2016 Accord V6 -vibrates when braking at high speed
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As the OP said, you're rotors and/or pads are most likely the cause. Not sure if the warranty will cover this sort of issue or not.
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Sounds like maybe you have made a few hard or long stops and depressed the brake pedal too hard causing pad material transfer to the rotors. There are a few ways of dealing with this: 1. Have the rotors turned. This will increase the chance of getting a slight warpage, and may reduce the life of the rotors. 2. Find an empty stretch of road where you can get up to about 60 MPH and do several hard stops, just to the edge of where the ABS kicks in, but do not come to a complete stop. This will heat up the rotors enough to allow the pads to clean the surface of the baked on pad material.
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Rotors warped. My 2017 odyssey's brakes are warped after 10k miles.
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As I understand things, it is not the long hard stop that is the problem, it is holding the brake firmly afterwards. The long hard stop may heat up the brakes, but pressing the brakes hard when stopped with hot brakes is what causes the uneven material transfer. Brake hard, but let up at the end while rolling, and use minimal braking force to hold the car still.
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If I know I'm going to have to brake hard and come to a complete stop, I usually try to brake hard enough, if I can do so safely, a bit before I need to stop. This leave me enough space to inch forward until I can proceed. The key is not letting the brake pad stay in contact with the rotor in one spot. Light pressure, just enough to keep the car from moving is OK, but like @Kamdog said, the long, hard stop followed by depressing the brake pedal hard is what causes pad material transfer to rotors.
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My experience with Honda pads is that they all do this at high speed. They heat up very quickly and tend to over emphasize even the slightest pad deposit difference on the rotors. Pretty much every Honda I have ever owned has caused shudder at high speed... not with 0 miles but at least after 6 months of use.
If it doesn't do it at low speed, I would ignore it while outside of warranty. During warranty Honda will machine the rotors, they did mine after only 6 months of ownership. They claimed the rotors were out of round, out of spec.
If it doesn't do it at low speed, I would ignore it while outside of warranty. During warranty Honda will machine the rotors, they did mine after only 6 months of ownership. They claimed the rotors were out of round, out of spec.
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What do you guys think about car washes also being bad for hot rotors?
I always try to let my car cool down before entering a car wash. I don't have the luxury of washing my car at home so I have to drive it somewhere.
I fear the instant cooling effect of water on a hot rotor can cause it to warp. I'm I wrong?
I always try to let my car cool down before entering a car wash. I don't have the luxury of washing my car at home so I have to drive it somewhere.
I fear the instant cooling effect of water on a hot rotor can cause it to warp. I'm I wrong?
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Maybe we're over thinking this one.
If that were the case what would you think happens when driving 60-65 mph and braking hard on the off-ramp then you hit a cold puddle of water and drench the rotors?
Or
during the winter same thing except you hit slush puddle ?
Even around town, stop n go traffic gets those rotors pretty warm but never have I warped a rotor from hitting a puddle, etc.
Nothing wrong with being cautious but how hard are you riding the brakes before you go directly into the car wash?
See where I'm going here?
Only thing might be a day at the track and at the end of the "race" or autocross you hit a cold water puddle. MAYBE then it would be a problem with normal street rotors.
There is one very simple possible reason that's being overlooked here, and I'm surprised no one has mentioned it: Make sure the wheel lug nuts are torqued down evenly, on all 4 wheels.
And 2, re-bed the pads as others said. 10 rounds of 60mph down to 10 ~ 15mph continuous braking, without stopping. After the very last round, stop and let the brakes cool, do not engage the rear e-brakes. You'll see smoke coming from the brakes but next day, it should feel different. You should be able to find an open stretch of road to do this very late at night. That's what I do when I install new pads and rotors.
If the above 2 have been done already, then either the pads aren't sliding in and out properly on the brake hardware or the caliper isn't clamping evenly up and down. In this case, you need to take it apart and clean/change the brake hardware and re-lube the caliper slider pins. Most likely reason in this scenario being dried up slider pins, could be just 1, or both pins, causing the caliper to clamp in unevenly. This causes the pads to squeeze more either toward the top or bottom, then you get that pulsing sensation, but it is NOT a warped rotor at all. This is when you see pads wear slanted.
And 2, re-bed the pads as others said. 10 rounds of 60mph down to 10 ~ 15mph continuous braking, without stopping. After the very last round, stop and let the brakes cool, do not engage the rear e-brakes. You'll see smoke coming from the brakes but next day, it should feel different. You should be able to find an open stretch of road to do this very late at night. That's what I do when I install new pads and rotors.
If the above 2 have been done already, then either the pads aren't sliding in and out properly on the brake hardware or the caliper isn't clamping evenly up and down. In this case, you need to take it apart and clean/change the brake hardware and re-lube the caliper slider pins. Most likely reason in this scenario being dried up slider pins, could be just 1, or both pins, causing the caliper to clamp in unevenly. This causes the pads to squeeze more either toward the top or bottom, then you get that pulsing sensation, but it is NOT a warped rotor at all. This is when you see pads wear slanted.
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The causes can be many... the rotors, alignment...
Start checking the most easier: if the problem happened from the very beginning when you bought your car, then the anti-lock system is activated and you will feel the brakes making a weird sound of vibration and the sensation is uncomfortable.
If the problem happens after driving the vehicle after thousands and thousands of miles, then check the rotors. It is very easy to check for waves in rotors just after pulling off the tires.
If the rotors, pads and calipers look "sound", then you might check the alignment... and so forth.
Start checking the most easier: if the problem happened from the very beginning when you bought your car, then the anti-lock system is activated and you will feel the brakes making a weird sound of vibration and the sensation is uncomfortable.
If the problem happens after driving the vehicle after thousands and thousands of miles, then check the rotors. It is very easy to check for waves in rotors just after pulling off the tires.
If the rotors, pads and calipers look "sound", then you might check the alignment... and so forth.
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937 Posts
I had some pulsation and rather than pay $180 to have the front rotors turned at Honda or pay Honda well over $100/rotor plus labor, I replaced them with Centric Premium from CarID.com for $35 each. Very nice rotors and they have a black coating on the edges that looks great behind the wide-spoke black wheels. Factory rotors had rust on the edges in short order, these should last a good bit longer until it gets to that point. The coating is supposed to resist corrosion for up to 400 hours of salt exposure. Braking is perfectly smooth now, what a difference.
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