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98 Accord with 50k and no compression..can I get it to run?

295 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Cruizahkimo, 
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Hello to the forum!
I am a lifelong Honda Toyota Datsun owner who has been messing with cars since I was
20.
I have a legit 50k accord that was vandalized a bit 15 yrs ago so I ended up putting in storage foe 15 yrs in a warehouse.
When I got it out of storage last yr I knew it would need a fuel pump.
Did that [nice you dont have to drop tank] and got it running.
It ran good at first but would be hard to start after a while and got to where it would turn over
to fast.
last fall it would not start any more.
hearing or the problems with cheap compression guages I bought a vintage snap on compression
gauge.
and tested the cylinders
0 compression in all.
some will say a timing belt cant go bad from sitting
other say no.
anyway I am trying to line up the marks and hope the forum can help with if it looks like it slipped timing ;as the belt is not broken
you can see where I smeared a little white paint to the left of the fan belt..those are the three marks
so im a little to the 1pm area on the Up arrow
if the belt is right I should see the three marks lined up with pulley pointer
and the up Arrow lined up with cam tower mark?
thanks in advance for any advice
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Das Chicken
I won't be much help with timing, but check and make sure you don't have any valves that are stuck open.
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mtts60
Like daschicken, I can't help with the timing. But, get yourself a new belt even if the current one isn't broken. It is x years old and wouldn't it suck if you got it working only to have the belt break because it's too old?
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V
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Was thinking at 50k we haven't hit the recommended belt change mileage yet LOL.

So yesterday in shop I rotated the engine with wrench on pulley to what I think is top dead center
i dont have compression so i cant use mt spark plug whistle which is a handy way to tell for sure
put stick in cylinder hole and i do have one of those camera on a gooseneck to see in cylinder
piston is at top.timing marks are dead perfect...th picture on pully is shot from side so it looks askew,but looking from above it is perfect

belt looks like new still shinny.So next I do experiment I take small vice grip and clip on rocker
adjuster nut and spin over with plugs out the cylinder and my snapon compression guage[dtill mp ompression]
the exhaust valve rocker travel up and down nicely about i inch up and down can be seen while cranking on starter there are 2 per cylinder.
then I try the intake valves and here is what I observe going from the [distributor end of head] 4 No Yes3No Yes 2 No Yes 1No Yes so each of the right valves in each cylinder on the intake side do not go up and down.
I dont know if that is normal on a LX vtec but is different then the exhaust valves.
Next I take a socket extension and a hammer and start tapping on the "No" valves one by one.
after some time I get the #1 and #4 cylinder "no" valve movement ones to grudgingly move maybe a quarter inch up and down on crank.
the 2 and 3 cylinders dtill dont move
I retest #1 cylinder which is some slight movement with compression guage and still 0 compression


So Now I am wondering If there is a way to try to free up these valves without removing the head?
anyone know a trick?
seen this issue before?
thanks again in advance for any advice !
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mywrx320
I suspect your intake valves are stuck/sticky due to fuel deposits and length of time sitting in storage. If it were mine I would try a shot of quality penetrant like Kroil on the valve stem in hopes that it would seep down between the stem and guide. You MAY have to carefully work the valve stem seal up off of its’ seat to do this. Worth a try and May work with some patience!! Also, underneath the rocker cover is no place for vise grips and hammers.

Due to length of storage, your rings may have became unseated. One squirt of motor oil in each cylinder could be prudent before The next compression check. Checking compression will be pointless as long as the valves are sticky though.
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mtts60
vicegriphonda said:
Was thinking at 50k we haven't hit the recommended belt change mileage yet
Click to expand...
But you are well overdue on the time-based part of that equation. The rubber and the components therein have an age limit too. The same is true really for all rubber parts
on a car.
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S
Sitting up as long as that one did may have all kinds of trouble. The fuel becomes diluted with water, engine oil and trans fluid thin out, who knows what pwr steering and brake fluid become. Animals may have invaded, anything rubber can dry out and crack, gaskets and seals become brittle. For starters.
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WiiMaster
vicegriphonda said:
Was thinking at 50k we haven't hit the recommended belt change mileage yet LOL.
Click to expand...
At 30k I'm not there yet either. Yet as we speak my Accord is sitting at the shop getting the belt replaced.
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V
but no ones has info on valve problem ?.
the timing belt is not the issue;
it is timed property and the cams rotate
the valves not opening is why it stopped running.
It would be pointless to replace a timing belt on a vehicle with
not functioning valves since it would so nothing to get it to run
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Cruizahkimo
vicegriphonda said:
but no ones has info on valve problem ?.
the timing belt is not the issue;
it is timed property and the cams rotate
the valves not opening is why it stopped running.
It would be pointless to replace a timing belt on a vehicle with
not functioning valves since it would so nothing to get it to run
Click to expand...
You know what else would be pointless? Giving someone advice to get a car running that has a 15+ year old timing belt on it. Lifespan of timing belts is 70-100k or 7(?) years, I believe. (Somebody please correct Me if I'm wrong). SEVEN YEARS. It's been on Your car TWICE that. Just because it's "still shiny", that doesn't mean SHIZZ. How many broken timing belts have You seen in Your 20 years working on cars? You ever seen any that WEREN'T shiny? I haven't. Unless they shredded and fell off. Or there was no belt cover..

Any way, Your valve seats are obviously shot . You should remove, clean, and lube Your rocker arms. There's probably dried sludge in there, restrictimg movement. I think You should also remove the head and clean everything, but I have the feeling You're not going to. Good Luck, and CLEAN THOSE F#@&ING PULLEYS! 😱
🐓💨🐓💨
Haha
Aloha🤙
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