[arempee26]

Mine too. I didn’t notice anything like that. Do you have all the parts needed?


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[UTS]

Got everything. Tray, box, plate and j hooks

 

[WABOOM]

Parts got delivered today and the battery fit in farely well.

The problem I had was the v6 battery tray was touching this part. Is this a known thing?

Car is a 15 EX-L

I forgot about that piece. I removed that stamped steel vertical clip thing. It's not needed. All it does is hold the positive cable, but the cable is already held firmly by the battery terminal. Yes mine collides with that part, I believe that is the ECM housing.

 

[WABOOM]

This is the piece I got rid of. Btw, yes that is a garage organizer tray that I'm using as a battery tray. It was the perfect size. My "V6 battery upgrade" only cost me $109 for the Exide Sprinter battery at Home Depot + $7 thermal insulated bubble wrap as a battery jacket. As you can see, I actually used my existing hold down bar by bending it and putting a section of rubber under it... I will probably end making a better one in the future, but this works for now. I really should have painted it but IDGAF at the time.

 

[UTS]

This is the piece I got rid of. Btw, yes that is a garage organizer tray that I'm using as a battery tray. It was the perfect size. My "V6 battery upgrade" only cost me $109 for the Exide Sprinter battery at Home Depot + $7 thermal insulated bubble wrap as a battery jacket. As you can see, I actually used my existing hold down bar by bending it and putting a section of rubber under it... I will probably end making a better one in the future, but this works for now. I really should have painted it but IDGAF at the time.

For me its a little different.. it's the actual tray that's hitting the ECM I think..

The tray is seated perfectly from what i can see.. I redid the whole thing 3 times...

 

[UTS]

I don't recall my battery box hitting anything, but I never really looked at it that closely.

Its atually the tray, the box fits perfectly. Il post better day light pictures tomorrow

 

[UTS]

So fixed it today.

I took everything out. The tray was hitting the ECM, not sure why this was but it was happening even though everything was well settled.

So I cut the small 2mm lip off and everything is perfect now.. it was a case of OCD than anything..

 

[jpepkowski]

If anyone needs the handle and j hooks for the V6 battery upgrade send me a message I have OEM unopened.

 

[lji]

It is true you can do this without new hardware, but it will look like a factory install if you have the hardware. The plastic covers are there to protect the battery in a collision and to protect the car from leaking acid and a battery explosion.

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True, but looks didn't matter as much when I was doing this. As far as the plastic covers go, they will help in the event of leakage but won't help much if the battery were to literally explode. As an update, the Diehard battery failed just a couple of months before the 3-year free replacement ran out and Sears gave me another one for free. Figure in TX weather conditions, this is about as good as it'll get in terms of battery life. Not bad for $115 originally paid.

 

[Smooth Rider]

The battery in my 2013 EX-L died yesterday so I set out to replace it. I went to Autozone.com and entered my make/model and made my choice. It's been so long, and I so rarely replace batteries myself, that I didn't pay attention to size and bought a size 35 instead of the OEM 51R. Now having done the research, I know this is a common upgrade and I'm inclined to keep this battery rather than exchange it for the 51R, but the 35 won't fit without discarding the battery box and tray entirely. Fortunately the bolts and plate that fastened the old 51R battery seem to fasten the new 35 well enough, if not perfectly.

So am I all set? Any potential adverse impacts of not having a battery box or tray? There's a part of me that says if they served no purpose, they wouldn't have been installed in the first place, so going without makes me a little nervous. And the battery that just died did have a bit of corrosion that the box/tray caught.

 

[sidpost]

The V6 and I4 come from the factory with different batteries. My I-4 battery will be replaced with the V-6 when the time comes. The tray and battery cover are easy and cheap to replace if you want to. The cover is mainly there for protection if your battery explodes or swells which is unlikely. The battery tray in mine supports both battery types but, the strap is a little short. Seems like it cost me ~$12 to get both replacements so, they are sitting on the shelf when the day comes that I run off to the auto store to get a replacement battery.

 

[emeron]

The battery in my 2013 EX-L died yesterday so I set out to replace it. I went to Autozone.com and entered my make/model and made my choice. It's been so long, and I so rarely replace batteries myself, that I didn't pay attention to size and bought a size 35 instead of the OEM 51R. Now having done the research, I know this is a common upgrade and I'm inclined to keep this battery rather than exchange it for the 51R, but the 35 won't fit without discarding the battery box and tray entirely. Fortunately the bolts and plate that fastened the old 51R battery seem to fasten the new 35 well enough, if not perfectly.

So am I all set? Any potential adverse impacts of not having a battery box or tray? There's a part of me that says if they served no purpose, they wouldn't have been installed in the first place, so going without makes me a little nervous. And the battery that just died did have a bit of corrosion that the box/tray caught.

You need a tray if it's a wet battery. And by wet battery I mean a car battery full of sulfuric acid solution that you drive around with it in your engine bay.

 

[sidpost]

You need a tray if it's a wet battery. And by wet battery I mean a car battery full of sulfuric acid solution that you drive around with it in your engine bay.

A pair of 2x4's or a 2x6 has made a good battery tray for a lot of farm vehicles. Like the strap, you are mainly looking to avoid battery movement and need to keep it level so it works correctly.

AGM batteries are a totally different topic. You can mount those upside down if you want to.

 

[JLROhio]

The Exide Battery at Home Depot is a classic Lead Acid flooded battery but it carries a 40month replacement warranty. The one I got was an AGM, part# 24F-710BAGM. While the Lead Acid is cheaper, I am betting that the AGM will outlast it by double. If not I still have a free replacement for the First 4 years. So if I get to 3.5 years and it fails and a free replacement last another 3.5 I am ahead of the game at 7 years. No doubt the Home Depot prices are good.

Just curious how that Exide Battery from Home Depot worked out?
I'm in the battery replacement market now and that Exide 24F is only $116 at Home Depot (much lower than everyone else right now).

 

[GPz1100]

I ran that battery in my g37 for ~4 yrs before it crapped out. Reasonable for the price.

 

[JLROhio]

I forgot about that piece. I removed that stamped steel vertical clip thing. It's not needed. All it does is hold the positive cable, but the cable is already held firmly by the battery terminal. Yes mine collides with that part, I believe that is the ECM housing.

How did that Home Depot "Exide Sprinter battery" hold up??

 

[Rygrego]

I remember people taking out the 51 series batteries from the 7th Gens and replacing them with 35 series. Anyone done this on a 9th Gen?

I got my hands on an Optima Yellow Top for dirt cheap and was just wondering if it would fit. The base where the battery sits seems big enough but the tie down would def have to be replaced.

The standard battery for the V6 Accord is the much larger 24F. I went online and purchased the battery tray, cover and tie down for the V6 and installed the 24F as a perfect fit. The battery pan is designed for the larger battery. Also the 24F is much less expensive than the 51R and alot more available.