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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Y'all, I've seen a few links here and there via searching and I haven't found exactly what I'm looking for...

I'm done paying the car off and now I have an extra $500/month to spend, and I'm looking to upgrade the sound system finally.

I'm gonna start with the speakers. I thought this wouldn't be too difficult but this is the first time I've ever thought of upgrading speakers without upgrading the deck. With that said, I'm not sure exactly how to find what kind of power comes out of the stock deck. I cannot find this anywhere. I want to get some real nice sounding speakers but I don't want to waste money paying for speakers that can accept way more power than the deck can produce.

So first question, does anyone know where i can find this?

Also, do I need any kind of converters just to switch the speakers out, no new amps or anything, just plug and play speakers hopefully.

Lastly, will this speaker swap cause havoc with the noise cancelling?

I realize that if I put a sub in, I'll probably have to disable the noise cancel system. But since I'm only replacing speakers, will this be an issue?

Thanks everyone.
 

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There's ton of information related to this already you should take some time to review. It would be helpful if you post details of the equipment you're considering so that accurate guidance can be provided.
 

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You don’t state which system you have in your car, which makes a difference. From my tear down of an ex-l amplifier I found that the true power rating is 22 watts per channel. If you have a base system the output will be less than that, most likely around 14 watts per channel. Upgrading only the speakers might increase the sound quality but it will lower the overall loudness. The noise cancelling only affects added amplifiers.
 

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The Touring trim should have the touchscreen H/U with the outboard amp.

To start out, just head to your local specialty stereo shop and let your ears tell you what speakers to get. The OEM amp is relatively weak but will power a decent set of components just fine. I would recommend a decent set of components and a smallish two channel amp. The OEM H/U actually puts out a really good signal to the OEM amp that can be interfaced and fed into the low level inputs of most amps (just make sure it can handle balanced differential inputs). If you were to come into my shop, I would probably look into a long term install and let you save up a few months of payments to make a big change as opposed to small steps.
 

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I noticed that the factory amp is tuned fairly well. I dropped in audiofrog GB speakers and was surprised at how good they sound with stock HU and amp. I would suggest the GS series if you're looking for better overall quality with stock equipment. Biggest issue then is level matching the tweeters to the mids.

If you plan doing a major install with amp and processing I'd follow lashlee's advice.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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You don’t state which system you have in your car, which makes a difference. From my tear down of an ex-l amplifier I found that the true power rating is 22 watts per channel. If you have a base system the output will be less than that, most likely around 14 watts per channel. Upgrading only the speakers might increase the sound quality but it will lower the overall loudness. The noise cancelling only affects added amplifiers.
I have a '16 Accord Touring 4D and was thinking of upgrading the front tweeters, front woofers, and rear speakers in addition to putting everything through an 8-channel amp with built-in DSP. My main complaint with the system is that there seem to be poor mids (but I'm used to Bose speakers, which apparently are all mids, so go figure).

I was talking to Crutchfield about how I really would not like to change out the sub, as I don't notice any problems with it. I don't listen to my music very loud (15-20 via CarPlay, if that's any indicator, or 20-25 via Bluetooth), so loudness is not an issue either. I really just want the DSP capabilities and also to replace the speakers with decent aftermarket ones. Crutchfield says the rear sub speaker can't be replaced and put into the same stock location because of some oddities with the shape of the stock speaker (aftermarket speakers are too wide or something, and the car's metal would have to be cut in order to make it fit, I believe).

Crutchfield said I may be at risk for blowing the stock subwoofer if this JBL amp, which is 40 W at 4 Ω and 60 W at 2 Ω, is too powerful for the stock sub. I saw somewhere on this forum that someone claimed the stock speakers are 4 Ω but the stock sub is 2 Ω, in which case I'm pushing 60 W to it instead of 22 W. Would this definitely be an issue? Also, am I understanding things right?
 

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Crutchfield is correct about the stock subwoofer replacement issues but not about it’s compatibility with the amplifier you are looking at. The stock subwoofer is powered by two channels bridged into one output, meaning its recieving roughly 40 watts. The amp you are looking at is not overly powerful so it is not likely to damage the subwoofer. Furthermore, the amplifier has a direct controller for the subwoofer channel so you can set it to a manageable level. If you are happy with it, keep the stock sub and use that amp.
 

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Crutchfield is correct about the stock subwoofer replacement issues but not about it’s compatibility with the amplifier you are looking at. The stock subwoofer is powered by two channels bridged into one output, meaning its recieving roughly 40 watts. The amp you are looking at is not overly powerful so it is not likely to damage the subwoofer. Furthermore, the amplifier has a direct controller for the subwoofer channel so you can set it to a manageable level. If you are happy with it, keep the stock sub and use that amp.
Thank you very, very much! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There's ton of information related to this already you should take some time to review. It would be helpful if you post details of the equipment you're considering so that accurate guidance can be provided.
But I stated in my original post that I have seen some stuff here but not found EXACTLY what I was looking for. I wrote out specifically what I was looking for and it had nothing to do with what equipment I was considering, only what equipment I actually have. Your post is extremely unhelpful.

You don’t state which system you have in your car, which makes a difference. From my tear down of an ex-l amplifier I found that the true power rating is 22 watts per channel. If you have a base system the output will be less than that, most likely around 14 watts per channel. Upgrading only the speakers might increase the sound quality but it will lower the overall loudness. The noise cancelling only affects added amplifiers.
I stated that I have the 2016 Accord Touring Coupe and I'm asking people here if they know what kind of system I have. I obviously do not know what kind of system I have, which is why I asked very specific questions. The first one being "where can I find this?" essentially asking the question "what system do I have?"

So why would I ask "what system do i have" if I knew what system I had?

With all of that said, I did end up just going to a shop and having them switch everything out with higher end speakers. It made a shit ton of difference as far as the interiors go. Upgrading the speakers from stock to anything, even garbage walmart speakers, almost always increases the sound quality. I've never been happy with stock speakers even in higher end vehicles.

Thanks for answering about noise cancelling. I ended up getting a 12" sub as well so the guys at the shop had to disable noise cancelling.

The Touring trim should have the touchscreen H/U with the outboard amp.

To start out, just head to your local specialty stereo shop and let your ears tell you what speakers to get. The OEM amp is relatively weak but will power a decent set of components just fine. I would recommend a decent set of components and a smallish two channel amp. The OEM H/U actually puts out a really good signal to the OEM amp that can be interfaced and fed into the low level inputs of most amps (just make sure it can handle balanced differential inputs). If you were to come into my shop, I would probably look into a long term install and let you save up a few months of payments to make a big change as opposed to small steps.
Thanks. I actually wasn't asking what speakers to buy, i was asking what kind of power the system puts out to know what level speakers might be overkill. I thought that was obvious, sorry.

I did end up getting components in the front and 2 ways for the rear, as well as a 12" sub for the back. They said the same thing about how the H/U puts out a good signal to feed to the sub through a converter. I had a local shop do everything for me all at once. Totally worth it. They didn't disconnect the stock sub but I'm thinking of doing it myself.

The only complaint I've had so far is there are some frequencies that the sub hits that cause super loud rattling from who knows where. I found a few spots. One of them being the window controls on the drivers side. I have no idea how to stop them from rattling without yanking them out. I know that the rear panel where the speakers are will cause a lot of rattling, and I've seen youtube vids of people sticking socks up in there, fixing it. I haven't gotten around to doing all of that investigation yet. If you know of any guides on how to reduce the rattling in this model or family of vehicles, please let me know.

Thank you.
 

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But I stated in my original post that I have seen some stuff here but not found EXACTLY what I was looking for. I wrote out specifically what I was looking for and it had nothing to do with what equipment I was considering, only what equipment I actually have. Your post is extremely unhelpful.



I stated that I have the 2016 Accord Touring Coupe and I'm asking people here if they know what kind of system I have. I obviously do not know what kind of system I have, which is why I asked very specific questions. The first one being "where can I find this?" essentially asking the question "what system do I have?"

So why would I ask "what system do i have" if I knew what system I had?

With all of that said, I did end up just going to a shop and having them switch everything out with higher end speakers. It made a shit ton of difference as far as the interiors go. Upgrading the speakers from stock to anything, even garbage walmart speakers, almost always increases the sound quality. I've never been happy with stock speakers even in higher end vehicles.

Thanks for answering about noise cancelling. I ended up getting a 12" sub as well so the guys at the shop had to disable noise cancelling.



Thanks. I actually wasn't asking what speakers to buy, i was asking what kind of power the system puts out to know what level speakers might be overkill. I thought that was obvious, sorry.

I did end up getting components in the front and 2 ways for the rear, as well as a 12" sub for the back. They said the same thing about how the H/U puts out a good signal to feed to the sub through a converter. I had a local shop do everything for me all at once. Totally worth it. They didn't disconnect the stock sub but I'm thinking of doing it myself.

The only complaint I've had so far is there are some frequencies that the sub hits that cause super loud rattling from who knows where. I found a few spots. One of them being the window controls on the drivers side. I have no idea how to stop them from rattling without yanking them out. I know that the rear panel where the speakers are will cause a lot of rattling, and I've seen youtube vids of people sticking socks up in there, fixing it. I haven't gotten around to doing all of that investigation yet. If you know of any guides on how to reduce the rattling in this model or family of vehicles, please let me know.

Thank you.
So, I don't know much at all about sound deadening, but I've heard only good things about the website sounddeadenershowdown.com, which has a ton of information. The site recently went offline (as the owner retired in 2019 and was nice enough to keep it up for over a year afterwards), but you can use archive.org to access it. Here is some info on the different types of materials: Products | Sound Deadener Showdown

To prevent your rattles, it seems like you need a butyl sound deadener, aka "CLD tiles" by Sound Deadener Showdown when they used to sell them. You shouldn't need to cover 100% of each panel with butyl; according to SDS, you should "cover 25% of the surface distributed over the central 50-75% of the panel." Perhaps someone with more knowledge can chime in, too!
 

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But I stated in my original post that I have seen some stuff here but not found EXACTLY what I was looking for. I wrote out specifically what I was looking for and it had nothing to do with what equipment I was considering, only what equipment I actually have. Your post is extremely unhelpful.



I stated that I have the 2016 Accord Touring Coupe and I'm asking people here if they know what kind of system I have. I obviously do not know what kind of system I have, which is why I asked very specific questions. The first one being "where can I find this?" essentially asking the question "what system do I have?"

So why would I ask "what system do i have" if I knew what system I had?

With all of that said, I did end up just going to a shop and having them switch everything out with higher end speakers. It made a shit ton of difference as far as the interiors go. Upgrading the speakers from stock to anything, even garbage walmart speakers, almost always increases the sound quality. I've never been happy with stock speakers even in higher end vehicles.

Thanks for answering about noise cancelling. I ended up getting a 12" sub as well so the guys at the shop had to disable noise cancelling.



Thanks. I actually wasn't asking what speakers to buy, i was asking what kind of power the system puts out to know what level speakers might be overkill. I thought that was obvious, sorry.

I did end up getting components in the front and 2 ways for the rear, as well as a 12" sub for the back. They said the same thing about how the H/U puts out a good signal to feed to the sub through a converter. I had a local shop do everything for me all at once. Totally worth it. They didn't disconnect the stock sub but I'm thinking of doing it myself.

The only complaint I've had so far is there are some frequencies that the sub hits that cause super loud rattling from who knows where. I found a few spots. One of them being the window controls on the drivers side. I have no idea how to stop them from rattling without yanking them out. I know that the rear panel where the speakers are will cause a lot of rattling, and I've seen youtube vids of people sticking socks up in there, fixing it. I haven't gotten around to doing all of that investigation yet. If you know of any guides on how to reduce the rattling in this model or family of vehicles, please let me know.

Thank you.
The best source for all things audio here is user : keep_hope_alive .He’s done a top notch installation in his car and has already answered many of the questions people are still asking. He’s also posted a video on youtube specifically about the materials used in car audio istallations. You can see it here :
.
I applied many of his recommendations in my own installation.
A quick and “dirty” solution for the biggest source of rattling is to jam a rolled up small to medium sized microfiber towel between the third brakelight housing and the rear window. That stopped the rear deck rattle for me until I removed the rear deck and applied sound deadener and insulation to properly quiet the whole area.
 

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But I stated in my original post that I have seen some stuff here but not found EXACTLY what I was looking for. I wrote out specifically what I was looking for and it had nothing to do with what equipment I was considering, only what equipment I actually have. Your post is extremely unhelpful.
Stop being a lazy bum, and conduct your independent research first! You will just create unnecessary frustration on your end that no one cares about. Because you believe you aren't getting the answers you want/need. No one on the forum is going to assemble all the information and spoon feed it to you. :ROFLMAO:
 
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