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Discussion Starter #1
I have connected an amplifier and sub, which sounded OK. I then connected and amplifier for the rear speakers, and it sounds OK. I am coming to the realization that the Factory Head Unit (premium sound system) is filtering the output too much for my taste. I am using Line Out Converters, and I have found the filtering is as follows:

-Front Speakers = Seem to get a nice, full range signal
-Rear Speakers = Get a bassless, tinney sound, and even when amplified contains no bass or depth whatsoever
-Subwoofer = Sounds OK, but it is filtered heavily as well, keeping mid-bass out of my subwoofer and making lots of songs sound bassless, and others boom heavily

At this point, do I have any option other than to get another head unit and a dash kit? Is there any way I can get a good signal from the head unit, without being heavily filtered? I like to do my own filtering with my amplifiers, not have some already filtered signal prevent me from tuning my system. Can I grab inputs prior to the factory amplifier? :nuts:
 

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You need to get an Lc6i by Audio Control. (I got a used one for $60 on eBay). It's a special type of line out converter that also restores all the frequencies that the HU filters out. Our HU's have what's called "bass roll off" which works to reduce bass signal as we raise the volume. They added this feature so that the cheap OEM speakers don't distort at higher volumes and higher bass. Be sure to connect the Lc6i AFTER the amp since it requires high-level inputs. I'm adding one (and a passive eq) in the next week or two. Maybe I can tell you how it sounds. Good luck with yours.
 

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I agree, that the signal processor type device would solve the problem. My frustration stems from the fact that I started with the subwoofer, then used the LOC on the Rear output, only to find that output overly filtered to really sound good. I am little low on cash, so I cannot get that AudioControl LOC device. If I am going to spend much more money, I will go ahead and get a head unit and dash kit, because that isn't really that expensive (dash kit = $50, Head Unit $99 to $200, or more of course).

I am very interested in how your project comes along, in particular, I want to know if the Front channel output has the full range of sound, or if it is filtered too much also.

So, with the AudioControl Device, it can combine the signal and output it how I want? That might not be too bad, if I can get someone to tap into the front speaker channels and get that nice signal to the that device, then get my midbass and vocal depth back!!
 

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I recommend the Lc6i for a few reasons. In my opinion, a new HU with a dash kit does not look very good. I also understand it's made of cheap quality plastic. Secondly, you would lose a couple of features I like, for example, steering wheel controls, and the self-adjusting volume at different speeds. Also, the Lc6i sends a higher voltage signal to your amps. Higher than regular Line Out Converters. In this way, they don't have to work so hard (gains can be set lower), and as such, sound clearer.
When you say, "combine the signal and output it how I want," I'm not quite sure what that means. If you want a full range of frequencies, yes, it will do that. It will not EQ the sound for you however.
I wish I could tell you now how all this would sound, but I'm waiting for my Alpine MSV-F300 4-channel amp and Clarion ESQ746 (eq) to ship. I have high hopes. Like I said, I'll try to let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info. I have been reading more threads on this site, and found a few that go into great detail about the Head Unit. Turns out, its not a bad head unit, and I would gain little and give up a little to install an aftermarket one.

I am not going to dive in to getting the Audiocontrol L6i just yet, but as you said it does seem like the perfect solution. I like that it will output a full range signal, and allow my Amp Crossovers to control the frequency range of the speakers.

My system is a Cadence 12" in a sealed box, on Pheonix Gold x600 Mono Amp, and a capacitor, and LOC for the Sub Out. Sounds pretty good, but some midbass tones, I can tell are playing and making my rear view mirror shake, but not making a whole lot of sound sometimes. Low bass is great and overall bass is clean.

Ive got 2 x Infinity Primus 6.5' Coaxials in the rear. I had a fun time converting the factory speaker into an adapter for the Infinity Speaker. Had to clip off and break some plastic to get it to fit, but got a good seal in the end and did not have to drill. They are hooked to a kicker 150 RMS amp, on another LOC feeding off the rear speaker lines. The sound pretty good, but I swear the "Bass Rolloff" is very active on those rear speakers. I hooked the rear channel to my sub amp and it was quiet, no low frequencies for it to amplify..

I have some Infinity Kappa Coaxials on the way for the front doors, and I plan to just run them off factory power for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Audiocontrol lc6i is the solution

I ordered an audiocontrol lc6i and installed it. I will attempt to fill in the gaps for others who, like me, read and read but never got the entire story about how to install the lc6i.

1. The factory amp is behind the glove box in the 8th gen accord. Empty your glove box, then push the two sides of it at the top and it will open all the way down. You can access your cabin air filter there also. Look toward the right and you will see a black box with two sets of wire plugs in it. The one closest to you, with the thicker wires, is the one you need to splice into in order to connect your lc6i. I identified the wires based on info from another thread.
2. I wanted the lc6i to be in trunk, for easy access, and because the rear and sub outputs are already there. So I only spliced into the front left and front right speaker wires. They are -FL: +Dark Gray / -Purple, -FR: +Pink / -White.
3. Pull apart and cut off electrical tape from the two connecters until you have enough length to splice the wires. Cut the four wires mentioned above, strip them, and connect them to speaker wire which you will run to your trunk. The side of the wires closest to the plug are your "source" wires, which you will run to your main input on lc6i. The side of the wires that goes toward the radio are your "speaker/output" wires, which you will connect to your own amplifier, also presumably in the trunk.
4. You can pull up the plastic trim where the door meets the car, and run your speaker wires under that. Be sure that your amplifier power wires are not also run here, as it could cause noise on the wire. Also it is a good idea to mark the four wires so you dont mix them up and waste time.
5. Continue to run the wires through the trim in the rear as well, then under the seat cushion and finally into the trunk. Do not be nervous about removing the trim, as long as you are not too rough, you will not damage them and they should snap right back in. I zip-tied the wires along the way just to keep them from escaping in the future.
6. Connect your source left and right into the main input on the lc6i. You can also connect the rear speaker outputs and sub outputs to the lc6i. I chose the "sum" the signals and let my amp crossovers do the frequency filtering. To identify which wire is Positive or Negative, just face the speaker plug towards you, and positive will always be on the right, negative on the left. You can use speaker adapters if you want to maintain the factory speaker plugs.

Once you have the lc6i in place, you will no longer have filtered frequencies going to your speakers, or rather you can filter them to your liking. I hope this helps someone accomplish this goal more easily in the future!
 

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2010 2.4EX
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126 Posts
I have connected an amplifier and sub, which sounded OK.
I then connected and amplifier for the rear speakers, and it
sounds OK. I am coming to the realization that the Factory
Head Unit (premium sound system) is filtering the output too
much for my taste. I am using Line Out Converters, and I have
found the filtering is as follows:

-Front Speakers = Seem to get a nice, full range signal
-Rear Speakers = Get a bassless, tinney sound, and even
when amplified contains no bass or depth whatsoever
-Subwoofer = Sounds OK, but it is filtered heavily as well,
keeping mid-bass out of my subwoofer and making lots of
songs sound bassless, and others boom heavily

At this point, do I have any option other than to get another
head unit and a dash kit? Is there any way I can get a good
signal from the head unit, without being heavily filtered? I like
to do my own filtering with my amplifiers, not have some already
filtered signal prevent me from tuning my system. Can I grab
inputs prior to the factory amplifier? :nuts:
I know this thread is almost old enough to smell a bit, but the symptoms accordguy56 describes, particularly those in the middle parapraph, beginning with "Front Speakers - ...",
could be tied to the Active Noise Cancellation(ANC) employed in all 8th Gen. Accords except the base LX sedans and coupes.

Personally, I have noticed, since unplugging ANC from the back of my 2010 EX factory changer head unit, more consistent bass performance. Not deeper extension of the bass, just all of the bottom end that the radio and its speakers are capable of delivering, all of the time, even with the tone controls set flat.

Advice to other Accord drivers modifying their factory systems, adding to them, etc.:

Unplug ANC from your head units, or unplug the in-dash module for same(9th gen), and you might just decide to keep your factory systems the way they are! ;)
 
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