2019 Accord Hybrid Touring Transmission Service

13004 Views 69 Replies 24 Participants Last post by paintmann111, 4 mo ago

.167026

Discussion Starter · Dec 22, 2020 (Edited)

3

Had my hybrid transmission serviced today at dealer and was surprised to see them using a different fluid then Honda AND adding a conditioner. It’s called a premium trans service with conditioner 158$ 98 parts 60 labor. Wanted to get thoughts about the conditioner added AND using other then Honda DW-1 fluid. I was told by the service manager/scheduler THAT doing this type of service at the dealer with the conditioner came with some kind of 5000$ benefit should I run into problems later?? This struck me as odd and has certainly got me thinking 🤔. I have always serviced my older accords trans with the R&R and Honda DW1 Fluid but wasn’t sure about this newer hybrid trans so had them do the first one. Please see my pictures of the fluid used and conditioner and please chime in with ANY thoughts, comments or your personal experience with this. Thanks in advance. Regards, Bigdog

See less See more

41 - 60 of 70 Posts

Hunter Mike

· #41 · Jul 18, 2021 (Edited)

2

Ziyang said:
Can you possibly share the document for changing transmission fluid of our 10th gen Accord hybrid?

My own car is hitting 33k miles after 1 year of use, and I expect to do this at 40k miles.

Thanks!

Just remove the undercover to access the drain, then refill to the fill hole level. Replace the washer on the drain plug. Numbers by the fastener are torque specs. Last # is ft-lbs.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

Ziyang

· #42 · Jul 18, 2021

Hunter Mike said:
View attachment 532432

Just remove the undercover to access the drain, then refill to the fill hole level. Replace the washer on the drain plug. Numbers by the fastener are torque specs. Last # is ft-lbs.
View attachment 532431

Very helpful information, thank you!

This is way easier than any AT fluid change and almost as straightforward as changing MT fluid.

I guess the fluid isn’t doing much job inside this case, other than engaging/decoupling the clutch. Motors don’t need transmission fluid as is the case for all EV.

Hunter Mike

· #43 · Jul 18, 2021

Ziyang said:
Very helpful information, thank you!

This is way easier than any AT fluid change and almost as straightforward as changing MT fluid.

I guess the fluid isn’t doing much job inside this case, other than engaging/decoupling the clutch. Motors don’t need transmission fluid as is the case for all EV.

You’re welcome.

There’s still gearsets that need lubrication and cooling. Probably not nearly as much heat generation as a torque converter automatic, hence the low fluid capacity. I don’t see cooling lines in and out either.

HighlandChris

· #44 · Jul 26, 2021

bigdog777 said:
I

I wasn’t informed ahead of time of a premium vrs non premium type of service. It only came up in conversation with the parts guys as I questioned whether Honda DW-1 was a FULL synthetic product as well that they were mixing it with on the partial change. I never got the price diff on service just that the MAG1 fluid was like 18$ a quart compared to 12$ for the OEM??
Anyways there’s no argument on my part about keeping fluid clean! But it did surprise me using in aftermarket fluid along with conditioner plus I was charged for 4 quarts of the MAG1 and the bottle of conditioner 12 oz I’m guessing on the drain and refill. Which according to the manual is 2.3 quarts 😳 question is where’d they put it? = not happy 😞. BTW this fluid is available on Amazon for 6$ a quart shipped 😩. Take a look at the receipt where they show it at 27$ but sell it to me for 18$. I think “stealer” rather then “dealer” certainly applies here and for this customer anyway will NEVER happen again.

Vegashybrid said:
Interesting because I have yet to hear about the hybrids having any transmission problems whatsoever (please don't turn this into another ridiculous "well it doesn't have a tranny debate") that would cause them to add the extra protection. There's nothing wrong with this type of additive. I'm more familiar with different companies versions but basically all the same. Usually they are used in race or higher hp/heat applications. They definitely help reduce friction and therefore temps ect and work.
The question at hand here is how much extra did the dealership charge for a $15-20 can of additive compared to the non premium service.

I have a 2020 Hybrid Touring currently at the dealer for a defective "Transmission Cooler"...not sure what that is but I found coolant all over the engine compartment, radiator and dripping under car. We only have 1,400 miles on it after only owning it for 6 weeks. Did I get a lemon or part of bigger issue with design?

markayash

· #45 · Jul 27, 2021

HighlandChris said:
I have a 2020 Hybrid Touring currently at the dealer for a defective "Transmission Cooler"...not sure what that is but I found coolant all over the engine compartment, radiator and dripping under car. We only have 1,400 miles on it after only owning it for 6 weeks. Did I get a lemon or part of bigger issue with design?

Sounds like it's just leaking on the coolant side, probably just a bad part but can't hurt to ask and document it.
May ask and get them to service the transmission just for grins

Ziyang

· #46 · Jul 27, 2021

HighlandChris said:
I have a 2020 Hybrid Touring currently at the dealer for a defective "Transmission Cooler"...not sure what that is but I found coolant all over the engine compartment, radiator and dripping under car. We only have 1,400 miles on it after only owning it for 6 weeks. Did I get a lemon or part of bigger issue with design?

There is no coolant for transmission. Two reservoirs, one for engine, the other for inverter. Which reservoir did you see fluid loss?

markayash

· #47 · Jul 27, 2021

Ziyang said:
There is no coolant for transmission. Two reservoirs, one for engine, the other for inverter. Which reservoir did you see fluid loss?

Does it use engine cooling system to cool the CVT like Nissan did?

Ziyang

· #48 · Jul 27, 2021

markayash said:
Does it use engine cooling system to cool the CVT like Nissan did?

I don’t know exactly. Based on what I know, there isn’t many components inside the ‘e-CVT’ transmission cases, so the fluid is mainly for splash lubrication plus one job — controlling the direct gear.

The rotors are spinning fast, but they are permanent magnet so no current flows through. I doubt if they’ll generate a lot heat.

These jobs probably don’t need extra cooling in my opinion?

Reactions: 1

Hunter Mike

· #49 · Jul 27, 2021

markayash said:
Does it use engine cooling system to cool the CVT like Nissan did?

No eCTV cooling except the several qts of DW-1 in it. Thank goodness it’s not built like a Nissan(Jatco) CVT or I wouldn’t have bought one! As Ziyang mentioned, two individual separate systems. One for the ICE, one for inverter. @HighlandChris Most likely it’s the inverter cooler because its above the e-CVT.

Reactions: 1

Ziyang

· #50 · Sep 9, 2021

Hunter Mike said:
View attachment 532432

Just remove the undercover to access the drain, then refill to the fill hole level. Replace the washer on the drain plug. Numbers by the fastener are torque specs. Last # is ft-lbs.
View attachment 532431

Hi @Hunter Mike I am collecting tools and parts for the transmission fluid change these days. The major question I have now is the two plugs' washer size. Can you possibly let me know what size washers to buy for the transmission fill/drain plug?

From what I can find online, the drain plug seems to have 20mm washer; the fill plug is 10mm. It would be great if you can verify these!

Some might suggest that the dealer will sell me with correct parts. No they don't. Last time I went to a dealership parts store and asked for the washer for my 2017 Civic 1.5T 6MT transmission drain plug, but they sold me a wrong sized one which seriously interrupted my transmission fluid change job...

Hunter Mike

· #51 · Sep 9, 2021

Ziyang said:
Hi @Hunter Mike I am collecting tools and parts for the transmission fluid change these days. The major question I have now is the two plugs' washer size. Can you possibly let me know what size washers to buy for the transmission fill/drain plug?

From what I can find online, the drain plug seems to have 20mm washer; the fill plug is 10mm. It would be great if you can verify these!

Some might suggest that the dealer will sell me with correct parts. No they don't. Last time I went to a dealership parts store and asked for the washer for my 2017 Civic 1.5T 6MT transmission drain plug, but they sold me a wrong sized one which seriously interrupted my transmission fluid change job...

Honda used to use a 18mm on the ATF drain but I’m not sure if it’s the same. P/N ‎90471-PX4-000 was what I used on my ‘14.

A quick look shows the same part listed for the hybrid drain plug. AT Flywheel Case - 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid 4 Door EXL KA CVT

Ziyang

· #52 · Sep 10, 2021

Hunter Mike said:
Honda used to use a 18mm on the ATF drain but I’m not sure if it’s the same. P/N ‎90471-PX4-000 was what I used on my ‘14.

A quick look shows the same part listed for the hybrid drain plug. AT Flywheel Case - 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid 4 Door EXL KA CVT

Thanks! I think I also checked a similar photo but probably that was from an incorrect model.

So in addition to the 18mm drain plug, the check hole would need 10mm washer, is that correct?

markayash

· #53 · Sep 10, 2021

Ziyang said:
Thanks! I think I also checked a similar photo but probably that was from an incorrect model.

So in addition to the 18mm drain plug, the check hole would need 10mm washer, is that correct?

I may be violating the recommended procedure but I have never changed a crush washer on a engine or transmission and never had a leak. The threads do their job and IMHO the old washer will also.

Hunter Mike

· #54 · Sep 10, 2021

Ziyang said:
Thanks! I think I also checked a similar photo but probably that was from an incorrect model.

So in addition to the 18mm drain plug, the check hole would need 10mm washer, is that correct?

Looks like it for the check hole.

markayash said:
I may be violating the recommended procedure but I have never changed a crush washer on a engine or transmission and never had a leak. The threads do their job and IMHO the old washer will also.

Let me guess, you don’t use a torque wrench either?

The Al crush washer seals as it deforms. If you don’t replace it you risk leaks. I’ve done it before but for less than $1 just replace it. I bought a 50-pack from Dorman a decade ago since I’ve had Honda cars, a Honda motorcycle, and my Kawasaki takes the same size. When I owned a Mazda6 it used the same size too.

The biggest risk is stripping the oil pan. It’s aluminum with a steel bolt. When the crush washer doesn’t deform, more torque is applied to to threads and that’s getting into major repair.

Ive learned it’s never wrong to do it the right way.

Reactions: 1

zroger73

· #55 · Sep 10, 2021

I recommend and always use a new sealing washer where specified, but it's technically just that - a sealing washer and not a crush washer.

Reactions: 1

markayash

· #56 · Sep 10, 2021

zroger73 said:
I recommend and always use a new sealing washer where specified, but it's technically just that - a sealing washer and not a crush washer.

I am in my upper 50’s and have always changed my own oil and services lots of Honda transmissions over the years. Never have a leak and no I don’t use a torque wrench. Done enough to know what’s right and what’s not. And kept my 97 civic for 18 years and never an oil or trans plug leak.

Not saying you should I am saying you don’t have to, it’s a flat metal washer not a gasket imho.

Hunter Mike

· #57 · Sep 10, 2021

zroger73 said:
I recommend and always use a new sealing washer where specified, but it's technically just that - a sealing washer and not a crush washer.

That it is. It just does the job of sealing by crushing.

Deforming is probably a better word but you would get funny looks from your buddies.

Hunter Mike

· #58 · Nov 21, 2021

I just changed mine today in my ‘21 HAH.

Flat-head screwdriver and phillips to remove the belly pan. 17mm socket to remove the check bolt, 3/8” drive to remove the drain bolt. The fill is up top behind the radiator and it’s just a rubber plug with an ‘L’-shaped wire to pull it out.

18mm sealing washer on the drain, but the check bolt is a bit larger. I didn’t measure and re-used the existing one. 19mm or 20mm because it wasn’t much bigger than the 18mm I have on hand. 36lb-ft on the drain plug, 32lb-ft for the fill.

Took about 2qts, 8oz. to fill so you’ll need 3qts on hand. I used a funnel with a short rubber hose extension. Don’t install the check bolt until you fill and it’s dripping out.

It took about a half hour but future changes will take about half that.

Reactions: 3

Ziyang

· #59 · Nov 21, 2021

Hunter Mike said:
I just changed mine today in my ‘21 HAH.

Flat-head screwdriver and phillips to remove the belly pan. 17mm socket to remove the check bolt, 3/8” drive to remove the drain bolt. The fill is up top behind the radiator and it’s just a rubber plug with an ‘L’-shaped wire to pull it out.

18mm sealing washer on the drain, but the check bolt is a bit larger. I didn’t measure and re-used the existing one. 19mm or 20mm because it wasn’t much bigger than the 18mm I have on hand. 36lb-ft on the drain plug, 32lb-ft for the fill.

Took about 2qts, 8oz. to fill so you’ll need 3qts on hand. I used a funnel with a short rubber hose extension. Don’t install the check bolt until you fill and it’s dripping out.

It took about a half hour but future changes will take about half that.

Appreciate your details and it really should go top of this hybrid Accord sub-forum for everybody!

I’m surprised that you mentioned another ‘fill port’ since I was expecting to pump fluid back through that check hole…

How many miles was there for this fluid change? Does the old fluid look alright? Do you plan to send it for analysis? Please keep us updated, Thanks!

Hunter Mike

· #60 · Nov 21, 2021

2

Ziyang said:
Appreciate your details and it really should go top of this hybrid Accord sub-forum for everybody!

I’m surprised that you mentioned another ‘fill port’ since I was expecting to pump fluid back through that check hole…

How many miles was there for this fluid change? Does the old fluid look alright? Do you plan to send it for analysis? Please keep us updated, Thanks!

I found the fill hole looking underneath and I saw this short angled hook pointing out. It came out easy and it’s just like a stopper in a bottle.

Watch Textile Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle

Automotive lighting Hood Flash photography Steering wheel Automotive design

15k miles. It slightly darkened, most likely clutch material and break-in metals. I like changing transmission fluid early as the majority of break-in metals occur in the first 10k. There doesn't appear to be any filter, like a manual transmission. I’ll stick with the severe service recommendation of 47.5k from here on out.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

41 - 60 of 70 Posts