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This fix is in reach of all who want to do it, but it does require a surprising amount of muscling to move things around. For purposes of this DIY, I'll post the photo first, then explain what's going on under it.

Tools needed:
8mm socket with extension for Filter Box retaining bolts.
10mm wrench for battery clamp bolts
7/32" (oddly) socket for hose clamp
Long Phillips head screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
PB Blaster (or other) penetrating oil to loosen air box bolts the day before



The first photo is of the engine bay of the four-cylinder 2005 Accord, with the locations posted of the things that have to be removed.


The first step is to see if you can break loose the air box retaining bolts before getting invloved with further disassembly. I recommend soaking these four bolts in PB Blaster overnight before trying to loosen them. You may be able to force them, but it would be best not to crack the plastic housing while doing so. Use an 8mm socket on an extension. I show one bolt here - finding the other three is left as an exercise for the student.


Once you're sure you can break the air box bolts free, you'll have to clear some things out of the way. Remove the battery clamps and set it aside. Pull the electrical connection out of the rubber half-retaining clamp where it crosses the hose (you don't have to break any electrical connections here - it's just pulling it out of a clamp), then note the distance between the clamp ends on the hose clamp near the engine - you'll have to tighten it back to the same tighness. Then unscrew the hose clamp near the engine (7/8" socket) and pull it off of the aluminum housing. With these out of the way, you can muscle the air box out from under the fender well. In the photo you can see what appears to be a clean filter, but it isn't - the air flows up.


Here's the bottom of the old filter. You may not be able to see the seeds and other particulates in it, but they're there. - it was time to come out. Replace it with the new filter. As best as I can see, it can only go in one way.


Dealer's choice as whether to reseat the hose on the housing first or reseat the airbox bolts, but do remember to get the air box under the fender well first. Using a flat head screwdriver, gently pry the rubber hose over the aluminum housing. Did I say gently? All you're trying to do here is just make sure the rubber has gone on straight and not rolled under somewhere. If you start the back first, then the screwdriver in front allows you to see what you're doing and just hold back the rubber while you slide it on the housing. Remember not to tighten the hose clamp any more than the original tightness - you did note the tightness on the hose clamp before you removed it, right? Start the filter box retaining screws with the long Phillip screwdriver, carefully making sure they've gone in straight and are not cross-threaded. Tighten with the 8mm extension socket.

You're finished with the air filter, but you might as well check the electrolyte level in your battery while the battery clamp is off. I suspect mine (new to me) has never been checked previously, and it needed it. Use distilled water if you have it - it will keep down the white battery residue that might cause a non-start situation years from now. Replace the battery clamp and you're done. Drive away knowing your engine is breathing better than it has in some time.
 
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