[Speedy]

I found a post from Princess that tells how to test the fuel sending unit on 98-99 Accords. However the values for Ohms are blank haha.

Anyone know the values at E, 1/2, and F?

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13217&d=1214948020

I replaced my sending unit last night (easy peasy took 30 minutes) with one from a salvage yard, and while it's better I'm not sure it's exactly right. I'd like to test them to see.

Also I believe there was TSB on this? Would it still apply to my 99' Accord?

 

[nehonda]

As per the 6th gen Accord service manual:
E 105 - 107 ohms
1/2 29.5 - 35.5
F 3 - 5

 

[Speedy]

As per the 6th gen Accord service manual:
E 105 - 107 ohms
1/2 29.5 - 35.5
F 3 - 5

Well, that's really interesting. I just ohm'd out the sending unit I pulled out of my car and here's what I got:

E 106.2
1/2 36.4
F 4.2

However, I put a salvage yard sending unit in last night and the gauge is much happier but I'm not sure it's 100% right.

What else could it be?

My engine temp needle seems to act up at times. Could it be the cluster?

 

[Speedy]

OK just an update. My issue was not the sending unit it is a short in the instrument cluster. I've tried to correct the issue by taking the cluster apart and cleaning the contacts....no luck.

I'll next try re-soldering a few of the connections on the back of the cluster. One of them is obviously loose some where. If I tap the dash things work. Tap the dash again the fuel gauge and temp gauge bounce around to different readings.

Fred gave me some tips on testing the fuel gauge which helped me find the problem. Jumper pins 1 and 2 at the fuel pump connector in the trunk. The fuel gauge should quickly rise to F when the key is turned to ign on. Don't let the needle go past F or you'll damage the gauge. Mine stopped at 3/4 full. I tapped the dash and it continued to F. That told me there was a short.

Hopefully I can fix it with soldering the joints since Honda stores the mileage in the cluster. If I replace it with one from a salvage yard the mileage will be incorrect unless I can find a place to reprogram it.

 

[Speedy]

This should be the final update. I disassembled the instrument cluster last night to replace the odometer back light and figured while I was in there I'd double check all the solder joints around the fuel and temp gauges.

After looking over all the joints I noticed that there are three pins for the fuel gauge as well as the temp gauge that the gauge itself snaps on to. Looking closely at those pins I noticed they were loose.

Busted out the solder gun, reheated the solder on each of the pins and put a dab of fresh solder for good measure. With the pins now tight as a drum I reassembled the cluster.

On the drive to work this morning everything worked perfectly. I tapped on the dash occasionally to try to get the gauges to act up and they were as solid as they were when the car was new.