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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

My car is getting to 90k miles and the dealer recommended doing a 90k maintenance last time I was there.

They told me they will be performing a regular maintenance (oil and filter change, transmission fluid change, tire rotation, etc...)

PLUS:

Power steering flush: $154
Induction clean: $173

Total for the 90k service would be $439 and cents.

Does this sounds about right?
Recommendations?

Thanks!
R.
 

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Change spark plugs since I believe they're only rated to 100k. You just need a deep socket, a magnet-on-a-stick (to get plug out), and some anti-seize for the new threads.

Power steering flush you can do yourself for $30. Turkey baster the reservoir, fill with fluid, turn wheel left and right, rinse and repeat a few times.

Induction clean probably just means cleaning the throttle body. Again, something that can be done for $5 worth of TB cleaner.

If you haven't done the serp belt, good opportunity to do it. The belt costs $20. The tool to get the belt off costs $50. The dealer will charge you well over $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the prompt response!

When I asked what the induction cleaning was they said "this would break all the carbon in your engine and we will take it out".
 

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Facepalm...sounds like a Seafoam treatment or some engine oil treatment to me (dumping a solvent into the oil fill, running engine, and then draining oil) which you don't need if you've been keeping up on your oil changes and use good gas. Not needed, and you could do it yourself for a few bucks if you wanted to anyways.

The service manual covers how to do everything you could ever want to do to our cars and more: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69098
(the dealer techs do have access to a service manual that provides better pictures and more "complete" instructions, but not by much).
 

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Skip the stupid induction clean.
 

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Did you / do you flush out your brake lines and cylinders? Consider it if you don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you / do you flush out your brake lines and cylinders? Consider it if you don't.
Bought the car with 50k miles, the previous owner ALWAYS took it to the dealer for service (not sure if good or bad given the dealerships reputation, but at least way better than no service history at all :) ). I'm not sure if this was ever done to the car, I haven't done it.

Will check on the service manual. Thanks!
 

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Bought the car with 50k miles, the previous owner ALWAYS took it to the dealer for service (not sure if good or bad given the dealerships reputation, but at least way better than no service history at all :) ). I'm not sure if this was ever done to the car, I haven't done it.

Will check on the service manual. Thanks!
The hardest part about brake bleeding is removing the tires. $15 for my kit of stuff to make bleeding a 1 man job:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=96105

Remove tires, start front left and work your way clockwise around car. Put tubing on bleeder. Crack it open, pump brakes 10 times, add more brake fluid, rinse repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, after getting your feedback this is my 90k maintenance:

1) Change engine oil and filter.
2) Change spark plugs (should I get OEM or is there a better brand?).
3) Change front rotors and pads (just in time).
4) Brake fluid flush.
5) Power steering fluid flush. (Need to check for the amount of fluid to buy).

I'm on the fence with the serp belt though.

Thanks!
R.
 

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You can really just inspect the belt. If it looks cracked or whatever then it needs to be replaced. If it looks OK then don't. It's fiber reinforced so it shouldn't catastrophically fail unless you seriously neglect it.

I would say about 1L total of power steering fluid should do it (I think that's 2 bottles). The reservoir is 500mL or so.

2 bottles of brake fluid should be plenty for 20 pedal pumps of each wheel. More than enough to completely run all the fluid through the system.

Spark plugs, I'd just go OEM. Throw it on to your brake fluid and power steering fluid order. Make sure you have some nickel anti-seize on hand (if you go OEM, there's a chance the plugs will come pre-anti-seized as was the case when I replaced my O2 sensor).

Rotors and pads you don't have to go OEM. Whatever Autozone sells will work fine (Duralast, Wagner, Raysbestos, etc).

Don't forget to drain and fill the tranny fluid. I do 1 drain and fill every oil change, but if you're not crazy like me you should just to 3x drain and fills every 30k miles. There is a drain bolt, but you have to remove the splash guard to get at it (the slots were cut for the V6 drain bolt position, for some reason).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks @drowned12!

The belt looks good, not cracked at all, I will give it a regular inspection now than I'm aware.

I had been following the tranny drain & refill as per the maintenance minder, so I think I have that one.

I will go OEM with the spark plugs then. I ordered NAPA rotors and Wagner ThermoQuite pads, I think I'm going to see an improvement on the brakes.

Thanks again for the info!
 

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Don't forget to drain and fill the tranny fluid. I do 1 drain and fill every oil change, but if you're not crazy like me you should just to 3x drain and fills every 30k miles.
Well, I'm not crazy like you :lmao: , but I do change my trans fluid/filter every 30k.

As for the brake flush, I don't think it in the maintenance manual. It's just one of the Honda recommended service things every 3 years or 30k miles. So I do it. It's cheap insurance.

I used Centric rotors and Centric ceramic pads on my Civic. My wife says the brakes are crazy good. Should I be worried? :paranoid:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have heard very good things about centric rotors, but a friend recommended NAPA so I'm giving them a try, Centric were on my list. :thmsup:

On a different subject, where do you guys buy OEM parts from? I have used http://www.bernardiparts.com/ in the past but not sure if there is any better player out there.

Thanks!
 

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I mostly use Majestic Honda parts: https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
They charge a $5 order fee, but it usually gets canceled out by their slightly cheaper parts prices. Never had issues with them. They're based on east coast so ground shipping takes a while for me.

I've used HondaPartsUnlimited, but only for emergencies where I need the part now (because they're a PHX based dealership, I get charged sales tax). I didn't really like dealing with them...I don't remember why but I think there was a lack of responsiveness at the time.

I've also used CollegeHillsHonda for accessory stuff like the door handle pockets.

I'm using http://www.ebhparts.com/ right now because they had the cheapest price on the AC clutch set (about 4% cheaper). Should be delivered on Monday, but they were prompt on shipping.


I love that we're totally spoiled for parts with our Accords. Anything breaks you can buy the OEM part to fix it, and you can buy them for years and years to come.
 

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Get a new oil bolt crush washer, only the NAPA ULTRA premium rotors are good, OEM spark plugs were Denso for the 6 cyl., NGK for the 4 cyl. both iridium, buy them @ Advance Auto, etc. Whatever brand of ps fluid you get make sure it says for Honda/Acura, Prestone Asian, NAPA, Honda oem, etc.
 

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Why wait for the drain plug to leak or get rounded?
Well, according to your logic, you may change yours every oil change, or as often as you like, but suggesting everyone to change the Oil Pan Drain Plug "just in case it may leak, and/or get rounded in the future" is just tossing money down the drain.
 
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