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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the latest install to come out my garage, my 2014 Honda Accord Hybrid EX-L. I wanted a simple install with a single sub in the spare tire well and the equipment rack under the rear deck. I know the rear deck install has been done in the past but with the car being a Hybrid I’m already short on trunk space. My plan is to use as little space as necessary while keeping the OEM look, including the OEM trunk tray. Here is a list of the equipment I used:

Line drivers: Arc ALD
Processor: Arc PS8
Amplifier: Phoenix Gold Ti21600.5
Tweeters: Hertz ML280
Mids: Hertz ML1600
Sub: Image Dynamics IDQ12v3 D4
Power Distribution: Phoenix Gold Zero Point distribution block and Tantrum DD5
Install accessories: Phoenix Gold Zero Point RCA’s, Stinger Expert series power wire and Stinger speaker wire, Raamat BXTII and Ensolite.

I did some testing found that the OEM touchscreen head unit puts out 3.0V of clean signal at full volume (when pulled before the OEM amp). I started with a set of Arc ALD’s, one for the front channels and one for the subs. I didn’t use one for the rears since I don’t plan one having rear speakers, and the processor will take care of any adjustments I need to make between the mids and tweeters. I found the OEM amp in the Hybrid is in the driver’s side under dash area, above the dead pedal near the firewall. I started with some Belden cable to tie onto the OEM low level signal with Phoenix Gold Zero Point RCA tips. I made a simple bracket to bolt the two ALD’s to the OEM amp mount. I then routed the RCA’s across the firewall and down the passenger side of the car.








The doors were deadened with the raamat and sealed up with aluminum flashing. I mounted the aluminum panels with some 8-32 rivnuts so that they can removed in the future, if necessary. I put down a layer of ensolite over the entire door. I made the midbass ring to space out the mid by ¾” and mounted the ring to the door with more 8-32 rivnuts. The door panel also received some deadener. I ran the speaker wires into the door through the OEM harness. The tweeter was snapped into the OEM mount with the included hardware. I’ll probably modify the OEM mount in the future to look a little better in the future. The speaker wires were run down each side of the car and up to the rear deck area where the amp will be mounted.














The deck was deadened on both sides and a layer of ensolite was laid down on the top after all the drivers were removed. The amp rack started with a simple piece of ½” MDF trimmed to fit and drilled to mount to the rear deck with some ¼-20 rivnuts. I made the amp rack so that there is a relief in the middle that matches up with the OEM sub grill. I mounted the equipment with hurricane nuts and button head 8-32 allen head screws to keep things from working loose over time. The rack has the Phoenix Gold DD5, the Arc PS8, the Phoenix Gold Ti21600.5 and the Zero Point distribution block. The distribution block has a port for a ZRDT3 that I mounted in the glove box. I mounted the remote gain knob in the lower punch out panel to the right side of the steering wheel.










I started the speaker box by first applying a layer of rammat in the floor pan in preparation for the fiberglass bottom of the box. I trimmed the four sides of the box to roughly match the floor. I laid down a layer of woven mat first, followed up by many layers of chop mat and one layer of rammat. I eventually built it up to approximately ½” and secured the box to the floor with a ¼-20 bolt and rivnut. I made the top of the box with a removable top baffle so that I can replace the sub with another that is a different size in the future if necessary. The sub is mounted with the same hurricane nuts and countersunk 8-32 screws as the equipment rack. The sub baffle is a piece of ¾” MDF covered in Formica. I then began on the long process of making the trim panels. I started making as large as a piece as possible that would fit in the opening that matched the outer curves while trimming out the baffle. I made the top panel with a removable grill so that items can still be placed in the trunk without fear of damaging the woofer. The amp rack, trim panels and sub grill were all covered with the same carpet that is similar to the OEM color. The OEM trunk tray fits over the trim panel and keeps everything looking factory.

























Thanks for looking and feel free to ask any questions!
 

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Black 2015 EX-L V6 Sedan
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Wow that install looks awesome. I love that the sub is hidden. Very good install. Excellent write up.

Thanks for sharing.
 

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196 Posts
I approve. :D

How do those 1600's sound in the doors?

Trying to find a set...
 

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:notworthy

Wow. Very nice job. Makes my install look like child's play.
 

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Very clean install man. How are you liking that PS8? I have a couple of SE amps sitting in my closet from my last car that is waiting for my lazy butt to install it into my Accord. :p I just need a good processor. I'm torn between the PS8 and the Helix DSP.
 

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Thanks guys! The 1600's sound pretty awesome, especially since they are still breaking in. The install was the easy part, now the hard part, tuning.
Thats my favorite part!

2 more questions.

What do you think of the stock tweeter locations?

What carpeting did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lazy, the PS8 is awesome. I'm used to an H701 in my old Accord so there is still a bit of a learning curve, and the user manual expects you to understand certain things that aren't obvious. Fred at Arc has been more than helpful with my questions, even emailing me back a few hours later when I emailed him at 8 pm! So far I don't regret my choice, and I looked at the 6 to 8, the Bit1 and the Bit Ten. I didn't do any research on the Helix piece but guys on DIYMA seem to like it. I haven't really tried to tune yet since I'm still working on the gain stucture but I've got a faint hiss that I'm trying to get rid of. My last car was dead silent but with this one being a Hybrid I may not have a choice but to have some noise. At any speed above sitting still it disappears so I may be a little too OCD!

@ndy, the stock spots aren't bad. My old Accord has Dyn MD100's in the pillars and a set of MD140's on the dash so I'm used to a stage height that is higher than most. The ML280's literally dropped in so in the short term I can't complain. I may have to add the ML70's in the future and put both in the pillars.

As for the carpet, it was some stuff that my buddy gets at his shop. I'll see if he knows what it is. At one point he said something about some stuff that Stinger (AAMP) sells but I'm not sure if that's what I got. Its an unbacked trunk liner that matched surprising well.
 

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Great install.

What's the advantage of using aluminum flashing if one uses a whole sheet of mass loaded vinyl? Does deadened aluminum flashing suffice in therms of noise reduction and better sound response out of a speaker? The reason why I am curious is because I am trying to find the most lightweight combination of insulation that get's the job done well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
MLV probably works about the same, especially considering with how much I deadened the aluminum, depending on the weight of both. The only thing that might be an advantage of the aluminum is the cutting of the panels. I have no experience trying to cut the MLV but the aluminum cuts easily with a pair of tin snips, and it's more readily available.
 

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I posted on DIYMA a while back about possibly doing tweeterless in a 2013 Accord Sport (got a 2014 instead), so am definitely interested in pics when you eventually get around to glassing in some mids.

Also, wheel well sub question. I did one last year for a friend and lucked out all my measurements were close enough for the false floor opening to line up.

How did you go about yours? Is there a more technical way to achieve that so its exact everytime?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've heard a car with a tweeter less setup and it lacked a little sparkle. It wasn't horrible and I would expect to learn to like it over time, but his L3's were in pods on the dash so staging was very high, as expected.

As for the well, I've used a 4' level to gauge it in the past but usually set them up to be just above so that I can make a big trim panel in case the carpet doesn't match very well. This time it could've gone either way.
 

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how do you like the raamat and ensolite combo? i used them in my truck but never had a system installed in it before i died on me. i'm debating on going with raamat and ensolite or second skin and ensolite? the system i'm planning to put in is comparable but will be running an idmas or xcon for sub duties
 

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Great install.

What's the advantage of using aluminum flashing if one uses a whole sheet of mass loaded vinyl? Does deadened aluminum flashing suffice in therms of noise reduction and better sound response out of a speaker? The reason why I am curious is because I am trying to find the most lightweight combination of insulation that get's the job done well.
Makes it more of an enclosure for the driver. Less of a leaky sealed enclosure
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
how do you like the raamat and ensolite combo? i used them in my truck but never had a system installed in it before i died on me. i'm debating on going with raamat and ensolite or second skin and ensolite? the system i'm planning to put in is comparable but will be running an idmas or xcon for sub duties
I've had excellent results with Raamat and ensolite, using it in my last three installs. I've yet to have any pieces delaminate or come off, even after 6 years of service in my 98 Accord. I looked at SS but couldn't justify the extra expense. Another area of consideration for me was that my car is a hybrid and I didn't want to add too much weight or thickness. I don't think you can go wrong with either product.
 

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2014 Honda Accord Sport
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Very nice SQ install lashlee.. I wanted to have my accord set up too. May be you can help me with some tips and suggestion. Thanks..
 
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