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2016 Accord - Rattle On Startup, Intermittent Oil Warning Light

6298 Views 30 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  mtts60
Hello! I have been lurking on here for a while to get repair & maintenance tips, but it looks like I need a little more guidance from our resident experts. This is my wife's car, and while she has no complaints, I can't just let odd engine rattles and blinking warning lights go unattended. That tends to get very costly...

Car details:
2016 EX-L w/ L4 + CVT
~75K miles
CVT fluid replaced w/ genuine Honda fluid @ 50K miles
Engine mounts, struts & suspension bushings all look fine and do not have play in them

The engine will make rattling noises on cold starts, and particularly when cold or luke-warm and braking down to a stop as the RPM settles back to idle. Now that I have experienced a more severe episode of the rattling, I can recognize that the car has done this to varying degrees for at least the last few years. I come from driving VW diesels and and old BMW with a strung-out 4 cylinder that was not designed with balance shafts and is now fitted with a 7.4lb flywheel...so a "rough idle" in a 4 cylinder does not immediately trigger my spidey-sense.

The Accord's rattle is highly dependent on how long it has been since the last oil change, with very little or none of this behavior for the first few thousand miles. To my embarrassment, likely due to COVID and basically losing track of the last 18 months, I let the oil go almost 13K miles between changes a couple of months ago (I run Mobil1 Extended Performance 5W20, which is supposedly good for 10-12K, but I usually change it at 7K). I had changed the oil on both of our other cars in mid 2021 and must have mixed up in my mind which cars I had serviced. Anyway, what tipped me off was the particularly bad engine rattling and the fact that the oil pressure light would flash on for ~0.5sec when coming to a stop within 2-3 minutes of a cold start. I only saw it do this twice over 3 days. although it may have been doing it for up to a few weeks since my wife is the primary driver of the car.

I checked my records and immediately changed the oil upon realizing my oversight. About 3.25qt of oil was retrieved from the engine, so it was low, but certainly not enough that the oil pickup would have been pulling air under light braking. My assumption has been that the oil was simply old and had undergone viscous breakdown, thinning out enough that the system was not pressurizing adequately. Frankly, that seems sort of unlikely since the oil light never flashed with a warm engine when the oil would have been even thinner, but I cannot think of other good explanations.

So, based on my lurking here and other reading, it sounds like there is at least one problem. The main thing people seem to point to is a faulty VTC actuator. The car's production date is March 2016, which I believe is right around when an updated VTC actuator was released for the K24W engine, so it's anyone's guess which version the engine was built with. However, a number of posts on here, as well as a relatively recent TSB (19-019) indicate that the issue is the timing chain tensioner. Given how many people seem to have the noise return within a year of replacing the VTC actuator, I can believe that the bigger culprit is the tensioner.

Since the tensioner is significantly easier to replace and the car easily falls into the TSB 19-019 range of affected vehicles, I am going to replace that first to see if it helps with the rattle. A question I have is if the faulty tensioner could also be related to the oil pressure light flickering on...when it goes bad, does it basically create a big internal oil leak? The failure sounds like it is related to internal wear in the part, which allows too much oil to flow through and not generate sufficient force on the timing chain.

The parts I plan to order are:
14510-5A2-A02 - Cam chain tensioner (CCT)
14560-5A2-A00 - CCT filter (50/50 on this one, I assume I can just clean the original)
08717-1194 - Hondabond tube
11412-5A2-A00 - CCT access cover
(the following two items are cheap and easy to access, and since it sounds like clogged filter screens are a thing on these engines, I might as well do them while in there)
15845-5A2-A01 - VTC filter assembly
15841-5A2-A00 - VTC strainer body

If the above don't eliminate the rattle noises, then the next items on my list (and a separate project) include:
14310-5A2-A01 - VTC actuator assembly
15830-5A2-A01 - VTC oil control valve assy (relatively easy to get to, seems like it would be prone to any clogging-type issues as much as the other parts)


What are people's thoughts on the first group of parts I plan to replace? Is there anything else I should consider doing while there? The CCT looks like a very easy part to replace, at least compared to the VTC actuator. I am no stranger to working on engines and servicing timing chain systems, so I am up for doing the VTC actuator as well, but I'd rather do other things with a Saturday afternoon if it is not actually defective.

Thanks!
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I had the rattle on cold starts from the timing chain tensioner when I bought the car at 72k. The valve cover gasket was also leaking pretty badly. I changed the TCT and the rattle went away on cold starts and has been good for over 10k miles. Recently just had the valve cover gasket, plug seals, and PCV replaced and the engine seems to be a little quieter.
I don't know if I could go that many miles without changing the oil even though some may last up to 10k. I did mine at 5300 miles and the oil was really black. I try to change it around 4-5k miles as vtec needs good lubrication and oil to work properly. I usually don't hit vtec much but I drive pretty spiritedly so fresh oil is always good for the engine.
Great write-up!
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Well, I did mine today. 2015 Sport with ~94,600 miles on it. It took me maybe 2 hours, partly because I needed to go get stuff at the bench in the garage or in the basement about 100 times, and this is the first major wrenching I've done since I lost my 7th gen about 19 months ago so I was a little more apprehensive than I may have been otherwise. I just got this car a few weeks ago. I guess you can say I'm still learning my way around this car.

So far, it seems to have fixed the rattle on startup. No leaks either.

When I put the cover back on after applying the Hondabond, I put one screw in a hole and tried to get the other two in. Well, I found out that one screw wasn't threaded when the cover fell off. The Hondabond hadn't skinned yet, so I put the cover back on and this time got the screws in and torqued to 12 lb-ft. I didn't know how long to wait for the Hondabond to cure, so I figured longer is better and waited 4 hours before starting it up. It rattled as expected that first time, but has been quiet since. The real test will come over the next few days.

My old CCT looks just like the new one. The car's previous owner had most if not all work done at another Honda dealer in the state, and I was able to get those service records. This job was not on any of those invoices, but I can't say if the old part is the -A02 design or not. Mine had the filter too, and thankfully I can return that $125 part.

You can see the wear on the top of the piston/actuator:
Cloud Personal protective equipment Wood Glove Wrist

The old one extended out about 5mm further than the new one but the bodies are the same length:
Wood Gas Font Metal Machine

Liquid Perfume Fluid Jewellery Electric blue
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I’m starting to hear a startup rattle on mine. I will be doing this in spring, I’m just not sure about doing it myself yet…good info here.
I’m starting to hear a startup rattle on mine. I will be doing this in spring, I’m just not sure about doing it myself yet…good info here.
It seems more intimidating than it actually is. I followed the TSB steps and it took no more than 30 minutes to complete. I think raising the car, putting stands underneath, and removing the wheel, took longer than the actual replacement of the tensioner. I did this the day before I went on a 1500+ mile drive to Florida.
..........guess the TSB was accurate since I made it there and back.
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Well, I did mine today. 2015 Sport with ~94,600 miles on it. It took me maybe 2 hours, partly because I needed to go get stuff at the bench in the garage or in the basement about 100 times, and this is the first major wrenching I've done since I lost my 7th gen about 19 months ago so I was a little more apprehensive than I may have been otherwise. I just got this car a few weeks ago. I guess you can say I'm still learning my way around this car.

So far, it seems to have fixed the rattle on startup. No leaks either.

When I put the cover back on after applying the Hondabond, I put one screw in a hole and tried to get the other two in. Well, I found out that one screw wasn't threaded when the cover fell off. The Hondabond hadn't skinned yet, so I put the cover back on and this time got the screws in and torqued to 12 lb-ft. I didn't know how long to wait for the Hondabond to cure, so I figured longer is better and waited 4 hours before starting it up. It rattled as expected that first time, but has been quiet since. The real test will come over the next few days.

My old CCT looks just like the new one. The car's previous owner had most if not all work done at another Honda dealer in the state, and I was able to get those service records. This job was not on any of those invoices, but I can't say if the old part is the -A02 design or not. Mine had the filter too, and thankfully I can return that $125 part.

You can see the wear on the top of the piston/actuator:
View attachment 547660
The old one extended out about 5mm further than the new one but the bodies are the same length:
View attachment 547661
View attachment 547662
Your tensioner is extremely dirty and dark compared to when I took mine out at 75k miles. I started my car up shortly after putting the Hondabond on and haven't had any issues. I also started my engine up after getting the valve cover gasket replaced and you're suppose to wait for the Hondabond to cure.
While you're looking at the cam chain tensioner, measure this distance to see if the cam chain itself needs to be replaced as well.

Attachments

I had the dealer do the CCT on my '17 not long after I bought it used because of the start up rattle. It was covered under the powertrain warranty with the TSB.

I'm looking at the pictures of bmwman91 vs mtts60 and I'm thinking the oil changes have been too long intervals and/or not as quality oil in mtts60's. That seems to be a lot of dark oil staining with the added possibility of other wear. I use full synthetic in all my cars and all the aluminum parts that can be seen are silver and shiny. When oil is changed it stays clean and very light transparent for a decent time frame. The Accord and Pilot are on about 7500-10000 miles changes with oil life monitor. They normally get either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum. Kids cars get the same but prior owners of both had dealers or Firestone use whatever syn-blend or dino. They have staining but nowhere near as dark as what I see on mtts60's.

Others cars that I check or work on sometimes have significant staining like that and the owners are unsure often on maintenance schedules and when last done. The staining is not an overall issue for me but points to higher heat breakdown, viscosity issues and other future concerns. My daughters '08 CRV with 217k is clean and shiny through at least oil fill. knock on wood, I have not needed to tear into anything. I did have the dealer do a valve adjustment on it at about 212k. They said all was clean and valves not far off. It doesn't burn any oil and when I change it, it stays clean and hard to see on the dipstick for a while.

@mtts60 - what oil and filters do you use normally? What is the change schedule for mileage? Have you had the vehicle since new?

edit- sorry just re-read that you are new owner with it. You might want to consider doing a BG EPR flush (I mentioned in some other threads) and the PCV. Then work on some more frequent oil changes with a good filter and oil. The dark staining leads me to believe it was neglected by prior owner.
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5 consecutive days without a rattle! It did rattle the day after, then the next day it didn't rattle, then it did the third day, then quiet since. It rattled only once on each of the days it did, when before it would rattle on 90% of the starts.

Youse :) got me thinking about the oil situation here. I have the dealership service records the original owner had, and it shows the last oil change was December 2021 and about 10,000 miles ago. So I thought today would be a good oil change day.

Under the engine I found a Valvoline oil filter so clearly the oil had been changed since then; no Honda dealer would install a non-Honda oil filter. Anyhow, the Valvoline filter is maybe 1/2" shorter than the Honda filter I put on. The oil that came out was black black black.
Wow, that tensioner is dark, but as long as you didn't find sludge I guess it doesn't really matter. My old one was pretty much the same color as the new one. I'm interested to see what the top of that engine looks like.
Update:

Replacing the cam chain tensioner did not fix the issue for me. It doesn't rattle as much, sometimes I can go two days without a rattle, but it still does. Before, it would rattle on nearly every start. Now it's only first time in the day.

Maybe I need a new timing chain, a job I'm not too willing to do, or maybe just replace some spring in a gear in the head.
2
Update to the update: no more rattle!

My startup rattle has been completely fixed. 30 days on with not one rattle!

It was a two-front war here. Both the cam chain tensioner and the VTC gear spring needed to be replaced in order to completely fix the problem.

First I changed the CCT. That reduced the rattling, but it didn’t eliminate it.

Then I found out about spring-start.com and ordered their kit (this one). It included three springs and a 5-point Torx bit for the VTC gear cover. Two of the springs were identical, the third was the same length as the other two but silver instead of brown. My spring, which had about 98,000 miles on it at the time, was 1-2 mm shorter than those supplied by spring-start. On April 25, 2023 I installed one of the brown springs and it made all the difference. No more rattle!

No longer do I dread starting the engine.

I encourage people to support the folks at spring-start.com. They actually do answer their e-mails, even on Sunday! I e-mailed them on a Sunday, asking what the difference was between the silver and brown springs. I had already started the disassembly and, not expecting a response until Monday, I put one of those brown springs in.

They did get back to me on Sunday, but everything had been reassembled and the Hondabond was curing by the time I noticed their response. (which was: the silver spring is a test, one that has slightly more compression resistance than the brown springs.) It must be very slightly more. All 3 springs start compressing with only an ounce or two of pressure.

In the event I need to re-do this, I’m keeping the special Torx bit and remaining springs.

If you need to replace the spring, you will also need two gaskets: for the valve cover (12341-5a2-a01) and a much smaller one for the top of the head under the cover (12342-5a2-a01), plus some Hondabond 4.

I have also learned we should be using API “SP”-rated oil. Why? It’s designed to provide wear protection for timing chains, for one. See it here: API oil categories



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