Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I ordered a set of brake pads from Brake Performance out of California and something doesn't look right.

I ordered the Hardware, Pads and Rotors for all four corners which I will say OEM rotors got over 60K and I believe only turned once.

Fronts were installed with no issues but coming to the rear is where the subject of this thread is.

Item #1: Hardware kit sent was wrong. I ordered the hardware kit separately as part of a purchase for my 2013 Ford Taurus brake replacement. Apparently they sent two sets of rear shim clips for my Taurus. Being at a remote site and no access to computer for verification I reluctantly re installed the OEM shims, cleaned and re greased the slide pins, and anti seized the Caliper Bracket and mounting hole bolts.

Item #2: New pads did not have the holes to mount the tension clips (The ones that keep the pads spread away from the rotors unless pedal is applied to reduce drag and wear on the new pads.)


Item #3: This is the part I am really questioning


There was only one tension spring per pad. These were OEM calipers and no reason to believe they were replaced before. The front pads had two and my Taurus had two per pad.) Is this correct or should I be looking for another set of tension springs?
 

·
Just here for the food
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Just to verify (because this messed me up before, too), when you say "shim", are you referring to the metal plate on the rear side of the pad or do you "mean" to refer to the metal clip that sits in the caliper bracket and holds the pads in place (pad retainer)?

I didn't put the tension clips/springs back on mine (rears) when I swapped out the pads the other day............. I should probably do that... lmao. Then again I didn't bother checking if the new pads even had holes for them. I have Posi-Quiet pads for the rears. I have to get back there again soon anyway to do the rotors once I get a decent enough impact tool to get the darn screws out >_<
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Shim: That would be choice 2. The metal clips that maintain the pads in the caliper. Retention/anti rattle clips I believe is another common name.


Springs are recommended to be replaced. If you can find the OEM tension springs I recommend replacing them as a way to prevent new pads from dragging on the rotor. I am still not sure why there is only one spring on each of the rear pads instead of two but I was not at the engineering meeting.

As for the screws I have a recommendation. AutoZone sells a tool for this. In the tool area for $10.00 You put the appropriate screwdriver tip (Provided in the tool) into the screw. I won't speak for your but my 11 Accord was one of the Phillips tips. Take a decent size hammer and give a few solid whacks. That should at least loosen the screws enough to finish off with a ratchet. This tool has a Left and Right setting make sure it is set to L first. The head of the tool has a impact socket adapter 3/8" You can remove the body of the tool after verifying the screw is loosened and with the 3/8 ratchet you can finish removing with the ratchet and tip.

The screw may not look like it is turning with the tool but try it after a few hits it should be loose.
 

·
Just here for the food
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Shim: That would be choice 2. The metal clips that maintain the pads in the caliper. Retention/anti rattle clips I believe is another common name.


Springs are recommended to be replaced. If you can find the OEM tension springs I recommend replacing them as a way to prevent new pads from dragging on the rotor. I am still not sure why there is only one spring on each of the rear pads instead of two but I was not at the engineering meeting.

As for the screws I have a recommendation. AutoZone sells a tool for this. In the tool area for $10.00 You put the appropriate screwdriver tip (Provided in the tool) into the screw. I won't speak for your but my 11 Accord was one of the Phillips tips. Take a decent size hammer and give a few solid whacks. That should at least loosen the screws enough to finish off with a ratchet. This tool has a Left and Right setting make sure it is set to L first. The head of the tool has a impact socket adapter 3/8" You can remove the body of the tool after verifying the screw is loosened and with the 3/8 ratchet you can finish removing with the ratchet and tip.

The screw may not look like it is turning with the tool but try it after a few hits it should be loose.
Gotcha. Yeah those are the pad retainers. Shims are the plates that are (typically) fused to the rear of the pads.

These guys right here are pad retainers


My new rear brake pads came with all new hardware (including the springs). I just opted to not replace them at the moment since I have to get back there again sooner than later anyway. And I was tired. It was well past midnight haha. But yeah only one came out on both sides, from the bottom-side. I was lost lol. Definitely gonna put the new springs in next time I tackle the rotors.

Yep I believe the Phillips head is a #3. Not sure what drive the impact driver I have is, maybe a 3/8". Guess I've gotta take a trip to auto zone again lol. It's funny because when I was going to my friend's house the other day to do my brakes, I considered stopping at auto zone and picking up any "better" tools that I might need (mainly an impact driver), but I just ignored the impulse and kept on driving. And you see where that got me lmao
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Interesting twist #2:

Went to the original scheduled rotate/balance Brake system Flush (Almost five year old fluid)bleeding and since it was up on the lift anyway a Synthetic Blend O.L.F.

I asked about using the OEM pads and was shot down pretty quick because I didn't purchase them there. I know the policy but some places are more lax than others. Basically I started over again on the brake job rear. They refused to put pads back on since a very small drop of Anti Seize got on the pad and spread. Here is the twist the pads that they got from NAPA did not have the holes for the tension springs or springs either. Mechanic said that the springs are not required in newer models. I understand aftermarket and OEM differences but there should be consistency and either all have the springs or all not.

Final verdict, cleaned up area, installed the brake pads from NAPA (Minus return springs but kit did include the retainer clips so not a total loss.) Returned OEM pads to dealer and system bleed/flush O.L.F. and balance/rotation as per previous schedule. I will ask for refund on the Brake Performance pads.

$240 ish after getting the $90 credit back from the OEM pads. That includes

O.L.F. Valvoline Synthetic blend
Rear brake pad R/R (Ceramic pads from NAPA)
Brake system flush, install new fluid and bleed system.

I am not as positive about Brake Performance with this fiasco, in my defense though I used the same vendor for my Taurus and had no issues. Parts were correct, on time and easy to install. Even the Fronts of the Accord were perfect.

As for the impact tool probably a good use of $10.00 and it can be used for other stuck screw tasks.

Also since the screws are used for assembly line safety the chances of the vehicle being that high again while moving are very slim. If you replace your own brakes it probably wont be that high. If you have a shop or dealer do them then the rotors wont be moving. Long Story short, the screws are your discretion if you want to reinstall. In my case the head got beat up so we elected to leave them out.



Note: If you choose to go with OEM pads remember there are two return spring holes per pad but only one spring. Installation instructions show it on the bottom but that leaves the top in a position to get dragged by the rotor. I recommend either finding two more return springs or not using any at all.
 

·
Just here for the food
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
That's a fiasco indeed lol. Glad you got it all settled though!

Yeah I didn't reinstall the rotors screws in the front because I sure as hell didn't want to deal with fighting to get them out again, and I certainly won't replace them for the rears once I get that done. I'll never buy OEM brake pads/rotors again either. Running Akebono ProACT787s + Wagner E-coated rotors in the front, and Centric Posi-Quiet pads + [eventually] Centric E-coated rotors in the rear. Currently the stock OEM rotors are in the rear. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I agree no OEM but now that I know what they are for I would like to have the tension springs. No sense crying over spilled milk now though.

I will give Honda credit at least for this one almost 63.5K mileage on OEM rotors and pads. I believe rotors were turned once but other than that nothing.

Thanks for the assist. Also remember I added a system flush and bleed so basically a new system new rotors, pads, fresh fluid. I have no reason to suspect anything less than another 60K from this set.

Side note same mileage on OEM Michelin Tires and still reporting 5/32 tread. Probably not enough for the winter but probably enough to October/November. Costco just finished the Michelin sale as part of their rotation. She should have enough tread to get the next time Michelin gets back to the Costco rotation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again for the help teezy!

I have one follow up question on the rear tension springs. The springs that keep tension away from the pad to prevent dragging unless pedal is depressed.

I will admit that I didn't initially know what these clips were for the first couple of times, now that I know what they are for I want to keep using them if necessary.


OEM pads that were removed had the springs, OEM pads that were purchased had them. Here is the question.


Are they required? I can see the side of yes being that they keep tension off the pads until pedal application.

The second part of that question is if they are required why is there only 1 per side instead of two like the fronts?



The NAPA ones that the shop used (Made by Wagner according to NAPA) DID NOT have the springs or even holes for the springs.

I could see if they weren't required if the OEM didn't have them but with the inconsistencies in vendors I am confused.


Here is what we have so far.

AutoZone C-MAX NO SPRINGS but Clips provided

NAPA SAME

OEM HONDA Springs included (1) per side NO pad retainers.

Can anyone with either more Accord experience or maybe a shop tech explain whether they are required and if not why?

If not required why are they still included in OEM pads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Finally had a chance to visit local dealer and got the typical non committal answer.

"OEM rear pads are shipped with one spring per side. They only recommend one per side and on the bottom. They do not know of any negligible side effects of using two per side if two per side are used." I looked at the parts catalog for pre 2008 Accord models and they show NO tension springs used.

Any input from service techs or more experienced forum senior members? My instinct tells me to put two per side but then again I tend to be more detail oriented especially with brakes and also with other peoples vehicles.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top