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2015 Accord EX sedan 6MT Alabaster Silver
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to replace my 2015 EX 6MT transmission fluid. It's at 166000 miles. I bought it with 145000 on it. The manual gear fluid was changed at about 130000. The filler plug is pretty rusted. Breaker bar doesn't budge. Impact wrench (battery operated) didn't budge. Plug starting to strip. I don't want to completely strip the plug. I've soaked it with PB blaster over weeks.

Any ideas on how to remove the plug without doing more damage?

Alternately, my previous manual transmission vehicles, I filled it using what is now the check plug. Anyone successfully replace MT fluid using the check plug instead of the filler plug on top? Any tips?
 

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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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You could try some others like Kroil. Make sure the well (socket) is totally cleaned out so extension or whatever sits fully in there. I had a lot of dirt/sand stuck but it looked pretty clean. I used a small flat tip and scrapped numerous times and sprayed some cleaner before it all came out. Mine only had 50k on it and it was a PITA to get loose. I went out and bought a new 1/2" impact extension and 1/2">3/8" impact adaptor to use with a 1/2" breaker bar. The 3/8 extension and breaker I had were actually twisting and getting ready to snap.

What is the battery operated impact wrench you have? What are the torque specs?

Other options that might help. Warm up the plug with a heat gun and cool with an ice cube to "crack" the rust and let penetrant get in there. Not on that but I have used propane torch and ice or other. You could try taking a can of keyboard duster, turn upside down and spray the plug and around it then try.

I had to do that when I broke a tap in a hole. Internet search on how to remove hardened steel tap showed that but I had to make it very brittle and break with a punch.
 

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I'm trying to replace my 2015 EX 6MT transmission fluid. It's at 166000 miles. I bought it with 145000 on it. The manual gear fluid was changed at about 130000. The filler plug is pretty rusted. Breaker bar doesn't budge. Impact wrench (battery operated) didn't budge. Plug starting to strip. I don't want to completely strip the plug. I've soaked it with PB blaster over weeks.

Any ideas on how to remove the plug without doing more damage?

Alternately, my previous manual transmission vehicles, I filled it using what is now the check plug. Anyone successfully replace MT fluid using the check plug instead of the filler plug on top? Any tips?
On my last 7th gen, the shop used check plug and fille it with a pump and flexible hose. Much easier. I asked why he is not doing the proper way, he said they always did this way and save time.
 

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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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On my last 7th gen, the shop used check plug and fille it with a pump and flexible hose. Much easier. I asked why he is not doing the proper way, he said they always did this way and save time.
What shop? Honda or independent? Did they siphon it from there also or use actual drain plug? So saving time for them but not following what manufacturer calls for and possibly charging you the full time any way on book rate.

That might be the former shop I used. Good performance and quality is not always cheap, Cheap performance and quality is not always good.
 

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What shop? Honda or independent? Did they siphon it from there also or use actual drain plug? So saving time for them but not following what manufacturer calls for and possibly charging you the full time any way on book rate.

That might be the former shop I used. Good performance and quality is not always cheap, Cheap performance and quality is not always good.
Thanks for your worries. Manufacturer does not give a rats ass as long as proper amount of fluid is in there. I already violate them by using GM Syncromesh instead of OEM MTF.

It was an Indy shop and I was under the car with the guy. He removed the check plug first, then drained the fluid from drain plug. Added with pump and flex hose using my provided GM Syncromesh. It was done in 20 mins. Charged 25 or 30 bucks.

What quality and performance are you talking about in all of this? I take my cars to indies and watch them closely.
 

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He removed the check plug first, then drained the fluid from drain plug. Added with pump and flex hose using my provided GM Syncromesh. It was done in 20 mins. Charged 25 or 30 bucks.
This was historically the procedure. I see no reason why it can’t still be done in that way.

$30 labor is reasonable for this job, so however a shop can get it done.
 

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2013 Touring 6 spd MT
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I also used a 1/2" impact extension to prevent twisting. In addition, I cleaned out the bolt area and applied some valve grinding paste to the socket to prevent slippage/stripping.
 

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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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Thanks for your worries. Manufacturer does not give a rats ass as long as proper amount of fluid is in there. I already violate them by using GM Syncromesh instead of OEM MTF.

It was an Indy shop and I was under the car with the guy. He removed the check plug first, then drained the fluid from drain plug. Added with pump and flex hose using my provided GM Syncromesh. It was done in 20 mins. Charged 25 or 30 bucks.

What quality and performance are you talking about in all of this? I take my cars to indies and watch them closely.
As long as you are happy with the job and confident it was done correct and in the shop then all is well. When I do use a shop it is normally an independent one that I have used for many years. Dealer gets used for recalls and other warranty coverage work.

The quality and performance is common type saying for many things. Many also use the bitter taste of poor quality lasts much longer the sweetness of a cheap price. I myself have found those true many times when I had to pay a second time for a higher price to fix a problem correctly from a more knowledgeable or talented person, totally wasting the initial $$.

My 6MT also has the GM Synchromesh in it currently (y).
 

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2015 Accord EX sedan 6MT Alabaster Silver
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, I started to strip the filler plug already. Horrible design. What's wrong w/ the traditional hex bolt? My battery operated impact wrench I don't know the specs. It's a Ryobi 18V.

MT Transmission Case - 2015 Honda Accord 4 Door EX KA 6MT (hondapartsnow.com) Does anyone know if I can back out #13, the back-up light sensor, and fill from there?
The check plug looks to be #22, but it's a tiny hole, not sure if I can effectively get adequate fluid in that way.

I haven't tried the heat, yet. I have a blow torch, but I'm not comfortable with all the other components in the area. I might try a chisel and wedge it into the hole diagonally. Anyone think that would work? At some point, I'd like to at least chisel it out and put a new plug in there. However, if I can take out the back-up sensor and fill from there, that may have to do for now.
 

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V6 6MT CBP
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So, I started to strip the filler plug already. Horrible design. What's wrong w/ the traditional hex bolt? My battery operated impact wrench I don't know the specs. It's a Ryobi 18V.

MT Transmission Case - 2015 Honda Accord 4 Door EX KA 6MT (hondapartsnow.com) Does anyone know if I can back out #13, the back-up light sensor, and fill from there?
The check plug looks to be #22, but it's a tiny hole, not sure if I can effectively get adequate fluid in that way.

I haven't tried the heat, yet. I have a blow torch, but I'm not comfortable with all the other components in the area. I might try a chisel and wedge it into the hole diagonally. Anyone think that would work? At some point, I'd like to at least chisel it out and put a new plug in there. However, if I can take out the back-up sensor and fill from there, that may have to do for now.
I've done the chisel method on other stripped oil plug bolt applications but not on my Honda - if you can get to it without removing too much, that could be a good start. I would hit it with some type of penetrating oil as well and let it soak for a bit before hammering away on it.
 

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2015 Accord EX sedan 6MT Alabaster Silver
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've done the chisel method on other stripped oil plug bolt applications but not on my Honda - if you can get to it without removing too much, that could be a good start. I would hit it with some type of penetrating oil as well and let it soak for a bit before hammering away on it.
The chisel method I'm thinking about here is not just chiseling away from the outer edge. This filler bolt is a recessed 3/8" square hole, meant for the 3/8" socket extension. I'm wondering if a cold chisel that measures about .5" would work. If the sides are 3/8", the diameter is roughly .5". If I can wedge the chisel in diagonally, I'm wondering if that would give enough grip to turn the bolt.
I've already unloaded a whole can of PB Blaster over that bolt. Right now, it's just a matter of stubbornness to get that bolt off. However, if I can fill the fluid through the back-up light switch (just below the fill plug), or if I can fill fluid using the sealing bolt (just above the drain plug), I could do that, too. But, I'd still love to get this fill plug off and put in a new one and pay attention to it not to let it get so rusted again.
 

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V6 6MT CBP
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The chisel method I'm thinking about here is not just chiseling away from the outer edge. This filler bolt is a recessed 3/8" square hole, meant for the 3/8" socket extension. I'm wondering if a cold chisel that measures about .5" would work. If the sides are 3/8", the diameter is roughly .5". If I can wedge the chisel in diagonally, I'm wondering if that would give enough grip to turn the bolt.
I've already unloaded a whole can of PB Blaster over that bolt. Right now, it's just a matter of stubbornness to get that bolt off. However, if I can fill the fluid through the back-up light switch (just below the fill plug), or if I can fill fluid using the sealing bolt (just above the drain plug), I could do that, too. But, I'd still love to get this fill plug off and put in a new one and pay attention to it not to let it get so rusted again.
I was thinking something like this, from the chain case bolt on my snowmobile. You can see where I drove the chisel into the outer area at an angle, which eventually started turning the bolt. You have to start straight on to get a lip to dig into before laying the chisel on its side to rotate the bolt as you hit it. Pretty much replacement at that point, but it did come out without destroying the hole.

Finger Natural material Nickel Thumb Circle
 

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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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Did you try to make sure it is scraped out good. There was a bunch of junk in mine stuck pretty hard on the bottom. Dremel with small wire brush attachment?

It's not too bad at Home Depot or Lowe's to get the new 1/2" impact extension and 1/2">3/8" impact adaptor to use with a 1/2" breaker bar. I think I got like a 12" or longer extension. It made it so I had 1 straight shot with an easy to keep flat/straight pull. I also made sure to pull toward me NOT push toward windshield in case it slipped/or broke.

My thought on the chisel is you are only putting pressure on 2 spots not all four sides in full contact (like a 12 pt vs 6 pt socket for tough stuck bolts/nuts). The chisel isn't really made to be twisted that way. I don't know what would happen.

Maybe a heat gun or hair dryer first and then the duster can upside down. After all the PB or other, spray the recessed out with brake cleaner to get rid of any lubrication in the hole. Nice dry sides with the new adaptor. If it's not sitting all the way down maybe even grind a bit off end of the adaptor where it is rounded off some?

If that hard I might consider like a Matco, Snap-on, Proto adaptor.

Which Ryobi 18V? some only have 300 ft/lbs torque, not that much. Maybe you can rent or borrow a dewalt, milwaukee etc. If you have a compressor, some of the air ones are really good.

Update your profile so it shows location when you hover over the flag. There might be a member close to lend a hand or tool.
 

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2013 Honda Accord Coupe LX-S 4-6
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Have you gotten the filler plug to loosen? I brought it to my friend at a dealer to try and loosen the fill plug since it was so tight and he struggled to get it off. He had to pull out the longest 1/2 breaker bar I've seen. It was probably 3 feet long and super stout. He told me to try and crack the bolt loose since he didn't want to be liable for damages if the bolt snapped. So I decided to try it, and it was the loudest and hardest crack I've heard from a fill bolt. I thought I snapped the bolt at first but it finally cracked loose.
 

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2015 Accord EX sedan 6MT Alabaster Silver
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have you gotten the filler plug to loosen? I brought it to my friend at a dealer to try and loosen the fill plug since it was so tight and he struggled to get it off. He had to pull out the longest 1/2 breaker bar I've seen. It was probably 3 feet long and super stout. He told me to try and crack the bolt loose since he didn't want to be liable for damages if the bolt snapped. So I decided to try it, and it was the loudest and hardest crack I've heard from a fill bolt. I thought I snapped the bolt at first but it finally cracked loose.
I haven't tried yet. Been busy. And can't afford to have car out of commission at the moment. I'm going to try heat first when I get to it some time next week. .
 

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I haven't tried yet. Been busy. And can't afford to have car out of commission at the moment. I'm going to try heat first when I get to it some time next week. .
Good luck, I'm not sure how much heat and penetrating fluid will help tbh. It's the heat that causes the fill plug to basically bond with the aluminum block. Just gotta use a big 1/2 in breaker bar with an extension to a 3/8 adapter and hope for the best. It sucked
 
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