[trevor24]

Hello, anybody know how high is the crossover of the 8th gen premium audio system without navy?. I installed a sub and while I save for a decent DSP I connected a LOC where the OEM sub used to be, its very convenint because now I can controll bass with from the OEM HU, but I was wondering how is the filter set by honda.

Also, do oyu have in mind any good DSP? Zapco Z8? BitTenD? Mosconi?

Thank you!!

 

[ousooner2]

Do you have an SPL meter or RTA? You could easily see where the crossover is set with either of these. Another option is to use pink noise or sine waves (1/3 octave at least) to find where you sub begins to play.

If I had to guess, it'd be around 100hz-120hz.



As far as DSP, that depends on a few factors:

1. Do you have an SPL meter, RTA and/or tuning experience?


If you don't have any of these, then you'd be best going with something that has an auto-tune. The MS-8 does a damn good job when used properly (you can't run the volume too loud or too quiet when calibrating, etc). There are a few other auto-tune DSP's, but I think the MS-8 is the best. You're still given 1/3 octave bands to do EQ AFTER the tune if you choose to, which is nice to tidy up a few spots that it may have missed.

Head over to DIYMA and read up. Check out the classifieds for DSP's as you can always get great prices on barely used equipment.

 

[trevor24]

No, I dont have tune capabilities, this is my first system. I was all in with the MS8 but then I start looking some post talking about jet sound or something like that, it seems like a bug that might blow your tweeters if happen during calibration...this was a deal breaker for me, (and the money haha) Did you heard something about it?

What othr equipment have auto tune and good flexibility to change the generated curve?

Alpine maybe? For now I am keeping the OEM HU

 

[ousooner2]

No, I dont have tune capabilities, this is my first system. I was all in with the MS8 but then I start looking some post talking about jet sound or something like that, it seems like a bug that might blow your tweeters if happen during calibration...this was a deal breaker for me, (and the money haha) Did you heard something about it?

What othr equipment have auto tune and good flexibility to change the generated curve?

Alpine maybe? For now I am keeping the OEM HU

That's VERY rare that it will happen. It will only affect your tweeters if you do NOT have something in the line of them to filter it (capacitor). PartsExpress sells capacitors for very cheap. Use the calculators out there to figure out which one you need in relation to your crossover point to the tweeters.

Alpine H800. But you have to purchase the controller with it if you do not have an Alpine head unit...so that's just added costs. MS8's tune is better in my opinion (and most others opinions)

 

[trevor24]

well, you are right ousooner2, I might look into some kinf of protection for my tweeters and then maybe look for an used MS-8. I already have all wired to go active so I think it might be an easy update, I am thinking in front 2-way set active through my 4 channel amp and use the OEM speakers as rear fill directly from the MS8 internal amp, and well the sub with the monoamp

A couple of questions, do you recommend me to take the high level signal from my rear speakers (that will be more convenient) or I will have an advantage if I wire the 4 speakers or go for the balanced signal directly from the OEM HU?

 

[ousooner2]

It's a balanced differential signal, not a balanced signal. Just so you know lol


I don't know much about the 8th Gen's, but does yours have an amp or is it like the 9th Gen's LX/Sport where there is no amp?


If you have an amp, taking the signal AFTER the factory amp will yield higher voltages, but you're working with signals that have already been tampered with (they've already been crossed over so you're going to have to take multiple wires into your DSP or amp to make it work effectively). It's also going to be less of a clean signal. If you have an amp, without a doubt you want to take it BEFORE the amp for the cleanest signal, which is also full-range. The pre-amp signal, if it's anything like Acura..which I assume it's pretty much identical, is very low voltage. You'll want a good line driver, especially if you're taking the signal into DSP like the MS-8.

 

[trevor24]

thanks for the correction, yes it have a amp but the output of that amp for fronts and rear is full range according to my research and test. In fact the have two small crossovers for the 2-way front set.

I am starting to really like the odea of the MS8, the only disadvantage that I see is that if I dont like the auto tune result I think I will be screwed $$

 

[ousooner2]

thanks for the correction, yes it have a amp but the output of that amp for fronts and rear is full range according to my research and test. In fact the have two small crossovers for the 2-way front set.

I am starting to really like the odea of the MS8, the only disadvantage that I see is that if I dont like the auto tune result I think I will be screwed $$

In Acura's, the POST-amp wires definitely don't sound as clean as the PRE-amp wires. It's easily audible.

The MS-8 is very good at what it does. You can mess up the auto-tune if you're not doing it correctly, but there is TONS of information at DIYMA on problems people are having, tips/tricks to using it, etc. It's very sensitive to input levels (it wants 2v input), it's very sensitive to what SPL you're tuning at for the auto-EQ (can't be too quiet or too loud),etc. It does a great job at putting the stage up top on the dash for most people. My stage was rock solid almost out on the hood...basically just past the windshield. I couldn't locate my sub at all and it sounded like a freaking live concert in that car. Obviously you 'could' do better with manual tuning, but unless you have the equipment to do it, the experience to know what freq. need to be cut, ability to time align well, etc....then the MS-8 will get you 95% of the way there. It's a simple install for the most part, here's what I did:

1. Cut and splice the pre-amp (FL and FR) wires and take them into a line driver (I used the Rockford BLD). If your pre-amp voltage is anything like the 3rd Gen TL, it's very low (around .4v). You'll want 2v for the ms-8. The BLD is cheap, well-built and can do balanced diff if you need it. Great unit!

-- If you'd like to use RCA's to go into the line driver..you can use one of these: (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17680_Kicker-ZISL-09ZISL.html). I still have mine if you'd like it

2. Purchase nice, shielded RCA's to run from the line driver to the rear of the car (or wherever your amp{s} will be)

3. Take the two RCA ends from that long RCA cable into the MS-8

You're done. The MS-8 can take that full range signal for 2 channels and assign it to all 8 channels. Clean and simple. Obviously you'll need to run other cables/wires for the amp and speakers ...and the MS-8 LCD, but that's it. If you don't like the MS-8, which I don't know why you wouldn't, they are super simple to resell.