2014 Honda accord sport
Oh Honda's do have a dual charging system sudu actress and the right alternator would make a difference unfortunately you'd want to go with the honda replaced OM1 because they are different in fact they are much different and your car We'll temporarily cut power to charging the battery under certain circumstances which would be running the AC or is she like that or your car doesn't charge your battery all the time and could lead the problems if you have a short you may have a short or crossed wire or something is grounding out or you have a bad sensor or eld take I look at this PDF where kind of explains the charging system and different scenarios that it may or may not charge you might want to take a look at that and also you would want to have an OM Honda alternator and also check that the alternator isn't covered in oil or grease because of the V Tech engines do spill and spue oil on those which make them not work properly so I would check those things and get back to usI drive a 2014 accord and I have been having multiple issues since the end of may 2022. I have had my wheelbearings changed , and two alternators, and one week after the newest one I got a check charge system message. I think the best way to describe exactly what has happened and been done is to put it in a timeline. I am the original owner
Car was in Mississippi from 2013 to 2017
East Tn /WV from 2017 till March 2022
appx 143,000 miles. battery from oct 2018
After yesterday, it was suggested that It could be the older battery causing the alternator issues, in addition to the loose negative cable (had to put screw in it because of the slack) , or it could be the ignition switch. no definite answer, and unless it is happening it would be hard for an eletrical diagnostics to detect the problem if it isn't happening now.
- End of march I had all 4 tire changed
- End of may Was driving on the interstate , and the ABS , Traction , power steering and tire pressure light came on. Turned off & let it sit for a minute , turned it on. no lights. went to autozone and had an ABS check, said no issues couldn't read the left rear wheel sensor. made a 7 hour trip
- The Next week was driving and car did it again w/ the same lights. I had a "full system check" at autozone. said battery was good, alternator not working.
- Went and had alternator and belt changed that day.
- a month later in july I was returning from a long trip & the lights came on again, then they stopped after restarting. so i continued my drive to MS
- beginning of sept I went down the road, left the car on came out about 2 minutes later and car was just on, but engine didn't start, and every warning light was on (not charge system) wouldn't turn over. Was slow starting the previous few times This day. got it jumped brought it to the mechanic. checked the battery (read good) , but alternator wasn't holding or producing the charge (under 14) . he disconnected it and reconnected it and the alternator read good.
- finally about 2 saturdays ago, I went to the auto zone to have the alternator checked and it read bad again, so i got another one from adavanced auto . and also got both rear wheel bearings changed because they were bad
- yesterday out of curiosity I went to autozone to have it read just to make sure and it read good, when i went to the gas station and restarted my car .. the battery light and check charge system light came on, both times restarting it, went to advanced and they said the alternator was bad. No check light on tho
- after that luckily a family friend was a retired mechanic and alot of electrical experience, and a code reader on hand. we noticed the negative cable was loose and needed replacing, however when we took the negative off the post with the car on, the car died within about 10 seconds , same when we did the positive independent of each other.
I am going to get new battery, and terminal (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHSBC107?impressionRank=1 )
from message boards and asking another mechanic, I have seen the FCW warning thing mention (i dont think my has this) , the Battery sensor causing the issues or simply hondas are difficult with aftermarket alternators.
do you guys have any suggestions?