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Use only Honda DW1. I strongly suggest you find another shop.
And beware of Firestone who even recently had a brochure bragging about their pressure flush on transmissions. Always make sure whoever does it are doing nothing but drain and fill, not pressure flushing. That's a good way to screw up your transmission and cost you a lot of money to fix. I was actually looking at an Accord on Craigslist and the guy mentioned transmission hesitation. He said his wife had everything done at Honda, but had taken it to Firestone for transmission fluid change. At least he was honest about the problem up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I would have it changed another couple times with proper fluid. Have used Lucas Trans Stabilizer with great results in the past with slipping transmissions. Hard shifting too.. keep driving after and start saving or planning down the road. May last a long time like that.
Interesting thanks for that suggestion. I just did a little research on it and it looks amazing. I think I'll try it after having another few fluid changes with the Honda brand DW-1.

Transmission shops will most always try to convince people they need a new or rebuilt trans., like any other buss. they are looking for buss. Look around for a shop that will let you bring the fluid & they charge for the labor. I do that & they charge me $20, look for shops outside the metro area. Do the d/f @ every oil change if you want to space them out. Keep driving until the trans. fails, you may get many more yrs. out of it. Sounds like you were able to catch the repair in time, so I wouldn't worry about it. If you can't do the d/f yourself you may want to go back to that mechanic that put the wrong fluid in & convince him to do the next couple d/f's for $15-20 ea. (get a case of DW-1) & buy a pack of crush washers (get mine off Amz.). Driving in between ea. change will get any newer fluid in the same places that any of the anti-freeze got into, like the torque converter. Hopefully the mechanic had a lift (ran through all the gears) or drove the car on the highway between ea. d/f to lock up the torque converter.
Thanks for this info. I was kind of expecting them telling me I need a rebuild regardless so I understand what you're saying.

That's what I was thinking at this point is to do the d/f with the genuine Honda fluid and drive the car until the transmission fails. It doesn't seem like I have anything to lose given the circumstances.

The only thing I might do is bring it to a general shop (not transmission) that specializes in imports like Honda and have them do a free diagnosis just in case it's something else or they have an inexpensive repair. With everything that led up to this issue I'm guessing it must be transmission related but I guess it can't hurt to double check.

Wow at least you made it to CO. I guess I'll know when it's getting close to failing based on how it's acting. The good thing is I only drive local so even if I did get stuck it would be an inconvenience but since I have roadside assistance I would get a free tow and I could take an Uber home. Plus I drive so few miles per week and only out once or twice a week I guess it has the potential of going a long time driving like this.

And beware of Firestone who even recently had a brochure bragging about their pressure flush on transmissions. Always make sure whoever does it are doing nothing but drain and fill, not pressure flushing. That's a good way to screw up your transmission and cost you a lot of money to fix. I was actually looking at an Accord on Craigslist and the guy mentioned transmission hesitation. He said his wife had everything done at Honda, but had taken it to Firestone for transmission fluid change. At least he was honest about the problem up front.
That's good to know. Thanks! I'll definitely just have drain and fill done.

I spoke to my mechanic and he doesn't think it will make a difference draining it a few times with Honda brand DW-1 and then refilling it but he's happy to do it and then add Lucas Trans Stabilizer. II'm going to call shops on Monday to see if I can find one as an alternative since they have a lift vs my mechanic who lifts it at home-not sure if this is different than lifting at home but I'll explore.

One thing that's strange to me is yesterday I had to go out yesterday and on the way home I remembered in D3 I don't feel that hesitation jittery feeling so I put it in D3 and drove home and didn't feel it at all. In fact when it shifted into gears it shifted very solidly without any rpm jittery at all.

Anyone have any idea why in D3 I don't feel anything abnormal?

If the fluid drain and change doesn't make the issue better is it ok to drive in D3 around town and only go into drive on the highway since it drives much better like that?
 

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If the fluid drain and change doesn't make the issue better is it ok to drive in D3 around town and only go into drive on the highway since it drives much better like that?
OK? No. Because that's not normal driving...
At some point you're going to have to put it in drive and throw caution to the wind.
You can't drive around in third gear all the time, and doing so is not going to let the tranny shift the way it's designed to do.
I say, do another drain and refill and then just drive it.
To a certain extent, what's done is done and ya can't agonize over it.
 

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I just picked up my 2008 Honda Accord EX-L from the mechanic that replaced my radiator and completely drained my transmission fluid multiple times until there was not any antifreeze left since it mixed with the radiator.

Before I had it towed to him there was a delay in shifting from drive to reverse and when I put the car in drive it took a few seconds to start driving because the engine would just rev and not go anywhere until the transmission caught. There was also a banging noise at times. (I experienced all this in a few minutes window before I stopped driving it.)

All these things are gone, and it drives fine except while I was driving the car home from the mechanic there is a hesitation only when lightly accelerating between first/second, second/third, third/fourth. It is a slight hesitation/bucking/lagging/choking feeling. Then as I get into fifth gear it drives fine. It may be fine after fourth gear-I’m not sure.

I also noticed the rpm needle does not glide upwards when this happens. Instead the needle jumps a little then a little more and then again.

If I press on the accelerator hard from a stopped position to accelerate fast the car goes through all the gears fine with no hesitation or any of those other things and the rpm needle glides up. There is also nothing noticeable at highs speeds.

This hesitation was not there before all this happened with my car, so I am not sure if it is transmission or engine related and I do not know where to go next. The check engine light is not on and I am not sure if bring it somewhere to have it tested for codes if anything will come up.

It turns out the mechanic used Valvoline Dex/Merc ATF and I contacted Valvoline and many other sources and this is the wrong fluid. If anything he should have used Valvolime MaxLife if he was going to use Valvoline.

So I have 3 questions regarding all this.

1. Could this wrong fluid cause this slight hesitation?

2. Does it make sense to have him replace the fluid or have a shop do it since he works from home and doesn't have any machines? (I've already had 2 transmission shops tell me that once even a teaspoon of water gets in the transmission you have major repairs and I don't know how valid this is.)

3. If I go the route of trying to have the transmission fluid replaced without going the extensive transmission route could I be causing more damage then what's already done?

Thanks for any insight.
I have this same year and model. I’m the second owner, and the car was always serviced at a dealer. When accelerating slowly, the car will hesitate and buck a little. I think it’s just how the tranny is designed. If I drive it like I stole it, it never hesitates. As my dad always said, if your car makes noise, turn the stereo volume up.
 

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Short trips are just as if not harder on the car’s trans. That and heating it up with heavy shifting in say stop and go. You clearly want a different answer; wish there was one to give. Either forget about it and see what happens or; change like multiple people mention and see what happens.

Having the proper viscosity & friction modifiers like already mentioned by previous member’s is on point. Also any leftover products that should not be in the trans will have a greater chance to be removed. This is one time I would actually recommend a proper flush.
100$ fluids < transmission replacement cost.
 

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I spoke to my mechanic and he doesn't think it will make a difference draining it a few times with Honda brand DW-1 and then refilling it but he's happy to do it and then add Lucas Trans Stabilizer. II'm going to call shops on Monday to see if I can find one as an alternative since they have a lift vs my mechanic who lifts it at home-not sure if this is different than lifting at home but I'll explore.

One thing that's strange to me is yesterday I had to go out yesterday and on the way home I remembered in D3 I don't feel that hesitation jittery feeling so I put it in D3 and drove home and didn't feel it at all. In fact when it shifted into gears it shifted very solidly without any rpm jittery at all.

Anyone have any idea why in D3 I don't feel anything abnormal?

If the fluid drain and change doesn't make the issue better is it ok to drive in D3 around town and only go into drive on the highway since it drives much better like that?
3rd. & 4th. gear is the one that gets the most wear because the trans. is always shifting between gears 3 & 4 - 4 & 3 when driving in city traffic. When a d/f is done, the proper way is to have the car lifted off the ground (all 4 wheels) then shifted through all the gears several times, locking up the torque converter. The other way would be to drive the car, putting it in all gears including reverse several times & to take it on the highway to lock up the torque converter. That is why it is recommended to drive both city / hwy. between fluid changes. Hope the mechanic followed these instructions. Sometimes you can drive just in 3rd. gear, like when you are stuck in slow moving road construction. It keeps the trans. from constantly shifting back & forth from 3-4 / 4-3 gears. Read @ this site for info. about 7th. gen. V6 trans. even though you don't have one but some of the info. may help - Pressure
 

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Discussion Starter #27
3rd. & 4th. gear is the one that gets the most wear because the trans. is always shifting between gears 3 & 4 - 4 & 3 when driving in city traffic. When a d/f is done, the proper way is to have the car lifted off the ground (all 4 wheels) then shifted through all the gears several times, locking up the torque converter. The other way would be to drive the car, putting it in all gears including reverse several times & to take it on the highway to lock up the torque converter. That is why it is recommended to drive both city / hwy. between fluid changes. Hope the mechanic followed these instructions. Sometimes you can drive just in 3rd. gear, like when you are stuck in slow moving road construction. It keeps the trans. from constantly shifting back & forth from 3-4 / 4-3 gears. Read @ this site for info. about 7th. gen. V6 trans. even though you don't have one but some of the info. may help - Pressure
Hi all. Thanks for your recent answers and your help. I was able to bring it to a shop today that specializes in foreign cars and both a mechanic and then the owner drove it to verify the problem.

He said it will most likely need a transmission in the future but thought it's worth trying the d/r (like many here suggested) and then bring it back in a few days after driving it for 50-100 miles and have it done again. I made sure he uses the Honda Genuine DW-1 and he showed me the quart so all good there. It's worth the $69 each d/r at least knowing I have the right fluid in there, along with possibly of helping remove what shouldn't be in there, even if it doesn't make any noticeable changes.

I like that he wasn't trying to sell me a transmission right away and said who knows it may last a few months or a couple of years in this condition and the damage is already done so it's not like I'm going to harm it anymore by driving it like this (same things many of you said).
 

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Hi all. Thanks for your recent answers and your help. I was able to bring it to a shop today that specializes in foreign cars and both a mechanic and then the owner drove it to verify the problem.

He said it will most likely need a transmission in the future but thought it's worth trying the d/r (like many here suggested) and then bring it back in a few days after driving it for 50-100 miles and have it done again. I made sure he uses the Honda Genuine DW-1 and he showed me the quart so all good there. It's worth the $69 each d/r at least knowing I have the right fluid in there, along with possibly of helping remove what shouldn't be in there, even if it doesn't make any noticeable changes.

I like that he wasn't trying to sell me a transmission right away and said who knows it may last a few months or a couple of years in this condition and the damage is already done so it's not like I'm going to harm it anymore by driving it like this (same things many of you said).
Sounds like you found an honest mechanic / shop, $69 isn't to bad for a d/f & they use Honda DW-1. Come back & give us an update after the 2nd. d/f.
 

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It's your dual solenoid's springs there getting weaker and it's a Hassel to get it right because you can adjust them but you also have to adjust your throttle position screw and Everytime you change something you have to reset your memory you have to buy a special but tool online to do it i have a how to on oddyclub

I had the same problem. With my Odyssey and just spent 3 months doing fixing it try looking up on YouTube about the 5speed transmission Honda some University teacher will break down the entire transmission if your serious about getting into this it's easy but you might get stuck easily but.its kinda fun and for hondas you can make your transmission shift how you want without taking apart the whole transmission

Good thing about hondas transmission is they don't build up unwanted pressure and they are easy to adjust but you have to get your head into it lots of mistakes will happen and if you replace you dual solenoid don't buy the cheap parts they have plastic instead of metal hydrolic parts which you do not want in heat and pressure timing
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Sounds like you found an honest mechanic / shop, $69 isn't to bad for a d/f & they use Honda DW-1. Come back & give us an update after the 2nd. d/f.
I definitely will. I've driven it 52 miles so far with a mix of highway and around town. I don't want to overthink this but I just want to make sure I get the proper mileage and I'm driving it the way I should before bringing it back tomorrow afternoon for the the 2nd d/f.

Should I intentionally drive it more to get to around 100 miles or even more before I bring it back? Any particular way I should be driving it or just drive it normal?

Thanks.
 

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Drive it normal, reverse a couple times also, city/hwy., 52 miles is good, more if you want (I would wait for the next oil change so as to not feel like you were wasting the fluid, but it is up to you).
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I want to thank everyone that helped with this 7 months ago and give you a fantastic update and thought you might be interested in how things played out because it's certainly very confusing to me.

My accord drives great!! I find it so strange that there is absolutely zero hesitation what so ever no matter what speed I'm driving or even with the slightest hesitation. I've tested this over and over to make sure because it's so confusing to me.

After all the advice from everyone I had the transmission fluid changed at a shop that specializes in these types of cars with genuine Honda fluid. He even pulled the fluid off the shelf to show me that's they use. I then brought it back 1 week later after driving it around 150 miles on the highway and in city traffic. Unfortunately, nothing changed even after the 2nd fluid change.

I've only put on a total of 2,350 miles in the past 7 months since I work from home. Then on October 12 I started driving a lot more frequently because I got back to the gym 4 days a week with a 10 mile round trip each time. I noticed after a couple of weeks of this driving style the hesitation just disappeared. It was strange because it was literally all of a sudden (one day) that I noticed it and then every day after that I kept testing it with slight hesitation and it's exactly how it used to run. I even occasionally still test it with slight hesitation and to my amazement it's perfect. I didn't even have to test it before because it was so noticeable every day I drove it. In all I've I only put on 2,350 miles in 7 months but the frequency of my driving changed on October 12.

The thing that has me very confused is that I didn't have any fluid changes since those last two changes seven months ago, and I haven't needed to add any fluid, so I don't understand how any antifreeze or anything could have come out of the transmission. I'm also confused because the transmission shop and even the foreign shop that did the two fluid changes stated that I would need a new transmission eventually because it was only going to get worse. But instead it got better literally the day I noticed it and it's been for weeks. It seems to me like a new transmission is not necessary in the future at least for the issue I had.

Does anyone have any idea what happened here?

Do you think it's possible it could come back?

Do you think something changed because I started driving it more frequently or something else may have happened here?
 

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I want to thank everyone that helped with this 7 months ago and give you a fantastic update and thought you might be interested in how things played out because it's certainly very confusing to me.

My accord drives great!! I find it so strange that there is absolutely zero hesitation what so ever no matter what speed I'm driving or even with the slightest hesitation. I've tested this over and over to make sure because it's so confusing to me.

After all the advice from everyone I had the transmission fluid changed at a shop that specializes in these types of cars with genuine Honda fluid. He even pulled the fluid off the shelf to show me that's they use. I then brought it back 1 week later after driving it around 150 miles on the highway and in city traffic. Unfortunately, nothing changed even after the 2nd fluid change.

I've only put on a total of 2,350 miles in the past 7 months since I work from home. Then on October 12 I started driving a lot more frequently because I got back to the gym 4 days a week with a 10 mile round trip each time. I noticed after a couple of weeks of this driving style the hesitation just disappeared. It was strange because it was literally all of a sudden (one day) that I noticed it and then every day after that I kept testing it with slight hesitation and it's exactly how it used to run. I even occasionally still test it with slight hesitation and to my amazement it's perfect. I didn't even have to test it before because it was so noticeable every day I drove it. In all I've I only put on 2,350 miles in 7 months but the frequency of my driving changed on October 12.

The thing that has me very confused is that I didn't have any fluid changes since those last two changes seven months ago, and I haven't needed to add any fluid, so I don't understand how any antifreeze or anything could have come out of the transmission. I'm also confused because the transmission shop and even the foreign shop that did the two fluid changes stated that I would need a new transmission eventually because it was only going to get worse. But instead it got better literally the day I noticed it and it's been for weeks. It seems to me like a new transmission is not necessary in the future at least for the issue I had.

Does anyone have any idea what happened here?

Do you think it's possible it could come back?

Do you think something changed because I started driving it more frequently or something else may have happened here?
In most cases with radiator failure, the ATF gets pumped into the radiator. The coolant doesn't necessarily get pumped into the transmission.
If the guy would have done the drain and fills with Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife (only). Your problem would have ended then. At least everyone knows to never put Dex/Merc in there Honda.
Thanks for posting.
 

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@seeker1111, you had two transmission fluid changes since the wrong fluid was added originally? Was it a complete drain with flush or just from the transmission pan bolt? If you have receipts with what procedure and or how many quarts/gallons were used each time will help know.
Good news either way and it could fail sooner, worst case scenario but.... it shifting properly now is great news and I would not be overly concerned.

I think the cycles of driving at running temperature with proper conditioners; plus the correct viscosity helped resolve your issue. 150 miles is nothing and not enough time for the fluid to do much of anything other then sit.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
@seeker1111, you had two transmission fluid changes since the wrong fluid was added originally? Was it a complete drain with flush or just from the transmission pan bolt? If you have receipts with what procedure and or how many quarts/gallons were used each time will help know.
Good news either way and it could fail sooner, worst case scenario but.... it shifting properly now is great news and I would not be overly concerned.

I think the cycles of driving at running temperature with proper conditioners; plus the correct viscosity helped resolve your issue. 150 miles is nothing and not enough time for the fluid to do much of anything other then sit.
@Spector thanks for the reply. Correct. I had one fluid change and then another one week later at the same shop per their recommendation. I just checked both receipts and they say:

"Recommended flush out fluid and test drive for 50-100 miles and flush fluid out again".

"Transmission drain and refill. Remove drain plug and evacuate transmission. Replenish with new fluid, replace filter if equipped. Road test vehicle".

It shows 3 quarts were used each time.

It runs great and there is absolutely no hesitation. When I had my oil changed last week I told them not to do anything with the transmission fluid so there's no risk of the wrong fluid being put in. Since it's running great do you think I should just leave it alone or have another fluid change done at that shop at some point? I had planned to just leave it alone since it runs perfect and I didn't want to cause any issues. What do you think?
 

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@seeker1111. Not sure on total fluid capacity for that transmission but an online search states around 6.9 quarts for the 2.4 liter engine. If so, they replaced at least a third of the total. Which is why it took a second change and sometime to clear the issue. Not sure if you mentioned how long it was driven with the incorrect fluid. If not long; I would guess little damage was done.

I personally would do one more change in the future if you plan on keeping this ride for the long haul. Otherwise forget about it and be happy the issue resolved. Glad you caught it!!!
 

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If you are only replacing 3 quarts, it's not a flush, it is a single drain and replace (d/r). 1 d/r = 43% new, 2nd d/r = 68% new, 3rd d/r=82% new, 4th d/r = 90% new. If I were you, I'd replace 2 more times. It will not hurt - provide them the fluid if you are worried about mistakes, or get a better mechanic. There is also an ATF filter behind the front bumper that you can replace if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
In most cases with radiator failure, the ATF gets pumped into the radiator. The coolant doesn't necessarily get pumped into the transmission.
If the guy would have done the drain and fills with Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife (only). Your problem would have ended then. At least everyone knows to never put Dex/Merc in there Honda.
Thanks for posting.
@NailGrease somehow I missed this post. That's very interesting. I just assumed it mixed in the transmission because of the slipping problems. I forgot someone else mentioned to me a while back, that due to the pressure, the ATF would have pumped into the radiator, and there shouldn't have been anything going into the transmission from the radiator. Do you think it's probable there was never any antifreeze/water in the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
@seeker1111. Not sure on total fluid capacity for that transmission but an online search states around 6.9 quarts for the 2.4 liter engine. If so, they replaced at least a third of the total. Which is why it took a second change and sometime to clear the issue. Not sure if you mentioned how long it was driven with the incorrect fluid. If not long; I would guess little damage was done.

I personally would do one more change in the future if you plan on keeping this ride for the long haul. Otherwise forget about it and be happy the issue resolved. Glad you caught it!!!
@Spector That makes sense. Maybe that's why he recommended to do it while I was there and then come back in a week after driving about 100 miles and have it done again. I barely drove it with with the incorrect fluid before bringing it to the new shop to have it changed.

I think it's a good idea to have another change done since I have driven a lot more frequently and put a few thousand miles on the car since then. I guess I was concerned if I have another change, after running perfectly for months, that it might stir things up or something and bring the slipping back. That probably doesn't make any sense to think that way.
 

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If you are only replacing 3 quarts, it's not a flush, it is a single drain and replace (d/r). 1 d/r = 43% new, 2nd d/r = 68% new, 3rd d/r=82% new, 4th d/r = 90% new. If I were you, I'd replace 2 more times. It will not hurt - provide them the fluid if you are worried about mistakes, or get a better mechanic. There is also an ATF filter behind the front bumper that you can replace if you want.
@kw_da that's interesting about the percentages each time you do a d/r. I do trust the new shop to use the proper fluid, especially since they were highly recommended, and the first thing the owner showed me was the actual quarts of the genuine Honda ATF they use.

I wonder if they changed that ATF filter. It states on both receipts, "replace filter if equipped", but there is no part charge. I'm more than happy to have 2 more changes done. I just didn't want to create any issues, or have the slipping come back, so thanks for mentioning it won't hurt. How many miles would you recommend driving it in between each of the d/r?
 
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