[Coachbwluther]

I drive a 2014 accord and I have been having multiple issues since the end of may 2022. I have had my wheelbearings changed , and two alternators, and one week after the newest one I got a check charge system message. I think the best way to describe exactly what has happened and been done is to put it in a timeline. I am the original owner

Car was in Mississippi from 2013 to 2017
East Tn /WV from 2017 till March 2022

appx 143,000 miles. battery from oct 2018

1. End of march I had all 4 tire changed
2. End of may Was driving on the interstate , and the ABS , Traction , power steering and tire pressure light came on. Turned off & let it sit for a minute , turned it on. no lights. went to autozone and had an ABS check, said no issues couldn't read the left rear wheel sensor. made a 7 hour trip
3. The Next week was driving and car did it again w/ the same lights. I had a "full system check" at autozone. said battery was good, alternator not working.
4. Went and had alternator and belt changed that day.
5. a month later in july I was returning from a long trip & the lights came on again, then they stopped after restarting. so i continued my drive to MS
6. beginning of sept I went down the road, left the car on came out about 2 minutes later and car was just on, but engine didn't start, and every warning light was on (not charge system) wouldn't turn over. Was slow starting the previous few times This day. got it jumped brought it to the mechanic. checked the battery (read good) , but alternator wasn't holding or producing the charge (under 14) . he disconnected it and reconnected it and the alternator read good.
7. finally about 2 saturdays ago, I went to the auto zone to have the alternator checked and it read bad again, so i got another one from adavanced auto . and also got both rear wheel bearings changed because they were bad
8. yesterday out of curiosity I went to autozone to have it read just to make sure and it read good, when i went to the gas station and restarted my car .. the battery light and check charge system light came on, both times restarting it, went to advanced and they said the alternator was bad. No check light on tho
9. after that luckily a family friend was a retired mechanic and alot of electrical experience, and a code reader on hand. we noticed the negative cable was loose and needed replacing, however when we took the negative off the post with the car on, the car died within about 10 seconds , same when we did the positive independent of each other.

After yesterday, it was suggested that It could be the older battery causing the alternator issues, in addition to the loose negative cable (had to put screw in it because of the slack) , or it could be the ignition switch. no definite answer, and unless it is happening it would be hard for an eletrical diagnostics to detect the problem if it isn't happening now.

I am going to get new battery, and terminal (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHSBC107?impressionRank=1 )

from message boards and asking another mechanic, I have seen the FCW warning thing mention (i dont think my has this) , the Battery sensor causing the issues or simply hondas are difficult with aftermarket alternators.

do you guys have any suggestions?

 

[Blackheart]

Point 1, not related any electrical issues. I don't see how the battery could be "good" but, the alternator not charging in point number 2....if the alternator wasn't working the battery would not charge and would die.
Point 3 could be a bad ground or bad alternator. You changed the alternator.
Point 5, 6, could be a bad ground.
Point 7, new alternator...could have been the first one was OK and the bad ground is showing up again. Wheel bearings are not part of the problem...UNLESS you are having static electricity buildup from wheel bearings and these aren't adequately grounded to dissipate the static electricity efficiently, which leads back to a potential bad ground.
8: potential bad ground again.
9: there is a nut that can loosen which attaches the negative cable to the negative terminal clamp. If this was loose enough the ground was insufficient from time-to-time, it would explain much of what you reported. (Mine just did a couple of your items above and that's all it was...loose nut from the negative cable to the negative terminal.) Maybe it's now fixed, or, if your mechanic buddy sees something else wrong with the grounding strap, maybe that's it.
I know the alternator is a bit of a different beast, but, I'm not an electrical expert...that negative terminal battery sensor should have been replaced under recall. Did you have that done already?
Sure hope it's as simple as a bad ground and that you have either found it, or find it. I hate electrical glitches.

 

[Coachbwluther]

Tomorrow the Battery sensory head will be in, I will get that and what ever else I need to fix that part. I also will get a new battery. I also just for the hell of it got it tested again today at advanced . and as soon as he did the asked me to start the engine , the check charging system light came on with the battery for like 10 seconds. and disappeared. I forgot to put in the last point, it read fine at the end of last night , and then i had to make a 2.5 hour drive home with one stop and no issues. I typed in my vin, it there were no recalls for it , on the honda site or kelly blue book.

 

[Coachbwluther]

Updated - I had the battery changed this morning , and also the sensor.
the old battery was starting to swell (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd?q=super+start+battery+extreme+24rext&pos=5 )

With both batteries. The voltage was in the 12's , until I put the lights on and it rose to the 14s.
the old w/ old sensor
The new w/ new sensor

OLD BATTERY: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd?q=super+start+battery+extreme+24rext&pos=5

NEW BATTERY: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ery-51r-dlg-group-size-51r-500-cca/330111_0_0

 

[Rygrego]

Updated - I had the battery changed this morning , and also the sensor.
the old battery was starting to swell (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd?q=super+start+battery+extreme+24rext&pos=5 )

With both batteries. The voltage was in the 12's , until I put the lights on and it rose to the 14s.
the old w/ old sensor
The new w/ new sensor

OLD BATTERY: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd?q=super+start+battery+extreme+24rext&pos=5

NEW BATTERY: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ery-51r-dlg-group-size-51r-500-cca/330111_0_0

This is the proper operation for the alternator. The ECM controls its charging rate all depending on load. Nothing to worry about.

 

[Coachbwluther]

ok great, what would have triggered the check charging system light?

 

[sequoiasoon]

Many people have ground issues. Read my post HERE at DA and read that thread. You can do all you want to the alternators etc but if that one ground bolt at fender has bad connections you will have issues at some point IMO. My '19 Pilot the negative terminal is a PITA to get to. I went OVERBOARD in that but it gets used for compressor and other stuff.

I have THIS USB Charger in the cars to monitor the voltage. Watching it drop and stay at 12.6V drives my old school self crazy but that is how Honda designed it. Yours might have been a dying battery, that sensor or a poor ground to start but maybe not the alternator. Many places don't know the odd Honda charging scenario. The battery sensor was replaced on my '19 Pilot after getting weird messages.

My daughter killed her battery (lights on for days) in her CRV. She jumped it and I told her turn headlights on when she drives everywhere for now until I can give a good charge when she gets home from school. Her friends said to turn everything off so it would charge. She showed them on the USB charger and said "I'll listen to my dad, thanks". She has had no problem even with short trips since.

 

[sequoiasoon]

Updated - I had the battery changed this morning , and also the sensor.
the old battery was starting to swell (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd?q=super+start+battery+extreme+24rext&pos=5 )

With both batteries. The voltage was in the 12's , until I put the lights on and it rose to the 14s.
the old w/ old sensor
The new w/ new sensor

OLD BATTERY: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd?q=super+start+battery+extreme+24rext&pos=5

NEW BATTERY: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ery-51r-dlg-group-size-51r-500-cca/330111_0_0

Many on here UPGRADE to the 24F battery. It has more power. The V6 uses that. There are threads on getting different battery box etc for the 24F upgrade, you went backwards. When mine dies someday the 24F upgrade is what I will be doing. The 51R is the correct battery for the 4cyl but less reserve capacity, less hutzpah, not what you want if you think you have issues.

 

[shintony]

Do you still have your original alternator? The alternator is likely to be good from the beginning as this car won’t charge the battery when the battery is full AND electrical load is low. This may be interpreted as a bad alternator.
If the alternator is truly bad, the computer will likely register a code of no charging, like your other alternators.
The first problem is usually bad wheel speed sensor, and will also cause TPMS (ABS based) to stop working.
Also this car can be driven without a battery. My friend’s battery read 0V, open circuit and can still drive around with a jump start. Try reinstall your original alternator if it’s in good working order.

 

[Coachbwluther]

Unfortunately, I didn’t know all this stuff , but my old long is long gone when I gave it back for the core charge

 

[Junglejimrr]

I drive a 2014 accord and I have been having multiple issues since the end of may 2022. I have had my wheelbearings changed , and two alternators, and one week after the newest one I got a check charge system message. I think the best way to describe exactly what has happened and been done is to put it in a timeline. I am the original owner

Car was in Mississippi from 2013 to 2017
East Tn /WV from 2017 till March 2022

appx 143,000 miles. battery from oct 2018

1. End of march I had all 4 tire changed
2. End of may Was driving on the interstate , and the ABS , Traction , power steering and tire pressure light came on. Turned off & let it sit for a minute , turned it on. no lights. went to autozone and had an ABS check, said no issues couldn't read the left rear wheel sensor. made a 7 hour trip
3. The Next week was driving and car did it again w/ the same lights. I had a "full system check" at autozone. said battery was good, alternator not working.
4. Went and had alternator and belt changed that day.
5. a month later in july I was returning from a long trip & the lights came on again, then they stopped after restarting. so i continued my drive to MS
6. beginning of sept I went down the road, left the car on came out about 2 minutes later and car was just on, but engine didn't start, and every warning light was on (not charge system) wouldn't turn over. Was slow starting the previous few times This day. got it jumped brought it to the mechanic. checked the battery (read good) , but alternator wasn't holding or producing the charge (under 14) . he disconnected it and reconnected it and the alternator read good.
7. finally about 2 saturdays ago, I went to the auto zone to have the alternator checked and it read bad again, so i got another one from adavanced auto . and also got both rear wheel bearings changed because they were bad
8. yesterday out of curiosity I went to autozone to have it read just to make sure and it read good, when i went to the gas station and restarted my car .. the battery light and check charge system light came on, both times restarting it, went to advanced and they said the alternator was bad. No check light on tho
9. after that luckily a family friend was a retired mechanic and alot of electrical experience, and a code reader on hand. we noticed the negative cable was loose and needed replacing, however when we took the negative off the post with the car on, the car died within about 10 seconds , same when we did the positive independent of each other.

After yesterday, it was suggested that It could be the older battery causing the alternator issues, in addition to the loose negative cable (had to put screw in it because of the slack) , or it could be the ignition switch. no definite answer, and unless it is happening it would be hard for an eletrical diagnostics to detect the problem if it isn't happening now.

I am going to get new battery, and terminal (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHSBC107?impressionRank=1 )

from message boards and asking another mechanic, I have seen the FCW warning thing mention (i dont think my has this) , the Battery sensor causing the issues or simply hondas are difficult with aftermarket alternators.

do you guys have any suggestions?

Oh Honda's do have a dual charging system sudu actress and the right alternator would make a difference unfortunately you'd want to go with the honda replaced OM1 because they are different in fact they are much different and your car We'll temporarily cut power to charging the battery under certain circumstances which would be running the AC or is she like that or your car doesn't charge your battery all the time and could lead the problems if you have a short you may have a short or crossed wire or something is grounding out or you have a bad sensor or eld take I look at this PDF where kind of explains the charging system and different scenarios that it may or may not charge you might want to take a look at that and also you would want to have an OM Honda alternator and also check that the alternator isn't covered in oil or grease because of the V Tech engines do spill and spue oil on those which make them not work properly so I would check those things and get back to us

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[Coachbwluther]

It would let me look at at pdf. After a few weeks of No issues, And a 11 hour road trip on Saturday. (Had lights on the whole time) I went out for an errand today and I got the check charge system error again , after a ppt hole. I was able to make it home and park. I let it sit for a few minutes, and then turned it on and after about 2 minutes, the check charge system came on with the battery light but as soon and I turned the light on it went away. about an hour later I turned it on with the lights on and the message didn’t come on after about letting it run for 5 minutes. iwas Able to get an appointment at Honda Friday and I’m hoping I can get home Saturday with no issues