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V6 6MT CBP
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Swapping a stock motor for a stock motor for <50 hp would be stupid. If you are pulling the motor, you might as well get it built to do what you want, and really make it worth the time, and have a brand new motor - if getting more power is what you are trying to achieve.
 

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Where can I trust to do a diagnostic on my car and tell me what I need to do?
Trust should not be dependent on a physical location. Furthermore, this location may not have the ability to communicate. Although one time in a national park I was hunting squirrel, and the land spoke to me....
 
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Bob's your UNCLE ...
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Did this discussion just switch to a blown J32 with the LSD manual transmission swap ?

:lurk:
 

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this swap is interesting to me. But I am wondering how many other components i would need to upgrade (brakes, etc.) if I made this swap in my 06 v6 MT ex-l. Any thoughts on effort and cost?
 

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There’s also the engine swap option. One of the nice things about J series is the low cost of these motors. For less than you would pay for a full exhaust system, you can buy a J32A3. This will give you a solid increase of 18HP and 21ft-lb of torque. And you don’t need to worry about the transmission. Pick and pull junkyards are littered with these motors. If you can find one in good condition, this is probably the most cost effective performance upgrade possible for a 7G V6. Engine importers also sell them pretty cheap, and with low miles.

Of course, a J35A8 will bring things close to 300HP. But the motor is more expensive. And you either have to change the bellhousing section of your transmission or just get the J35A8 transmission. But the cost of even this swap can still make it competitive considering what you could potentially spend trying to get more performance from your J30A4.

i met someone with the J32 motor swap in a coupe and he was saying its a difference from our motor but for absolute maximum gains, J35A8 is the best HP gains but most costly too...hondata, tuning, install, etc.


i test drove another acura tl type s and even in auto form, the power difference is definitely noticeable


if you can afford it, the Accord is about 100 pds. lighter than the Acura TL Type S so it would be that much faster if you can swing for the engine swap, transmission, hondata, tuning, and such


the guy i met had his dad do his J32 and he did find the motor for fairly cheap nowadays and is the middle option motor
 

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i was looking around at some mods and i am not sure what to get i already have a cold air intake. i would like to step it up some more and ive looked at some exhausts and turbos and other things but i just would like to know what other options i may be missing or over looked i would just like to get some other opinions on this :smile.
Not sure why people would rather spend their time telling you to go elsewhere than offer up their advice from already having done so...

Mine has
-Ebay Cold air intake (40 bucks)
bucks)
-Amazon DNA front pipe (j-pipe and precast deletes) -160$
-j37 intake manifold and TB (I found for 125$ usually had for about 250-300)

Intake wakes up the vtec noise noticeably! Recommend that first forsure. Butt dyno feels like a solid 15-20whp gain when shes running strong.
 

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Not sure why people would rather spend their time telling you to go elsewhere than offer up their advice from already having done so...

Mine has
-Ebay Cold air intake (40 bucks)
bucks)
-Amazon DNA front pipe (j-pipe and precast deletes) -160$
-j37 intake manifold and TB (I found for 125$ usually had for about 250-300)

Intake wakes up the vtec noise noticeably! Recommend that first forsure. Butt dyno feels like a solid 15-20whp gain when shes running strong.
Because sometimes, the "advice" offered is useless.....costs, gains, dyno sheets are all made up, or the data changes.

Here you say the cost was $160, but in an earlier thread it was $179. That's a difference of 11%

04 7th Gen coupe 6-6

If you want to mod it cheap with decent gains here are my mods. The whole purpose behind these mods was to help me learn mechanics and my way around this car in specific. With replacement Engine's running about 400 bucks and equipment to swap if ever necessary, kind of a hard car to ever get rid of!

Mods
-DNA motoring "front pipe/jpipe" (comes WITH pre-cat deletes!)-179 amazon. This one is worth EVERY penny, while you're at it just as well delete that third cat (this pipe bolts right onto the 3rd cat so I cut mine off and welded in a delete instead. You WILL need o2 sensor defoulers otherwise you will get engine lights and vtec will not work :( Careful which ones you get as some may not fit on the front delete as the motor mount is about 3inches away from the o2 sensor hole opening (I used a 90 degree elbow)
You were asked to post gains (post #11) from @jimijam but ignored that. Why?

So my advice to the OP is to get out of this thread, and go elsewhere (the performance section) and read.
 
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Roll Tide!
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1) Not sure why.....
2) Butt dyno feels like a solid 15-20whp gain when shes running strong.
1) You've had FOUR months since the last post to figure it out. I'm disappointed in you.

2) Measured results do NOT lie. Your feelings lie. Heck, just the other day, after eating some Chipolte for lunch, I felt like I was going to die. Seriously, I felt like I was dying. Then I realize that I have never died before, that I recall anyway, so I really have no idea that that feels like. I determined my feelings were wrong. I am JimiJam and I approve this message.
 

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ziptie princess
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1,422 Posts
Not sure why people would rather spend their time telling you to go elsewhere than offer up their advice from already having done so...

Mine has
-Ebay Cold air intake (40 bucks)
bucks)
-Amazon DNA front pipe (j-pipe and precast deletes) -160$
-j37 intake manifold and TB (I found for 125$ usually had for about 250-300)

Intake wakes up the vtec noise noticeably! Recommend that first forsure. Butt dyno feels like a solid 15-20whp gain when shes running strong.
butt dyno results are always off when you drive a slow car

i'd say to go dyno it for real but judging by your mod list you'll never do it
 

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butt dyno results are always off when you drive a slow car

i'd say to go dyno it for real but judging by your mod list you'll never do it
Unfortunately with these ECU's I wouldn't get consistently credible information from one dyno result. That, and I'd spend just as much on a dyno as I had to on the pre-cat deletes and an improved "J-pipe". Cut out the 3rd cat while I was at it. For the money spent, much better result vs a single dyno to post for a bunch of passive elitist online car folk. This is an old car, people have other things to do than waste more money than these cars really need to pull a high 13. Let the world keep sleeping on these cars.
 

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ziptie princess
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1,422 Posts
Unfortunately with these ECU's I wouldn't get consistently credible information from one dyno result. That, and I'd spend just as much on a dyno as I had to on the pre-cat deletes and an improved "J-pipe". Cut out the 3rd cat while I was at it. For the money spent, much better result vs a single dyno to post for a bunch of passive elitist online car folk. This is an old car, people have other things to do than waste more money than these cars really need to pull a high 13. Let the world keep sleeping on these cars.
143DE0B5-4BA0-4222-99B9-86D5CCE0D1F6.jpeg

lmaooooooo sorry about your feelings
 

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Gosh you two are darn sure of yourselves. For myself, high 13s is plenty for a daily driver. If I have the need for speed like you two seem to have my bike, bone stock, runs 10s. Seems like a waste of time to put even close to the effort you two expect out of everyone and their dog, into a 3 thousand dollar daily beater. But you guys do you!
 
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