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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to put together a simple installation for my new 2013 Accord Sport. I love the car but the factory stereo was terrible. Lucky for me there's no factory amps with the Sport trim, and a simple 4 speaker setup, and an additional bonus - a flat signal from the stock stereo. Goals of the installation are to keep everything hidden with an OEM appearance, and stay within a budget. I have two small kids so having full access to the trunk was an absolute must, that meant mounting the amps under the seats.

Equipment
I knew since the car was brand new that I wanted to do a "single brand" installation. I know that keeping everything one brand doesn't really matter at all but I always thought it would be cool to keep everything in the family if you will. After seeing the newer RF products a few years ago at a shop I was intrigued. The more I read about their components and amplifiers, the more impressed I was so I decided to go with Rockford. Front speakers are the T2652-S components running active. Tweeters would be mounted in factory sail panels from the EX trim level. They are powered by a Rockford P500X4D (now discontinued but still available on the cheap at VM Innovations). I am running OEM rears connected to an old school Sony XM-3021 because I read that my processor; an Alpine PXE-H660 actually produces a better image when using rears. Subwoofers are Rockford also, two P2 8" powered by a Rockford Prime 750-1D.

I didn't take alot of pictures during the install but here's a few if you're interested:

Wiring Snakepit:

You can see the speaker wires that were spliced into the oem harness running along the tunnel. On the passenger side you see the RCA's coming in from the trunk where the Alpine PXE-H660 will be mounted.

Anyone remember these RCA's?


Door Treatment:



I used the corrugated plastic for sale signs from Home Depot to fill in the giant holes in the doors.





Passenger Side Amp Rack:


Driver Side Amp Rack:


Processor Mounted to the back of the rear seat:

Wires have been cleaned up and tied since then. When the seat is up they all tuck into the carpet.

Subs:


I am very happy with the way it sounds only with the quick and dirty Imprint 4 position calibration. When I have some additional time this week I will complete a 6 position calibration using the Imprint software along with tweaking my gains and time alignment. The Rockford T2 components sound great. I was a little worried about the aluminum tweeter being to bright but they sound fantastic to me. Midbass in the sealed doors is very rich and engaging.
 

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Looks good. I ended up doing something as well to maintain the factory look. Components up front with the EX tweeter sails, Polk coax's in back and a PPI amp mounted under the rear deck. I lost zero trunk space. On top of that, I ran speaker wire from both front doors back, and ran an Add a Fuse for my remote on. Wired my speaker wires to a LOC and it works great. No sub yet, but probably down the road after the kids don't need so much luggage. Didn't need to do anything behind the dash. Just need to clean up my wires a little under the rear deck. Always harder to make it clean while hanging upside down.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can you provide insight as to where in the firewall that you ran your 12v hot wire to the battery?
I had the same question before my install. If you put your head down in the driver footwell and look to the left of the clutch pedal, above the plastic trim you will see two unused grommets. Pop one out and make a hole in it. Feeding the power wire through one of them will put the wire in between the left front fender and the chassis. I popped some of the trim off where the driver side hood hinge is in order to help pull the wire through. Once I got up to where the battery was I fed it through and put wire loom on it so it looks OEM. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks good. I ended up doing something as well to maintain the factory look. Components up front with the EX tweeter sails, Polk coax's in back and a PPI amp mounted under the rear deck. I lost zero trunk space. On top of that, I ran speaker wire from both front doors back, and ran an Add a Fuse for my remote on. Wired my speaker wires to a LOC and it works great. No sub yet, but probably down the road after the kids don't need so much luggage. Didn't need to do anything behind the dash. Just need to clean up my wires a little under the rear deck. Always harder to make it clean while hanging upside down.


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I think I may need to put an Add a Fuse on for my remote lead also. The Alpine PXE-H660 has signal sensing and creates a remote turn on lead, but the problem is, especially while on a phone call, is that the deck is putting out such low voltage that the processor thinks the deck is off.
 

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I think I may need to put an Add a Fuse on for my remote lead also. The Alpine PXE-H660 has signal sensing and creates a remote turn on lead, but the problem is, especially while on a phone call, is that the deck is putting out such low voltage that the processor thinks the deck is off.
Yeah they work great. I used the empty Moonroof fuse slot for mine. Plugs right in.
 

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I had the same question before my install. If you put your head down in the driver footwell and look to the left of the clutch pedal, above the plastic trim you will see two unused grommets. Pop one out and make a hole in it. Feeding the power wire through one of them will put the wire in between the left front fender and the chassis. I popped some of the trim off where the driver side hood hinge is in order to help pull the wire through. Once I got up to where the battery was I fed it through and put wire loom on it so it looks OEM. Hope this helps.
Funny you say that, I saw those grommets the other day, but I was convinced you couldn't get to the fender part. Guess if you could do it, I'll give it another shot. Any chance you could post a picture of under the hood where it comes out?

Thanks! :thmsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Funny you say that, I saw those grommets the other day, but I was convinced you couldn't get to the fender part. Guess if you could do it, I'll give it another shot. Any chance you could post a picture of under the hood where it comes out?

Thanks! :thmsup:
It would be hard to show and it would mean popping off the trim panels again around the hood hinge and windshield wiper. Trust me, if you start feeding wire through the grommet and you take those pieces off or just loosen them you will see the wire. Once you get it through, pull it up and over the inner fender liner and then it will be behind the headlight. From there you can make the connection to the battery.
 

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Funny you say that, I saw those grommets the other day, but I was convinced you couldn't get to the fender part. Guess if you could do it, I'll give it another shot. Any chance you could post a picture of under the hood where it comes out?

Thanks! :thmsup:
You basically have to look between the fender and the inner fender. There is a space behind the inner wheel well. Use a flashlight. If you have small hands, you can reach in and grab the power cable. Otherwise you have to use a hanger or take the inner wheel well out a little bit. I have medium size hands and I gouged them up pretty good doing it. But, in all, it only took about 10 mins. Make sure you give yourself enough slack under the hood. There is a hole in the inner fender that allows you to feed the power wire through without looping it over top to get in the engine bay. You will see what I'm talking about when you start fishing it through.


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