[JShort]

Hello everyone, hoping to get some opinions on my issues with this car. 2018 Accord 1.6T

So I bought this car recently from my local Honda dealer on a Wednesday afternoon. Thursday evening I have all of these error codes come up while driving. Had it waiting at the dealer on Friday morning when they opened. They look it over and read the errors and said it was caused from the gas and brake being pushed at the same time. It causes the cpu to error out and throw 6-8 codes. They reset it and said all should be good. I asked if I could cancel the deal and get a new accord that day and they said the deal had been funded by the bank so they couldn’t “cancel” it but I could trade it in and pay the negative equity…I wasnt too pleased… but what choice did I have at the time. They said it was all fixed. Well it’s happened a few more times since this over the last month. If I park the car overnight the errors go away but it’s happened 3x this week… I’m going to the dealer tomorrow…

Any ideas if this is legit or what could be wrong here?

 

[Alimsgwe]

I had the same problem and codes when the car battery was about to die

 

[vinny68]

I agree with the previous post. This generation acts up as soon as the battery starts going bad - even if it’s still strong enough to start the car.

 

[Ronch]

If it has the original battery from 2018, it may be on its last legs. Honda OEM batteries rarely last 4 years. Have somebody you trust, test battery and alternator.

Check the level in each battery cell (caution: acid!), assuming it's not a sealed battery. If any of them is below the top of the plates, replace the battery. Also check the connections at the battery terminals and where the black wire grounds to the body. Clean off any corrosion at the battery terminals, and/or replace any corroded cables...

 

[RCarlL]

Hello everyone, hoping to get some opinions on my issues with this car. 2018 Accord 1.6T

So I bought this car recently from my local Honda dealer on a Wednesday afternoon. Thursday evening I have all of these error codes come up while driving. Had it waiting at the dealer on Friday morning when they opened. They look it over and read the errors and said it was caused from the gas and brake being pushed at the same time. It causes the cpu to error out and throw 6-8 codes. They reset it and said all should be good. I asked if I could cancel the deal and get a new accord that day and they said the deal had been funded by the bank so they couldn’t “cancel” it but I could trade it in and pay the negative equity…I wasnt too pleased… but what choice did I have at the time. They said it was all fixed. Well it’s happened a few more times since this over the last month. If I park the car overnight the errors go away but it’s happened 3x this week… I’m going to the dealer tomorrow…

Any ideas if this is legit or what could be wrong here?

Sounds like your local dealership is giving you the run-around. Pressing the gas and brake at the same time might be a bad idea in terms of driving... but it isn't going to set off a bunch of warning lights and codes.

Have a trusted mechanic do an inspection on the car. Like others have said- if the battery is original - that's likely the cause.

But- considering that your dealership is likely being less than honest with you (about a few things it seems), it might be a good idea to have a trusted independent mechanic give this car an inspection anyway.

In the future- having a trusted independent mechanic fully inspect a potential purchase is always a good idea. Just because you are buying it from a dealership doesn't mean that it's in good condition. Some dealers inspect and fix cars so that they are ready to go before they hit the lot... some do their best to hide potential issues and hope that potential buyers don't notice.

ALWAYS have a used car inspected by an independent mechanic before purchasing... regardless of the age or miles on the vehicle. Even relatively new cars should be inspected- as there is usually a reason why someone trades in a relatively new car. When spending that kind of money on a car- a $125-$150 inspection could save you tons of money and hassle down the road.

 

[keep_hope_alive]

Keep in mind that the ECU/ECM can see "low voltage" due to a bad ground connection. Bad grounds have extra resistance which causes voltage drop across them, meaning less of the voltage is "seen" by the rest of the car. Inspect/tighten all engine/chassis/battery grounds when this occurs with a good battery.

 

[hodosh]

Just putting my 2cents in here. Yup, it is the battery, happened to me 3 months ago. Car would not start nor could I even put brake on every warning light and more flashed across my dash. Called AAA they came out and gave me a jump...drove the car most of the day, figured it had charged itself. Get ready next day to go to work and yup you guessed it......same situation. Had AAA tow to dealer. Come to find out that if one, only one of the cells in the battery is weak or goes out it shuts down the whole electronic system therefore all the flashing lights etc. New battery everything fine.

I just think if Honda can put a warning icon on dash telling you that your tire pressure is low, why can't they do something about warning you that your battery is getting low.

 

[SleepyHobo]

Sounds like your local dealership is giving you the run-around. Pressing the gas and brake at the same time might be a bad idea in terms of driving... but it isn't going to set off a bunch of warning lights and codes.

Have a trusted mechanic do an inspection on the car. Like others have said- if the battery is original - that's likely the cause.

But- considering that your dealership is likely being less than honest with you (about a few things it seems), it might be a good idea to have a trusted independent mechanic give this car an inspection anyway.

In the future- having a trusted independent mechanic fully inspect a potential purchase is always a good idea. Just because you are buying it from a dealership doesn't mean that it's in good condition. Some dealers inspect and fix cars so that they are ready to go before they hit the lot... some do their best to hide potential issues and hope that potential buyers don't notice.

ALWAYS have a used car inspected by an independent mechanic before purchasing... regardless of the age or miles on the vehicle. Even relatively new cars should be inspected- as there is usually a reason why someone trades in a relatively new car. When spending that kind of money on a car- a $125-$150 inspection could save you tons of money and hassle down the road.

Most dealerships in my area don't entertain you wanting to have the car independently inspected, especially in this market. A day off the lot is a day they lose in the opportunity to sell the car. Plus, the car is out of their hands. They don't know what an unknown mechanic might do to the car. YMMV OP. Better off calling to ask if they'll allow it before even stepping foot in the dealership.

 

[DARKART]

Again I don’t understand dealer issues. I have never had a dealer (used or new car) refuse to allow an independent inspection nor refuse an extended test drive. Past sales, I have never had a dealer fight a warranty claim nor attempt to upsell services not needed.

As for the OP, likely it’s the battery.

 

[Alimsgwe]

I had the same problem and codes when the car battery was about to die View attachment 545210
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All warning icons appeared last week, and I believed it to be a problem with a weak battery. When it was working, the car refused to start with the subscription to another battery. The car was taken to the agent and the fault was checked. The fault was discovered due to the brake pedal light sensor, and it was replaced by a division of $25, and the work wage is $50 on my personal account with Knowing that the car is under warranty, but the agent refused on the pretext that I replaced the factory rear tail light with a non-original one