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opus360

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Has anyone test driven both versions? If so, let us here it. I am particularly interested in:

- acceleration: we all know the V6 will be faster, but just how fast does it feel in everyday driving, not the 0-60mph test. How much juice does the 4 cylinder CVT powertrain have for passing in the highway and for merging?

- handling: with the added weight of the V6, how is handling affected? Does the car feel noise heavy versus the 4 cylinder version?

- ride: the suspension is slightly different. How's the ride quality?
 
I have driven both. The V6 accelerates much quicker and with less engine noise. It is a smooth unit and the transmission shifts quickly and smoothly. I only drove the V6 for about 15 minutes and no "back to back" with the I4.

The I4 has adequate acceleration, but when you step on it, the engine is a bit noisy at the higher revs. It isn't really bad, just noticeable as compared to the V6.

I tested Canadian Touring models, both with 18" wheels. I drove the same route with both and can't say I noticed a real difference in handling between the two.

If money and fuel economy were not issues, I'd get a V6 Touring. Given that the V6 Touring is about $5,000 more than the I4 Touring, I need to give it more thought. In addition, the I4 gets pretty good fuel economy and given the price of gas these days, that is no small consideration. Given my mileage and driving habits, I can expect to save about $500 - $600/year. Who knows what teh saving swill be in 4 years. :)

Anyway, I plan to take longer test drives in both models on Friday. If I am strongly leaning to one or the other, I'll get the dealer to given me one over the weekend before I make my decision.
 
The four seems to have more soul. The V6 I test drove seemed like it was asking "Are you really, really sure you want to do that?" when I mashed the go pedal.
Nice analogy lol :thmsup: when I floor my V6 it tells me, "it's about time you drive me the way im suppose to be driven!!":thmsup:
 
Has anyone test driven both versions? If so, let us here it. I am particularly interested in:

- acceleration: we all know the V6 will be faster, but just how fast does it feel in everyday driving, not the 0-60mph test. How much juice does the 4 cylinder CVT powertrain have for passing in the highway and for merging?

- handling: with the added weight of the V6, how is handling affected? Does the car feel noise heavy versus the 4 cylinder version?

- ride: the suspension is slightly different. How's the ride quality?
I haven't test driven the four but if you do a lot of highway driving then I would go with the six which is pretty close to best in class fuel economy. The pedal does require a little more push to make it feel like the engine it is but that is perhaps a result of the fuel efficiency tuning or VCM. However, when you do mash on it, it is as quick as any midsized family sedan.
 
I haven't test driven the four but if you do a lot of highway driving then I would go with the six which is pretty close to best in class fuel economy. The pedal does require a little more push to make it feel like the engine it is but that is perhaps a result of the fuel efficiency tuning or VCM. However, when you do mash on it, it is as quick as any midsized family sedan in it's class.
 
The 4 is zippy and responsive. The 6 is much faster and smoother but not suprisingly feels heavier.

I am heading to Niagra Falls, CAN for my first real road trip in 10 days and will post I4 freeway experience with a fully loaded car.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
The 4 is zippy and responsive. The 6 is much faster and smoother but not suprisingly feels heavier.

I am heading to Niagra Falls, CAN for my first real road trip in 10 days and will post I4 freeway experience with a fully loaded car.
That's what I am afraid of the V6...feeling heavy and potentially noise heavy.

Your trip to Niagara should provide for a good "test" experience on what the car is like. I look forward to reading it. :thmsup:
 
The lighter the car, the more nimble it will feel. Having said that, the V6 adds about 184 lbs over the I4, but part of that is the auto transmission I'm sure. That is about a 5% weight increase.

I didn't notice much of a difference in ride/handling, but will pay more attention to it tomorrow when I test drive. Still if you want straight line performance, the V6 does the 0 -60 run in around 6 seconds, which is BMW territory from yesterday. Pretty impressive.
 
Has anyone test driven both versions? If so, let us here it. I am particularly interested in:

- acceleration: we all know the V6 will be faster, but just how fast does it feel in everyday driving, not the 0-60mph test. How much juice does the 4 cylinder CVT powertrain have for passing in the highway and for merging?

- handling: with the added weight of the V6, how is handling affected? Does the car feel noise heavy versus the 4 cylinder version?

- ride: the suspension is slightly different. How's the ride quality?
This is really split. When I was looking at these cars I searched this question and some say deff get the V6 and some say the I4 is fast enough. The next question is options. The V6 model offers some things that the I4 doesn't. If this helps after searching between the V6 and I4 I picked the V6. To me the accord is too large of a car to have a I4.
 
I never liked the buzzy loud rough 4 cylinder models. Honda's 4 cyls just don't impress me anymore (realize that the last one I drove was a 8 gen)I've also had some decently quick cars over the years, and going back to a 7-8sec car would just frustrate me to no end. My existing car drives me nuts its so slow. At the end of the day, if I'm only going to get another 30-40kms out of tank around town and almost identical on the highway, its just not worth it it. Gimme acceleration and the smoothness of a V6, not to mention it just sounds better.

Of course the cost difference isn't anything to joke about either. At 5 grand difference, that's a bit much. But get a decent rebate or deal and now it's a no brainer for me. V6 all the way.
 
This is really split. When I was looking at these cars I searched this question and some say deff get the V6 and some say the I4 is fast enough. The next question is options. The V6 model offers some things that the I4 doesn't. If this helps after searching between the V6 and I4 I picked the V6. To me the accord is too large of a car to have a I4.
Ah its not that large, just a bit bigger than the Camry, Altima, and the 7th generation Accord. Thankfully not as Avalon like as the outgoing generation, but to each his own.
 
Ah its not that large, just a bit bigger than the Camry, Altima, and the 7th generation Accord. Thankfully not as Avalon like as the outgoing generation, but to each his own.
Ok yes it's not a boat but I feel that it's mid sized. Small cars with an I4 is ok, a mid sized car should have a I4 turbo/supercharged, a V6 or an I6, while a large car should have a turbo/supercharged V6, turbo/supercharged V6 or a V8.
 
Ok yes it's not a boat but I feel that it's mid sized. Small cars with an I4 is ok, a mid sized car should have a I4 turbo/supercharged, a V6 or an I6, while a large car should have a turbo/supercharged V6, turbo/supercharged V6 or a V8.
When normally aspirated I4s were in topping out at 145-150hp and equivalent torque values I would agree, however today's larger direct injection engines in the 180-200hp range I wouldn't make that blanket statement anymore. Look at the new I4 Accords and Altimas, but in the sevens for 0-60, due to more powerful engine technology, lighter weight and more efficient transmissions.
 
When normally aspirated I4s were in topping out at 145-150hp and equivalent torque values I would agree, however today's larger direct injection engines in the 180-200hp range I wouldn't make that blanket statement anymore. Look at the new I4 Accords and Altimas, but in the sevens for 0-60, due to more powerful engine technology, lighter weight and more efficient transmissions.
I see what you saying but they don't get that much better mpgs which is the main reason why someone would get an i4 over a v6. I like to lightly push the gas to pass someone on the hwy vs making an i4 scream. Engines are much more reliable now but I don't beat on my cars so smacking the cr a p outta an i4 vs just driving a v6 doesn't make sense to me when merging or passing on the hwy
 
I see what you saying but they don't get that much better mpgs which is the main reason why someone would get an i4 over a v6. I like to lightly push the gas to pass someone on the hwy vs making an i4 scream. Engines are much more reliable now but I don't beat on my cars so smacking the cr a p outta an i4 vs just driving a v6 doesn't make sense to me when merging or passing on the hwy
All cars true city MPG are awful (unless Diesel or Hybrid) even with stop/start technology you only gain 5% in the city.

The only real test is freeway cruising and most V6 will get low 30s and most I4s will do high 30s to even low 40s (I have seen 40.7 over 70 miles in my '13 Ex-L) despite usually lower EPA figures.

I have my first road trip in 5 days. I am going to Canada later this week and will give a full report.

I think it is safe to say that the average I4 wil do 20-25% better on freeway MPG than a V6. I call that significant (would love my 401K to do that). Because any city driving will kill MPG equally, the average MPG gain with a 4 is indeed less impressive.

I chose the 4 not to save MPG but rather to save $$. I have had enough cars from Diesel, Rotary, 4, 6, 8 that I was looking for "more than adequate" this time around. I could not be more pleased with the choice.

Revving a 4 cyl in a vain attempt to get the effortless power of a V6 when merging really won't hurt the engine. In theory, the fewer revs over a lifetime should give better longevity but most of us won't ever realize that until 350-500K miles. There are far too many 4cyls out there from all makes that have been revved to merge with well over 150K that run like new. My 2000 boxster has been screaming just short of a race car and runs like new at 120K miles.

On paper I would agree with you that making an I4 scream vs thrusting along with a V6 is not so good for the I4 but in the real world for the vast majority of lessors and buyers, it matters not. I have not seen any evidence to suggest buying a used V6 with 150K is safer than an I4 with 150K because it wasn't revved as much.
 
All cars true city MPG are awful (unless Diesel or Hybrid) even with stop/start technology you only gain 5% in the city.

The only real test is freeway cruising and most V6 will get low 30s and most I4s will do high 30s to even low 40s (I have seen 40.7 over 70 miles in my '13 Ex-L) despite usually lower EPA figures.
I'm not sure all city mileage is awful, but is all relative, (to other cars) don't you think? The I4 is rated at 26 and the V6 at 23 (I believe). I notice that for a while most manufacturers (started by Ford) started quoting their vehicles highway mileage only as a bid to lure customers with hight MPG numbers. I don't think many were fooled and it is rather insulting to one's intelligence.

Depending on here you live, you may do allot of highway mileage on your commute or you may do very little. I live in a city with few freeways and most of my driving is in traffic averaging 30 - 50 mp/h, with about 12 stop lights. In our 2011 Odyssey, I average about 12.5 L/100km. I use about 9 L/100 Km on the highway.

In considering which model Accord to pick, my primary concern is with the city MPG rating as that is where I do 85% of my driving. The US government website says that based on my fuel cost/gallon, mpg/year and city/highway split, I can expect to pay about $400.00/year more with the V6. That is about $33.00/month. I don't consider that to be an impediment. Other's may drive more mileage a year than me and the savings might be $500 - $700/year. In addition, using the engine's performance is bound to affect fuel economy.

I'll be driving the I4 this week for an hour or so and then back to the V6 for a short drive before making any decisions. The V6 has great performance (0 - 60) but you have to hang onto the steering wheel which kind of spoils it a bit. Still, it was nice.

As to the cost difference between the I4 Touring and V6 Touring; in Canada it is about $5,000.00. Still the V6 Touring is allot of car for the money and I justify it by saying it is $20,000 less than a BMW 3 series. :)
 
I'm not sure all city mileage is awful, but is all relative, (to other cars) don't you think? The I4 is rated at 26 and the V6 at 23 (I believe). I notice that for a while most manufacturers (started by Ford) started quoting their vehicles highway mileage only as a bid to lure customers with hight MPG numbers. I don't think many were fooled and it is rather insulting to one's intelligence.

Depending on here you live, you may do allot of highway mileage on your commute or you may do very little. I live in a city with few freeways and most of my driving is in traffic averaging 30 - 50 mp/h, with about 12 stop lights. In our 2011 Odyssey, I average about 12.5 L/100km. I use about 9 L/100 Km on the highway.

In considering which model Accord to pick, my primary concern is with the city MPG rating as that is where I do 85% of my driving. The US government website says that based on my fuel cost/gallon, mpg/year and city/highway split, I can expect to pay about $400.00/year more with the V6. That is about $33.00/month. I don't consider that to be an impediment. Other's may drive more mileage a year than me and the savings might be $500 - $700/year. In addition, using the engine's performance is bound to affect fuel economy.

I'll be driving the I4 this week for an hour or so and then back to the V6 for a short drive before making any decisions. The V6 has great performance (0 - 60) but you have to hang onto the steering wheel which kind of spoils it a bit. Still, it was nice.

As to the cost difference between the I4 Touring and V6 Touring; in Canada it is about $5,000.00. Still the V6 Touring is allot of car for the money and I justify it by saying it is $20,000 less than a BMW 3 series. :)
Here is a good test of city MPG for any car. When you take your test drive click in the avg fuel economy and see what it reads as an average. You will be astonished to see that usually it is well below city MPG in most cases.

It includes the MPGs of all testers before you so hard acceleration, city, freeway, idling in the lot, etc. In other words, routine everyday driving. The I4 that I test drove (and bought) had 13 miles on it and had 19 MPG showing-what happened to the 26 city figure? The Altima had 20 MPG at 138 miles on the odo. My Accord now has 575 miles and avg MPG of 28.7 on the computer and a measured at the tank MPG of 29.4. I am hitting 40 mpg on the freeway not as a temporary reading but on two 70 mile trips. This Friday, I am heading to Niagra falls and will do 750 miles fully loaded so expect a full report.

When test checking MPG, if the 6 has been driven several hundred miles on the freeway and the 4 only 20 miles in the city with 30 min idling on the lot, the 6 will have far better MPG so you have to compare cars with relative miles assuming they routinely go on a similar test drive loop.

Since MPG is a big factor for you, check your own MPG on the test loop for each car and drive them the way you normally would for at least 15-20 miles. Do a 65mph freeway stint to get a clue on best freeway MPG. I predict 33 MPG freeway for the 6 and 40 MPG for the 4. If the difference is small (say only 3 MPG) and money is no object, go for the 6 but I doubt it will do 29-30 combined like my 4 does in the real world.

I can do the conversion via Google very quickly but you're killing me bro with the L/100KM :)
 
Here is a good test of city MPG for any car. When you take your test drive click in the avg fuel economy and see what it reads as an average. You will be astonished to see that usually it is well below city MPG in most cases.

It includes the MPGs of all testers before you so hard acceleration, city, freeway, idling in the lot, etc. In other words, routine everyday driving. The I4 that I test drove (and bought) had 13 miles on it and had 19 MPG showing-what happened to the 26 city figure? The Altima had 20 MPG at 138 miles on the odo. My Accord now has 575 miles and avg MPG of 28.7 on the computer and a measured at the tank MPG of 29.4. I am hitting 40 mpg on the freeway not as a temporary reading but on two 70 mile trips. This Friday, I am heading to Niagra falls and will do 750 miles fully loaded so expect a full report.

When test checking MPG, if the 6 has been driven several hundred miles on the freeway and the 4 only 20 miles in the city with 30 min idling on the lot, the 6 will have far better MPG so you have to compare cars with relative miles assuming they routinely go on a similar test drive loop.

Since MPG is a big factor for you, check your own MPG on the test loop for each car and drive them the way you normally would for at least 15-20 miles. Do a 65mph freeway stint to get a clue on best freeway MPG. I predict 33 MPG freeway for the 6 and 40 MPG for the 4. If the difference is small (say only 3 MPG) and money is no object, go for the 6 but I doubt it will do 29-30 combined like my 4 does in the real world.

I can do the conversion via Google very quickly but you're killing me bro with the L/100KM :)
Sorry for the long post ....

Here is what I have learned testing cars and observing mpg: The Canadian ratings are unachievable. I've written Transport Canada and after 12 months received a response saying that they can't simply follow the US EPA ratings, but must do their own investigation and update the Canadian ratings as they determine. That was 2 years ago. So I use the EPA site.

All of my test drives are done firstly in the city and then on the highway. I drive a typical route in the city and then drive the speed limit on the highway (100 km/h to 62 mph). I reset the average fuel economy computer at the start of my road test and again before I head out on the highway. Most people are test pilots on road tests wanting to know "what a car can do" on the road. That isn't typical driving, so I don't want it as part of my sample.

In the past couple of years I've tested a Mercedes GL320 Blu Tec, BMW X5 X35d (diesel), Honda Odyssey (5 Speed), BMW 535i X drive. All were driven in the city for about 45 minutes in light traffic with some stop and go. All of the computers showed within 1 - 2 mpg of the EPA rating. I finally bought a 2011 Odyssey - 5 Speed for our family car and we've had it 18 months. It is EPA rated at 13.1 L/100 in the city (18 mpg - US). In the summer, on my commute and around town I use 12.5 - 13.0 L/100 km. In the winter I use up to 14 L/100 km. I attribute this to the VCM system not working until the engine and transmission are warm in the winter.

I didn't reset the V6's fuel consumption computer when I test drove on Friday so I can't say whether the car will hit it's rating. It is also a bit misleading anyway as most cars take several thousand miles before they are worked in and can get their fuel economy rating (if in fact they are able to achieve it at all).

I can't say whether the new Honda's will make their rating in the city or on the highway. Anecdotal evidence from drivers such as you are helpful, but again, if you cruise at 70 -m 75 mph, I doubt the car would, because they aren't tested at those speeds and as we all know the faster you drive the more fuel you use.

The EPA says the 4 cyl will get 27/36 and the 6 cyl will get 21/32. Transport Canada says the V6 will get 50 mpg on the highway (for a Canadian gallon which is 20% larger). Adjusted for a US gallon, that means 43 mpg to a US gallon on the highway. You can see the problem with Transport Canada's numbers.

Anyway, assuming the EPA is correct and the car's fuel economy computer is correct (when I test it) and if the two agree, based on driving 10,000 miles a year and at our gas cost/gallon in Canada for regular and assuming 85% City and 15% highway, the EPA site calculates I'd use $1,700/annum in fuel for the 4 Cylinder and $2,150/annum for the 6 cylinder model. I make that to be $450/year or $37.50/month.

I'll test drive the 4 Cyl this week for an hour to see how it fares in acceleration on the highway and in town, engine noise levels under acceleration and displayed fuel economy (as a general guide). I'm not opposed to the 4 Cyl, especially because in Canada we get a 4 cyl Touring model and I like some toys. I'm a bit nervous about new technology though (CVT) and I have to say we have some transmission or motor mount or torque convertor vibration on our 2011 Odyssey which no one seems to be able to diagnose (dealer either says they can't feel it or it's normal depending on which dealer I take it to). In addition it has started to shake the steering wheel slightly when I am driving straight ahead and then turn the wheel to the left to change lanes. I'm thinking either a tire, tie rod end or CV joint. Either way (except for the tire) I don't expect problems like this at 18,000 miles. So for me, maybe the 6 speed auto is the safer choice. On the other hand the CVT may turn out to be bullet proof.

If the 4 cylinder can get me where I need to go without too much fuss (and noise) accelerating briskly when I need to and it has enough passing power on the highway, then I'd likely opt for the 4 Cylinder model and save $5000. I have my eye on a slightly used Boxster anyway and I'm sure I could get my summer driving thrills in that car. Now I just need to figure out where to park the 1976 Triumph TR6.
 
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