Sorry folks, I didnt intend this to be a DIY so I didnt take pics or catalog my progress. I will say that the FSM is 95% an idiots guide so if you follow it step by step, you will be just about there. The procedure is not complex but is physically hard if that makes sense. Here are some random photos:
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Some thoughts having done this on my own without a lift:
I.) The auto trans is rather HEAVY. This is an MFer. It is much heavier than it looks and I would believe you if you told me it was 200 lbs. YOU WILL NOT BE LIFTING THIS THING IN/OUT/OVER/UNDER ANYTHING without mechanical assistance. At a minimum you should get the Harbor Freight tranny jack. The HF tranny jack supplemented with a engine hoist from up top would be the ideal and most safe way to go. Let me stress again, if this thing falls on you, it will kill you or hurt you badly, do not mess with it.
I. a.) You will need chains to lift/support the engine and trans
II.) if you dont have an engine hoist, you will need a transverse mounted engine support - you can get these for $60-80 but see my above point about chains. There are two lifting points on the auto tranny and one lifting point on the passenger side of the engine plus a bolt on each cylinder head that can accommodate a lifting hook
III.) the rear mounting bolt is in fact a bitch and a half. You will need the smallest and thinest 1/4 in ratchet and 14 mm socket with the addition of a long 14mm combination wrench. Position the wrench on the bolt from up top and use your weight to break it loose from beneath the car then use your ratchet in whatever way possible to free the bolt
IV.) When installing the subframe, make sure the tranny mount studs are positioned correctly in their holes as your are tightening up the subframe bolts (and raising the subframe) otherwise you will have a tough time trying to wedge the mount studs where they need to go.
V.) During install, lining the engine up in its front and rear mounts may be a challenge, so you may need to loosen up the side mount on the passenger side in order to be able to manipulate the engine into its mounts in the correct way
Cant remember anything else at the moment, but will be glad to answer any questions anyone may have. If you would like a copy of the Honda FSM section for tranny removal and installation please PM me your email and I wll send a .pdf. The FSM is about 95% right on, but leaves out a couple of small but important details.
It really is a pretty straightforward job, but you have to be smart and use mechanical advantage - otherwise you will be trying to muscle things out and expending 3x the effort.
One other nugget - and take it for what its worth - but a Honda tech told me that you can leave the subframe connected by one ball joint and then just swing the whole thing around and out of the way. If you have the room to do that, might be a novel way to save yourself some effort in re-assembly.
I took advantage of the opportunity and installed two new LBJs.
Some thoughts having done this on my own without a lift:
I.) The auto trans is rather HEAVY. This is an MFer. It is much heavier than it looks and I would believe you if you told me it was 200 lbs. YOU WILL NOT BE LIFTING THIS THING IN/OUT/OVER/UNDER ANYTHING without mechanical assistance. At a minimum you should get the Harbor Freight tranny jack. The HF tranny jack supplemented with a engine hoist from up top would be the ideal and most safe way to go. Let me stress again, if this thing falls on you, it will kill you or hurt you badly, do not mess with it.
I. a.) You will need chains to lift/support the engine and trans
II.) if you dont have an engine hoist, you will need a transverse mounted engine support - you can get these for $60-80 but see my above point about chains. There are two lifting points on the auto tranny and one lifting point on the passenger side of the engine plus a bolt on each cylinder head that can accommodate a lifting hook
III.) the rear mounting bolt is in fact a bitch and a half. You will need the smallest and thinest 1/4 in ratchet and 14 mm socket with the addition of a long 14mm combination wrench. Position the wrench on the bolt from up top and use your weight to break it loose from beneath the car then use your ratchet in whatever way possible to free the bolt
IV.) When installing the subframe, make sure the tranny mount studs are positioned correctly in their holes as your are tightening up the subframe bolts (and raising the subframe) otherwise you will have a tough time trying to wedge the mount studs where they need to go.
V.) During install, lining the engine up in its front and rear mounts may be a challenge, so you may need to loosen up the side mount on the passenger side in order to be able to manipulate the engine into its mounts in the correct way
Cant remember anything else at the moment, but will be glad to answer any questions anyone may have. If you would like a copy of the Honda FSM section for tranny removal and installation please PM me your email and I wll send a .pdf. The FSM is about 95% right on, but leaves out a couple of small but important details.
It really is a pretty straightforward job, but you have to be smart and use mechanical advantage - otherwise you will be trying to muscle things out and expending 3x the effort.
One other nugget - and take it for what its worth - but a Honda tech told me that you can leave the subframe connected by one ball joint and then just swing the whole thing around and out of the way. If you have the room to do that, might be a novel way to save yourself some effort in re-assembly.
I took advantage of the opportunity and installed two new LBJs.
