[x2aws]

Who is doing the brain work on this swap? I could see an engineer at the Honda factory doing something like this, because he would have all the right people helping him. I suspect even someone with that knowledge and those resources would consider this swap not worth the trouble.

If you don’t mind me asking, what do you mean brain work? I think some people make this stuff out harder than what it needs to be. An ECU is an ECU. You need to make sure that if the immob needs changed, you change it, if the MICU needs to match, you match it... but at the end the ECU does nothing but the engine, the MICU handles the inside. If the 9th gen is like my 8th the MICU and ECU don’t need to match, you can use a sedan MICU along with a Coupe ECU and have zero issues.

I think you guys are over thinking this just a tad unless someone can actually POINT to an area in the service manual that shows there are speciality components that either car has that makes them operate that the other cannot have (off the top of my head I cannot think of any) these worries and criticizing that’s going on is unfounded and not based on knowledge. I’ve always said, just because you don’t know how to do something doesn’t mean that it cannot be done. Now it may be easy.... or it may end up being simple. If I would have listened to all the people on My 8th Gen back in 2011 I would have never started my paddle shifter project. Thankfully I’m hard headed.

 

[BLCKFLSH]

If you don’t mind me asking, what do you mean brain work? I think some people make this stuff out harder than what it needs to be. An ECU is an ECU. You need to make sure that if the immob needs changed, you change it, if the MICU needs to match, you match it... but at the end the ECU does nothing but the engine, the MICU handles the inside. If the 9th gen is like my 8th the MICU and ECU don’t need to match, you can use a sedan MICU along with a Coupe ECU and have zero issues.

I think you guys are over thinking this just a tad unless someone can actually POINT to an area in the service manual that shows there are speciality components that either car has that makes them operate that the other cannot have (off the top of my head I cannot think of any) these worries and criticizing that’s going on is unfounded and not based on knowledge. I’ve always said, just because you don’t know how to do something doesn’t mean that it cannot be done. Now it may be easy.... or it may end up being simple. If I would have listened to all the people on My 8th Gen back in 2011 I would have never started my paddle shifter project. Thankfully I’m hard headed.

OK, just for instance the MICU in the automatic sedan communicates with the automatic shift position switch, the gauge cluster, and what else? What happens when the automatic shift position switch is no longer there? Will the MICU, the wiring harness, and the gauge cluster have to be changed?
And you're right, I don't know how all these systems work, but somebody doing this swap better know, or know someone who does. That's what I mean by "brain work". The OP never said who was the "expert" who knows how to make this all work? Is the OP the know-it-all? Or does the shop that's "working with him" know all this? I know a lot of people say "I'm installing this or that" when in reality, they are having someone else do it all, and they are simply paying the bill.

 

[x2aws]

OK, just for instance the MICU in the automatic sedan communicates with the automatic shift position switch, the gauge cluster, and what else? What happens when the automatic shift position switch is no longer there? Will the MICU, the wiring harness, and the gauge cluster have to be changed?
And you're right, I don't know how all these systems work, but somebody doing this swap better know, or know someone who does. That's what I mean by "brain work". The OP never said who was the "expert" who knows how to make this all work? Is the OP the know-it-all? Or does the shop that's "working with him" know all this? I know a lot of people say "I'm installing this or that" when in reality, they are having someone else do it all, and they are simply paying the bill.

MICU yes, needs changed, wiring, yes, gauge cluster..l well it will work,without it, but will not be a finished product.

Just a quick search the gauge cluster is the cheapest at only $85, then parts get scarce... you’ll spend about $850 to get yourself the dash wiring and the drivers MICU.

 

[philip1000rr]

So my original plan was going to be to try keeping the AT PCM firmware intact and running a manual transmission on the automatic PCM codebase. I figured I could jury rig the AT PCM with a series of tricks to fool the PCM into believing the automatic transmission was still there and shifting away. Things like running the PWM signals of the shift solenoids through low pass filters and converting them to constant DC voltage, hooking them to the gates of MOSFETs and using the FETs as line pressure switches, etc. I never fully fleshed that idea out, and looks like I can stop even thinking about that now. I got an alldata account and found a list of every single check engine code the car can generate, and no matter how well I can emulate a transmission through whatever circuit I design, it will trigger 'DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck OFF'. Basically, the AT PCM will look at input shaft speed and compare it to engine RPM, and if they don't match, it freaks out. The manual transmission doesn't have an input shaft speed sensor anyway, but the plan was going to be to emulate it based on known gear ratios. But no matter what I do, I can't spoof engine RPM because the PCM actually needs that to run the engine. So that's the end of the line for my 'lets just run the MT on the AT PCM firmware' idea.

Now time to study Plan B: Swap to a manual transmission and use Ktuner to flash the manual transmission codebase to my PCM. Yes, this poses new challenges, but unlike the 'emulate the automatic transmission and fool the PCM into thinking it's still there' idea, I haven't run into a dead end on this one yet.

For those that aren't aware - I didn't know this until I started really getting into this project - Automatic transmission V6 accords 2013-2017 use a motor called J35Y1. This is used in both sedan and coupe AT cars. V6 MT cars got a different 3.5L V6 named the J35Y2. I had always assumed all 9th gen V6 accords shared the same engine, but nope, the engines are different. So by virtue of all V6MT cars having the J35Y2, flashing the MT codebase to my PCM means flashing the J35Y2 codebase.

Main challenges of running my J35Y1 with the J35Y2 PCM firmware:

- J35Y2 has different compression ratio and cams than my J35Y1, god only knows what kind of problems I'm gonna run into running the J35Y2 firmware on my J35Y1. Worst case, I'll have to buy a J35Y2 used off wherever.
- The J35Y1 in my sedan has active front and rear engine mounts. They're fluid filled, and operated by the J35Y1 PCM firmware. The J35Y2 firmware won't be aware of the active mounts, and they'll probably default to being floppy and flaccid. Solutions include either swapping to J35Y2 mounts or just manually controlling them by running whatever the 'on' voltage is to spin the valves shut.
- And probably some more than I'm not thinking about yet

Somebody doing this swap better know, or know someone who does. That's what I mean by "brain work". The OP never said who was the "expert" who knows how to make this all work? Is the OP the know-it-all? Or does the shop that's "working with him" know all this? I know a lot of people say "I'm installing this or that" when in reality, they are having someone else do it all, and they are simply paying the bill.

There's no shop here. It's just you, me, the garage in my house, google, and an alldata subscription. I'm not even going to pretend that I know what I'm doing. I'm just making this up as I go. But I have already learned a lot in about a week as I sit around waiting for a transmission to turn up. And actually it feels like a solid plan and understanding is starting to form as I've spent time on this.

OK, just for instance the MICU in the automatic sedan communicates with the automatic shift position switch, the gauge cluster, and what else? What happens when the automatic shift position switch is no longer there? Will the MICU, the wiring harness, and the gauge cluster have to be changed?

No, I don't think so. I will get a Ktuner when the transmission arrives and I will be flashing the manual PCM codebase to it. The AT PCM uses an active low signal at PCM connector A pin 37 to assert the park gear selection. The MT PCM codebase uses this same pin 37 for the clutch pedal switch. I am still studying the wiring harness schematics, but as far as I can tell so far my AT Sedan dashboard wiring harness and MICU won't have a connector or circuit for the clutch pedal. Since the MT PCM codebase is going to require the clutch to be pressed for the car to start, the solution for that is going to be to connect the clutch pedal switch to pin 37 on PCM connector A.

Interesting thing is that the Park lockout circuit also becomes the Reverse Lockout Solenoid with the MT firmware:

Pin 16 remains reverse in both AT and MT PCM firmware:

The really nice thing about pin 16 looking like it is reverse in both the AT and MT codebase is that my existing MICU should interpret it as reverse without making any changes to the MICU. And now that I think about it, since the park lockout and the reverse lockout both perform basically the same type of function, I bet that I can just re-use the existing wiring for my park lockout for the MT reverse lockout.

The AT gear selector dial is mounted on the automatic transmission itself, and the clutch switch is inside the car. I'll definitely need to run a wire from the clutch switch to pin 37 on the PCM. It's really late and I'm probably missing something, but it's looking like that might be one of the few wires that I need to run.

What will happen to the dash when the automatic gear shifter assembly is gone? I don't know. I'll find out when I get there.

I know that's just one example you cited, but it's a valid one. I'm going to be tackling these one at a time while I wait for a deal to arrive on a transmission.

The ECU does nothing but the engine, the MICU handles the inside. If the 9th gen is like my 8th the MICU and ECU don’t need to match, you can use a sedan MICU along with a Coupe ECU and have zero issues.

You know what man, the more I look at these alldata schematics and pinouts, the more I think this 9th gen behaves like you think it does. It looks like a bunch of the circuits that do similar functions AT to MT are lined up on the same pins. I'm going to start off by trying to run my J35Y1 on the J35Y2 codebase, but I think worst case if that doesn't work then I might just need to swap the engine too.

 

[Inspire02]

14v6 already mentioned the V6 MT coupe used a different engine which didn't have VCM.

If you want to go from AT to MT on the 9th gen cars with a V6 the best option is to sell the car and buy the MT car. If you can find a way to do it with your current car, without breaking the bank, :0 It will be well referenced as there are lots of folks who wanted a V6 Sedan with MT.

 

[RickBlaine]

OK, let's stop being negative here (me included!). We made our point- but we are no longer adding to the thread.

I am learning quite a bit thus far- the OP has thought of things I never even knew, and he writes VERY well.

I noticed that the 99% of swap threads that ended or disappeared in failure were almost always written by semi-illiterates who never think of step #2.

The OP here is thinking of the challenges and approaching them with confidence. I like this. Let's see where it goes (me included) and offer expertise where we can. He is going to attempt this with or without us....

 

[x2aws]

OK, let's stop being negative here (me included!). We made our point- but we are no longer adding to the thread.

I am learning quite a bit thus far- the OP has thought of things I never even knew, and he writes VERY well.

I noticed that the 99% of swap threads that ended or disappeared in failure were almost always written by semi-illiterates who never think of step #2.

The OP here is thinking of the challenges and approaching them with confidence. I like this. Let's see where it goes (me included) and offer expertise where we can. He is going to attempt this with or without us....

Rick, thanks for stepping up here. When i first started getting into modding cars there wasnt a ton of parts out there. Pretty much everything i did was taken from a different style of vehicle and modded to fit. That to me was modding a car. Didnt matter if you spent $4,000 to gain 15HP, it was the fact you did it. You took something that wasnt supposed to be there and you made it work. Half the fun was working on the car, it was like a painting that was never finished.

Seems nowadays if you cant buy it and only take 3 hours to put it on “its not worth it”, “you should just sell your car and buy something else”, “it cant be done”. To me its worth how ever much youre willing to spend. Who am i to tell someone what to do with their time and money. If we keep going down this path in this forum and shooting everyone down that has an idea this forum will soon turn into nothing more than people who just buy something, slap it on, and actually think they accomplished the world. The real innovators will either go somewhere else or just do what they do and not share.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[x2aws]

So my original plan was going to be to try keeping the AT PCM firmware intact and running a manual transmission on the automatic PCM codebase. I figured I could jury rig the AT PCM with a series of tricks to fool the PCM into believing the automatic transmission was still there and shifting away. Things like running the PWM signals of the shift solenoids through low pass filters and converting them to constant DC voltage, hooking them to the gates of MOSFETs and using the FETs as line pressure switches, etc. I never fully fleshed that idea out, and looks like I can stop even thinking about that now. I got an alldata account and found a list of every single check engine code the car can generate, and no matter how well I can emulate a transmission through whatever circuit I design, it will trigger 'DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck OFF'. Basically, the AT PCM will look at input shaft speed and compare it to engine RPM, and if they don't match, it freaks out. The manual transmission doesn't have an input shaft speed sensor anyway, but the plan was going to be to emulate it based on known gear ratios. But no matter what I do, I can't spoof engine RPM because the PCM actually needs that to run the engine. So that's the end of the line for my 'lets just run the MT on the AT PCM firmware' idea.

Now time to study Plan B: Swap to a manual transmission and use Ktuner to flash the manual transmission codebase to my PCM. Yes, this poses new challenges, but unlike the 'emulate the automatic transmission and fool the PCM into thinking it's still there' idea, I haven't run into a dead end on this one yet.

For those that aren't aware - I didn't know this until I started really getting into this project - Automatic transmission V6 accords 2013-2017 use a motor called J35Y1. This is used in both sedan and coupe AT cars. V6 MT cars got a different 3.5L V6 named the J35Y2. I had always assumed all 9th gen V6 accords shared the same engine, but nope, the engines are different. So by virtue of all V6MT cars having the J35Y2, flashing the MT codebase to my PCM means flashing the J35Y2 codebase.

Main challenges of running my J35Y1 with the J35Y2 PCM firmware:

- J35Y2 has different compression ratio and cams than my J35Y1, god only knows what kind of problems I'm gonna run into running the J35Y2 firmware on my J35Y1. Worst case, I'll have to buy a J35Y2 used off wherever.
- The J35Y1 in my sedan has active front and rear engine mounts. They're fluid filled, and operated by the J35Y1 PCM firmware. The J35Y2 firmware won't be aware of the active mounts, and they'll probably default to being floppy and flaccid. Solutions include either swapping to J35Y2 mounts or just manually controlling them by running whatever the 'on' voltage is to spin the valves shut.
- And probably some more than I'm not thinking about yet



There's no shop here. It's just you, me, the garage in my house, google, and an alldata subscription. I'm not even going to pretend that I know what I'm doing. I'm just making this up as I go. But I have already learned a lot in about a week as I sit around waiting for a transmission to turn up. And actually it feels like a solid plan and understanding is starting to form as I've spent time on this.



No, I don't think so. I will get a Ktuner when the transmission arrives and I will be flashing the manual PCM codebase to it. The AT PCM uses an active low signal at PCM connector A pin 37 to assert the park gear selection. The MT PCM codebase uses this same pin 37 for the clutch pedal switch. I am still studying the wiring harness schematics, but as far as I can tell so far my AT Sedan dashboard wiring harness and MICU won't have a connector or circuit for the clutch pedal. Since the MT PCM codebase is going to require the clutch to be pressed for the car to start, the solution for that is going to be to connect the clutch pedal switch to pin 37 on PCM connector A.

Interesting thing is that the Park lockout circuit also becomes the Reverse Lockout Solenoid with the MT firmware:

Pin 16 remains reverse in both AT and MT PCM firmware:

The really nice thing about pin 16 looking like it is reverse in both the AT and MT codebase is that my existing MICU should interpret it as reverse without making any changes to the MICU. And now that I think about it, since the park lockout and the reverse lockout both perform basically the same type of function, I bet that I can just re-use the existing wiring for my park lockout for the MT reverse lockout.

The AT gear selector dial is mounted on the automatic transmission itself, and the clutch switch is inside the car. I'll definitely need to run a wire from the clutch switch to pin 37 on the PCM. It's really late and I'm probably missing something, but it's looking like that might be one of the few wires that I need to run.

What will happen to the dash when the automatic gear shifter assembly is gone? I don't know. I'll find out when I get there.

I know that's just one example you cited, but it's a valid one. I'm going to be tackling these one at a time while I wait for a deal to arrive on a transmission.



You know what man, the more I look at these alldata schematics and pinouts, the more I think this 9th gen behaves like you think it does. It looks like a bunch of the circuits that do similar functions AT to MT are lined up on the same pins. I'm going to start off by trying to run my J35Y1 on the J35Y2 codebase, but I think worst case if that doesn't work then I might just need to swap the engine too.

First why mess with the ECM? Just buy a new one from a manual. Looking at eBay they are around $150ish. Not worth the hassle of possibly bricking your original. Second if the new earth dreams are anything like the 8th gen then there are only a few parts on the engine that are different from the manual to the auto. If I were you I’d swap them out first.

Like I said earlier, if you can buy it, do it. No need to start cutting things up and beating your head against the wall. If you were putting in a V8 from a different manufacturer into an accord, then by all means, if you were putting in an Acura engine from a 2018 into a 1994 civic, then by all means.... but based off of what you want to do Honda has already done it, except on a different frame.

That’s my advice.

 

[philip1000rr]

Thanks guys. Like I said before, I'm doing this for fun. I don't care if anybody else is impressed by it, I'm not doing the swap to show off to anybody. If I was into showing off then I wouldn't have bought an accord. I like this car and I'm not interested in buying some other car just for the manual transmission. I want this car to have it. I mean if Honda made a V6MT sedan then I'd just buy that, but they didn't... so here we go.

First why mess with the ECM? Just buy a new one from a manual. Looking at eBay they are around $150ish. Not worth the hassle of possibly bricking your original.

That's a pretty good point. I'll do that, I'm gonna find a J35Y2 PCM instead of reflashing my J35Y1 and possibly bricking it.

This raises a new question though.. what exactly stores the key data? Is this data stored in the PCM? If I replace (or even reflash) the PCM, does it forget my keyfob? Would I need to reprogram or retrain it to recognize my keys?

Second if the new earth dreams are anything like the 8th gen then there are only a few parts on the engine that are different from the manual to the auto. If I were you I’d swap them out first.

Like I said earlier, if you can buy it, do it. No need to start cutting things up and beating your head against the wall. If you were putting in a V8 from a different manufacturer into an accord, then by all means, if you were putting in an Acura engine from a 2018 into a 1994 civic, then by all means.... but based off of what you want to do Honda has already done it, except on a different frame.

Don't get me started on a V8 swap in this thing :lmao:

The MT-V6 and AT-V6 engines have some expensive differences between them. A quick overview suggests major differences based on different head part numbers:

But I went a few steps further and looked into the heads themselves. The front heads are identical except for the camshaft. It's the rear head that has a lot of different parts in it. VCM lives in the rear cylinder head, this is why the rear head design is so different. To convert this transmission over to J35Y2 spec, I'd need a new rear head assembly, new pistons(at least they use the same crank), and a new front camshaft. The head is $1500 alone from Honda, and with this engine being as uncommon as it is I don't think I'd be able to find a used head for sale. Realistically if I end up needing the MT engine then I'm going to need to buy an entire used engine from a salvage yard. I am going to try making this work with my existing engine.

 

[philip1000rr]

Over the weekend I took another crack at mounting the clutch pedal

> lol why are you bothering with the clutch pedal before you even have a transmission

It's gotta get done eventually. I can do this while I'm studying wiring harnesses and looking for a deal on a transmission and/or new J35Y2 engine. And this is going to take an entire weekend to itself now that I have a better idea of how to mount this thing.

I was excited at first because I realized I could just pop a plastic panel out from under the steering wheel and get much better access under the dash.

Much better access under the dash

The factory sound insulation even has a cutout where the clutch pedal mounts. This was encouraging.

Problem that I can't show in a picture is the shape of the firewall. I do know that the manual transmission cars (both sedan and coupe, both I4 and V6) have a different firewall P/N than the automatic cars do. Here's what I am dealing with:

The clutch pedal itself has three mount points. Two at the master cylinder, and a third one at the top. There is no obvious mount point for it in my car. I also combed through the Honda microfiche and couldn't find any brackets or anything. As far as I can tell, the manual transmission firewall is just shaped differently and has a mount point for this thing. Realistically this isn't that big of a problem. I absolutely need all three mount points, so I can't just leave the upper floating. I can fabricate an upper mount no problem. The problem is going to revolve around getting access to the thing. It's way up at the top of the dash and my 6'3 275lb frame doesn't fit well under that damn dashboard even with the seat removed. I'm going to have to remove the entire dashboard so I can get to it from the top.

Another problem that popped up - I bought a steel braided clutch line and a clutch master cylinder.

I'm used to working on motorcycles. I didn't know that the master cylinders Honda uses don't have threads on them.

I looked it up, and apparently these things use thread adapters (honda P/N 46941-S5A-003) that look like this:

The original plan for the long weekend was going to be to drill holes in the firewall, install the clutch and master cylinder, and coil up the clutch line and tuck it out of the way for later. Well, I don't have the adapter so I couldn't attach the clutch line to the master cylinder. And I don't know how familiar you guys are with where the clutch master lives on these cars, but it's wedged behind the shock tower and blocked by the power brake booster. This means the total installation for the clutch pedal + master cylinder is going to involve:

- Remove the entire dashboard to get access to the upper firewall inside the car
- Remove brake booster and brake master cylinder
- Use a 1.25" step drill to drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder + some mount points
- Cut/weld/fabricate an upper mount for the clutch pedal

I wasn't about to go through all the work of mounting and installing the pedal and master cylinder if I couldn't put it in with the clutch line installed. So I put the seat back in the car and put it back together again for now. Oh well, again I got a better understanding of what I need for the next try. This thing goes in for good next time.

That dash is going to be a pain in the ass. Clutch pedal / master cylinder installation is going to take an entire weekend by itself.

I'm about to head out of country for work for a few weeks, so this is about all the work I'm going to get done on this project for now. I'm going to keep looking for a transmission over the next few days, but other than that I'll be picking this project back up again when I get back sometime in late June.

 

[RickBlaine]

Immobilizer

This raises a new question though.. what exactly stores the key data? Is this data stored in the PCM? If I replace (or even reflash) the PCM, does it forget my keyfob? Would I need to reprogram or retrain it to recognize my keys?

The ECU (PCM), each and every key FOB, and the immobilzer (next to your ignition switch) all have to be introduced to one another at the same time- and the introduction/meeting can only be performed by one with the correct software. In the USA, that is the Honda dealer. In Mexico, African countries, etc- there might be someone with this software.

So if you wanted to add one key or five keys, for example, the dealer must reflash it all- unless you use the same ECU, key FOBs, and immobilzer from the same previously working car.

You can call around, some Honda dealers will reflash existing key FOBs (buy 'em used on eBay) and reprogram them (not just the "programming" that means rolling your windows down) for a flat $150, some charge $300. But all three things (the ECU, key Fob(s), and immobilzer) must be present for dealer to do this.

EDIT: I am cracking up about the weight bench being re-purposed as a work bench....been there done that.

 

[200366HFP]

EDIT: I am cracking up about the weight bench being re-purposed as a work bench....been there done that.

I haven't used a weight bench, but I have a home made 'table' I use up against the side of the car when I need to lay on my back to get at something under the dash. I'll bet that weight bench works great for that though! Easier than contorting your body to get under the dash while hanging out of the door......

 

[x2aws]

Thanks guys. Like I said before, I'm doing this for fun. I don't care if anybody else is impressed by it, I'm not doing the swap to show off to anybody. If I was into showing off then I wouldn't have bought an accord. I like this car and I'm not interested in buying some other car just for the manual transmission. I want this car to have it. I mean if Honda made a V6MT sedan then I'd just buy that, but they didn't... so here we go.



That's a pretty good point. I'll do that, I'm gonna find a J35Y2 PCM instead of reflashing my J35Y1 and possibly bricking it.

This raises a new question though.. what exactly stores the key data? Is this data stored in the PCM? If I replace (or even reflash) the PCM, does it forget my keyfob? Would I need to reprogram or retrain it to recognize my keys?



Don't get me started on a V8 swap in this thing :lmao:

The MT-V6 and AT-V6 engines have some expensive differences between them. A quick overview suggests major differences based on different head part numbers:

But I went a few steps further and looked into the heads themselves. The front heads are identical except for the camshaft. It's the rear head that has a lot of different parts in it. VCM lives in the rear cylinder head, this is why the rear head design is so different. To convert this transmission over to J35Y2 spec, I'd need a new rear head assembly, new pistons(at least they use the same crank), and a new front camshaft. The head is $1500 alone from Honda, and with this engine being as uncommon as it is I don't think I'd be able to find a used head for sale. Realistically if I end up needing the MT engine then I'm going to need to buy an entire used engine from a salvage yard. I am going to try making this work with my existing engine.

The PCM, MICU, and immob all have to be linked. The steps needs are to register the PCM with the MICU, then you program the keys. Its a simple process and the programmer needed to do so should run you about $200 from Amazon. I purchased one for my vehicle and don't listen to the reviews on Amazon, because trust me, it does work.

 

[x2aws]

The ECU (PCM), each and every key FOB, and the immobilzer (next to your ignition switch) all have to be introduced to one another at the same time- and the introduction/meeting can only be performed by one with the correct software. In the USA, that is the Honda dealer. In Mexico, African countries, etc- there might be someone with this software.

So if you wanted to add one key or five keys, for example, the dealer must reflash it all- unless you use the same ECU, key FOBs, and immobilzer from the same previously working car.

You can call around, some Honda dealers will reflash existing key FOBs (buy 'em used on eBay) and reprogram them (not just the "programming" that means rolling your windows down) for a flat $150, some charge $300. But all three things (the ECU, key Fob(s), and immobilzer) must be present for dealer to do this.

EDIT: I am cracking up about the weight bench being re-purposed as a work bench....been there done that.

Rick, not true. I own this product "Launch New X431 Icarscan" and it works just fine for all the above. The need for a dealer for this job is not needed and to be honest, I don't think they would be able to do the job needed. For most of them if it isn't in a manual they can read, they don't know what to do.

 

[philip1000rr]

The ECU (PCM), each and every key FOB, and the immobilzer (next to your ignition switch) all have to be introduced to one another at the same time- and the introduction/meeting can only be performed by one with the correct software. In the USA, that is the Honda dealer. In Mexico, African countries, etc- there might be someone with this software.

So if you wanted to add one key or five keys, for example, the dealer must reflash it all- unless you use the same ECU, key FOBs, and immobilzer from the same previously working car.

You can call around, some Honda dealers will reflash existing key FOBs (buy 'em used on eBay) and reprogram them (not just the "programming" that means rolling your windows down) for a flat $150, some charge $300. But all three things (the ECU, key Fob(s), and immobilzer) must be present for dealer to do this.

Rick, not true. I own this product "Launch New X431 Icarscan" and it works just fine for all the above. The need for a dealer for this job is not needed and to be honest, I don't think they would be able to do the job needed. For most of them if it isn't in a manual they can read, they don't know what to do.

Thanks for the input, as long as they can all be programmed to play nice with each other afterwards then I'm not worried about doing a PCM swap. And thanks for the tool recommendation - I'd rather buy the tool so I have it and can re-use it as needed than just take it to the dealership. I'll give that X431 Icarscan tool a try when I get to that point.

EDIT: I am cracking up about the weight bench being re-purposed as a work bench....been there done that.

:lmao:

It's part convenient work bench, part not enough room in my garage. It's nice when I can re-purpose some of the clutter as additional workspace, lol.

 

[philip1000rr]

Small update - I found a J35Y2 engine complete with engine+transmission wiring harness, clutch, flywheel, PCM, and just 20,000 miles on it. I decided against trying to hack up my J35Y1 to make it run with its different compression ratio, cams, VTEC hydraulics, and probably timing with the J35Y2 PCM. Paid $1700 shipped. If I wasn't committed earlier, I am now.

Looking at buying a transmission + starter motor tomorrow. Once I buy the transmission the last remaining additional parts should be axles, engine mounts, transmission mounts, and a thousand small pieces that I won't know I'm missing until I try to install the engine and transmission and get stuck because of a missing screw or something. Can't wait.

I'm flying out of the country for a work trip this weekend and won't come back until mid June. It's going to be like christmas morning when I get back, I should be coming back to a whole pile full of parts.

 

[Dusty Bones]

So...How's the swap going? I really want to see you make it work!

 

[sandevino]

Same here... how's the swap going? If you're stuck on the clutch pedal mounting location I'll snap a pic of mine.

I was in the same boat 2 years ago and opted to trade my auto in for a manual as time was not something I had mass quantities of.

 

[Redglare]

Any updates on swap?

 

[ellswrth]

I just want to say thanks for letting the rest of us go on this journey with you vicariously

Much respect for your having decided "I'm going to figure all this out" and going through with it.