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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I have a few questions about some new things I have noticed with my car. It's a 2017 Touring V6 with 45,000 miles. I installed the S-VCM module on the car a few months ago and the car drove really good. It still does drive better but what I am noticing is a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. It's not every time but it seems to be getting more common. The dealer has already performed the TSB for the shudder before the s-vcm was installed and updated the computer multiple times. I can also hear a constant chattering noise from the engine bay area when driving at speeds over 65 mph. The noise gets alittle louder with light throttle but will go away with heavy throttle which usually causes the transmission to shift. One thing to note, there is a very loud knocking sound when idling after a cold start. The noise doesn't start right away. It starts about 30 to 45 seconds after the car has been running. Putting the car into drive or reverse causes the noise to go away completely. Hopefully this next point makes sense but let's say the car hasn't fully reached operating temperature, if I accelerate hard this knocking sound will return right before the car shifts to the next gear. Imagine pushing in the clutch before you shift gears in a manual, that's when the noise comes back. Once the cars warms up completely the noise goes away. I know the transmissions in these cars are clunky and jerky but I am not sure about the constant chattering above 65. I have been calling honda corporate to add each item to my case as they occur. The case hasn't progressed since June 8th 2021 when Honda stopped contacting me. I stopped taking the car in when an engineer diagnosed the issue as noisy high pressure fuel pump and they charged me $130 for the diagnosis. The car doesn't even have a high pressure fuel pump.

If you have any feedback I would greatly appreciate it. Right now I'm not sure what I'm going to do except keep driving it. My warranty runs out in April of this year.

I almost forgot, does anyone with the S-VCM installed ever experience a long crank after the car sits for maybe an hour? I have had this happen a few times and it usually starts but right after I can smell gas fumes coming through the vents.
 

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I have S-VCM on my 09 Accord J35Z, never experienced those symptoms or any symptoms. I might suggest it's past time to drain and fill the tranmission fluid wih Honda DW-1. The 09 transmission is pretty much the same as yours, I believe, without the 6th gear. I bought my car with 48k miles and felt a judder in second gear which disappeared after a fluid change. That's the least expensive thing you can try, which you need to do anyway.
 

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I almost forgot, does anyone with the S-VCM installed ever experience a long crank after the car sits for maybe an hour? I have had this happen a few times and it usually starts but right after I can smell gas fumes coming through the vents.
Completely random guess I'm throwing out there, but maybe a leaking fuel injector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses so far. The transmission fluid was changed at 29,000 and then the dealer did a TSB which reprogrammed the computer and flushed the transmission. That was done around 36,000. At this point I would believe anyone on this forum over the 4 dealers I have been to so don't hesitate to give ideas.
 

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A few things:

1) Have you tried removing the SVCM module the driving the car? NOTE: Don't remove it when the engine is warm as it will cause dashboard Christmas tree light syndrome. Make sure the engine is cold, as in before you even start it for the first time to disconnect the SVCM tuner.

2) Do you notice the RPM rising slightly between the 3-4 shift? Watch the tach and see how much, if any, it rises between the shift.

3) The noises you are describing could be related to a bad active engine mount.
 

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I almost forgot, does anyone with the S-VCM installed ever experience a long crank after the car sits for maybe an hour? I have had this happen a few times and it usually starts but right after I can smell gas fumes coming through the vents.
I don't have any experience with the S-VCM, but I did run the "VCM Tuner II" for a while. I ended up removing the device because of long crank times when the engine was in the 150 to 180 degree F range. After much experimentation that was determined to be the cause. I theorize that since the VCM defeating devices work by faking the temp readings to the engine computer, over time the engine computer makes adjustments to the operation mappings for the various engine systems. That in turn causes some issue when the engine tries to start up at certain temperatures. Whether this was mappings of the fuel, spark or something else, I don't know. I just know that the only thing that fixed the issue was deactivating/removing the "VCM Tuner II".

As for the noise near the shift points, maybe there is something loose that at a certain engine RPM (near where the shifting happens), it starts making a lot of noise.
 

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Are you the original owner of the car? Aside from the TSB service, did you experience all the other engine noise issues you described before installing the SVCM?

As I understand it. The best way to disable the VCM is by using one of the tuner options.
 

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I kicked my wife outta the car, the chatter stopped immediately! .

Sorry, I have no clue! Good luck


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As I understand it. The best way to disable the VCM is by using one of the tuner options.
S-VCM isn't a bad product. It does have a higher failure rate than the VCMTuner II but it still does work quite well.
 

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Side note: you should never flush an Accord AT. Use the search feature on top right of the page for verification. Yet dealer(s) did it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks everybody for the suggestions. I haven't disconnected the s-vcm since I installed it. That was back in October. I have always suspected an issue with the vcm system internal to the engine. I dont know enough about how it works yet to be able to tell but I have read where some other users reported rocker arm issues that were related to vcm. I always believed that that was the reason my car ran so poorly when vcm would activate. I will disconnect the s-vcm and see what changes.

I have heard bad stories about flushing Honda transmissions especially with the 2003 accords. I never had my 2003 accord flushed. I would just change the fluid every 30,000 and it helped alot. It made it 220,000 before we rebuilt it. The dealer flushed the 2017 as part of the Torque converter shudder TSB. Unfortunately I am not the original owner but the maintainance records show that normal maintenance was done by the previous owner. I already have some honda transmission fluid so I will probably go ahead and change it.
 

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I don't have any experience with the S-VCM, but I did run the "VCM Tuner II" for a while. I ended up removing the device because of long crank times when the engine was in the 150 to 180 degree F range. After much experimentation that was determined to be the cause. I theorize that since the VCM defeating devices work by faking the temp readings to the engine computer, over time the engine computer makes adjustments to the operation mappings for the various engine systems. That in turn causes some issue when the engine tries to start up at certain temperatures. Whether this was mappings of the fuel, spark or something else, I don't know. I just know that the only thing that fixed the issue was deactivating/removing the "VCM Tuner II".
Don't know if you've noticed, but depending on order date, a batch of VCMTuner IIs have been recalled by VCMTuner for this hard start issue.
 

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Any info on the recall?
I believe the affected buyers were emailed.

This is the email someone received and shared:
Recall on VCMTUNER II units shipped between 1/4/2022 and 1/10/2022.

Order dates between 12/28/2021 and 1/3/2022. You are receiving this e-mail because your order was within this timeframe.

We have seen a number of units not respond over the past week from customer feedback, some lockup and some are completely failed and do not respond after a power reset.

Symptoms include:

-Temp gauge not showing warmed up after 5-10 minutes of driving (e.g not going above the cold mark on the temp gauge)
-Intermittent hard or difficult starting, or no start in some cases.

At this time it is our best judgement to recall these units before you have experienced these issues.

We will be providing a USPS return label over e-mail which you can print to return the unit and place in a bubble mailer of your choice or affix to original packaging.
These return labels will be sent out in the next 24 hours, please check your spam folder if you do not see it by Friday the 21st.

We will be refunding these units including all shipping costs once received as we do not have an ETA on a fix for this issue.
If you have received your unit but have not opened the package you can do a return to sender w/ the post office without doing the return label.

For returns on international orders, please reach out to us directly. You can do a return to sender on these if they are not yet delivered.

In nearly 4 years of the VCMTUNER II on the market we have not had an issue like this to date, over 99% of VCMTUNER II units sold since 2018 are still in service.

We apologize for this hassle and inconvenience. Phone support will be limited during this time due to health issues w/ covid as our office is closed down at this time.

Sincerely,

Brock Eastman
Eastman Research LLC
VCMTUNER.COM
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
CORRECTION!! I don't know why I thought I had the S-VCM tuner instead of the Vcmtuner 2. I have in fact installed a vcmtuner 2. I just read the recall but my vcmtuner was purchased at the end of September and it was installed at the beginning of October. I just emailed them so I will see what they say.
 
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