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I'm having a hell of a time with the TRS morimoto kit. Most times one side doesn't fire. It's inconsistent which side. On a few occasions neither side lights up. Kit is wired through the relay harness. Harness is wired directly to the battery.

The only consistency in switching parts is the inconsistent behavior. They're sending out another ignitor and ballast. Will give that a shot because calling it quits. I've installed HID kits before and never had these issues.

On several occasions when one side didn't fire, I'd pull the relay lead from the ballast to take a volt reading. 12V would be present. This suggests the relay(s) are working and the problem is with the ignitor or ballast. TRS doesn't think it's the bulbs as they either work or don't work consistently.

Any ideas?
 

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So... The plot thickens. I poked around a bit with the volt meter this afternoon.

Some things of interest, voltage at the relay ballast connector (when unplugged from ballast) is ~.25V less than supply voltage. This makes no sense. Supply voltage taken on either side of the fuse and ground is equal to battery voltage. HD relay description mentions something about a flyback diode. This is to prevent current spikes when the circuit is switched off. The diode is across the coil (low current side). In operation there shouldn't be any voltage drop across the diode. I wonder if this is causing too much of a voltage drop and preventing the bulbs/igniters from firing. Further, the relay is nothing more than a simple electro-mechanical switch. I would expect to see supply voltage on the high side of the relay, especially with no load.

Thoughts?

Can someone with this kit do me a favor.

Take a voltage reading at the battery with the lights on.

Disconnect one of the relay connectors at the ballast (whichever one is easier to access). Take a voltage reading at the connector. Take another reading at the battery. How do these 3 compare?
 

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Nice!
And no I didn't spend anything yet. I'm doing research on different lights and will order soon. I will unfortunately have to drive with my crappy stock halogens until the new LED's come in lol.
Any updates? I'm using you as my guinea pig!

Did you spent $90 for a pair of halogen bulbs? I bought a pair of LED bulbs at $72
They are working great on my accord, much brighter than halogens
View attachment 514640
View attachment 514641
View attachment 514642
Can you include a link to the bulbs? Did you just swap them out and that was it? Light output looks good to me.

Touring headlight question.

Hello, brand new to the Accord and the forum.
I recently purchased a 2017 Accord Coupe EX-L. I'm looking at used Touring headlights on ebay. I do have a half DRL strip out but have no real desire for the DRL anyway.
My biggest concern is if I purchase a clean pair for Touring lights, what do I need to convert to plug and play? I have seen a harness on ebay for around $200.00 to convert from
halogen to the LED. Thank you for any input.
I assume you know the DRL strip is part of an extended warranty and Honda will fix it for you for free?

I have a 2017 hybrid too and I've replaced all my interior lights with these off of amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VTIVW0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I still need to change brake lights and reverse.

I also changed the trunk light to this one, huge difference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K6IW00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far no issues.

I've had my windows tinted, my radar detector installed hard wired and mounted using a blend mount to the rear view. Need to install my horns and finally the interior trunk handle. After that I'm completely done. I've had the car for 2 weeks now.
Turri
Hello. How are the mods holding up? I'm especially interested in the trunk LED strip.









I'm happy with how these turned out.

Rich V.
Where did you get those? They look awesome.
 

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So... The plot thickens. I poked around a bit with the volt meter this afternoon.

Some things of interest, voltage at the relay ballast connector (when unplugged from ballast) is ~.25V less than supply voltage. This makes no sense. Supply voltage taken on either side of the fuse and ground is equal to battery voltage. HD relay description mentions something about a flyback diode. This is to prevent current spikes when the circuit is switched off. The diode is across the coil (low current side). In operation there shouldn't be any voltage drop across the diode. I wonder if this is causing too much of a voltage drop and preventing the bulbs/igniters from firing. Further, the relay is nothing more than a simple electro-mechanical switch. I would expect to see supply voltage on the high side of the relay, especially with no load.

Thoughts?

Can someone with this kit do me a favor.

Take a voltage reading at the battery with the lights on.

Disconnect one of the relay connectors at the ballast (whichever one is easier to access). Take a voltage reading at the connector. Take another reading at the battery. How do these 3 compare?
Look at the stock Honda H11 plugs. On both of mine on my Accord on of the wires kept coming out of the socket and even when pushed back in would come out eventually again. I could be driving and the plug move a certain way and a light would go out. Eventually I just cut them both out and used a new H11 plug and have never had an issue since.


Just ordered these since im OCD and dont like my current halogen lights with the one burnt out DRL.
 

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^^Got a link? Mine is a MY15 accord. I ended up getting a pair of silvania silverstar ultra's. Anyways, it's getting cold outside and I don't want to mess with an install in a cold garage.
 

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Look at the stock Honda H11 plugs. On both of mine on my Accord on of the wires kept coming out of the socket and even when pushed back in would come out eventually again. I could be driving and the plug move a certain way and a light would go out. Eventually I just cut them both out and used a new H11 plug and have never had an issue since.


Just ordered these since im OCD and dont like my current halogen lights with the one burnt out DRL.
i was looking at these as well. ive been burnt before with aftermarket lights claiming oem output but fall short. Used touring lights and adapter harnesses im fine with but the possibility of the led strip failing soon after i install them is my concern. so if these are a great alternative then ill be buying a set as well. i look forward to your installed pics
 

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i was looking at these as well. ive been burnt before with aftermarket lights claiming oem output but fall short. Used touring lights and adapter harnesses im fine with but the possibility of the led strip failing soon after i install them is my concern. so if these are a great alternative then ill be buying a set as well. i look forward to your installed pics
Before the Honda DRL recall I replaced my one light myself using the DEPO brand Halogen projector headlight and have no complaints so far. Like the LED DRL light better on it than Honda's. Now though my other way went out and was gonna look at getting another and ran into this so figured why not at $550.
 

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I'm really curious to see how those DEPO Touring lights work out for you. Is there any chance that, once you get them installed, you can take some beam pattern shots against a white wall or garage door? I'd love to see how they perform and if they produce a clean cutoff line without too much glare, as well as a proper hot spot.

Not to be a downer, but more often-than-not, aftermarket lights are inferior to OEM in terms of quality and have worse output. It'd be nice if these DEPOs were actually better than the OEM Touring headlights, but at less than half the cost, I have my doubts.
 

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I'm really curious to see how those DEPO Touring lights work out for you. Is there any chance that, once you get them installed, you can take some beam pattern shots against a white wall or garage door? I'd love to see how they perform and if they produce a clean cutoff line without too much glare, as well as a proper hot spot.

Not to be a downer, but more often-than-not, aftermarket lights are inferior to OEM in terms of quality and have worse output. It'd be nice if these DEPOs were actually better than the OEM Touring headlights, but at less than half the cost, I have my doubts.
I can see what you mean by that. Honestly though anything is better than halogen projectors with yellow halogen bulbs. I can definitely get you pics once they come in. Suppose to be here on the 30th. My current setup in H11b 35W HIDs in my projectors. Like them and they do great but the Honda DRL going out is driving me crazy plus who doesn't love the look of the touring lights.
 

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I’m curious about the fitment and light output of those Touring lights. I’ll await your review @stevencox93
 

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Hi there,

This is for bulbs only in existing OEM housing and projectors.

I am trying to upgrade my lights in the front to LED and/or HID/LED combo, but it is critical for me to change up the color temperature to match the existing factory LED strip on my 2015 Accord EX-L. Would any of you please kindly advise me which products are going to be a color/temp match for all the 3 different replacements I want to do at your earliest convenience? Is there any particular identifier (ie. temperature number) I need to know about this when I shop around?

I want to stick with LED replacements as much as possible, but open to HID conversion kits for low beams. I just want durable products and ones that match my OEM LED strip DRLs in their bluish hue.

Thanks!
vtecjunkie
 

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I’m curious about the fitment and light output of those Touring lights. I’ll await your review @stevencox93
Installed them yesterday. Fitment is good but hate having to take apart the whole front end just to replace headlights ugh. As far as light quality I will say it is decent. I may have been a little spoiled with the HIDs throwing the light everywhere but I prefer these lights anyday. Plus the DRLs and LED strip turn signals are awesome. I will post a light shot here soon. I live in the mountains so my driveway is not flat to get an accurate photo against a wall.

Here's them installed.
 

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Steven,
Thanks for the pic!! I think they look good....really good. I was able to find LEDs for high, low, & turn signals but still want the touring version. Was the quality ok? Install on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being most difficult for an avg DIYer??

Thanks in advance...btw, attached a pic of my '17 and it looks kinda similar (ha!) even down to the blacked out front facia...?
516469
 

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Steven,
Thanks for the pic!! I think they look good....really good. I was able to find LEDs for high, low, & turn signals but still want the touring version. Was the quality ok? Install on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being most difficult for an avg DIYer??

Thanks in advance...btw, attached a pic of my '17 and it looks kinda similar (ha!) even down to the blacked out front facia...? View attachment 516469
Difficulty is not too bad. Just a PIA to take off the front bumper with all the clips. I like the light output and dont regret getting them. My previous setup was 35W 5000k HID-Lows, LED-Highs, and Stock-turns. Now it's LED everything!

I never got around to taking a proper light pic but here's what I got. I have to say I like them and visibility is good. Definitely worth the money to me.
 

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Hi all,

I’ve had successes with retrofitting generic Mini H1s into an 08 Civic and my 09 Accord before I upgraded to my ‘14 Accord. They were GREAT, for $40 retrofits! Using the same HID kit(s) I’ve used from day one (Innovited).
The 9th gen Accords are still a bit of a mystery to me when it comes to the headlights (in this context, particularly). Some threads say the 4G TL projectors aren’t exactly drop-in, some say that they are... but being the budget guy I am, I’m willing to give a third shot to the generic Mini H1s. They’re essentially unbranded and slightly less-great Morimoto Mini H1s but I’ve been more than satisfied with them.
My question to y’all is, would a generic Mini H1 be drop-in? I know the stock halogen projectors have 3 screws to secure in and pretty much every HID projector has 4 (i.e., every Mini H1 and the 4G TLs) which can be easily worked around, but... thoughts?
 

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(For a 2017 EX-L): LED’s or HID’s for Low Beams? I know this has been asked numerous times but I’m finding a lot of different information. If I want to replace the stock low beams with something, what is the best option for brightness and light throw? I read somewhere that HID’s require modification to the headlight assembly itself, but I’m seeing videos where that isn’t necessary. Also read somewhere that HID’s produce excessive heat which will end up damaging the headlight projector, but I can’t seem to find that post again. Another question I have is with light throw...HID’s seem to be the best in terms of distance, but I’ve seen a lot where LED’s are on the same level.

For those that have done it, can you post links to the HID’s or LED’s you used and photos showing the results?

Edit: Also, any truth to HID's only lasting around 1 year?
 

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Welp my HIDs lowbeams from Xenon Depot finally gave out on my Accord Coupe, been running well for 4 years but I think there's an issue with the ballast.I'll be switching to LEDs since my company has free ones lol
 

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Welp my HIDs lowbeams from Xenon Depot finally gave out on my Accord Coupe, been running well for 4 years but I think there's an issue with the ballast.I'll be switching to LEDs since my company has free ones lol
Send me some free LEDs! LOL
 

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(For a 2017 EX-L): LED’s or HID’s for Low Beams? I know this has been asked numerous times but I’m finding a lot of different information. If I want to replace the stock low beams with something, what is the best option for brightness and light throw? I read somewhere that HID’s require modification to the headlight assembly itself, but I’m seeing videos where that isn’t necessary. Also read somewhere that HID’s produce excessive heat which will end up damaging the headlight projector, but I can’t seem to find that post again. Another question I have is with light throw...HID’s seem to be the best in terms of distance, but I’ve seen a lot where LED’s are on the same level.

For those that have done it, can you post links to the HID’s or LED’s you used and photos showing the results?

Edit: Also, any truth to HID's only lasting around 1 year?
YMMV every single time you change something. HID or LED. I’ve used the same two HID ballasts in my 8th gen for 3+yrs before one went out (Innovited brand, AC 35w). I’ve changed bulbs frequently out of taste but have had bulbs fail once or twice but I’m sure it’s because I don’t include a relay (which is highly recommended) in my setup, I just use the factory wiring.
Heat and degradation have never been a problem for me, either time on either car I’ve ever done a retrofit for. Even stupidly using HIDs without a proper projector retrofit have never caused any integrity issues for me.

I personally prefer HIDs for low beams but of course there’s the option of running LEDs instead.
From what I’ve noticed, brands are what really determine quality (i.e., output and brightness and such). Because I’ve had bad experiences with LEDs in an automotive instance overall, I’m sticking with HIDs for now. I’ve been contemplating going with LED but can’t find too many LED projector retrofit threads out there for our cars. I like to stick with what I know lol

With my 9th gen now, I’m running an Innovited 35w AC 5000k kit in the stock halogen projectors... lowered them though because they were certainly wicked high. Pretty solid output for what it’s worth but I do plan on doing a retrofit soon!

I ended up doing my retrofit over on my 8th gen because I was extremely naive the first time. I bought new headlight assemblies and worked with those with generic MH1 projectors. Tossed my Morimotos out... like a dummy... anyway
The second time was AMAZING and exactly what it should’ve been the first time lol. I don’t have too many beam pictures, but I do have video of the retro I did on my old Civic with another set of the generic MH1s!

Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
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