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First of all, sorry for the long post, but this issue took a bit of explaining. Those that take thr time to read this and give me some ideas, thank you!!
So I bought this 93 Accord coupe 5-speed last week, and it ran perfect for the first 50 miles or so. The tachometer in the car only ever read at idle with the car running, and the needle would actually move down a little as the RPMs increased. Right after I bought it, I replaced the ignitor and checked that the ground on the thermostat housing was attached and there was no change in the tach behavior. I was driving on the freeway today when all of a sudden the tach jumped up and started working, and the dash lights brightened, then a few seconds later the tachometer and the speedometer both dropped to 0, then jumped back up to reading again then dropped back to 0 and the car shut off. Now there seems to be no power at all, no headlights or anything. Also, after the first time the tach started working and before it died it seemed like it was running on 3 cylinders. I was able to roll off the freeway and into a parking lot, but couldn't restart the car. I thought it was probably some kind of wire short in the engine harness, so I pulled the entire harness and didn't see anything melted or any damage. I pulled the loom off of all the distributor wiring thinking that was where the short would be, because of how the tach had behaved prior to the engine dying, and the fact that it seemed like it was misfiring (weak spark?) But all the wiring was good. Also had the alternator bench tested because someone suggested that, and it tested good. Ran out of light today. I have no idea where too look now. Had to leave the car in the parking 15 miles away from home. Was able to set my alarm with the harness out so the alarm at least is getting power.. also no fuses were blown. I'll be going in the morning toput the harness back on but I don't know what to look for next. Any help and direction would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Fuel starvation, bad gas, spark plugs, obstructed air intake, for a 25-yr old car the possibilities are endless. We have members with old Accords so I'll shut up and let them take over.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fuel starvation, bad gas, spark plugs, obstructed air intake, for a 25-yr old car the possibilities are endless. We have members with old Accords so I'll shut up and let them take over.
The previous owner replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, plug wires, ignitor, ignition coil, and injectors within the last few months, and the engine has good compression across the board. I do know the gas is 6+ months old, but it ran perfectly smooth on that gas and there is still at least a quarter tank of gas in it. Stock air box, so I don't know how anything could get into the intake to obstruct it. Thanks for the suggestions tho! When I get a ride back to the car and get it reassembled, I'll definitely check for spark and fuel though. I suspect it's something electrical.

Does anyone know how to test an ECU, short of having access to another Accord to try it in? I would assume that there is some procedure to test it with a multimeter, like how one can test resistance between pins on a coil to see if it's good?
 

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By intake obstruction I meant an old, clogged filter. My money is on moisture in the gas. It doesn't take much. I'd drain it and replace with Top Tier gas which later model owner's manuals recommend. Let us know.
 

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Pour a bottle or 2 of dry gas in the tank (if you aren't going to drain the gas tank), to rule out water condensation in the gas, then do as slim1469 suggested & fill up @ a busy station.
 

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I bet this is two different problems. The tach is probably the instrument cluster, mid 1990s accords are infamous for having the tach be off like that. Mine was; you can replace or solder the offending pins (what i did).

The electrical death and not starting is probably the Main Fuel Relay. A 2inch by 3inch box under the dash near the steering column. They can fail intermittently so just replace it. I tested mine and it was fine until it would stop again. I kept looking at other components and even replaced the fuel pump, but nope, it was the Main Relay.

$50 for that relay. I suggest trying it. I wish i had done it instead of testing it. That “good” test cost me probably 100 more hours of headache and troubleshooting time. It may be a “shotgun” approach, but hey spread enough lead around and you’re bound to hit something.
 

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It is a bad Main Relay under the dash.
Turn Key on and you should get a click when it kicks in.
If no click it is bad.
It can be repaired because if fails due to cold solder joints.
 
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