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As I am writing this my car is at the mechanic , My 2005 Accord v.6 scanned for a Cylinder 5 misfire P305 error , replaced the destroyed plug, and ignition coil , but still get the flashing engine light. not running as rough prior to replacing parts , BUT the engine light is still flashing, and the scanner still coming up with the misfire Cylinder 5 P305 error code , now to back track , the spark plug hole was stripped , I had a family member use a spark plug re-thread kit to make new threads which enabled the new plug to be tightened , then put the new ignition coil on , and then test started the car , and as I said above still the same issue persisting .......what can this be ,

p.s. there's no significant loss of power ,
the engine is having some issue turning over with starting , but does . (there's a new battery I put in the car) just fyi .

I just hope this isn't major repairs
 

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The infamous spark plug ejection on cylinder 5. I would do a quick compression check on the engine. I suspect cylinder 5 will be much lower than the others. I would guess you have scored cylinder walls on cylinder 5.

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Discussion Starter #3
wow! "scored cylinder walls on cylinder 5" what does that mean ? also the compression check can find what? thanks for your comment reply ! :)

The infamous spark plug ejection on cylinder 5. I would do a quick compression check on the engine. I suspect cylinder 5 will be much lower than the others. I would guess you have scored cylinder walls on cylinder 5.

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and what do you mean "much lower then the others" sorry not familiar with the lingo lol
 

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The cylinder walls are where the pistons go up and down, and the rings on the Piston ride on the cylinder walls. Normally the cylinder is perfectly round and finished with a crosshatch pattern. That finish must be relatively free of gouges. When the spark plug is ejected from the cylinder the threads from the aluminum heads are pulled out with the spark plug. Some of the metal debris can go inside the cylinder and gouge the finish on the wall. If it is gouged the compression rings will not seal properly. That will cause low compression compared to the other cylinders. If there is a large difference in compression the engine will never run correctly and would give unequal power between the cylinders.

Compression is measured with a device called a compression tester. It is basically a pressure gauge, it measures the pressure in each cylinder. They should all be very close in the pressure they can generate so the engine runs smoothly. If the compression is lower on 5 then the others, that will set a misfire code. I hope that explains it.




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Discussion Starter #5
The cylinder walls are where the pistons go up and down, and the rings on the Piston ride on the cylinder walls. Normally the cylinder is perfectly round and finished with a crosshatch pattern. That finish must be relatively free of gouges. When the spark plug is ejected from the cylinder the threads from the aluminum heads are pulled out with the spark plug. Some of the metal debris can go inside the cylinder and gouge the finish on the wall. If it is gouged the compression rings will not seal properly. That will cause low compression compared to the other cylinders. If there is a large difference in compression the engine will never run correctly and would give unequal power between the cylinders.

Compression is measured with a device called a compression tester. It is basically a pressure gauge, it measures the pressure in each cylinder. They should all be very close in the pressure they can generate so the engine runs smoothly. If the compression is lower on 5 then the others, that will set a misfire code. I hope that explains it.




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thanks ! one thing that gives me hope is that there isn't a significant decrease in power . it's not hesitating either on acceleration .

I have 2 last questions Greg #1 do you think that the threads being stripped that it's definitely an ejection of the plug due to the all the things you detailed ?

and question #2 you know when disconnecting the plug on the ignition coil while idling you'll get that fluctuation in the idle (running like it will almost stall) until you reconnect it , so being said on the cylinder 5 that we replaced the plug & coil there is no difference in the idle either connected or disconnected what would that mean ?
 

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Question #1, 5 minutes with search will show you that cylinder #5 has had the issue of the spark plug loosening. It backs out enough that the pressure in the cylinder to push the sparkplug out of the engine, taking part of the threads with it. That is a well known issue.

Question #2 if there is no change disconnecting the wiring to the coil tells me that cylinder is not providing any power. The main reason is normally the coil is not sending current to the sparkplug. Another reason could be low or no compression.

I would make sure the sparkplug is firing, then check compression. One of those 2 test will fail.

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Discussion Starter #7
Question #1, 5 minutes with search will show you that cylinder #5 has had the issue of the spark plug loosening. It backs out enough that the pressure in the cylinder to push the sparkplug out of the engine, taking part of the threads with it. That is a well known issue.

Question #2 if there is no change disconnecting the wiring to the coil tells me that cylinder is not providing any power. The main reason is normally the coil is not sending current to the sparkplug. Another reason could be low or no compression.

I would make sure the sparkplug is firing, then check compression. One of those 2 test will fail.

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thanks again !

The infamous spark plug ejection on cylinder 5. I would do a quick compression check on the engine. I suspect cylinder 5 will be much lower than the others. I would guess you have scored cylinder walls on cylinder 5.

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GREAT NEWS! My Mechanic said the spark plug/coil fix worked! he cleared out the flashing engine light, and test scanned again all the cylinders are at zero, I guess that means the same..... but HUGE crisis avoided! just gonna give it a full tune up , oil change , and maybe throw in a new starter, plus last night replaced the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2005 Accord 2 door coupe LX v.6 VTEC engine smoke, oily plugs HELP !!!! , I know a mechanic can help , but wanted to run this by you guys 1st .

2005 Accord 2 door coupe LX v.6 VTEC engine smoke, oily plugs HELP !!!! , it's burning oil bad now! , yes blue/grey smoke just on startup then stops .
I put a anti-fouler in the plug that gets sludged up with oil all the time , just to not get a miss in the engine ,
now it's worse burning a lot of oil ,
blown gaskets?
pistons ?
PCV valve maybe ? (not that lucky!)
whats the cheapest effective way to go about this
also does a chemical valve gasket sealer work ?
 

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If it's burning oil as badly as it sounds, IMHO the usual PCV change or MM additions aren't going to make much difference. How much mileage on the engine and what's its maintenance history?
 

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How many miles on this engine? How much oil is it burning?

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what is this, 2 different questions on 2 different cars with 2 different user id's but really the same RFinaldi asking the questions?!

The J series engine NEVER burns oil, at least not noticeable on the non-VCM J engines, if it does then you aren't or didn't take care of it. The only ones ever burn oil are the ones with VCM and those guys are using VCM muzzler to disable VCM and all oil burning stops.
 

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If it's burning oil as badly as it sounds, IMHO the usual PCV change or MM additions aren't going to make much difference. How much mileage on the engine and what's its maintenance history?
WOW MAYBE YOUR confirmation , the last thing I am going to d before junking this is the PCV , what does "MM" mean ? was on the phone with my mechanic last night he's talking 2 to 3,000 to fix this with labor , and all , I am like "Screw that"
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@rfinaldi you getting the P305 code? If not, @t-rd will move your post to a new thread that has something to do with "massive oil burning".

This care must have been beat on hard as V6s typically don't burn oil like the i4s do.
I was getting the P305 code until I put the anti-fouler in there for the same chamber that kept failing , because oil was messing it up after awhile
 

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what is this, 2 different questions on 2 different cars with 2 different user id's but really the same RFinaldi asking the questions?!

The J series engine NEVER burns oil, at least not noticeable on the non-VCM J engines, if it does then you aren't or didn't take care of it. The only ones ever burn oil are the ones with VCM and those guys are using VCM muzzler to disable VCM and all oil burning stops.
how do you disable the VCM ? and only had the for 2 years , and kept up on it , it was beat to shit I think before I got it , it's a sport coupe with 2 loud sports mufflers on it , So I think who had with tint I ripped off , thought everyday life, was like the "Fast and Furious!" lol I just said to my wife who ever had it before me beat the hell out of it .
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was getting the P305 code until I put the anti-fouler in there for the same chamber that kept failing , because oil was messing it up after awhile
just said this to my wife last night , only had this car less then 2 years , the previous owner jacked it up! I think
 

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how do you disable the VCM ? and only had the for 2 years , and kept up on it , it was beat to shit I think before I got it , it's a sport coupe with 2 loud sports mufflers on it , So I think who had with tint I ripped off , thought everyday life, was like the "Fast and Furious!" lol I just said to my wife who ever had it before me beat the hell out of it .
7th gen V6 engines do not have VCM feature.
 

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Only cylinder 5 is fouling ? Or do all the cylinders burn oil??




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Only cylinder 5 is fouling ? Or do all the cylinders burn oil??




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well before putting the anti-fouler in it was cylinder #5 straight looking at the engine in the middle , but just replaced plugs on 4 and 6 the old ones were drenched in oil pretty much see the diagram , below , why do you ask ? thanks!!
 

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