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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok.. first is first. This topic is shreaded into small bits and worthless pieces all over the internet.

Hi new here. First post. Ive been lurking the forum for quite some time. See tons of un answered or incorrectly answered questions. Im a Trained Honda/Acura Tech of 15 years. I intend to answer questions with quick accuracy. No matter the issue. I have the answers. But im here because i have questions of my own:

recently i bought an 08 Accord Coupe black on black V6 6spd. 110k miles.

My questions may seem odd considering my background.. but we dont spend time altering Hondas. Thats why im here.

The Famous 3.7 intake/ 80mm TB swap. Here we go.

My questions here.. that i could not find searching. And its a shared question with a few friends looking to do the same thing.

1. Any Dyno results with before and after intake/tb only swap. (Can have other mods. Just not done at the same time that would render the results usless) a claim is one thing. Dyno results is #1.

2. Exact same question, same rules apply. 1/4 mile before/afters?

3. Any mpg changes?

4. My reason for posting. In the one youtube video i saw of this setup on an 8th gen 6/6 accord the idle speed was very irregular after the swap. Further reading i find that you can swap the tps to lessen the idle issues.. but no updates ever. Is it just irregular and thats the nature of the beast? Did anyone do an ecu reset or a ckp/idle relearn via HDS?

Please no bs. Keep it professional. Their are alot of people wanting to do this mod and the info is scattered everywhere and hard to find.

Also looks like heeltoe has the best pricing. I cant even get it cheaper at "my" cost.

Thanks. LiL D.
 

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Hi, I haven't done this personally yet but have you read this thread over at Acurazine in your searching? It is a wealth of knowledge (including dyno sheets) and a lot of effort put in by our Acura brethren. It's a long read but worth it if you haven't seen it yet. Different TBs are discussed and the idle issue is also addressed. Again, results based off the 3G TL TypsS 3.5 [and 3.2 base] J series which are close but different from ours.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870327&referrerid=345974
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ive been over there trust me. I have seen that thread before but the info isnt usefull as they are on a different engine with other mods. + the thread has no updates on the idle. It is 6 years old. And one person said there is a bucking between 2500-3k.. that sucks
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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I did this to my car. If anything the idle is better than STOCK. You need to drive the car 50 miles or so for the idle to figure itself out. It will do some weird stuff and may even throw a CEL but it'll all be fine I assure you (provided you install it all properly).

IMHO if u wanna know what this mod will do for ur 1/4 mile you need to worry about all ur mods, not just one. One mod alone on an N/A car won't do much. However I will say this was probably my most satisfying mod.

LET ME BE EXTREMELY CLEAR. THERE ARE ZERO IDLE ISSUES. Literally the car will drive 100% perfectly. There should be no concerns doing this mod, no ill effects.

I bought my stuff from Heeltoe and I am in Canada.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
100% the best info on the internet period! Thank you! You just helped SO many people on the fence and searching the internet for answers.

I have a few more ?'s. Did you use your original top plate w/butterfly v.?

Did you use your original tps sensor?

Did you use you original maf sensor?

What did you do about the iat sensor?

Also are you running a 3.5 or 4" CAI and have you had and maf codes? Im hearing people getting maf codes due to maf cal on the smaller stock pipe. (Nothing to do with the 3.7 intake/tb swap. This is a cai question only)
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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I am running the tl sh awd throttle body so you just buy that and its all taken care of. This can all be done when looking at heeltoe website. You don't need to relocate or worry about modifying anything to make this stuff work if you buy the manifold and the throttle body.

MAF is stock and sits in my Injen CAI

IAT not sure where that is but no relocating needed.

TPS comes with the new throttle body along with a new MAP sensor


to make the new tb size work with your intake look on heeltoe they have options listed. I bought a coupler from them so it fits from my injen intake to the bigger TB
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didnt know they sold different TB's is the TL sh tb same size as the ZDX tb? Whats the difference? Also i just installed an AF Dynamic SRI. After reading reviews i bought it. After installing it... blown away by quality vs price. Very nice! And best part. It comes with the bigger TB adapter and the small TV adapter The pipe is 3.65 inside dia. I plan on getting the 3.7 setup and Hondata. Also going to ditch my 3rd cat and first muffler. Car runs crazy strong stock with 113k on original plugs and black air filter.. and very loose valves. Cant wait to drive it.. maybe tomorrow. I spent the day installing all 4 cross drilled slotted rotors. New pads. One new rear caliper (because accord...) i also today replaced the T-belt wp/ plugs and adjusted the valves. AND removed the governer out of the slave cyl.
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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Bah the valve in the clutch I have found to not be an issue. I used to think it was a big pain in the ass but now I guess I have gotten used to it and now that shifts are all predictable. The main thing that sucks about this car is the rev hang. I hate it. I'd literally sell the car if I had to remove the Ktuner. Set throttle compensation to 0 and fuel cut in each column to 0 then the car will drive a lot more like a beast and less like a computer. Still not as responsive as I'd want but that's the best you'll get with the car. Some people think 0 and 0 are too jumpy but it's all about what you are looking for, no right answer on that one. So before you get the car dyno tuned make sure you change those parameters. Literally it'll feel like you changed the flywheel to aluminum cause the revs start instantly going up with no mushy progression into accelerating. That feeling did me good for almost 2 years lol. Now my car is at my mechanics house getting a new clutch and flywheel cause I want it even more responsive.

As for the TB yes the ZDX and TL-SH are virtually identical and whatever one is cheapest is the one Heeltoe will supply.

I'd go with Ktuner instead of Hondata. I'm using k tuner and its biblical.
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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no u dont need Ktuner it should have no effect on the idle as I did the manifold and tb before Ktuner and it was fine. But honestly Ktuner made a bigger difference than any of my mods PERIOD. And If I had to pick one thing to leave on my car if I had to go back to stock I'd still choose Ktuner.

You don't even need a dyno tune. You can run the basetune on 91 octane and just change the parameters to get the car to drive better. Dyno tune is the LAST thing you should do FYI.

You just don't have a clue what ur missing lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
08 v6/6 so you have k tuner, a cold air intake and the 3.7 setup. Anything else? Ever ran a 1/4? Im curious. If motor trend got a 13.9 stock... wondering how hard 12's would be.. My car ran ridiculously strong when i got it. And now.. not sure if it was the cai.. or adjusting the very loose valves.. but the car is worthless now. (In a no traction good way) i need wider sticker tires now.
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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well then u did something wrong, or something is wrong with ur car. Octane won't change that.

ur idle will be weird for about 2-4 drive cycles of 10-15 miles or so. that's about it. Maybe a CEL in the beginning. but only in the beginning, it gets better from there on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just ran 2 full tanks of 93 octane. Then switched to 87. The first time i went wot after going from 93 to 87 i got mad spark knock (there is nothing wrong with my car) i expected the first wot knock as fuel trim afr was adjusted for 93. It was not prepared for the 87. After the first wot run it corrected and adjusted (very noticable) no more knock after that. Until i put this intake on. I did not expect more knock. Turns out the factory pcm can adjust afr alot more than i thought. Now every wot it does not spark knock. It only took it one wot to adjust to the increased amount of air. Ive got a theory about fuel for these 6/6 coupes.. but thats another thread.. another day. I can bet you one thing... when i shock it with a full refill of 93 its going to run doggy as fak until wot forces it to readjust afr. After that... i suspect it will be hella faster... before i learned that 93 was over kill but 87 was too low.. 89-91would be perfect for stock 6/6. The fact that this setup caused more spark knock after it was already "tuned" to the 87 tells me this setup may see more gains with 93 octane.. i will be doing runs while monitoring retard/afr/spk knk with the HDS soon

So about the swap. I didnt really even get any strange idleing that someone not trained would notice it. After 20 miles its 100% perfect now. No issues.. power gain is immediate and very noticable... but the biggest change... you can now TELL when vtec switches over. Very similar to a k20 si with real vtec.. the SRI is maybe 30% louder. Throttle response is more sudden. Wot has more umph for sure. But more noticable is 1/2 throttle shifting at 3500-4k... thats almost like the old setup 7k wot lol..

Im thinking at this point the exhaust may be a bottle neck.. another day another thread
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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lol alright man. When I did it to my car.... that did not happen so you tell me why that is.

And no one to my knowledge has descried what you are experiencing. And u got the same year car as me so it should be exactly the same outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe im more "in tune" with noises and you or anyone else just didnt notice it? Maybe my heads were decked at some point in its life.. how the hell should i know lol. I did all the maintenance myself so i know its done right. It hasnt spark knocked 1 time since the initial wot run after the install.(because it adjusted(retarded timing/added fuel) for more air. I totally expected it to and it did.(as it should have) If yours DID NOT then YOU might have an issue? And my car of the bunch is the only one running correctly. + i have bone stock exhaust... not sure about you or others... all i know is its running great now. Run a full tank of 93 till empty. Then fill it with 87 and go wot after few miles. If you dont get a brief spark knock while it adjusts then you have something wrong. Dirty maf or a vac leak or weak 02 sensors or partly clogged cat or valves that are way out of adjustment or aftermarket plugs.. any of these will cause the pcm to retain a safe afr that tends to be very "retard" with more fuel added at all times... this is why poorly mauntained vehicles get shit mpg. So your already at the least aggressive tune so when you add the 3.7 setup.... its already in the "safe" zone so no correction is needed.. did you know improperly adjusted valves can cause spark knock. Misfires. Noise. Low power and mpg. Burned exhaust valves. Some so slightly burned that you will get a slightly rough idle but not burned enough to cause an actual misfire... so many honda drivers skip out on valve adjustments...
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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first thing I did when I got my car at 100k miles was a valve adjustment, spark plugs, all fluid changed, brakes, rotors, CAI, j pipe, tires.

I can guarantee no one spends more money on their petty accord than I do lol. I got this car so I could beat on it and fix/maintain/replace anything I needed to do cause it was well withing my budget.

either way this isn't a pissing contest. Just has me pretty curious as to how the heck you had those symptoms and no one else did.

And if my car wasnt running correctly it would not be dynoing 266whp and 244wtq (when it was 25 and super humid) on a motor that old, driven that hard. I am sure though if it was much lower KM it would be running even stronger. So one day I may get the motor pulled and drop in the 3.7 built to the hill. But I dunno I'm getting a bit annoyed lately with my trials and tribulations between the intake suckin up moisture and the fx250 POS clutch chattering to all hell.

I'm just glad I got bigger problems in life than these little nuances. One of the joys of owning a house I guess lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lol everything you said was 100% me! I did the exact same stuff when i got mine. Minus the J pipe.. too much money right now (yes i know i spent $550 on the intake!)... ...looks the other way... lol. I couldnt tell you why mine spark knocked like it did.. was pretty loud. Maybe my ecm is more lazy than most.. or the 10 feet between the gas station and 7k wot 1st to 4th didnt leave enough time for fuel adjustment.. dono. Kind of funny tho.. like i figured i filled the car with 93 a day or so ago.. and it was a complete dog for about 60 miles. Now its a damn rocket ship. My theroy of adjusting from 87 to 93.. dono i might be cra cra. All i know is this car fugin rips... annnnnd i might need a new clutch... (113k miles)
 

· When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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well more power to you bud.

FYI I just ordered the oem clutch assembly and throw out bearing to replace the fx250 clutch mated with the aluminum flywheel. Another 650 plus whatever my mechanic wants to charge me to go round 2 on this MOFO.

either way. I drop the car off sat and should have it within the week. I'll let you know how she goes. Use me as the guinepig. At least I can feel good about something lol.

I'm gonna video the symptoms of this fx250 clutch to get the most views/interest on youtube. Then my plan is to take asludge hammer to it cause I thoroughly pissed the F off with how BS clutchmasters website is on the so called driveability. Absolute dog ISH.

And you all think I am joking. Watch me take a sludge hammer to a fx250 clutch. This is gonna be a video worth watching ppl. Time to make a statement!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Lol.. easy big fella. Atleast i know now to not get an aftermarket clutch when i do mine.. i still cant decide if mine is worn and slipping or slipping because your not spozd to power shift into 3rd n 4th 7k wot. Vtec yo lol...
 
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