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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 accord SE and it is having issues starting. It will not do it every time but sometimes it will not start without being jumped off or hooked to a charger for a few minutes. The battery checks fine and the starter is not the issue. I have not been able to find anything anywhere about the 2011 specifically but I have seen things about the main relay on older models. I can not find anything that shows me where this relay is at on the '11. Does anyone know where that relay is or have any suggestions where to start trying to fix this problem?

Thanks,
Scott
 

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08 Accord EX-L (I4)- 138K
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23 Posts
Scott,

In an attempt to help you isolate the problem, during the times your car decides it does not want to start:


1) Do the dashboard lights, radio, etc… come on and stay on when you are attempting to start?

2) Will it begin to crank normally and then just stop cranking completely?

3) When the engine doesn't want to crank, do you hear clicking noises? or is there simply dead silence?
 

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lol wut
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My 2011 lx just started developing this issue too!! It's so weird... I put a multimeter to the battery after not having driven the car for 1 full day and it checked out OK.. Hovering around 13.1 volts. Charges fine when it's on at just above 14v. But sometimes it just feels like the battery is weak when I'm starting or something because it really struggles to start at times and it will even get to the point where while I'm cranking it, the car will die for a split second and then start up right away and my dash will light up like a christmas tree lol. I'm guessing it's just the stock battery though because these Honda batteries are pretty notorious for sucking majorly. My cousin's Acura RDX randomly dies in the middle of the road or won't start up even though the battery charges fine and alternator checks out OK.
 

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08 Accord EX-L (I4)- 138K
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ricerocket:

Based on your description, it sounds like you have a dead spot on your starter's armature. In fact, a friend of mine just changed a starter on his 2003 accord a little while back for a similar problem. Sometimes it would crank normally, then stop for a second, then continue to crank normally. Other times, it would not crank at all (dead silence from starter). Then after several more start attempts, it would finally start cranking.

You can check your battery to confirm it's OK, otherwise I would go after that starter. Also verify the wires to/from your starter are secure and not damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Scott,

In an attempt to help you isolate the problem, during the times your car decides it does not want to start:


1) Do the dashboard lights, radio, etc… come on and stay on when you are attempting to start?

2) Will it begin to crank normally and then just stop cranking completely?

3) When the engine doesn't want to crank, do you hear clicking noises? or is there simply dead silence?
This happened again yesterday after my wife had driven home from work. The car has sat in the driveway for about 20 minutes and when we started to leave again it happened. I took note of what happened and these are the answers to your questions. Hope this helps some more.

1) everything will work as normal when it decides to do this.
2) At times it will try to crank but never catches and at others it will not do anything.
3) When it does this I get a clicking noise from somewhere under the hood. I have not been able to pinpoint the location yet.

Something that I thought about trying was replacing the ignition relay. I am not sure if this could be bad and if so if it could even cause this problem but for less than $7.00 I thought it was worth a shot.
 

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08 Accord EX-L (I4)- 138K
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Sorry to keep querying, but:

1) During the times it cranks but doesn't catch, does it crank normally? or does it sound like the starter is struggling to crank the engine?

2) Regarding the clicking noise: it is a fast, constant clicking noise when you are attempting to crank the engine?

If your starter is struggling to crank and/or making a fast clicking noise while turning the key, then I would go back to your battery and charging system, as this would be the likely culprit. You can take your vehicle to an auto zone or similar store that performs diagnostics for free, and have them check both of these items. Verify your alternator is putting out a good regulated voltage between 14-15vDC. Anything lower than 14 volts is cause for rejection. Also confirm your battery cables are secure and have no corrosion build-up, as this can prevent your battery from taking on a good charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry to keep querying, but:

1) During the times it cranks but doesn't catch, does it crank normally? or does it sound like the starter is struggling to crank the engine?

2) Regarding the clicking noise: it is a fast, constant clicking noise when you are attempting to crank the engine?

If your starter is struggling to crank and/or making a fast clicking noise while turning the key, then I would go back to your battery and charging system, as this would be the likely culprit. You can take your vehicle to an auto zone or similar store that performs diagnostics for free, and have them check both of these items. Verify your alternator is putting out a good regulated voltage between 14-15vDC. Anything lower than 14 volts is cause for rejection. Also confirm your battery cables are secure and have no corrosion build-up, as this can prevent your battery from taking on a good charge.
When it cranks but does not catch it sounds like it is struggling and the clicking is very fast and constant. The first time this happened I took it back to Honda as it was under warranty and they checked the battery and it checked fine. They said it was showing a fault code that indicated something had drained it. The next time it happened I took it to autozone and they checked it and the battery and alternator both checked out fine. I have checkd the battery cables and they are both tight and do not have any corrosion on them. I will check the alternator and battery both when I get home tomorrow and see what I come up with on those. Thanks for the help with this. I am not a mechanic nor am I very mechanically minded when it comes to cars so any and all help you are giving me is greatly appreciated. :)
 

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08 Accord EX-L (I4)- 138K
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No problem at all. I hope the information ultimately proves useful.

If the output voltage of the alternator is satisfactory and the battery is testing good, then you should consider testing for a parasitic drain with an amp meter. With the car turned completely off (ie. interior lights off and headlights turned to off not auto, etc…), test for parasitic battery drainage as follows:

*Wait 30 minutes to allow the car to go into "sleep" mode before continuing*

1) Remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
2) Place the positive lead of the amp meter on the negative battery cable terminal.
3) Place the negative lead of the amp meter on the negative battery post.
4) Set the amp meter to milliamps and record your reading.
5) Result should be no more than 35-50 milliamps (or 0.035-0.050 amps).

If the battery is losing any more than that, begin investigating the cause behind the parasitic drain. To aid in isolating the problem, pull the fuses/relays one at a time until the current level drops below 35-50 milliamps.

Cheers!
 
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