hood and under the car and see if anything also smells like it's burning or very extra hot, etc. When it happened to me the first time, it was super hot and obvious, then next time on a different car, I just took off the cat and saw that it was coming apart and those pieces clogged the 2nd cat. Symptoms the 2nd time was lowered mileage and way lowered power.

Rob in AZ
Brilliant suggestion. I bought a instant read infrared thermometer on Amazon for 30 bucks that would work for that. I you could measure temperatures on normal cars as a reference. I also use it to check brake rotors for sticking calpers.

When was the last time the air filter was replaced?


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Actually, I thought of that last night after I went to bed. I never thought I'd see an air filter clogged enough to affect fuel consumption until I bought my new bad dream car mentioned in a previous post. Anyway, it's a 09 6-6 with 55k. As I started driving it regularly I got about 22 mpg on a long highway trip with speeds averaging 80 and up. I knew it would use more than my 05 6-6 but even flogged it on the highway it never dropped below 25. Anyways, I opened the air box and found the original 11 year old filter nearly completely clogged. The same with the cabin filter, a complete rats nest. Replacing the filter gave 3-4 mpg boost.
 

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Not supposed to happen that way. If air is not making it to the engine, power will be down. As the O2 sensor controls fuel based on the readings from the primary O2 sensor. This assumes you drove it the same before and after the air filter change. Less air means less fuel and less power.

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Not supposed to happen that way. If air is not making it to the engine, power will be down. ......... Less air means less fuel and less power.
OP started the thread complaining of a lack of power.

OP
With non stock intake, all bets are off. The ECU is calibrated based on a stock intake and stock air flow rates. Alter air flow and MAF placement and the ECU is just guessing. And if you run one of those low resistance aka porous air “filters” long enough you will suck enough dirt through the engine to reduce compression by half. Another reason for low power AND poor fuel consumption.


Take your car for a nice long ride somewhere you can get it up to 60 for 100miles or so. Fill it up. Drive 100 miles at a steady 55-65 mph. Fill it up again and calculate your true mileage. Let’s hear what it really is. If you are driving around in stop and go traffic you’re never going to get anywhere near expected mpg and there are way too many factors to even guess if it’s “ normal” or not.
 

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Well I don't have much input to provide but I can say I drive with a heavy foot in my 6x6 and I get around 400 miles to a tank. I'm in Utah and use 87 octane with 10% ethanol. One thing that happens with my car is if it's below 32° my e-brake will get stuck on. I have to get under the back right tire and move the brake line back and forth to release it. Once it warms above freezing it will also release. Not sure if it's that cold there. I hope you get it figured out!
 

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over the last couple forums i been on with diffrent cars, it always seems like these kind of issues are happening with people on the east coast. just something to think about.
 
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