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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife’s 2005 EX battery dies if it is unused for 3–4 days. The battery is fairly new and reads ~12.6V when it’s charged so I suspected that there is a parasitic drain when the car is shut down. I confirmed that the glove box and trunk lights turn off.

To check the draw, I turned off all the interior lights, disconnected the negative cable from the battery and attached an amp meter between the negative battery post and the negative cable. As I suspected, there was a .17 amp draw. So I started pulling fuses to isolate the cause. When I pulled fuse 15 from the engine compartment panel, the draw dropped to .05 amps. That fuse is labeled ‘Backup, ACC’.

The only thing that stopped working was the radio so I completely removed it but the .17 amp draw was still there when Fuse 15 was installed. This is the original Honda radio – the car has no mods, it’s just as it came from the factory.

Does anyone know what else could be powered off Fuse 15? Any other ideas on chasing this problem down would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Elvira
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How new is fairly new?

Can you remove the battery cables for the same 3-4 days and see if the battery self discharges? It may be bad plates in the battery. I've seen a bad battery actually show a draw of >.170 amps but when the battery was replaced with a new battery the draw was then < .020A. 20-30 milliamps is in the normal range for parasitic draw IIRC.

otherwise there is a lot of stuff on that fuse sometimes. power windows, immobilizer, etc etc etc.

Measure the voltage while someone starts the car. What is the voltage then?

Let us know what happens.

Miker
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How new is fairly new?

Can you remove the battery cables for the same 3-4 days and see if the battery self discharges? It may be bad plates in the battery. I've seen a bad battery actually show a draw of >.170 amps but when the battery was replaced with a new battery the draw was then < .020A. 20-30 milliamps is in the normal range for parasitic draw IIRC.

otherwise there is a lot of stuff on that fuse sometimes. power windows, immobilizer, etc etc etc.

Measure the voltage while someone starts the car. What is the voltage then?

Let us know what happens.

Miker
Thanks Miker. I measured 13.6V when the car was running. After it shuts down, it's 12.5V. I checked the battery on a few mornings when the car wasn't being used and it stayed at 12.5V. Then I didn't check it for a few days and when the Mrs. tried to use the car, it didn't have enough juice to crank (interior lights still worked).

I'm at an impass now and the battery is already uncabled so I'll try your suggestion and leave it that way for a few days - and check the voltage every day.

Thanks
 

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Elvira
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Thanks Miker. I measured 13.6V when the car was running. After it shuts down, it's 12.5V. I checked the battery on a few mornings when the car wasn't being used and it stayed at 12.5V. Then I didn't check it for a few days and when the Mrs. tried to use the car, it didn't have enough juice to crank (interior lights still worked).

I'm at an impass now and the battery is already uncabled so I'll try your suggestion and leave it that way for a few days - and check the voltage every day.

Thanks
Actually I meant measure the voltage AS the engine is started. If the voltage drops precipitously to 9-10 volts there is a problem with the battery.

Miker
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
An update on my Battery drain problem:
I fully charged the battery overnight then attached a Battery Tender to see what it would indicate. It gave a green light to say the battery was fully charged. Voltage was 12.8V. I left the car unused for a week with the negative cable unattached. At the end of a week it still read 12.8V so the battery isn’t dying on its own.

So…back to troubleshooting; Reattach the negative cable. I measure a 170 milliamp battery draw when it’s sitting idle and everything is turned off. If I remove underhood Fuse 15 , the drain drops down to 20 milliamps. The only thing I noticed that stopped working was the radio. Removing the radio had no effect on the draw. Since F15 is such a big fuse (40A), I figured that it may feed other fuses so I put it back in and started pulling fuses from the interior fuse panel.

When I removed Fuse 7, the drain dropped to 20 milliamps – right about where it should be!:banana:
F7 is labeled ‘Backup’. As far as I can tell, everything works with F7 removed. It must be there for a reason and maybe it’s for AC or something I didn't check. :dunno: All the exterior lights work (yes, I verified that backup lights work), radio, etc., all OK. At this point, I’m satisfied leaving that fuse out until I notice that something has stopped working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: Problem resolved.
Removing Fuse 7 disabled the FOB door lock controls so I started looking for anything suspicious. The drivers side window lock switch (prevents kids from using the power windows) could rock forward but it wouldn't rock toward the back.

I unplugged the switch assemble and the battery drain dropped from 700 to 20 milliamps with both Fuse 15 & Fuse 7 installed. I opened up the assembly and found that the mechanical arm from the rocker wasn't engaging the slider on the circuit board properly. I reset it right and now all is well.

BTW, I had replaced that switch assembly with one from ebay a few months ago. It may have been this way all along. The car just never sat long enough to cause a problem until recently.
I used to repair electro-mechanical systems. We had a saying, “What’s the last thing you touched, a$$h0le”? I guess that still holds true.
 

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Elvira
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Update: Problem resolved.
Removing Fuse 7 disabled the FOB door lock controls so I started looking for anything suspicious. The drivers side window lock switch (prevents kids from using the power windows) could rock forward but it wouldn't rock toward the back.

I unplugged the switch assemble and the battery drain dropped from 700 to 20 milliamps with both Fuse 15 & Fuse 7 installed. I opened up the assembly and found that the mechanical arm from the rocker wasn't engaging the slider on the circuit board properly. I reset it right and now all is well.

BTW, I had replaced that switch assembly with one from ebay a few months ago. It may have been this way all along. The car just never sat long enough to cause a problem until recently.
I used to repair electro-mechanical systems. We had a saying, “What’s the last thing you touched, a$$h0le”? I guess that still holds true.
Thanks for the update. Most threads die on the vine with no resolution. Good saying too. Nice find who woulda thunk?
Miker
 

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“What’s the last thing you touched, a$$h0le”? I guess that still holds true.
I'm in IT and ask this question on a daily basis to my customers....well not exactly in this way :) but it does hold true. The problem I face is that I have to find out what the last thing they touched was.

I'm glad you fixed the issue. My father's 99 Accord had a similar issue to what you had but it seems that the battery was the issue. I was just under three years and the parts guys didn't want to get the service guys involved to check it. So they just swapped it out with a new one. So far the problem hasn't come back on the car and it's been almost a month now.
 

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Update: Problem resolved.
Removing Fuse 7 disabled the FOB door lock controls so I started looking for anything suspicious. The drivers side window lock switch (prevents kids from using the power windows) could rock forward but it wouldn't rock toward the back.

I unplugged the switch assemble and the battery drain dropped from 700 to 20 milliamps with both Fuse 15 & Fuse 7 installed. I opened up the assembly and found that the mechanical arm from the rocker wasn't engaging the slider on the circuit board properly. I reset it right and now all is well.

BTW, I had replaced that switch assembly with one from ebay a few months ago. It may have been this way all along. The car just never sat long enough to cause a problem until recently.
I used to repair electro-mechanical systems. We had a saying, “What’s the last thing you touched, a$$h0le”? I guess that still holds true.
What switch assemble are you referring to and where is it located? I'm having the same problem with my Honda accord.
 

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We had a saying, “What’s the last thing you touched, a$$h0le”? I guess that still holds true.
Yup, if it used to work and then you touched it and it stopped working, it was probably you.

It's like that other saying. If there's two people in one room and one of them farts . . . everybody knows who did it.
 

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Cruising in Montana
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What switch assemble are you referring to and where is it located? I'm having the same problem with my Honda accord.
Probably the master control switch assembly in the driver's door arm rest. The one with all 4 window up/down switches, mirror controls, lock button, etc.
 
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